Things to Do in Ohio in the Month of October

Evidence of Pontius Pilate at Caesarea Maritima

Greeted by a gentle breeze, beautiful clear skies and a deep blue Mediterranean, I could not wait to explore one of Israel’s most fascinating archaeological sites, Caesarea Maritima.  Dating back to the Phoenicians, this spectacular harbor town was one of King Herod’s most elaborate reconstruction projects in honor of Emperor Augustus. Located between the bustling cities of Tel Aviv and Haifa, the harbor was once known as Stratton’s Tower.

Prosperity flourished in Caesarea during the time of Roman rule and by 6AD it had become the seat of the Roman Governor. During the first Jewish revolt against Rome dating back to 66 AD, Caesarea proved valuable as a military base during the first great Jewish revolt against Rome.  Remnants of this empire remained as we strolled through a tunnel beneath the theater at the Caesarea National Park.  Gathering for a lecture regarding this former bustling port, I took my seat within the cavea of the theater where I became easily distracted by the seaside views of the harbor.

Built between 22 – 10 BC, Herod’s theater was the first of its kind in Israel. Located along the sea, it was carved into the natural kurkar ridge.  The structure seated approximately 4,000 spectators, offering performances from tragedies, comedies and mime.  Having undergone several renovations during the Roman and Byzantine period, the theater officially closed in the 5th century AD.

Documented by historian Josephus, a dramatic event occurred at Caesarea’s theater which included the grandson of Herod the Great, Herod Agrippa I.  Agrippa’s rise to power had been based on his friendship with Caligula, son of Tiberias, who gave Herod Agrippa rule over the area of Golan. Claudius, who succeeded Caligula as the new emperor, he in turn, gave Agrippa rule over all Judea.   When Caligula insisted that Herod Agrippa discontinue building a wall around Jerusalem, Agrippa disobeyed.  Many believed that Herod Agrippa was “aiming for too much dignity and power”.  When these rumors reached Agrippa, he decided to celebrate Caligula’s birthday with a series of games held at Caesarea.

As the story of King Agrippa I unfolds, it was documented in the Bible’s New Testament book of Acts (Acts 12:18-23):

“Now as soon as it was day, there was no small stir among the soldiers about what had become of Peter.  When Herod had sought for him, and didn’t find him, he examined the guards, and commanded that they should be put to death. He went down from Judea to Caesarea, and stayed there.  Now Herod was very angry with the people of Tyre and Sidon. They came with one accord to him, and, having made Blastus, the king’s personal aide, their friend, they asked for peace, because their country depended on the king’s country for food. On an appointed day, Herod dressed himself in royal clothing, sat on the throne, and gave a speech to them.  The people shouted, ‘The voice of a god, and not of a man!’ Immediately an angel of the Lord struck him, because he didn’t give God the glory, and he was eaten by worms and died.”

In the seventh year of his reign, in 44 AD, he died at the age of 54.

Extensive excavations at the site were carried out between 1959 and 1964.  The theater’s stage is wood as it would have been in the time of Herod.  An elaborate backdrop of imported granite pillars would have stood behind the stage which was great for projecting sound. A set of stairs leads below the stage where performers would await their entrance.  The design of the theater creates an astounding example of exemplary acoustics, where performances of concerts, opera and ballet continue to this day.

Prior to reaching the Promontory Palace of Herod is the archaeological garden where several exhibits explain the use of recycled Roman columns after the harbor was abandoned. The exotic stone of these pillars had been imported from quarries in Egypt, Greece and modern-day Turkey (Asia Minor).    A walkway leads through a gated wall remnant of an Umayyad fortress from the 8th century AD.

The panoramic view extended to the middle harbor as I stood within the ruins of King Herod’s Promontory Palace at Caesarea.  Consisting of two tiers, I looked out onto the hippodrome, warehouses and harbor toward the north and towards the Mediterranean, local fishermen throwing in their lines from a stony outcrop extending from the coast.

Not much remains of Herod’s praetorium but a few columns and a rectangular pool which can be seen at the western edge of the courtyard. Beneath the water are the foundations of two story living quarters and mosaic floors from the triclinium.

The upper level of the northern side of the palace is traditionally thought to be the location where Paul argued his defense before Governor Felix, Porcius Festus and the Jewish King Herod Agrippa II. Paul’s two year imprisonment at Caesarea is documented in the New Testament book of Acts (Acts 23:33 – Acts 25:27).

Before exiting the praetorium, an upright stone exhibit has been set aside in the center of the palace.  The posted placard explains that this is a replica of an original stone found when the Romans renovated the theater. The Latin inscription states “Tiberium [Pon]tius Pilate [praef]ectus Judaeae” It is the first known documentation of Pontius Pilate as Praefect of Judea, during the first century AD, known for presiding over the trial of Jesus of Nazareth (Matt. 27:11- 26).  Archaeologists believe that the stone may have been displayed at a temple built by Pilate in honor of Tiberius Caesar.  The original stone is housed at the Israel Museum located in Jerusalem.

As I exited the palace courtyard toward the middle harbor, to my right is Herod’s large amphitheater measuring 950 feet by 165, inaugurated in 11 BC.  Twelve rows of seats accommodated nearly 10,000 spectators for chariot races and athletic events.  By the second century AD, a hippodrome was added to the complex and during the time of the Crusades, a dungeon was installed at the southern breakwater adjacent to the hippodrome.

Josephus, an early historian documented a Jewish standoff in In 26 AD that took place between the palace and the stadium.  The story outlines how the Jewish community was offended when Roman insignia had been brought into their Holy City of Jerusalem.  The Jewish laws forbade graven images so they traveled to Caesarea to insist that Pilate, the procurator, remove the ensigns.  So, when Pilate refused, the Jews fell prostrate upon the hippodrome and remained in that state for five days and five nights.

When Pilate arrived at the “great stadium” he commanded the Jews to remove themselves, yet they remained loyal to their cause.  At this point, Pilate announced that they would be “cut in pieces” if they did not agree to the display of Caesar’s images.  The Jews surprised Pilate by offering themselves to be killed rather than go against the laws of God and he relented to their demands, removing the ensigns from Jerusalem (Josephus, War II, 9.2)

Forty years later, procurator Florus, stole money from the Temple of Jerusalem, which spawned the first great Jewish revolt.  As a result of the violence, Emperor Titus tortured and executed more than 2500 Jews in Caesarea, most likely in the hippodrome as well. (Josephus, War, VII, 3.1)

Upon entering the Crusader City, there is a dry moat and the original wall dating back to 1250 AD.  On the coast near the inner harbor sits the 13th century Crusader citadel enclosed by walls.   During the time of the crusades, the population of Caesarea had dropped to 12,000 residents but the city once again became an important port town until the Mamelukes invade destroying the town of Caesarea.

While Herod’s renovation of Caesarea Maritima was ambitious, his harbor restoration was even more impressive as well as expensive and precarious. Importing pozzolana from Mt. Vesuvius, this innovative hydraulic concrete made from alumina and silicate was used to build an underwater foundation for Herod’s elaborate port, Sebastos. Today, the current harbor boasts a Crusader citadel and mosque as well as contemporary shops and restaurants. Visible from land is a small sheltered inner area and a massive outer area protected by two breakwaters, while most of the other structures rest beneath the Mediterranean Sea.

Unfortunately the harbor was doomed from the start lasting no more than a century before sinking into the Mediterranean. Aerial photographs and underwater excavations have revealed that the outer harbor extended about 65 feet from the shore.  In addition to shipwrecks is a large complex to include a temple with statues of Hera and Zeus, thought to have been built to honor Rome and Caesar Augustus.  Evidence of a lighthouse built to resemble Pharos, Alexandria’s famous wonder of the world, was uncovered as well as warehouses for storage.  Visitors to the Underwater Archaeological Park can explore multiple diving complexes that allow divers to learn about the ground-breaking technology utilized in the construction of the harbor and explore remnants of various shipwrecks along the coast.

By the time Herod rebuilt Caesarea, the aqueduct had long existed and as the city grew, the demand for water increased. An estimated population of 30,000 lived in Caesarea during the Roman period and depended on local wells.  With the addition of baths, fountains and latrines, aqueducts were required to sustain the Roman way of life.

Remains of these outstanding waterways exist to the north along the shore and the best way to reach them is by accessing the dirt road one hundred yards from the Crusader City.  While some believe that Herod constructed aqueducts during his renovation, Hadrian’s contribution includes a pipeline that extends 11 miles from Mount Carmel.

Caesarea was truly one of the Holy Land’s most significant cities and was a major port of entry from the Mediterranean. Excavations in the 1940s have provided insight to this fabulous port city which was also a Roman military base.  While many archaeological finds have been discovered, an amphitheater on the northern side of the park has yet to be unearthed.  Much remains to be seen in Caesarea Maritima, one of the most popular archaeological parks in Israel.

Would you add Caesarea Maritima to your Israel itinerary?  If you have already visited, what was your favorite part of the park?  I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my visit to the beautiful port of Caesarea and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

Caesarea National Park
Caesarea Maritima, Israel
Telephone:  Theater +04-636 1358; Old City +04-636 1010;
Nature Reserves and National Parks (Main office: +02/500-5444)

  • Admission Fee:  Adult: 39 Israeli Shekel; Child: 24 Israeli Shekel;  Student: 33 Israeli Shekel;  Veteran:  20  Israeli Shekel  Group rates are available.
  • Hours:    April 1 through September 30, from 8.00 – 17.00. (Entrance until 16.00)*
  • October 1 through March 31, from 8.00 – 16.00. (Entrance until 15.00)*
  • *On Fridays and the eves of Jewish holidays, the sites close one hour earlier. For example, on a Friday in March one must enter by 14.00 and leave by 15.00.  The Old City (Crusader city) stays open later because of the restaurants. Check in advance by phone.
  • Amenities:  Historical and religious sites, restrooms, local guides, posted placards, restaurants
  • Scenic View:  The view of the Mediterranean from the Theater
  • Length of Visit:  2 – 3 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Arrive early in the day or later in the afternoon.  Be prepared for large tour groups. Bring bottled water and wear plenty of sunscreen as shade is limited.  The site is large, so wear comfortable shoes and attire.   Enter at the ticket gate nearest the theater (this southern entrance to the park is the road from the Caesarea Interchange) and ask when the next movie in English is showing.  Then proceed straight ahead into the site (restrooms are on the right) to the large white building, housing a commendable media presentation on the history of Caesarea.  This serves as an excellent introduction to the site.   Then backtrack to Herod’s theater (directly across from the restrooms).

Ancient Caesarea Diving Club
Telephone:  +972 4 626  5898

There are several dive options to select for a unique dive experience at Caesarea Maritima.  The club also provides dive instruction as well as a dive shop for gear.

Where to Stay:

Caesarea Garden Suite
Neot Golf
Caesarea, Israel
Telephone:  +972 54 478 4768

Where to Eat:

Helena at Caesarea Harbor
Caesarea Maritima, Israel
Telephone:  +972 4 610 1018

Sample the Norwegian salmon smoked in the cherry tree on a grilled Kyle and a raspberry cream paired with a glass of Yarden Gewurtztraminer from Golan Heights.  Save room for “A delight for chocolate and luna” paired with a glass of Muscat wine from Golan Heights Winery.

What to Eat: 

  • Kubbeh is similar to falafal in that it is served in a ball but made with meat and spices then deep fried.
  • Manqusheh is similar to pizza made with flatbread topped with olive oil and spice (usually za’atar which is similar to thyme)
  • Ka’ak is a large pretzel like pastry that is usually eaten at breakfast time.  Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are readily available at bakeries and roadside stalls.
  • Potato swirls are similar to french fries, cut and deep fried.
  • Qatayef is a pancake-style dessert stuffed with cheese, nuts or sugar and spices and are popular during the Ramadan holiday
  • Kunafeh is a pastry similar to baklava covered in syrup and cheese

What to Read: 

  • Khirbet Khizeh by S. Y. Yizhar
  • The Hilltop, by Assaf Gavron
  • Dancing Arabs by Sayed Kashua
  • The People of Forever are Not Afraid, by Shani Boianjiu
  • Five Seasons, by A.B. Yehoshua
  • Twenty-One Stories by S. Y. Agnon
  • Suddenly, A Knock on the Door by Etgar Keret
  • Apples from the Desert, by Savyon Liebrecht
  • From the Four Winds, by Haim Sabato
  • To the End of the Land, by David Grossman
  • A Tale of Love and Darkness, by Amos Oz

Photo Guide for Israel: 

  • The Western Wall for a religious experience
  • Jaffa’s Old Town for its charm
  • The Dead Sea for its interesting topography
  • Caesarea Harbor and its Roman architecture and history are worth a visit
  • Arbel National Park and Nature Reserve provides a phenomenal view of the Sea of Galilee
  • The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Old City Jerusalem is said to be the burial location of Jesus
  • The view of the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives

Disclosure:   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

Entering the Theater

Archaeological Park at Caesarea Maritima

Caesarea Maritima

Herod’s Palace

The Nymphaeum at Caesarea Maritima

The Crusader City at Caesarea Maritima

Byzantine Bathhouse

As the Cock Crows in Jerusalem

A steep hill led down towards the entrance of Saint Peter in Gallicantu when we heard the mysterious muffled crow of a rooster. Although we eventually found the source of the sound, it seemed an appropriate welcome as we entered the nearby courtyard.

Saint Peter in Gallicantu, translated as St. Peter at the Cock’s Crow, is the supposed location where the apostle of Jesus, Peter, denied knowing Jesus as He was brought before the Sanhedrin.  Today, a beautifully restored French Catholic church stands in the place of this event documented in the biblical account of Mark 14: 53 – 65.  Also considered the courtyard of the High Priest Caiaphas, a statue commemorates the famous denial which includes Peter and the woman who questioned him, a Roman soldier and the rooster.   An inscription on the statue states “But he denied him saying, “Woman, I know him not” as recorded in Luke 22:57.

The modern church, with four separate levels, was built into the hillside in 1931 to replace the early chapels previously constructed on the site.  A golden rooster was mounted on top of a black cross to memorialize the event.

Entering through the gorgeous wrought iron doors, we noticed beautiful mosaics dating back to the Byzantine era, which may have been a part of the floor of an early church.  Through the doors of the upper church’s sanctuary, our eyes were immediately drawn to the ceiling with a spectacular multi-colored window shaped like a cross.  Several mosaics hang from the wall to include a scene from the Last Supper and Jesus at Caiaphas’ palace being questioned.

A level below the main sanctuary is another chapel that is surrounded by stones from an ancient grotto.  One of the most interesting aspects of this room is a glass covered hole in the stone.  A sign explains the fifth-century crosses engraved in the stone and one can see a lower level that may have existed during the time of the Second Temple.

An ancient staircase located on the north side of the church leads down towards the Kidron Valley and may have been used during the First Temple Period. Some people suggest it was the route that Jesus followed down to the Garden of Gethsemane the night of His arrest.

Our guide led us to another set of stairs towards the basement where the guardroom and crypt were located. Recent excavations suggest that they were Roman era homes with cellars, baths, mill, storage units, cisterns and barns.  Metal hooks were once thought to have been prisoner chains which may have helped to detain Jesus by fastening His hands and feet as He was flogged.  The bowls carved into the ground were said to have held salt and vinegar to intensify the pain or used to clean out the wounds.  If this was in fact a home, the chains could have been used  to tether their animals while the “bowls” would have been used as feeding troughs.

Looking down through the glass covered shaft, the bottom level may have held Christ the night before He was crucified, known as Christ’s Prison.  Some references suggest that prisoners would have been placed in the cell through a shaft lowered down by a rope harness.  In fact, there is a mosaic located on the south wall of the church which shows Jesus in a similar type of harness.

Archaeologists are unable to agree whether or not Jesus’ trial took place in the courtyard and if Jesus was incarcerated in the lower network of caves.  Many suggest that the High Priest was most likely in the Armenian district of Old Jerusalem where the Herodian upper class homes would have been located or in the current Jewish Quarter among the high priestly family estates.  Yet, regardless of the controversy, this site is the perfect reminder of the events that took place in Jesus’ life prior to his execution and worth visiting during one’s pilgrimage to Israel.

And as we climbed the steep road away from Saint Peter in Gallicantu, we once again heard the cock crow in the distance.

What to See and What to Do:

Saint Peter in Gallicantu
Jerusalem, Israel
Telephone:  972 2 673739
*Administered by the Augustinians of the Assumption

  • Admission:  No admission fee but donations are welcome
  • Hours:  Open 8 – 5 daily
  • Scenic View:  The Upper Room looks down upon the entrance and courtyard
  • Tips: if you are not visiting Saint Peter in Gallicantu on a tour, contact the Augustinians of the Assumption by calling the phone number provided.

Where to Stay:

The Olive Tree Hotel, Royal Plaza Jerusalem
23 St. George  Street
Jerusalem, Israel
Telephone:  972 2 5410410

Where to Eat:

The Olive Tree Hotel, Royal Plaza Jerusalem
23 St. George  Street
Jerusalem, Israel
Telephone:  972 2 5410410

The Olive Tree Hotel has an amazing buffet provided for dinner with a well-rounded offering of Israeli dishes and world-wide cuisine.

What to Eat: 

  • Kubbeh is similar to falafal in that it is served in a ball but made with meat and spices then deep fried.
  • Manqusheh is similar to pizza made with flatbread topped with olive oil and spice (usually za’atar which is similar to thyme)
  • Ka’ak is a large pretzel like pastry that is usually eaten at breakfast time.  Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are readily available at bakeries and roadside stalls.
  • Potato swirls are similar to french fries, cut and deep fried.
  • Qatayef is a pancake-style dessert stuffed with cheese, nuts or sugar and spices and are popular during the Ramadan holiday
  • Kunafeh is a pastry similar to baklava covered in syrup and cheese

What to Read: 

  • Khirbet Khizeh by S. Y. Yizhar
  • The Hilltop, by Assaf Gavron
  • Dancing Arabs by Sayed Kashua
  • The People of Forever are Not Afraid, by Shani Boianjiu
  • Five Seasons, by A.B. Yehoshua
  • Twenty-One Stories by S. Y. Agnon
  • Suddenly, A Knock on the Door by Etgar Keret
  • Apples from the Desert, by Savyon Liebrecht
  • From the Four Winds, by Haim Sabato
  • To the End of the Land, by David Grossman
  • A Tale of Love and Darkness, by Amos Oz

Photo Guide for Israel: 

  • The Western Wall for a religious experience
  • Jaffa’s Old Town for its charm
  • The Dead Sea for its interesting topography
  • Caesarea Harbor and its Roman architecture and history are worth a visit
  • Arbel National Park and Nature Reserve provides a phenomenal view of the Sea of Galilee
  • The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Old City Jerusalem is said to be the burial location of Jesus
  • The view of the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives

 

Cana and the Miracle of Turning Water into Wine

Cana is best known as the town where Jesus performed his first miracle, turning water into wine at a wedding feast (John 2:1 – 11).  During my tour of Israel, I visited the historical town of Kafir Cana to explore the proposed location of this miracle.

The actual location is uncertain and there are a total of five towns associated with the first miracle, yet the traditional site is also known as Kefer-Kenna and Kefr Kana which is located about 3 miles north of Nazareth.   In the 17th century, the Catholic church added Kafir Cana to its list of Christian holy places and the pope designated Kafir Cana as the official location of the New Testament Cana.

Our tour group visited the Franciscan church with its beautiful façade, exquisite arcade with its bell towers, angel statues and charming second floor balcony.

As recorded in the Gospel of John,  Jesus and his disciples arrive at the wedding feast taking place near his hometown of Nazareth in Cana. The wedding was most likely that of a relative of Jesus’ mother and she soon explains to him that the wedding party has run out of wine.  This would have been an embarrassment to the family as the wedding celebrations could last up to a week.  And so the rest is history….

On the third day a wedding took place at Cana in Galilee. Jesus’ mother was there, and Jesus and his disciples had also been invited to the wedding. When the wine was gone, Jesus’ mother said to him, “They have no more wine. Dear woman, why do you involve me?” Jesus replied, “My time has not yet come.” His mother said to the servants, “Do whatever he tells you.”

Nearby stood six stone water jars, the kind used by the Jews for ceremonial washing, each holding from 20 to 30 gallons. Jesus said to the servants, “Fill the jars with water”; so they filled them to the brim. Then he told them, “Now draw some out and take it to the master of the banquet.”

They did so, and the master of the banquet tasted the water that had been turned into wine. He did not realize where it had come from, though the servants who had drawn the water knew. Then he called the bridegroom aside and said, “Everyone brings out the choice wine first and then the cheaper wine after the guests have had too much to drink; but you have saved the best till now.”

Can you imagine 20 to 30 gallons of water that was turned to wine?  That would be an estimate of nearly 750 bottles of wine!  One old jar in the museum is said to have been one of the stone jars believed to have been used to turn water into wine.

This miraculous event revealed the power of Jesus, his divine nature and allowed the disciples to put their faith in him believing he was the Messiah.

Today’s theologians believe that Jesus’ attendance at the wedding solidifies Jesus’ support of the sanctity of marriage.

An estimated 200,000 tourists visit Kafir Cana each year and many purchase Cana wine at the various vendor stalls.  Beautiful rest stops and hotel facilities have been built along the promenade where narrow side streets are also filled with restaurants and souvenir shops.

With a few minutes to spare, we visited Nabhan and Sons for a wine tasting, browsed the lovely selection of souvenirs and purchased a few bottles of wine to take home, maybe for our own wedding celebrations.

Have you visited Cana and tried the local wine?  What did you think?  I would love to hear about your experience to Cana as well as Israel if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.

Scriptural References to Cana:

  • The miracle at the wedding feast: John 2:1-11
  • Jesus heals the official’s son: John 4:46-54
  • Nathanael (sometimes identified with Bartholomew) is mentioned:  John 21:2
  • The city of Cana mentioned in the Old Testament:  Joshua 19:28
  • A brook named Cana:   Joshua 16:8 and 17:9

What to See and What to Do:

Franciscan Wedding Chapel
Kfar Cana, Israel
Telephone:  +972 4 6517011

  • Admission Fee:  There is no admission fee but donations are greatly appreciated
  • Hours:  From April – September:  Monday – Saturday from 8AM to noon and 2 PM to 5:30 PM, Sunday from 8AM to noon.  From October to March, Monday – Saturday from 8AM to noon, and 2PM to 5PM, Sunday from 8AM to noon.
  • Scenic View:  The view of the Sea of Galilee and the famous mosaic of the fish and the loaves
  • Length of Visit:  1 hour
  • Travel Tip:   Only 2 bottles of wine can be brought back to the US without having to pay additional tax.

Where to Stay: 

Leonardo Hotel Tiberias
Gdud Barak Road, 9
Tiberias, Hauafon (Northern) Israel
Telephone:  +972 4670 0800

Where to Eat:

Galei Gil
Yigal Allon Promenade
Tiberias, Israel
Telephone:  +972 04 672 0699

The restaurant is known for serving eight varieties of grilled or fried fish from nearby Sea of Galilee as well a the Mediterranean.  We loved that the eatery was built around a tree that grows out from the side of the structure.  The restaurant provides outdoor seating along the Tiberias promenade with a spectacular view of the Sea of Galilee.   Order the St. Peter’s fish (Mousht) or the Lavrack (Sea Bass).  Meals are served with a baked potato or fries.

What to Eat: 

  • Kubbeh is similar to falafal in that it is served in a ball but made with meat and spices then deep fried.
  • Manqusheh is similar to pizza made with flatbread topped with olive oil and spice (usually za’atar which is similar to thyme)
  • Ka’ak is a large pretzel like pastry that is usually eaten at breakfast time.  Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are readily available at bakeries and roadside stalls.
  • Potato swirls are similar to french fries, cut and deep fried.
  • Qatayef is a pancake-style dessert stuffed with cheese, nuts or sugar and spices and are popular during the Ramadan holiday
  • Kunafeh is a pastry similar to baklava covered in syrup and cheese

What to Read: 

  • The Source by James A. Michener
  • My Promised Land by Ari Shavit
  • The Lemon Tree by Sandy Tolan

Photo Guide for Israel: 

  • Jaffa’s Old Town
  • The Western Wall
  • Eilat’s Red Canyon
  • Masada National Park
  • The Dead Sea
  • Caesarea Harbor

 

 

 

 

 

Capernaeum, the Home of Jesus’ Ministry

Although Jesus was born in Bethlehem, Capernaum became his home during the time of his ministry. Located on the northwest shores of the Sea of Galilee, this town was also home to some of Jesus’ disciples, Peter, Andrew, James, John and Matthew.

Stretching out over twelve acres, the ancient village of Capernaum was extensively excavated beginning in 1905.  I could clearly see the private houses, separated into quarters which were built from dark volcanic basalt. Each home was similarly built to include the central courtyard, ovens, stairs leading to the roof, exits onto the street and an inner wall with low windows allowing light to enter from the courtyard.

Archaeologists have found evidence that Capernaum was first established in the 2nd century BC during the Hasmonian period.  Having a strong economic industry in fishing and agriculture of grain, wine and olive oil, this village is thought to have had a population of around 1,500.  The seaside village of Capernaum also made a living collecting taxes (Matthew the Tax Collector) through its customs house (Matthew 9:9) and housed a small military garrison under the oversight of a centurion.

Most items uncovered were made of clay such as pots, lamps, amphoras and plates.  In addition, there were several fishing related objects to include fishnets and weaving bobbins as well as wine and olive presses and mills for preparing grain.

The archaeological site is owned by two churches whereas the eastern side is owned by the Greek Orthodox with structures from the Byzantine and early Arab periods. The western section is under the control of the Franciscans which encompasses the remains of harbors, the synagogue, an octagonal church and a house which is claimed to be the home of apostle Simon Peter.

At the archaeological site of Capernaum is a spaceship-like memorial built over the home that is said to have been that of Saint Peter.  During excavations, it was revealed that two ancient synagogues had been constructed one on top of the other to maintain the home as a memorial.  Located between the White Synagogue and the Sea of Galilee, researchers have uncovered remains of first century homes that would have been built with wooden beams and thatched coverings.  This would coincide with biblical references in the New Testament.

Peter’s family home is mentioned in the book of Mark in the Bible during the healing of the paralytic.  “And when they could not come nigh unto him for the press, they uncovered the roof where he was and when they had broken it up, let down the bed wherein the sick of the palsy lay.”  Mark 2:4

After a brief introduction to the site, we were provided time to explore Capernaum, so I began with a visit to the Catholic Church, dedicated in 1990.  The layout includes an altar and seating area for Christian services, but the main attraction is the glass dome where visitors can look down on the 4th century Byzantine church and what remains of Simon Peter’s house.

The church was referenced in the writings of Egeria who was a pilgrim during the late 4th century AD.  “Moreover, in Capernaum the house of the prince of apostles had been made into a church with its original walls still standing.  It is where the Lord healed the paralytic.”

In front of the church is a beautiful bronze statue of Peter holding a large key which is a memorial for the visit of Pope John Paul II to Capernaum in March of 2000.

Beneath the Catholic Church lies a staging gallery where visitors can view the black basalt ruins of Simon Peter’s house buried under a mosaic floor and ancient remains of the basilica that had been built over it.

The characteristics of this house show that additional care was taken to preserve it over the years which has led archaeologists to believe this is, in fact, the house of Simon Peter.  At the first century level of excavations, there were found normal domestic items of daily life in Capernaum.  The structure above contained a large number of lamps suggesting it was used as a public gathering place or a house church.  This room was also plastered and set apart from the other rooms where Christian pilgrims left inscriptions in Aramaic, Greek, Latin and Syriac, including a reference to Jesus as Messiah and Lord (Greek).

The White Synagogue stands out among the black volcanic structures of Capernaum and is one of the largest and famous of all excavated synagogues in Israel.  Built with imported limestone, it sits on the site of the first century synagogue where Jesus first preached in the first century AD.

With large lavishly carved Corinthian columns, the structure included a basilica, a roofed courtyard and benches that skirted the entrance. Built around the 4th century AD, the plastered walls were decorated with beautiful reliefs that depicted Jewish religious traditions such as the menorah and ram’s horn. Decorating the frieze work was the astrological sign of the Capricorn, an image of a mythical sea horse.  A set of stairs is thought to have led to a second story, which may have been a gallery where the women would congregate during a Jewish Sabbath service.

The basilica itself was similar in design to the one in Bar’am, but a little more elaborate to include a central prayer hall and a side room in addition to the courtyard and porch.  The prayer hall’s south wall contained a storage area where the Torah scrolls were kept.  It was towards this wall that the Jews would recite their prayers as this direction faced south towards Jerusalem.  Two bemas were identified at the entrance where the scriptures were read, while children played games in the courtyard.

Several biblical references mention the town of Capernaum and Jesus performed many of his miracles in Capernaum.

In Scripture:

  • Jesus makes his home in Capernaum: Matthew 4:12-17
  • Jesus’ Miracles:  Matthew 4:18 – 22, Mark 1:34
  • Jesus heals the Centurian’s servant: Matthew 8:5 – 13, Luke 7: 1 – 10
  • Jesus cures Peter’s mother-in-law: Matthew 8: 14 – 17 Mark 1:21-34, Luke 4:31 – 41
  • Capernaum becomes Jesus’ “own town”: Matthew 9:1, Mark 2:1
  • Jesus heals the man with palsy:  Matthew 9:1 – 8, Mark 2: 1 – 12, Luke 5:17 – 26
  • Mentions of Capernaum’s Roman garrison and tax/customs office:  Matthew 9:9
  • Jesus calls His disciples: Matthew 9:9-12, Mark 2:14, Luke 5:27
  • Jesus raised the daughter of Jairus from the dead: Matthew 9: 18 – 26, Mark 5:22 – 43, Luke 8: 40 – 56
  • Jesus healed the woman with the “issue of blood”:  Matthew 9:20 – 22, Mark 5:25 – 34, Luke 8:43 – 48
  • Jesus condemns Capernaum: Matthew 11:20-24, Luke 10:15
  • Jesus healed the man with the withered hand:  Matthew 12:9 – 14, Mark 3: 1 – 6, Luke 6:6 – 11
  • Paying the temple tax: Matthew 17:24-27
  • Jesus teaches in the synagogue: Mark 1:21 – 22, Mark 3:1, Luke 4:31 – 38, John 6:59
  • Jesus cures a man possessed by the devil:  Mark 1:21 – 28
  • Peter and his brother Andrew in Capernaum:  Mark 1:29
  • Jesus cures a paralytic man: Mark 2:1-12
  • Capernaum as entry point for travelers:  Mark 3:35, Mark 5:1
  • Roman centurion builds the temple:  Luke 7:1 – 10
  • Jesus is the “Bread of Life”: John 6:22-59
  • Peter’s wife mentioned in I Corinthians 9:5

Capernaum has been one of the most significant pilgrimage stops for Christians and it was just as important to ancient travelers passing through on the Via Maris which connected Damascus to Egypt.  Merchants would bring in silk and spices and trade them for Sea of Galilee fish and local fruit, such as figs. While a highway milestone marking the Via Maris continues to stand in Capernaum today, modern day pilgrims can sample the Jesus/St. Peter’s fish and abundant fruits and spices even today.

I couldn’t have been more thrilled to have made a stop in Capernaum on my Israel tour and highly recommend it as a day-trip from Tiberias.  Have you had the opportunity to visit this amazing historical, seaside town?  I would love to hear about the attractions you visited and the restaurants where you dined if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.

Many thanks for taking the time to read about my fabulous time in Israel and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Capernaum
Off Road 87
Kefer Nahum, Israel (locals may not recognize Capernaum)
Telephone:  +053 28 40 991 or +052 88 58 421  Contact: Archimandrite Father Irinarchos

  • Admission Fee:  Adult and Children: 5 Israeli Shekel
  • Hours:    Summer Months from 10AM to 5:30PM; Winter Months from 10AM to 4PM; For groups contact Archimandrite Father Irinarchos at the number provided above.
  • Amenities:  Small café, historical and religious sites, restrooms, posted placards
  • Scenic View:  The spectacular view of Simon Peter’s house and a gorgeous view of the Sea of Galilee
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Travel Tip:  Wear proper clothing as you may be turned away wearing shorts and tops with shoulders exposed.  To reach Capernaum without a car, take a bus from Tiberias, and depart the bus at the Karie Deshe junction, and then walk the last 2 miles along the Sea of Galilee. Be advised that the locals, including the bus driver, won’t understand you if you ask for “Capernaum.” You need to say, “Kfer Nahum,” the Hebrew name for Capernaum that literally means the “Village of Nahum.”

Where to Stay:

Leonardo Club Hotel
Ha-Banim St 1
Tverya, 1420163 Israel
Telephone: +972 4 671 4444

Where to Eat:

Decks Restaurant
Gdud Barak St. 13
Tverya, Israel
Telephone:  +972 4 671 0800

I ordered the St. Peter’s fish, which is a fried Tilapia filet that comes from the Sea of Galilee.  AMAZING!

What to Eat: 

  • Kubbeh is similar to falafal in that it is served in a ball but made with meat and spices then deep fried.
  • Manqusheh is similar to pizza made with flatbread topped with olive oil and spice (usually za’atar which is similar to thyme)
  • Ka’ak is a large pretzel like pastry that is usually eaten at breakfast time.  Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are readily available at bakeries and roadside stalls.
  • Potato swirls are similar to french fries, cut and deep fried.
  • Qatayef is a pancake-style dessert stuffed with cheese, nuts or sugar and spices and are popular during the Ramadan holiday
  • Kunafeh is a pastry similar to baklava covered in syrup and cheese

What to Read: 

  • Khirbet Khizeh by S. Y. Yizhar
  • The Hilltop, by Assaf Gavron
  • Dancing Arabs by Sayed Kashua
  • The People of Forever are Not Afraid, by Shani Boianjiu
  • Five Seasons, by A.B. Yehoshua
  • Twenty-One Stories by S. Y. Agnon
  • Suddenly, A Knock on the Door by Etgar Keret
  • Apples from the Desert, by Savyon Liebrecht
  • From the Four Winds, by Haim Sabato
  • To the End of the Land, by David Grossman
  • A Tale of Love and Darkness, by Amos Oz

Photo Guide for Israel: 

  • The Western Wall for a religious experience
  • Jaffa’s Old Town for its charm
  • The Dead Sea for its interesting topography
  • Caesarea Harbor and its Roman architecture and history are worth a visit
  • Arbel National Park and Nature Reserve provides a phenomenal view of the Sea of Galilee
  • The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Old City Jerusalem is said to be the burial location of Jesus
  • The view of the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives

Disclosure:   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

Blessed are Those on the Mount of Beatitudes

Located in the Galilean town of Tabgha, the Mount of Beatitudes is thought to have been the location where Jesus preached his famous “Sermon on the Mount” (Matthew 5 – 7 and Luke 6).   The sumptuous gardens overlooking gorgeous views of the Sea of Galilee provide the perfect setting for meditation and prayer.

One of the most notable scriptures of Jesus’ sermon is The Beatitudes (Matthew 5:3 – 11):

“Blessed are the poor in spirit: for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are they that mourn: for they shall be comforted. Blessed are the meek: for they shall inherit the earth. Blessed are they which do hunger and thirst after righteousness: for they shall be filled. Blessed are the merciful: for they shall obtain mercy. Blessed are the pure in heart: for they shall see God. Blessed are the peacemakers: for they shall be called the children of God. Blessed are they which are persecuted for righteousness’ sake: for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are ye, when men shall revile you, and persecute you, and shall say all manner of evil against you falsely, for my sake.”

Throughout the oasis are beautiful placards that remind visitors of Jesus’ teachings and recall the biblical verses which are the basis of Christian theology.

Jesus gave hope to the hopeless, loved the unclean and outcasts while healing the sick and demon-possessed.  He taught the crowds how to put others first and to love God with all of their hearts.  His teachings were innovative and full of grace, unlike the Jewish laws, and drew thousands of spectators and followers.

While there is no evidence (archaeological nor scriptural) to the actual location of the Sermon on the Mount, the current site, previously known as Mount Eremos (Greek for isolated) has been recognized for more than 1600 years.  The Byzantines built a church at the base of the hill in the 4th century AD, while a Catholic chapel rests at the top, overlooking Gennesarat to commemorate the event.

According to archaeologist Bargil Pixner, “this terrace above this still existing cave, called Mughara Ayub, must be considered the traditional place of the Sermon on the Mount. The hillcrest of the Eremos indeed offers a magnificent view over the entire lake and the surrounding villages. The cragginess of this hill meant it was left uncultivated and enabled Jesus to gather large crowds around him without causing damage to the farmers.”

The charming chapel, designed by architect Antonio Barluzzi, was built in 1939 with a donation provided by Italian ruler Benito Mussolini.   The floor plan is octagonal, representing each of the eight Beatitudes, with gorgeous colonnaded walkways and a gold mosaic dome. Eight stained glass windows at the base of the dome display the eight Beatitudes in Latin.

Designated for an order of Franciscan nuns, the church was also constructed on the supposed site where Jesus had met his disciples following his resurrection (Matthew 28: 16 – 20).

The altar is centrally placed in the chapel beneath an arch of alabaster and onyx.  A beautiful gold cross is elevated on a stand of navy blue.  Two dimensional carvings depict various scenes throughout Jesus’ life including his crucifixion.   Beneath the shrine are various mosaics representing the seven virtues of charity, faith, fortitude, justice, prudence and temperance.

As we entered the church we were directed to follow the rope that ran along the perimeter of the chapel.  The interior was modest and took only a few moments to explore.  With additional time to wander the gardens, we enjoyed the scenic beauty of the Sea of Galilee where Jesus would have preached along its coast.  The chapel overlooks the fertile farmland of Gennesaret.  The New Testament book of Mark refers to this area as the place where Jesus performed many miracles and came into contact with the Pharisees.  (Mark 6 – 7).

In March of 2000, this vast hillside was the location of a papal mass that was prepared for nearly 100,000 attendees.

Outside of the chapel entrance is a stairway which leads to the most recent  addition to the property, the Domus Galilaeae.  Translated as the House of Galilee, the center was added in 2000 to provide additional meeting space for studies and retreats as well as a library dedicated to literature based on the Sermon on the Mount.

The Church of the Beatitudes was built upon the land that has been a designated Christian site for many years.  Fourth century pilgrim Egeria mentioned in her writings, a cave in the hillside near Tabgha where “the Lord ascended when he taught the Beatitudes.”

While modern day pilgrims continue to visit the Mount of Beatitudes, many arrive by bus off of the Tiberias-Rosh Pina highway.  Others, hiking the Jesus Trail, reach the Mount from other pilgrimage sites and historical locations.

Regardless of how we came upon the Church of the Beatitudes, as we meditate and pray, looking out onto the Galilee, we may hear the voice of Jesus speaking to us today.

Scriptural References:

  • The Sermon on the Mount: Matthew 5:1-7:28; Luke 6
  • Jesus commissions the disciples: Matthew 28:16-20
  • The Miracles of Jesus: Mark 6 – 7

If you were to visit Israel, would you want to visit the Church of the Beatitudes?  I am so thankful for the opportunity to have visited The Holy Land and thank you for reading about my visit to the Church of the Beatitudes.  Let me know if you have any questions about the site or tell me about your visit in the comments section below.  Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Church of the Beatitudes
Follow signs off of the Tiberias-Rosh Pina highway
Tabgha, Israel
Telephone:  +972 4 679 0978

  • Admission Fee:  5 shekels per person
  • Hours:  Open daily from 8AM to 5PM and closed for lunch from noon to 2PM
  • Amenities:  Historical and religious sites, restrooms (pay 1 shekel), local guides, posted placards, café (coffee, sandwiches and snacks) and gift shop
  • Scenic View:  The view of the Sea of Galilee and the Gennesaret Plain
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Travel Tip:  Wear the appropriate clothing for entering a church having your shoulders and knees covered.  Dress modestly. If you are going on your own, arrive early when the facility opens to avoid tour crowds.  At the gift shop you will find locally produced date nut honey which is exceptional! Visitors can also access the St. Peter’s Primacy Church by taking the trail at the back of the chapel.  The hike will take about 30 minutes.

Where to Stay: 

Club Hotel Tiberias
Ahad Ha’Am Street 19
Tverya, Israel
Telephone:  +972 4 672 8000

Where to Eat:

Magdalena Restaurant
Migdal, Israel 90
Telephone: +972 4 673 0064

This gorgeous restaurant with beautiful views of Galilee has a full menu to include local Israeli dishes and seafood.  Start with the Shrimp Kadaif, made of Mediterranean shrimp wrapped in kadaif (shredded phyllo dough), lemon aioli, Dashi and ginger sauce.  Follow it up with St. Peter’s fish Tilapia baked in herbs and garlic and a side of root vegetables.  The dessert menu offers amazing selections to include Lotus Malbi Cannolis, eclairs and sumptuous brulee.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petra Archaeological Park: Jordan’s Rose City

Mystery and intrigue surrounds the phenomenal red sandstone city of Petra set in the cavernous landscape of Jordan.  A civilization lost for over 500 years, it was re-discovered in 1812 by John Lewis Burckhardt and is now an amazing archaeological park.

Known as the legendary Rose City, Petra was once the capital of the Nabateans who established this civilization over 2500 years ago.  A nomadic people, much like the Bedouins of today, it is speculated that they arrived from Western Arabia to build a stop along the important trade route between Gaza and Syria which then led on to Egypt.  Today, the Petra Archaeological Park encompasses about 100 square kilometers of rugged landscape overhanging Wadi Araba.

Gathering at the archaeological park’s museum before tackling the trail, we were offered the opportunity pass through the Siq by either horseback or horse and buggy for a fee of $20 per person.  Most of us decided to accept the challenge of hiking the path with our guide to learn more about our surroundings and to explore the cavernous landscape.

As we prepared to enter al-Siq (translated as “the shaft”), we noticed square blocks and what appeared to be caves in the rocks along the trail.  The cube shaped structures are known as Djinn blocks, which the Bedouins believe house the spirits that live throughout the land.  Archaeologists believe that they were monuments and tombs that served as memorials for the dead that have stood here before the 2nd century BC.

Approaching a rock cut monument on our left of the trail, our guide explained that the structure is actually two memorials, one on top of the other.  Built between 25 – 75 AD, the upper shrine is known as the Obelisk Tomb which appears to have four mountain peaks carved above a natural cave entrance.  Below the tomb, a triclinium, or a dining hall, was built to prepare banquets and serve wine to honor either a loved one that has passed or one of the gods.

The path leading down to the Treasury is known as the Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses).  It is thought to have been the location where Moses smote the rock and gushing water was provided to the Israelites.  This intimate valley, with its twists and turns, was created by natural events.  First an earthquake developed the 1.5 kilometer long crack while rushing waters softened the edges to create this phenomenal gorge.

The Nabateans were obsessed with collecting water and creating cisterns for water containment. Developing a sophisticated system, carved out niches along the side of the Siq contained clay pipes which delivered water into the city from the fresh water springs.

By the time the Romans brought their influence to the area, the town of Petra was a metropolitan city.  Niches were built into the sides of the red sandstone where statues of various gods and carvings were placed to protect travelers through the Siq.

We have reached the end of the Siq and directly in front of us is the Treasury of Khazneh, immortalized by the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.  The breathtaking image glows by the light of the sun and is the most photographed image of Petra.  The best time for photos is mid-morning and late afternoon.

The monument measures 43 meters by 30 meters and is not a treasury at all, but a mausoleum, thought to have been the tomb for Aretas IV.  Built around the 1st century AD, there are three tombs inside and three below.    Several images have been carved into the rock to create the façade to include Dioscuri with their horses, winged Victories, dancing Amazons, eagles, lions and Medusae.

Our guide suggested that the façade may actually represent a calendar where the columns represent the twelve months of the year and the frieze of 31 flowers symbolizes the days of the month.  Under the triangle there are seven chalices signifying seven days of the week and the 365 “teeth” denoting each day of the year.

Departing the courtyard of the Treasury, I followed the path out towards the Outer Siq where the landscape opened up and additional tombs led to the theater. Referred to as the Streets of Facades, this is the main funerary of Petra, lined with rock cut burial chambers.  Cut into the cliffs and leading into the caves, these carvings represent a variety of architectural influences from the Assyrian, Greek and Roman civilizations.

The main theater marks the end of the Outer Siq, but there were many more tombs and exciting sites that continued down the road.  Resembling Roman and Greek architecture, the stadium seated 6,000 people and may have been used as a meeting place for pilgrims who frequented the city on a regular basis.    The structure includes an auditorium, an orchestra, seating area, stairways and passageways on each side of the theater.

With only a few minutes to shop before making the uphill trek back through the Siq, I stopped at a couple of stalls to find a piece of jewelry and have a look around. I would have loved to have spent a couple of days here to explore the monastery and additional tombs, but we had a long drive ahead of us and another full day of sites tomorrow.

Not much is known about the Nabateans except what is documented by Greek writers, Diororus Sicuolus and Strabo.  Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, many people find Petra to be one of their greatest fascinations.  It would come as no surprise that this archaeological site was declared one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the magical land of Petra?  What aspect of the site do you enjoy the most?  I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the  comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my visit to Petra and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Petra
Petra, Jordan

  • Admission Fee:    The fee structure varies.  For an accommodated visitor who stays at least one night in Jordan:  one day = 50 Jordanian Dinar, two days = 55 Jordanian Dinar; three days = 60 Jordanian Dinar;   Fees for an accommodated visitor who visits Petra in the first day after his/her arrival from the border = 50 Jordanian Dinar;  For a non-accommodated visitor, the entrance fee is 90 Jordanian Dinar. Children under the age of 12 are free of charge.
  • Hours:  Open daily from 6 AM to 6 PM during the summer and from 6 AM to 4 PM in the winter.
  • Amenities:  Brochures are provided in Arabic, English, French, Spanish, German and Italian as well as maps. These items are available at the Visitor’s Center.   Licensed Guides can be booked for those visitors who speak the following languages:  Arabic, English, French Spanish, German, Russian and Greek.  Petra Museum and Nabatean Museum, hiking, archaeological maps. Special event “Petra by Night” (8:30 – 10:30PM) for an additional cost.
  • Scenic View:   The gorgeous view of the Treasury at the end of the Siq; It will take a bit of hiking, but if make a right once you leave the Siq, you will find a set of stairs after passing a few cave like houses and then reach a set of stairs.  Once you reach the top of the stairs, you will see an arrow that tells you to go to the left (photo with a little tent) or to the right you will have a much better view. However, be careful!!  Do not stand out too close to the edge.  Photos of Petra at Night are absolutely phenomenal!
  • Length of Visit:  For the highlights, you can expect to spend at least 3 to 4 hours here.  If you can spend two days in Petra, you will be able to experience most of the park.
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for hiking.  Obey the rules of the park (i.e., do not litter, do not stand on the monuments).  Visit the website for more information. The best time to take photos is mid-morning and late afternoon.  The archaeological site kindly asks visitors not to purchase any antiquities including rocks or coins.  A valid passport or ID will be required to purchase your ticket.  The ticket does not include the night event “Petra by Night”, which is an additional 17 Jordanian Dinar. The program last 2 hours and it runs every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday of each week. No advance reservations required as unlimited tickets are sold for this event.  A valid daylight ticket is required.

Where to Stay:

The Regency Palace Hotel Amman
Queen Alya Street
Sport City Road
Amman, 11110, Jordan
Telephone:   +962 6 560 7000

Where to Eat:

Petra Magic Restaurant
Touristic Boulevard, Petra
Wadi Musa 86, Jordan
Telephone:   +962 3 215 7500

What to Eat: 

  • Kubbeh is similar to falafal in that it is served in a ball but made with meat and spices then deep fried.
  • Manqusheh is similar to pizza made with flatbread topped with olive oil and spice (usually za’atar which is similar to thyme)
  • Ka’ak is a large pretzel like pastry that is usually eaten at breakfast time.  Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are readily available at bakeries and roadside stalls.
  • Potato swirls are similar to french fries, cut and deep fried.
  • Qatayef is a pancake-style dessert stuffed with cheese, nuts or sugar and spices and are popular during the Ramadan holiday
  • Kunafeh is a pastry similar to baklava covered in syrup and cheese

What to Read: 

  • Khirbet Khizeh by S. Y. Yizhar
  • The Hilltop, by Assaf Gavron
  • Dancing Arabs by Sayed Kashua
  • The People of Forever are Not Afraid, by Shani Boianjiu
  • Five Seasons, by A.B. Yehoshua
  • Twenty-One Stories by S. Y. Agnon
  • Suddenly, A Knock on the Door by Etgar Keret
  • Apples from the Desert, by Savyon Liebrecht
  • From the Four Winds, by Haim Sabato
  • To the End of the Land, by David Grossman
  • A Tale of Love and Darkness, by Amos Oz

Photo Guide for Israel: 

  • The Western Wall for a religious experience
  • Jaffa’s Old Town for its charm
  • The Dead Sea for its interesting topography
  • Caesarea Harbor and its Roman architecture and history are worth a visit
  • Arbel National Park and Nature Reserve provides a phenomenal view of the Sea of Galilee
  • The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Old City Jerusalem is said to be the burial location of Jesus
  • The view of the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives

What I Learned on my Way to Petra, Jordan

In preparation for my trip to Jordan and Israel, I eagerly watched Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade to relive Indiana Jones’ arrival into the archaeological site of Petra.  As the scene approached where Harrison Ford appeared before the spectacular façade, I could hardly  believe that soon I would be arriving in Petra in a couple of days to explore this ancient Nabatean site for myself.

The wake-up call came early, but I was buzzing with adrenaline as I jumped out of bed to prepare for this journey of a lifetime.  Anticipating a long day ahead, our tour group met for breakfast where we ate a hearty meal of eggs, cold cuts, hot dogs (beef), falafel, vegetables and French fries with ketchup.

We met our local Jordanian guide and boarded our motor coach for the three and a half hour bus ride from Amman.  I brought along my notes to read from a series of archaeological DVDs that I rented from the library, “The Holy Land Revealed”.   A total of thirty-six lectures by world-renowned archaeologist, Jodi Magness from the University of North Carolina, I had learned so much from her in-depth review of some of the fabulous sites I would be visiting on our itinerary.

I was mesmerized by my surroundings on the road to Petra and shortly into our journey, the bus pulled into the local police station.  Our guide explained that Jordanian law requires groups of ten or more in size to retain a police escort.  In addition to safety, our guard would assist with any unforeseeable traffic issues as well as provide any services that may require additional security.   It was here where we were met our friendly, handsome security guard, who would be travelling with us throughout Jordan.

Shortly thereafter, the bus made another stop, pulling into a store with a small café where we purchased snacks, washed up and shopped for souvenirs.  We learned quickly that it is customary to pay a small fee to use the facilities, so we stashed away small coins for future stops.  Loading up on chips and sodas, buying a few keffiyehs (Arabian head wraps), we set off for a couple more hours on the road until we reached the Rose City of Petra.

A small set of buildings with shops and restaurants was our stop for lunch outside of the archaeological site of Petra. We enjoyed a buffet style meal for $15 per person which included an amazing spread of food and a soft drink.  Three tables of Middle Eastern cuisine and chicken cooked on the grill were prepared for our arrival.   The Jordanians love vegetables, so we found them stuffed, sautéed, grilled and baked.  They are known for their blend of spices called za’atar, which includes the key ingredient Sumac.  We had an abundance of olives, chick peas, yogurt, falafel (chick peas rolled in a ball and fried), pickles, tabbouleh (a salad made of tomatoes, parsley, mint, bulgur, onion, olive oil and lemon juice) cole slaw and baba ghanoush (eggplant, tahini, olive oils and seasoning).   The desserts included a wide selection of fruits, figs, baklava and halva, a peanut type paste which is absolutely delicious.  The multi-colored selection was extravagant and gave us a wide range of options from which to choose.

My eyes were drawn to the twelve foot glass windows along the back wall of the restaurant that framed a spectacular landscape. Craggy mountains loomed in the distance towering over the valley of houses below.  We learned that this is Mt. Hor, where Abraham had once lived.  After lunch, we ventured out onto the balcony for a few photos when the afternoon Muslim prayer came over the speaker from a nearby mosque.

Soon we would be arriving into the ancient civilization of Petra where we would have a long trek ahead of us.  With full stomachs and a burst of energy, we departed the little town to explore the legendary archaeological site of the Nabataeans to experience our own Indiana Jones adventure.

Have you visited Jordan?  Which sites and restaurants did you see?  I would be interested in learning more about your travels to Jordan if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my pilgrimage to the Middle East and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Petra
Petra, Jordan

  • Admission Fee:    The fee structure varies.  For an accommodated visitor who stays at least one night in Jordan:  one day = 50 Jordanian Dinar, two days = 55 Jordanian Dinar; three days = 60 Jordanian Dinar;   Fees for an accommodated visitor who visits Petra in the first day after his/her arrival from the border = 50 Jordanian Dinar;  For a non-accommodated visitor, the entrance fee is 90 Jordanian Dinar. Children under the age of 12 are free of charge.
  • Hours:  Open daily from 6 AM to 6 PM during the summer and from 6 AM to 4 PM in the winter.
  • Amenities:  Brochures are provided in Arabic, English, French, Spanish, German and Italian as well as maps. These items are available at the Visitor’s Center.   Licensed Guides can be booked for those visitors who speak the following languages:  Arabic, English, French Spanish, German, Russian and Greek.  Petra Museum and Nabatean Museum, hiking, archaeological maps. Special event “Petra by Night” (8:30 – 10:30PM) for an additional cost.
  • Scenic View:   The gorgeous view of the Treasury at the end of the Siq; It will take a bit of hiking, but if make a right once you leave the Siq, you will find a set of stairs after passing a few cave like houses and then reach a set of stairs.  Once you reach the top of the stairs, you will see an arrow that tells you to go to the left (photo with a little tent) or to the right you will have a much better view. However, be careful!!  Do not stand out too close to the edge.  Photos of Petra at Night are absolutely phenomenal!
  • Length of Visit:  For the highlights, you can expect to spend at least 3 to 4 hours here.  If you can spend two days in Petra, you will be able to experience most of the park.
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for hiking.  Obey the rules of the park (i.e., do not litter, do not stand on the monuments).  Visit the website for more information. The best time to take photos is mid-morning and late afternoon.  The archaeological site kindly asks visitors not to purchase any antiquities including rocks or coins.  A valid passport or ID will be required to purchase your ticket.  The ticket does not include the night event “Petra by Night”, which is an additional 17 Jordanian Dinar. The program last 2 hours and it runs every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday of each week. No advance reservations required as unlimited tickets are sold for this event.  A valid daylight ticket is required.

Where to Stay:

The Regency Palace Hotel Amman
Queen Alya Street
Sport City Road
Amman, 11110, Jordan
Telephone:   +962 6 560 7000

Where to Eat:

Petra Magic Restaurant
Touristic Boulevard, Petra
Wadi Musa 86, Jordan
Telephone:   +962 3 215 7500

What to Eat: 

  • Falafel are crisp balls made of chickpeas and is a staple street food of Jordan.
  • Fattet Hummus is a chickpea based spread which also includes pieces of pita bread, tahini, pine nuts and topped with a generous portion of olive oil.
  • Kunafa was one of my favorite desserts from Jordan made of a pastry and stuffed with cheese and syrup.
  • Mansaf is Jordan’s national dish. This aromatic meal is served family style and layered beginning with a thin flatbread, rice, meat (camel or goat) then garnished with toasted nuts and yogurt.
  • Maqluba was served at our Jordanian local dinner with a Christian family.  Our host brought a large pan filled with chicken, rice, potatoes and vegetables and turned the pan upside down on a large plate.  One of the tasty spices in this dish is sumac, so I purchased several bags of this spice to bring home.
  • Shawarma is a pita bread filled with lamb, chicken or beef.
  • Zaarb is traditionally cooked over a campfire.  A stew-like meal made of beef and vegetables, it is traditionally cooked in a pit.

What to Read: 

  • Married to a Bedouin, Marguerite van  Geldermalsen
  • Leap of Faith, by Queen Noor
  • Appointment with Death, by Agatha Christie
  • Pillars of Salt, by Fadia Faqir
  • The Tower, by Allesandro Gallenzi
  • Seven Pillars of Wisdom, by T.E. Lawrence

Photo Guide for Petra: 

  • The Siq (walkway that reaches the Rose City) to include the chariot shot as well as the crack
  • The Treasury as you enter from the Siq and from above by taking a path leading up to the perfect viewpoint
  • The Royal Tombs’ Urn Tomb

Arriving in Amman, Jordan

Leaving the airport of Amman, Jordan, the bus sped by miles of desert as the back window beside my seat rattled incessantly.  Our guide pointed out interesting sights along the route while our driver remained focused on delivering us safely to the hotel before dinner. The early afternoon sun shone down upon the sandy, arid landscape where abandoned concrete outbuildings sporadically appeared along the highway.  Small green bushes rose up from the barren wilderness providing a feast to nearby herds of sheep that seemed to disappear into the dust as the motor coach raced down the open road.

We were traveling the King Hussain Highway towards our destination for the night, where we would stay at The Regency Palace Hotel in downtown Amman. Small villages appeared on occasion providing a brief glimpse into the everyday lives of the Jordanians.  Coffee shops, mini marts and automobile repair services were in abundance while wedding shops displayed beautiful gowns through second story windows. On occasion, space opened up between the buildings exposing a deep valley with additional outcropped structures and skyscrapers standing within the basin.

With over four million inhabitants living in Amman and its surrounding towns, this large city appears like any other with tall buildings, rush hour traffic and a beautiful urban skyline.  The city continues to grow with the addition of over 50,000 Syrian immigrants settling into Jordan each year.

It was a long day, so most of us took some time to relax before dinner.  Searching for a scenic view, I explored the hotel’s rooftop bar which looked as though it had not been used for days.   A glass door led to the entrance where chairs were overturned and heat lamps had been left on their sides.  Empty glasses rested on the bar and crumpled up napkins scattered on the sticky floor.  I was drawn to the north side of the building where I could hear cheers coming from the local football (soccer) stadium.   Peering over the edge of a glass partition, I hoped to catch a glimpse of the sports field but was caught off guard by the Muslim call to prayer coming from the minarets of the local mosque.  The spectacular hues of pinks and oranges poured out from the cloudy skyline as the sun began to set in the distance,  The wind began to pick up and the temperature dropped dramatically as soon as the sun disappeared into the horizon.

The buffet style dinner at the Regency Palace consisted of local cuisine including  hummus, and a number of salads with cucumbers, tomatoes and onions.  Bowls of fresh and grilled vegetables were filled with eggplant, coleslaw, baba ghanoush and falafel.  For the main course, I couldn’t resist the panko-fried fish which was cooked to perfection.

Our guides announced that we would be departing for Petra in the morning and that they would arrange an early wake up call for 6:30 in the morning.  i could hardly contain my excitement knowing that we were in for quite the adventure  filled with camels, Bedouins and a historical review of this beautiful World Heritage Site.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Jordan? Where were some of the places you visited and what was your most memorable experience?  I would love to hear about your adventures if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my unforgettable trip to Jordan and check out my upcoming posts about the breathtaking site of Petra!  Wishing you many Happy Travels!

Where to Stay:

The Regency Palace Hotel Amman
Queen Alya Street
Sport City Road
Amman, 11110, Jordan
Telephone:   +962 6 560 7000

Endless Views of Lake Erie from Perry’s Victory & International Peace Memorial

Having lived in Ohio most of my life, I was surprised I had never heard of the Lake Erie Islands when a friend asked me if I wanted to spend a long weekend exploring Put-in-Bay.  Curious to learn more about this popular Ohio vacation spot, I found that Put-in-Bay is a town on one of the thirty-three islands that make up the Erie Islands archipelago.  The three most visited in Ohio include Kelleys Island, South Bass and Middle Bass islands off the shore of Port Clinton.

The drive was nearly three hours from Dublin so we checked into the Sleep Inn on OH-53 to drop off our luggage and have lunch.  We found this great Mexican place next door and had a couple of drinks and tacos at Casa Las Palmas.  Just over 10 minutes and we reached the parking lot to catch the ferry, courtesy of Miller’s Ferry, which dropped us off at the island.  We had the option to walk or wait for a  bus to drive us into town, so we chose the bus for a $2 fee.

The bus dropped us off at the edge of town where we immediately recognized its charm as we found ourselves at the corner of Main Street and Langram Road.  Deciding to reach the pier, we made our way through the large tree-filled lawn.  To our right I noticed a large Doric column out of the corner of my eye which looked more like a Washington DC monument than an Ohio memorial.

We had some drinks at the Boardwalk and then wine at Put-in-Bay Winery overlooking the lake taking in the boats docked in the harbor.  It was the perfect day to slip into the nearby bars for a drink and bar hop the afternoon away.

A long sidewalk arrives at the base of the tower which connects downtown Put-in-Bay to East Point.  We arrived at entrance within minutes from the pier and paid the $10 entrance fee.  With sunny skies and miles of visibility, I was looking forward to reaching the top.

We boarded the elevator to reach the platform with 360 degrees of breathtaking views.  Sailboats and speedboats dotted the crescent shaped harbor.

A closer look at the peninsula that rounds out the moon-shaped edge of the island, shows beautiful homes with gorgeous views of Lake Erie’s clear water.

The monument was named after Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry who fought against the British in the Battle of Lake Erie.  With his famous motto, “Don’t Give Up the Ship”, Perry took control of Lake Erie, which helped win the War of 1812.

A map of the site where the war took place has been engraved in steel on the observation deck.  Perry’s Victory and International Peace Memorial was first built in 1915 to represent the long-lasting peace between the United States, Canada and Britain.  Standing 352 feet above Lake Erie, it is the tallest Doric column in the world.

The copper rotunda at the top of the tower is decorative and stylish.  In memory of those who fought in the battle, the names of Perry and the six soldiers who lost their lives are commemorated on its walls.  The bodies of the six have been buried under its rotunda.

Standing 47 feet higher than the Statue of Liberty, Perry’s Memorial is the only international peace memorial in the US National Park System and ranks high on my list of things to do in Put-in-Bay.

Have you visited Put-in-Bay, one of Ohio’s Lake Erie vacation spots?  What were some of the activities that are on the top of your list?  I would love to hear about your experience if  you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Perry’s Victory and International Peace Monument
93 Delaware Avenue
Put-in-Bay, Ohio  43456
Telephone:  419 285 2184

Where to Stay:

Sleep Inn, Port Clinton
947 OH-53 N
Port Clinton, OH  43452
Telephone:  419 732 7707

Where to Eat:

Casa Las Palmas
4000 E Harbor Light Landing Drive
Port Clinton, OH  43452
Telephone:  419 734 6593

What to Read:

  • Put-In-Bay books by Robert Adamov

Photo Guide for Put-in-Bay:

  • Perry’s Victory & International Peace Memorial, Put-in-Bay
  • Front entrance gate at Cedar Point
  • Glacial Grooves, Kelleys Island
  • Inside Crystal Cave, Put-in-Bay
  • Sunset from West Bay, Kelleys Island
  • Lake Erie Love signs, Nickel Plate Beach, Huron and Waterworks Park, Port Clinton
  • “Greetings From” murals, Port Clinton and Vermillion

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