Mystery and intrigue surrounds the phenomenal red sandstone city of Petra set in the cavernous landscape of Jordan. A civilization lost for over 500 years, it was re-discovered in 1812 by John Lewis Burckhardt and is now an amazing archaeological park.
Known as the legendary Rose City, Petra was once the capital of the Nabateans who established this civilization over 2500 years ago. A nomadic people, much like the Bedouins of today, it is speculated that they arrived from Western Arabia to build a stop along the important trade route between Gaza and Syria which then led on to Egypt. Today, the Petra Archaeological Park encompasses about 100 square kilometers of rugged landscape overhanging Wadi Araba.
Gathering at the archaeological park’s museum before tackling the trail, we were offered the opportunity pass through the Siq by either horseback or horse and buggy for a fee of $20 per person. Most of us decided to accept the challenge of hiking the path with our guide to learn more about our surroundings and to explore the cavernous landscape.
As we prepared to enter al-Siq (translated as “the shaft”), we noticed square blocks and what appeared to be caves in the rocks along the trail. The cube shaped structures are known as Djinn blocks, which the Bedouins believe house the spirits that live throughout the land. Archaeologists believe that they were monuments and tombs that served as memorials for the dead that have stood here before the 2nd century BC.
Approaching a rock cut monument on our left of the trail, our guide explained that the structure is actually two memorials, one on top of the other. Built between 25 – 75 AD, the upper shrine is known as the Obelisk Tomb which appears to have four mountain peaks carved above a natural cave entrance. Below the tomb, a triclinium, or a dining hall, was built to prepare banquets and serve wine to honor either a loved one that has passed or one of the gods.
The path leading down to the Treasury is known as the Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses). It is thought to have been the location where Moses smote the rock and gushing water was provided to the Israelites. This intimate valley, with its twists and turns, was created by natural events. First an earthquake developed the 1.5 kilometer long crack while rushing waters softened the edges to create this phenomenal gorge.
The Nabateans were obsessed with collecting water and creating cisterns for water containment. Developing a sophisticated system, carved out niches along the side of the Siq contained clay pipes which delivered water into the city from the fresh water springs.
By the time the Romans brought their influence to the area, the town of Petra was a metropolitan city. Niches were built into the sides of the red sandstone where statues of various gods and carvings were placed to protect travelers through the Siq.
We have reached the end of the Siq and directly in front of us is the Treasury of Khazneh, immortalized by the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. The breathtaking image glows by the light of the sun and is the most photographed image of Petra. The best time for photos is mid-morning and late afternoon.
The monument measures 43 meters by 30 meters and is not a treasury at all, but a mausoleum, thought to have been the tomb for Aretas IV. Built around the 1st century AD, there are three tombs inside and three below. Several images have been carved into the rock to create the façade to include Dioscuri with their horses, winged Victories, dancing Amazons, eagles, lions and Medusae.
Our guide suggested that the façade may actually represent a calendar where the columns represent the twelve months of the year and the frieze of 31 flowers symbolizes the days of the month. Under the triangle there are seven chalices signifying seven days of the week and the 365 “teeth” denoting each day of the year.
Departing the courtyard of the Treasury, I followed the path out towards the Outer Siq where the landscape opened up and additional tombs led to the theater. Referred to as the Streets of Facades, this is the main funerary of Petra, lined with rock cut burial chambers. Cut into the cliffs and leading into the caves, these carvings represent a variety of architectural influences from the Assyrian, Greek and Roman civilizations.
The main theater marks the end of the Outer Siq, but there were many more tombs and exciting sites that continued down the road. Resembling Roman and Greek architecture, the stadium seated 6,000 people and may have been used as a meeting place for pilgrims who frequented the city on a regular basis. The structure includes an auditorium, an orchestra, seating area, stairways and passageways on each side of the theater.
With only a few minutes to shop before making the uphill trek back through the Siq, I stopped at a couple of stalls to find a piece of jewelry and have a look around. I would have loved to have spent a couple of days here to explore the monastery and additional tombs, but we had a long drive ahead of us and another full day of sites tomorrow.
Not much is known about the Nabateans except what is documented by Greek writers, Diororus Sicuolus and Strabo. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, many people find Petra to be one of their greatest fascinations. It would come as no surprise that this archaeological site was declared one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.
Have you had the opportunity to visit the magical land of Petra? What aspect of the site do you enjoy the most? I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my visit to Petra and wishing you many Happy Travels!
What to See and What to Do:
Petra
Petra, Jordan
- Admission Fee: The fee structure varies. For an accommodated visitor who stays at least one night in Jordan: one day = 50 Jordanian Dinar, two days = 55 Jordanian Dinar; three days = 60 Jordanian Dinar; Fees for an accommodated visitor who visits Petra in the first day after his/her arrival from the border = 50 Jordanian Dinar; For a non-accommodated visitor, the entrance fee is 90 Jordanian Dinar. Children under the age of 12 are free of charge.
- Hours: Open daily from 6 AM to 6 PM during the summer and from 6 AM to 4 PM in the winter.
- Amenities: Brochures are provided in Arabic, English, French, Spanish, German and Italian as well as maps. These items are available at the Visitor’s Center. Licensed Guides can be booked for those visitors who speak the following languages: Arabic, English, French Spanish, German, Russian and Greek. Petra Museum and Nabatean Museum, hiking, archaeological maps. Special event “Petra by Night” (8:30 – 10:30PM) for an additional cost.
- Scenic View: The gorgeous view of the Treasury at the end of the Siq; It will take a bit of hiking, but if make a right once you leave the Siq, you will find a set of stairs after passing a few cave like houses and then reach a set of stairs. Once you reach the top of the stairs, you will see an arrow that tells you to go to the left (photo with a little tent) or to the right you will have a much better view. However, be careful!! Do not stand out too close to the edge. Photos of Petra at Night are absolutely phenomenal!
- Length of Visit: For the highlights, you can expect to spend at least 3 to 4 hours here. If you can spend two days in Petra, you will be able to experience most of the park.
- Tips for Your Visit: Wear comfortable shoes for hiking. Obey the rules of the park (i.e., do not litter, do not stand on the monuments). Visit the website for more information. The best time to take photos is mid-morning and late afternoon. The archaeological site kindly asks visitors not to purchase any antiquities including rocks or coins. A valid passport or ID will be required to purchase your ticket. The ticket does not include the night event “Petra by Night”, which is an additional 17 Jordanian Dinar. The program last 2 hours and it runs every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday of each week. No advance reservations required as unlimited tickets are sold for this event. A valid daylight ticket is required.
Where to Stay:
The Regency Palace Hotel Amman
Queen Alya Street
Sport City Road
Amman, 11110, Jordan
Telephone: +962 6 560 7000
Where to Eat:
Petra Magic Restaurant
Touristic Boulevard, Petra
Wadi Musa 86, Jordan
Telephone: +962 3 215 7500
What to Eat:
- Kubbeh is similar to falafal in that it is served in a ball but made with meat and spices then deep fried.
- Manqusheh is similar to pizza made with flatbread topped with olive oil and spice (usually za’atar which is similar to thyme)
- Ka’ak is a large pretzel like pastry that is usually eaten at breakfast time. Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are readily available at bakeries and roadside stalls.
- Potato swirls are similar to french fries, cut and deep fried.
- Qatayef is a pancake-style dessert stuffed with cheese, nuts or sugar and spices and are popular during the Ramadan holiday
- Kunafeh is a pastry similar to baklava covered in syrup and cheese
What to Read:
- Khirbet Khizeh by S. Y. Yizhar
- The Hilltop, by Assaf Gavron
- Dancing Arabs by Sayed Kashua
- The People of Forever are Not Afraid, by Shani Boianjiu
- Five Seasons, by A.B. Yehoshua
- Twenty-One Stories by S. Y. Agnon
- Suddenly, A Knock on the Door by Etgar Keret
- Apples from the Desert, by Savyon Liebrecht
- From the Four Winds, by Haim Sabato
- To the End of the Land, by David Grossman
- A Tale of Love and Darkness, by Amos Oz
Photo Guide for Israel:
- The Western Wall for a religious experience
- Jaffa’s Old Town for its charm
- The Dead Sea for its interesting topography
- Caesarea Harbor and its Roman architecture and history are worth a visit
- Arbel National Park and Nature Reserve provides a phenomenal view of the Sea of Galilee
- The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Old City Jerusalem is said to be the burial location of Jesus
- The view of the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives