Category Archives: United Kingdom

Royalty at its Finest at Windsor Castle

Our tour bus arrived in the regal town of Windsor and parked near the train station before we stumbled out into the winter chill.  Located thirty miles west of London, Windsor Castle overlooks the fertile Berkshire landscape of England and its battlements can be seen from miles around.  One of three magnificent residences of London’s royal family, Windsor Castle, has been inhabited by the rulers of England for nearly a millennium.

Our guide directed us to an upstairs shopping center with coffee shops, cafes and shopping boutiques crowded with visitors from the morning tour of the castle.  Couples sitting across from each other at intimate tables designed for two were enjoying a bite to eat while discussing their plans for what remained of the day.   I found myself desperately trying to keep up with the tour, winding through a maze of strangers until I was deposited at the opposite end of the Windsor Royal Shops located across the street from the royal residence.

The cobblestone streets led to an unexpected view of the castle.  The muted colors of the grey sarsen stone and deep red wooden accents have, over the years, replaced William the Conqueror’s original castle built in 1080.   Today, it is the official residence of the Queen of England and is hailed as Britain’s oldest continually inhabited royal home.   Atop of one of the towers was a  tiny clock with a black face and golden Roman numerals preparing us for the start of the next tour.

William built the fortress to guard London against enemies approaching from the west.  Small slits at the base of each tower protected the castle’s defenders as they shot arrows toward invaders who dared to attempt an attack.

Advancing towards the entrance to Windsor Castle, we noticed brick buildings and pastel covered storefronts ahead housing a museum, banks, shops and pubs with fish and chips.  A bronze statue of Queen Victoria stood in the center of Peascod Street where we made a left.  Up a mild slope, reaching a small set of stairs, we happened upon the ticket counter designated for groups and took our place in line.

Within minutes, we were shackled with wrist bands and audio tour devices.  We departed the waiting area where we were met with more cobblestone streets and an archway that pointed us in the direction of the castle.

Recognized as the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world, Windsor Castle includes 1,000 rooms.  I learned that the castle has been home to eight successive royal houses and was the primary childhood home of Queen Elizabeth II and considers it her favorite residence.  My entrance fee allowed me access to the grounds of the castle as well as the staterooms, Queen Mary’s Doll House display and St. George’s Chapel.  During my visit, I would have the opportunity to tour the Great Kitchen, witness the Changing of the Guard and explore the various monarch tombs in the chapel.

Before arranging the logistics to my tour to Windsor Castle, I learned that my cousin, Jim Ambuske, PhD was honored as one of the few American historians selected to review the historical documents of King George III.   He was incredibly helpful with a list of shops and pubs to visit while I was in Windsor.  Queen Elizabeth II had recently announced that she would allow access to these precious artifacts which included letters, journal entries and personal belongings of the King.   King George III reigned over Britain from 1760 to 1820 and made vast improvements to Windsor Castle transforming it into its current picturesque “Gothic” style, Georgian architecture.  I pictured my cousin sitting in the Round Tower reviewing documents and private royal possessions that had been locked away in the Royal Archives for over 200 years.

During the audio tour, I enjoyed learning many interesting facts about Windsor Castle, its history and the royal families that have lived here nearly 1,000 years.  The land on which the castle stands was once owned by Harold Godwinson who used the land as a hunting ground.  The original castle stood on a 50 foot motte, an artificial hill of dirt where the castle was built and had a 13 acre bailey, a courtyard located within the walls of the castle.  Where the Round Tower stands today, William constructed a wooden keep located at the castle’s most central location acting as its inner stronghold.

Many kings at Windsor Castle have contributed to the expansion and renovations of the castle resulting in the magnificent architectural beauty that remains today.

In 1347, Edward III began a major rebuilding program to expand the castle but it was Charles II’s 130,000 pound restoration that would include the addition of new state apartments, and alterations to St. George’s Hall and the King’s Chapel.    What remains of Charles II’s 1670s renovations can be seen in the King’s Dining Room and in the Queen’s Presence and Audience Changes.  My favorite addition to the castle’s landscape are the beautiful elms of the Long Walk, a 3-mile route that begins at the south entrance of the Castle to Windsor Great Park.

George III enlarges the Queen’s Lodge, George IV employs the assistance of Sir Jeffry Wyatville for another remodel project and Edward VII brings electricity to the castle in the early 20th century.  

Passing through the King Henry VIII gate, is one of the most significant additions to the castle, St. George’s Chapel.  Founded by Edward IV in 1475, this gorgeous Gothic structure was completed by Henry VIII in 1528 and would become the burial place for no less than 10 monarchs.

St. George’s Chapel was built as a burial chamber for Edward IV to replace the former house of worship, built on the premises.  Most visitors will agree that it is one of the most fascinating examples of late Gothic architecture and is a highlight of one’s visit to Windsor Castle.

Approaching the entrance to St. George’s Chapel, my eyes are drawn to the pinnacles above the flying buttresses.  The seventy-six carved figures are the Queen’s Beasts, representing the Royal Supporters of England.  These animal statues include the lion of England, the red dragon of Wales, the panther of Jane Seymour, the falcon of York, the black bull of Clarence, the yale of Beaufort, the white lion of Mortimer, the greyhound of Richmond the white hart of Richard II, the silver antelope of Bohun, the black dragon of Ulster, the white swan of Hereford, the unicorn of Edward II and the golden hind of Kent.

Inside, the windows allow the light to illuminate the marble floors and the luxurious artwork covering the walls.  The highlights of my visit include the West Window with stained glass images of 75 saints, popes and royal family  members, the tomb of Henry VIII and the brilliant multi-dimensional architecture of the chapel’s ceiling, displaying the Banners of the Knights of the Garter.

The first Round Tower of Windsor Castle was built of wood by William the Conqueror atop the Norman motte.  Offering spectacular views of the River Thames, it was the perfect outpost for the defense of the castle.  The current stone structure of the Round Tower was built by Henry II in 1170 and today houses the Royal Archives and Photographic Collection.

In 2011, the Round Tower was open to the public for tours, having been closed to visitors since 1975.  For a limited time in the summer months, the “Conquer the Tower” tour includes a visit to the cannonade at the base of the tower which was an added defense for the castle during Medieval times.  Ticket holders will be able to climb the 200 steps to the top of the Round Tower for a spectacular view of the London skyline and a close up view of the flagpole which displays the Royal Standard when the Queen is in residence or the Union Flag when she is not.

Located on the Upper Ward of Windsor Castle, surrounding the upper bailey, are the State Apartments and private apartments of the Royal Family.  Known for their exquisite interiors, these rooms were renovated by Charles II to rival the gorgeous quarters of King Louis XIV’s Versailles.  The King’s Dining Room, the Queen’s Presence Chamber and Audience Chamber are what remain of Charles II’s contribution to the Apartments, where ceilings were painted by Antonio Verrio and wood carvings created by Grinling Gibbons.

Queen Elizabeth took on the transformation of Windsor Castle’s State Apartments including St. George’s Hall after a devastating fire in 1992.  While some areas were restored to their original magnificence, the Octagon Dining Room, Lantern Lobby and St. George’s Hall were renovated to reflect the Queen’s preferences.

I was so excited to explore my final exhibit on my tour of Windsor Castle, Queen Mary’s Doll House.  Designed by Sir Edwin Luutyens in 1924, this exquisite dollhouse is the largest, most extravagant, most famous dollhouse in the world.  Built in the Palladian style, the house represented an Edwardian townhouse with running water, electricity and working elevators.  Luutyens received contributions from over 1500 artists and designers to furnish the house which included all of the luxuries one could imagine, including a fully stocked wine cellar containing genuine vintage wine.

Queen Mary’s Doll House is incredibly impressive with its elaborate miniature furnishings, architecture and interior design.  Standing three feet tall, each room was decorated with only the finest and most modern products available in the early 20th century.  While the carpets and curtains match Windsor Castle, I can’t help but notice the grand piano, monogrammed towels, the vacuum cleaner and a garage with fully functioning automobiles.  After returning home, I learned about a book written by Vita Sackville-West, A Note of Explanation, a children’s story about the adventures of a sprite that inhabits the dollhouse.

With only a half an hour left before boarding the bus, I set aside time to visit the royal gift shop and stroll through the shopping plaza for some coffee and a small bite to eat.  I purchased a Corgi and a commemorative plate from the Queen’s 90th birthday at Buckingham Palace and opted to pick up a sandwich and tea for the road.  Stonehenge, here we come!

Have you had the opportunity to visit Windsor Castle?  What fun places did you visit? Was there a restaurant or shop that you enjoyed?  I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my exciting day in Windsor and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

Windsor Castle
Windsor, Berkshire, UK SL4 1NJ

  • Admission Fee:  £21.20 for adults (18 – 59); £13.30  for children ages 5 -17; children for and under are free; Seniors (60+)  are £19.30
  • Hours:  November 1 to February 28: Open from 10AM to 4:15PM (3PM is the last admission); March 1 – October 31:  Open from 10AM to 5:15PM (4PM is the last admission); Check the website for special closures
  • Amenities:  a multimedia guide is available in English, French, German, Spanish , Italian, Japanese, Brazilian Portuguese, Russian and Mandarin, museum, gift shop, restrooms, special events
  • Length of Visit:  2.5 – 3 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for walking.  The busiest time is morning and early afternoon, so it is suggested to arrive after midday.  Photographs are not permitted within St. George’s Chapel or the State Apartments. Re-entry permits are available should you plan on returning to the site throughout the day

Where to Stay:

Sir Christopher Wren
Thames Street
Windsor, Berkshire, UK  SL4 1PX
Telephone: +44 1753 442400

Enjoy dinner along the Thames River!  This charming boutique hotel is located in the heart of Windsor and offers free Wifi, a conference center and access to the Wren Club with a gym, Jacuzzi, sauna, and spa treatments!

Where to Eat:

Macdonald Compleat Angler Hotel
Marlow Bridge
Bisham, Marlow, UK  SL7 1RG
Telephone:   +44 344 879 9128

Another gorgeous restaurant for riverside dining!

The Fox and Hounds Restaurant and Bar
Bishopsgate Road
Englefiel Green, Egham, UK  TW20 0XU
Fish Fridays and dogs are welcome everyday!  Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

What to Eat: 

  • Bacon Sandwich consists of a generous amount of bacon between two pieces of bread seasoned with ketchup
  • Bangers and Mash are otherwise known as sausages and mashed potatoes
  • Beef Wellington
  • Bread Pudding
  • Fish and Chips
  • Full English Breakfast which includes sausages, eggs, beans, toast, hash browns, tomatoes, black pudding and much more
  • Haggis, Neeps and Tatties are comprised  of sheep’s heart, liver and lungs cooked with oatmeal, onions, spices and stock.  The neeps and tatties are turnips and potatoes
  • Spotted Dick is a pastry of dried fruits served with a custard
  • Steak and Kidney Pie is a filling of steak and beans inside of a pastry
  • Sticky Toffee Pudding
  • Sunday Roast

What to Read: 

  • The Uncommon Reader, by Alan Bennett
  • Revengeful Death, Jennie Melville
  • George VI by Denis Judd
  • Death at Windsor Castle, by C. C. Benison

Photo Guide for Windsor: 

  • The City of Windsor
  • Windsor Castle

The Mystery of Stonehenge

My friend David arrived in London where we spent time with his son and girlfriend.  Before leaving for Paris, we made plans to visit Stonehenge which had been on our bucket lists for quite some time.  Deciding to make a day of it, we booked a tour that included a stop at the luxurious Windsor Castle and the charming town of Bath.

Before we reached the entrance to Stonehenge, we could see the Stone Circle from miles away.  In the distance, the stones seemed small and unassuming until the bus continued up the drive to the Visitor Center and an eerie wave of fog rolled in

Stonehenge, a unique, circular arrangement of bluestone, is located 80 miles west of London in the county of Wiltshire in the central part of southern England.  Standing in the midst of English farmland, the closest town to this architectural phenomenon is Amesbury, 2.5 miles east.

David and I agreed that had we not read about Stonehenge prior to our arrival, we may have left here more confused.  The mere fact that this structure had survived thousands of years is enough to appreciate its simplicity.  We debated on how the rocks could have been arranged so long ago with limited tools.  So mystifying and magical,

Archaeological estimates date the first initial stage of Stonehenge to have been built around 3,000 BC when the large circular stonework was erected.  Sarsen stones were placed in the shape of a horseshoe while an additional circle of bluestones were added in between them about 500 years later.

What remains of Stonehenge today is the ring of thirty stones that stand 13.5 feet high, 7 feet wide, weighing about 25 tons per stone.  Recent scientific finds have uncovered burial mounds nearby which date back to the Bronze Age, long after the stones were initially raised.

The fog was beginning to lift as we departed the bus at the Visitor’s Center and boarded a tram that took us to a path leading to Stonehenge.  There were several posted placards along the trail leading to Stonehenge providing additional information about the structure as well as additional earthworks surrounding the Stone Circle.

We came to a fork in the path where we could take a short detour to the Heel Stone where the Avenue meets the earthwork enclosure. This rock remains in its natural state, untouched by tools.  Legend declares that it was here where the devil threw a stone at a friar, leaving the friar’s foot imprint upon the stone.  We thought the stone resembled a whale jumping up from the ocean.  Yet one thing is certain, the stone was positioned to mark the rising sun on the day of solstice.

Retracing our steps, we made a left towards the Stone Circle, identifying the larger, outer circle of sarsen stones (“hard silicified sandstone found scattered naturally across chalk areas of southern England”) the smaller formation of bluestones towards the center.  Had the weather cooperated with a bit of sunshine, we may have been able to see the orange-brown and blue colors of the stone.

We identified stone lintels and tried to imagine Stonehenge when it was first constructed known as the place of the “hanging stones”.   Making an educated guess, we tried to determine where the altar stone would have been located.  We wished we would have brought binoculars to try to find the slaughter stone or to identify stone number 53, which is said to show evidence of the Mycenaen civilization.  Because the Stone Circle is roped off to preserve the land within and surrounding the stones, we were limited to how close we could reach the structure.

Surprisingly, at about the time we were ready to make our way back to the Visitor’s Center, the sky began to clear up just enough for us to explore the huts of the prehistoric inhabitants near Stonehenge and make a quick stop at the gift shop to purchase a Stonehenge Woolly Jumpers Sheep Tea Pot.

Prehistoric in nature, several theories have tried to explain how these stones at Stonehenge were erected and why.  The most popular beliefs are that it was once a Druid temple or a cult center.  It may be a simple as a place where ancestors worshipped or as complicated as an astronomical computer for predicting eclipses and solar events.  We may not determine the reason in our lifetime, but Stonehenge is undoubtedly a once in a lifetime experience during the summer solstice and continues to attract over one million visitors per year.

Have you visited Stonehenge?  Did you take an excursion from London or stay local?  If you are interested in learning more about this fascinating World Heritage site, I recommend the book by Christopher Chippindale titled, Stonehenge Complete.  Many thanks for taking the time to read about my visit to Stonehenge and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Stonehenge
Amesbury
Salisbury SP4 7DE, United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 0370 333 1181

  • Admission Fee:  £19.50 for adults (16 – 59); £11.70  for childrens ages 5 -15; children for and under are free; Seniors (60+)  are £17.60
  • Hours:  Open daily from 9:30AM to 5PM
  • Amenities:  Outdoor archaeological site, museum, cafe, museum store, restrooms, special events
  • Scenic View:  The Stonehenge Archaeological site
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Do not climb over the ropes; stay within public areas permitted by visitors.  Check out the exhibits.  During my visit, there were over 250 archaeological artifacts on display from pottery to ancient human remains.

Where to Stay:
Budget Hotel

George Hotel
19 High Street
Amesbury, Salisbury
SP4 7ET, United Kingdom
Telephone:  44 1980 622108

Where to Eat:

Solstice Bar & Grill
Mid Summer Place
Tidworth, Wiltshire SP4 7SQ
United Kingdom
Telephone:  +44  0845 241 3535

What to Read:

  • Stonehenge, by Bernard Cornwall
  • Stone Lord: The Legend of King Arthur, the Era of Stonehenge, by J.P. Reedman
  • The Pillar of the Sky, by Cecilia Holland
  • A Brief History of Stonehenge, by Aubrey Burl

 

Bath, England: Ancient Rome’s Influence on the United Kingdom

Bath, England, was once an artists’ paradise where the likes of Jane Austen, the famous writer, made frequent visits as a child.  Today, visitors from all over the world are drawn to the historical Roman baths, the beautiful Bath Abbey and the quaint pedestrian square lined with British restaurants and souvenir shops.

On our way to Bath, the countryside was dotted with farms and charming villages as well as picturesque cottages and lovingly tended gardens. Corner pubs seemed to have been plucked from a popular London crossroad and relocated to this rural scene.

The purpose of my trip to Bath was to explore the Roman Baths, the site of Aquae Sulis and the surrounding courtyard, that were built here in the 1st century AD. Rome’s empire spanned as far as England at the height of its success and this therapeutic pool of water is what remains of Rome’s influence on this area.   

Our big red bus dropped us off in the heart of Bath so we followed the crowds making their way to the Roman baths and took in the extraordinary charm of the town.  The cobblestone roads and Georgian architecture reminded me of Jane Austen’s book about Bath’s high society in Northanger Abbey and her novel, Persuasion.

The sky had been threatening to rain all morning, but seemed to have held off for now. Our wait in line extended out the doors and around the corner near Bath Abbey and somehow I managed to bring up the end.

While standing in line, I noticed the square was surrounded by four story buildings with shops, restaurants and bakeries on the ground floor open for business.  The Roman Baths Kitchen, Jack’s of Bath, tourist center to exchange money, the Cornish Bakery, the Edinburgh Woolen Mill, Hawkin’s Bazaar were well lit and provided a respite from the drizzling rain.

Bath Abbey stands behind me in the Abbey Church Yard in the heart of the city.  The dark, carved wooden arched doors, gorgeous stained glass windows and yellow-hued Bath stone are highlights of the Gothic façade, while its crown jewel are the stone angels climbing up Jacob’s Ladder towards heaven.    The church is dedicated to Saint Peter and Saint Paul and was formerly a Benedictine monastery founded in the 7th century.

Our entry into the Roman Baths provided us access to the upper and lower levels of the museum.  Following along the top floor of the complex, statues of Roman emperors and British governors lined up at intervals along the terrace overlooking the Great Bath.  From this point of view, I clearly noticed the green water of the bath below and wondered if it was warm, as steam seemed to have been coming off of the pool.  A doorway led into a dark room where well lit exhibits provided a timeline and explained how Rome transformed the Sacred Spring of Bath into England’s first spa.

The Sacred Spring not only fed into the baths, but was a collection pool for curses and offerings to the gods and goddesses.   Metallic inscriptions on lead or pewter contained curses where locals would write the names of the suspects and blaspheme them for their wrongdoing, many times for theft or perjury. Offerings to the goddess included jewelry, personal belongings or even coins.  Some of the currency dated back to the Republic when Augustus was Caesar of Rome.

The lower level leads to the Great Bath yet the complex extends beneath the square and streets of town.  The water’s natural temperature is a steady 46 degrees Celsius.  The pool’s depth is just over five feet and stairs lead down on each side.  Tables and benches may have lined the sides of the pool where visitors could enjoy drinks and snacks.

Large pipes of water extended from the Great Bath on the east and west sides creating additional spa features to the complex.  The baths were constructed where the patrons would begin with the hottest bath to the coldest.  The hot plunge bath, known as the Caldarium, was heated by a system under the floor called the hypocaust. They were constructed of stacks of pilae (tiles) that allowed the heated air to circulate throughout the floors and surrounding walls.  The Laconicum, similar to today’s sauna, was a small room with intense heat designed to induce sweating.

The final bathing experience was the cold bath which helped close the pores of the skin.  The water would have come from outside of the baths, most likely a nearby cold water spring.  The two columns were added in 1904 as additional support when electric trams were installed.

Adjacent to the Roman Baths was the Temple of Sulis Minerva, honoring the native Celtic goddess of the spa, who carried out the curses provided to her in the Sacred Spring. The temple, built in the classical style, had four large Corinthian columns that supported both the Temple Pediment and beautifully decorated frieze.   The Temple Pediment, discovered in 1790, is one of the most fascinating relics of the temple.  The detail in this piece of artwork is thought to have come from the area of Gaul in the first century AD.

An inscription that was found in the Temple of Minerva is dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva and may have been the podium that supported her statue.  Identified as the Haruspex stone, it was committed to the temple by a Haruspex priest L. Marcius Memor, who had the power to provide consulting services and made important decisions for the temple.

Several tombstones and relics on display represent the kinds of people who lived and died near the Roman bath.  Many came to Bath, from Europe, leaving their homes to find work here.   One stone inscription was identified as the gravestone of Rusonia Aventina who passed away at the age of 58.  She came to Bath from Metz, France.

Another fascinating find was the altar where the priests conducted animal sacrifices.  Several altar stones and inscriptions were found at the Temple of Sulis Minerva.  Discovered in 1965, two of the cornerstones remained in their original positions.  The pedestal carvings depicted the Roman gods, such as  Bacchus and Jupiter and were thought to have been painted.

The bronze head of Sulis Minerva is one of the rarest objects from Roman Britain as there were only two other fragments of its kind.  Discovered in 1727, it is said that it was most likely from the statue of Sulis Minerva that stood in the temple.  Dating back to the first century, there are several layers of bronze gilding applied at various stages over time.

Shortly after the discovery of the first century Roman Baths, John Woods and his son revived the town of Bath into a spa resort once again in the 18th century.  They added to the landscape by building The Royal Crescent’s thirty townhomes were decorated with beautiful Ionic columns and Palladian molding.  Today it is a museum and houses the Royal Crescent Hotel.

The charm of this town is in its Gregorian architecture and the pedestrian square and it is just as I had imagined it would be, thanks to the writings of Jane Austen.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the charming English town of Bath? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my excursion to Bath from London and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Roman Baths, Bath
Abbey Church Yard
Bath, BA1 1LZ
United Kingdom
Telephone:  +44 1225 477785

  • Admission Fee:  £16.50 for adults (18 – 59); £10.25 for children ages 6 -16; children five and under are free; Seniors (65+)  are £14.50
  • Hours:  January to February: Open from 9:30AM to 5PM; March 1 – April 18:  Open from 9AM to 5PM; April 19 – April 22: Open from 9AM to 7PM; April 23 – June 20: Open from 9AM to 5PM; June 21 – August 31: Open from 9AM to 9PM; Open September – October: 9AM to 5PM; November to December: Open 9:30AM to 5PM
  • Amenities:  local guides, museum, restrooms, audioguides, WiFi throughout the site
  • Scenic View:  Upstairs there are stunning views of the baths below.
  • Length of Visit:  2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for walking.  No re-entry is provided. Photographs are permitted. There is no bathing at the baths.

Where to Stay:

The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa
16 Royal Crescent
Bath, BA1 2LS
United Kingdom
Telephone:  +44 1225 823333

Where to Eat:

Sotto Sotto
10 North Parade
Bath, BA2 4AL
United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 1225 330236

What to Eat: 

  • Fish and Chips – fried fish and French fries
  • Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding – usually eaten from noon to five on Sundays
  • Full English Breakfast – includes eggs, sausages, potatoes, mushrooms, blood pudding, tomatoes and toast
  • Pie and Mash – typically a simple steak and kidney pie or pork pies, this is a classic British comfort food served with mashed potatoes and gravy
  • Bangers and Mash – which is sausage served with mashed potatoes and gravy
  • Cockles – a small type of clam
  • Eton Mess – a dessert made of merengue, cream and strawberries
  • Sticky Toffee Pudding – a moist sponge cake baked with dates or raisins and smothered in toffee sauce served with custard or ice cream
  • Afternoon tea – with teacakes, scones, jam and clotted cream as well as champagne and tea
  • Beef Wellington – filet steak covered with pate and wrapped in puff pastry

What to Read:

  • Northanger Abbey, by Jane Austen
  • Bath Tangle, by Georgette Heyer
  • Persuasion, by Jane Austen

Photo Guide to Bath:

  • The Roman Baths
  • The Town of Bath

The Roman Baths of Bath, England

Funerary Statue at Bath, EnglandAncient Coins found in the Roman Baths of Bath, England

A Rick Steves Tour of London, England

The train arrived on time at the Underground Terminal of Westminster Station.  Most everyone departed making their way onto the platform, riding escalators and taking stairs to the busy world above.  I had not yet reached the Thames River, but my heart was pounding in anticipation as I exited the tunnel and the view opened up providing me a glimpse of London’s South Bank.

With its spectacular museums, lavish gardens, notorious theaters and exuberant history, London’s cosmopolitan style and attitude attracts over 27 million visitors each year and is home to over 8 million.

Under the suggestion of Rick Steves, I began my exploration of London at Westminster following the Westminster Walk from his Best European City Walks & Museums guide.  Next, I will visit a couple of museums, take the bus tour around the city and if I have time, cruise down the river Thames.  Earlier that morning, I walked to the Gloucester Road Station to purchase my pass.  The front desk attendant suggested that I stop by The Shard for a spectacular view of the city, which I hoped to fit into my schedule later in the day.

I had plenty of British Pounds to purchase a full day pass which allowed me unlimited rides on the Tube for zones 1 & 2.  I fed the machine and confirmed that I was heading westbound for the Westminster stop.

The “Underground” was not as busy as I had expected at 6:30 AM.  The train approached, opened its sliding doors and reminded passengers to “Mind the Gap” before taking their seats.  I found a spot next to a young mother with her little boy in a stroller, who was eating his morning breakfast.  It was a busy work day with full compartment of business suits and backpacks.  I counted the five stops before hopping off the train and was feeling a sense of excitement to explore London having just read the book, War of the Roses.

The exit led me up to a set of stairs where I found the statue of Boadicea to my right.  She was queen of the Iceni tribe who led an uprising against the Roman Empire in the first century AD.  An unobstructed view of the Parliament buildings as well as Elizabeth Tower stood to the north.  Soaking in my surroundings from the Westminster Bridge, I admired the London Eye, the Thames River and the London Bridge in the distance.

Elizabeth Tower (lovingly named after the current Queen of England) stood shining in the morning sunlight and I waited in anticipation to hear Big Ben toll at the hour.  The structure stands 320 feet high and is connected to the Parliament Buildings, the central meeting places for the British Government.  For years, since the 11th century, when King Canute built a palace here, the Royal Family lived at Parliament until they relocated to Buckingham Palace.

Along the banks of the Thames is the London Eye, built in 2000 and standing 443 feet tall.  There are 32 capsules which hold 26 visitors in each car.  On a clear day, the views from this attraction can reach as far as 26 miles.  The ride from start to finish takes approximately thirty minutes.

I felt a bitter cold wind off of the Thames gently pushing me towards Parliament Square, located across the street from Westminster Abbey.  This quiet park, without a bird to be seen, was lined with statues of both famous Brits like Winston Churchill and David Lloyd George as well as notable world leaders, such as Abraham Lincoln, Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela.  I followed the stone corridor of this lovely park where I found the gorgeous rosette stained glass window of the infamous Westminster Abbey ahead of me.

One of London’s most precious jewels, not only because of its spectacular architecture but its glorious history, is Westminster Abbey.  Edward the Confessor founded the abbey and it is London’s oldest and most important church.  For over ten centuries, the cathedral has been the location for a host of coronations, royal weddings and funerals.  In 1997, Princess Diana’s funeral was held at Westminster Abbey where it was estimated over 3 million were in attendance for the funeral procession, while Will and Kate were married here on April 29th 2011.

Following my map to find Whitehall Street, I realized I had come full circle when I noticed the Westminster public subway stop.  My current route led me to many of London’s government buildings such as the Royal Navy Headquarters and the Ministry of Finance.  Colorful pubs occupied corner spaces along the route and the crowds were starting to grow.

In the distance, I noticed a collection of three monuments, one positioned in the middle of Whitehall.   On the towering white memorial made of marble, is a cenotaph honoring the brave men and women who died during the two Great Wars.   Each year, in November, the Royal Family attends the Remembrance Day service which takes place around this “Glorious Dead” monument.

The large, white, Greek-style structure that occupies a block along Whitehall was once a part of the palatial estate of Henry VIII and the location of King Charles’ execution.  Henry VIII moved out of his Palace of Westminster residence (Parliament) and built this grandiose building which, at one time, extended from Trafalgar Square to Elizabeth’s Tower.  The 1698 fire destroyed most of Henry’s opulent structure, but what remained is the Banqueting House of Whitehall Palace.

Continuing my walk towards Trafalgar Square, I noticed that the Horse Guard station was empty, and within minutes I stood in front of the 170 foot column supporting the statue of Admiral Horatio Nelson.  Credited for his leadership during World War II and the defeat at Waterloo, he died a heroic death in battle.

The square was alive with tourists and commuters passing through to reach their destination.  A line formed at the entrance of the National Museum which had not yet opened.  Attempting to climb one of the four bronze lions, a group of teenagers disregarded the warning signs and placards, capturing photos with their cellular devices.   A light mist of spray clings to my coat and kisses my face as I pass a fountain eager to find the ticket office for the Hop On/Hop Off bus.  A perfect mode of transportation for the day, the double-decker is a quick option for touring of London.  Bringing me back to Trafalgar Square, I will have time to indulge in more attractions, sites and pubs which are waiting to be explored.

Have you had the opportunity to visit London?  Which guidebooks and resources did you reference?  Let me know about your visit by providing a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my walking tour of Westminster in London and wishing you many Happy Travels!

Where to Stay:

The Ambassadors Hotel
16 Collingham Road
Kensington, SW5 0LX
London, United Kingdom
Telephone:  +44 20 7373 1075
Photo Credit:  Ambassadors Hotel London

 

Where to Eat:

Earl’s Court Tavern
Taylor Walker
187 Earl’s Court Road
London, SW5 9RL
United Kingdom
Telephone:  +44 20 7370 2760

Walking Tour Resources: 

Best European City Walks & Museums guide, by Rick Steves

London Telephone Booth

Exploring World Civilizations at the British Museum

I was overwhelmed with excitement as I entered each of the rooms at the British Museum. I have never before seen so much history represented in one place.  Unprepared for the amazing relics and archaeological objects spanning thousands of years, I was excited for the opportunity to glimpse into the lives and cultures of so many ancient civilizations.   Established in 1753, the British Museum is the oldest public museum in the world and in my opinion, one of the most fascinating.

Credited as the first “archeologist”, Roman Queen Helena’s pilgrimage to the Holy Land in the 4th century AD was focused on preserving the sites and relics relating to biblical accounts of the life of Jesus Christ.  It was her desire to protect the Christian items and locations so that others could visit them in the future.

Today, museums such as the British Museum, house spectacular finds through archaeological digs and private collections that span thousands, even millions of years.  Covering the rise and fall of some of the most powerful civilizations such as Egypt, Assyria, Greece and Rome, these insights explain their religious, political and societal beliefs.  From artwork to architecture and skeletons to sarcophagus, visitors have the ability to understand how these societies evolved over many generations.

Ancient Egypt:

The mummies are one of the most popular exhibits among visitors and are located in rooms 61 – 66 upstairs.  On display are some of the various instruments used by embalmers to preserve the bodies before they were entombed.  This floor also houses Coptic art, fancy jewelry and one of my favorite statues, the bronze cat with the gold nose ring.

Entering through the main entrance and arriving into the Grand Court, the Egyptian Exhibit is located to the left of the Reading Room in Room 3.  Displays of large, colossal statues and Egyptian sculptures dominate the space dating from 3000 BC.  One of the most historically significant finds in all of ancient history is the Rosetta Stone.

One of the most visited objects in the British Museum, along with the mummies, is the Rosetta Stone.  Unearthed in the Egyptian desert in 1799, the Stone was used by Francois Champollion, a French scholar, to decipher Egyptian hieroglyphics.  This black slab of rock included three inscriptions in three different languages (Classical Greek and the two forms of ancient Egyptian) which assisted in the decoding of the Egyptian pictographs.  Their biggest breakthrough was when it was discovered that the name of ruler Ptolemy V appeared on the sixth line of the stone.  The Rosetta Stone dates back to 196 BC, made in honor of the coronation of Ptolemy. Large stones, such as this one, would have been displayed in temples all across Egypt and there are another seventeen quite similar that have since been discovered.

Not far from the Rosetta Stone (about 20 steps), is the Limestone False Door and Architrave of Ptahshepses dating back to 2400 BC.  The door as well as the lintel are inscribed with hieroglyphics which tell the life story of a man named Ptahshepses. False doors were similar to our grave markings today, yet they were used as a ceremonial entrance into the room in which the mummified deceased was buried with his belongings.  The purpose of the door was to allow the soul to come and go as it pleased but also used to keep out grave robbers from removing the earthly possessions of the dead.

Towering over the Ancient Egypt complex on the main floor, I easily spotted the Colossal Statue of Ramesses II in the distance.  Ramesses took the throne in 1279 BC and reigned for 66 years.   Known for his building accomplishments erecting temples, tombs, palaces and a large number of statues of himself, it  is debated that he may have been the King of Egypt during the Exodus of Moses.

Weighing in at twenty tons, the full size sculpture stood 8 – 9 feet high.  It was the largest Egyptian sculptures the British had ever seen and only the upper half of Ramesses statue is displayed at the British Museum.  The statue dates back to approximately 1250 BC and was found in the Ramesseum, the pharaoh’s mortuary temple in Thebes.  This memorial complex was built so that Ramesses could be worshiped as a god for many years after his death.

Exiting the Egyptian Room through the door facing the back of the Ramesses statue, there is a set of stairs that leads up to the mummies, coffins and one of the most fascinating displays I had ever seen, the human remains of the Gebelein Man (nicknamed Ginger due to a tuft of reddish hair) a naturally preserved body.

The body was discovered in 1856 in the desert of Egypt in a grave covered by stones.  A combination of elements contributed to the preservation of the human tissue to include the hot sand naturally dehydrating and protecting the body and the additional layer of grave stones may have kept animals away.    Scientists estimate Ginger to have died 5400 years ago, long before the pyramids were erected.  He was found buried with bowls, beads and a flint blade next to his arm.

New technology has brought additional information to light about the death of Ginger.  With digital imagery, it was determined that Ginger was “certainly murdered” and “his injuries suggest he was the victim of a deliberate, violent killing….consistent with a stab wound”.  Additional information states that he was between the ages of 18 and 21 and was “stabbed by a blade of copper or flint at least five inches long.”

Ancient Assyria

Assyria, known today as modern-day Iraq, was a power-house civilization of the Middle East.  Making their way as conquerors and traders, this Semitic culture expanded their dominion in a fierce ruthless manner terrorizing their neighbors from 900 – 600 BC. Some of the most beautiful artwork comes from the Assyrians on display at the British Museum.

Backtracking back to the Rosetta Stone in the Egyptian Gallery in Room 6, there are Two Winged Lions with Human Heads dating back to 870 BC.  Found guarding the Assyrian palace of Ashurnasirpal II at Nimrud was called the Lamassu, the god of protection which defended the king from evil spirits. What makes this statue interesting is that it has 5 legs.  The small marks between the loins of the Lamassu is cuneiform writing.

Passing through the Two Winged Lion entrance, turn right into Room 7, a narrow red hallway leading into a room with brown stoned panels.  The beautifully detailed reliefs would have been painted and varnished, displayed in the throne room of Ashurnasirpal II’s palace.  These intricately carved panels tell the story of Ashurnasirpal’s victories and hail him as the greatest king of the world.

Known to be ruthless in battle, the Assyrians carried their brutality into their leisurely activities as depicted in a set of reliefs in Room 10 labeled the Royal Lion Hunt.   The impressive artwork depicts the horses and dogs preparing for the hunt while lions await unknowingly until the lions are killed by arrows.  Lion hunts were the sport of kings and when wild lions were not available, staged hunts were arranged with animals bred for the fight.   One of the reliefs shows King Ashurbanipal riding in a chariot participating in the hunt. Soon after the king’s death, the civilization of Assyria is overthrown by the Babylonians in 613 BC.

In Room 55, an extraordinary artifact is on display.  Dating between 1500 – 500 BC it is identified as the “Flood Tablet”, which was found in King Ashurbanipal’s library.  While many people are familiar with the story of Noah and the Great Flood, according to this writing, a similar story to the biblical account is referred to as the “Epic of Gilgamesh”.  The gods planned to destroy the world with a flood, so Ut-napshti built a large boat to save his family and every type of animal.    Of course the finding of this documentation in the late 1800’s caused quite a scandal due to the similarity between the Gilgamesh and Noah accounts.

Ancient Greece: 

Visiting Greece last summer, a trip to the Acropolis was one of the highlights of my travels.  I remember standing at the bottom stair leading up towards the Propylaea.  This Panathenaic Way led to the Parthenon, the temple dedicated to Athena, the goddess of wisdom and victory.  Inside, there once stood a colossal statue of her likeness made of gold and ivory, while the exterior was just as extravagant, with columns and colorful relief carvings.

Today, the ninety-two reliefs, known as the Elgin Marbles, are on display at the British Museum.  These metopes, carved out of stone, depict war and battle scenes in elaborate detail. Some of them represent mythological conflict, while others portray actual battles.  While many visitors stroll the exhibit to view the fifth century artwork, many are also intrigued by the political controversy that surrounds the display…should these ancient artifacts stay in London or should they be returned to Greece?

Ancient Rome: 

The Romans embraced many gods from various cultures and celebrated an assortment of beliefs.  From Persia, they adopted the worship of Mithras, or Mithraism which involved a number of initiations and rituals. The Mysteries of Mithras lasted in Rome between the first and fourth centuries so there is limited knowledge about the religion. It was so secretive that there were underground temples.  What remains of this faith are several marble sculptures portraying the god Mithras, including the Statue of Mithras on display at the British Museum.

Dating somewhere around the 2nd century, the beautifully carved stone shows Mithras performing the ritual slaughtering of a bull.  Wearing a Phyrgian cap and trousers, his attire depicts the fashion of the east.  The bull’s blood was said to have had cleansing properties, which would explain the dog and snake licking the blood, while the scorpion is shown attacking the bull’s testicles.

The detail of this sculpture, the flowing skirt and cape, and the folds in the shirt are exquisite.  The sculptor is unknown, but it is one of the most fascinating pieces of Roman art in the museum.

The British Museum collection includes additional artifacts from other cultures around the world. For example, the North American Otter Pipe, found in Ohio dates back to 200 BC – AD 100 or the Shang bronzes from 15=00 BC.  There are modern plaques from Africa, Mayan statues, and the Lewis Chessman found on an Isle in Scotland.  Even the Great Court and Reading Room are both impressive and historical.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the British Museum?  What was your most fascinating memory of your visit?  I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Want to know where to go, eat and stay in London?  Check out more of my recommendations below for a magical experience in London!  Many thanks for exploring the British Museum through my post and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

The British Museum
Great Russell Street
Bloomsbury, London WC1B 3DG, UK
Telephone:  +44 20 7323 8000

  • Admission Fee: There is no fee for visiting the British Museum
  • Hours:  Open daily from 10AM to 5:30PM and open until 8:30PM on Fridays
  • Amenities:  scheduled tours, audio guides are provided in 10 languages, special exhibitions, restaurant, cafes, shops
  • Scenic View:  Photograph the glass ceiling of the round reading room designed by Sidney Smirke
  • Length of Visit:  At least 2 – 3 hours to see the highlights
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for walking, pick up a map of the venue for planning your visit.

Where to Stay:

The Montague on the Gardens
15 Montague Street
London WC1B 5BJ, UK
Telephone:  +44 20 7637 1001

Where to Eat:

Afternoon Tea at The Montague on the Gardens
15 Montague Street
London WC1B 5BJ, UK
Telephone: +44 20 7612 8416

On my first visit, I happened upon the Safari Themed afternoon tea which included an African-themed menu.  I enjoyed a selection of finger sandwiches of African-spiced chicken and apricot, scones baked fresh with Devonshire clotted creme, a giraffe macaron with toasted coconut mouse, banana meringue and a wide variety of teas to include traditional, flavored, aromatic, fruit and green teas.  I couldn’t pass up the Leopard Cocktail made with Amarula cream liquor, decorated with leopard spots and a paw print.

On Sunday, I returned for the Free Flowing Champagne garnished with fresh strawberries.  From 2 to 6, I could enjoy as much champagne as my heart desired along with a wonderful selection of scones, pastries, sandwiches and cakes.

What to Eat: 

  • Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason’s Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon in Piccadilly
  • Bangers and Mash at Mother Mash in Soho
  • Beef Welington at Simpsons on the Strand
  • Cockles, a type of clam, are best tried at Borough Market
  • Crumpets, similar to English Muffins should be ordered at Ask for Janice in Farringdon
  • Eton Mess is an amazing British dessert made of crushed meringue, cream ans strawberries at the National Cafe at the National Gallery
  • Fish & Chips at Poppies Camden in London
  • Full English Breakfast, which also includes blood pudding (a blood sausage) at The Ivy
  • Pie and Mash at the Windmill Mayfair
  • Pimm’s Cup, a gin-based drink made with ginger ale or lemon lime soda, fruit and mint is the official drink of Wimbledon and is best ordered at Lido Cafe Bar in Hyde Park
  • Scones at Gail’s Bakery
  • Scotch Egg is a dish that includes a hard boiled egg wrpeed in sausage meet, breaded and then fried; Try this at Fortnum & Mason’s Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon in Piccadilly
  • Shepard’s Pie is on the menu at The Ivy Restaurant
  • Sticky Toffee Pudding at the Queens Arms in Kensington
  • Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding in Nottinghill at The Windsor Castle
  • Toad in the Hole, a pastry filled with sausage at Bistro Union
  • Victoria Sponge is a vanilla sponge cake filled with jam and whipped cream at the Wallace Collection Museum

What to Read: 

  • A Parcel for Anna Browne by Miranda Dickinson
  • A Week in December by Sebastian Faulks
  • Absolute Beginners by Colin MacInnes
  • Act Like It by Lucy Parker
  • Bridget Jones’s Diary by Helen Fielding
  • London: The Novel by Edward Rutherford
  • My Best Friend’s Girl by Dorothy Kroomson
  • Oliver Twist, by Charles Dickens
  • The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes by Arthur Conan Doyle

Photo Guide to London: 

  • The Lobby of the British Museum
  • Covent Garden Market
  • St. Paul Cathedral from the Restaurant Madison at One New Change, Millenium Bridge or Paternoster Square
  • Summerset House, especially during the Christmas holiday
  • The houses of Notting Hill
  • The architecture of Pancras Renaissance Hotel 
  • Saturday market at Portobello
  • For amazing views, photos from the Coppa Club, close to Tower Bridge
  • The lovely pink cafe in London, Peggy Porschen
  • Panorama of London from Sky Garden Rooftop
  • Street art in Shoreditch
  • Leadenhall Market looks like Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley
  • South Bank for photos of the Thames
  • Panoramic Views of London from the London Eye
  • Saint Aymes Cafe for lovely feminine photos

Exploring London on the Hop On/Hop Off Bus

“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.” – Samuel Johnson

Wellington Arch

The sky was overcast and the Hop On/Hop Off bus was scheduled to arrive at the stop in about ten minutes. I would have hardly noticed the young guy in his mid-twenties, except that I could hear the heavy metal music coming through his ear buds.  Dressed for the cold weather, he wore black boots, dark skinny jeans and a NorthFace Bubble jacket to match.  We were the only two waiting at the stop when the double decker pulled up to the curb.

I boarded the bus, selected a map and headset, taking the stairs to the upper floor.  I felt the hipster close on my heels and noticed plenty of bucket seats available as I reached the top of the staircase.  Finding the perfect row with an unobstructed view, I prepared myself for the ride, adjusting my headset in preparation for the self-guided tour.   As the bus pulled away from the pavement near Trafalgar Square, I heard the mystery man’s voice welcome us aboard the bus, introducing himself as our tour guide, Bobby.

Passing by Hyde Park, Bobby explained that this beautiful piece of land was once the property of Westminster Abbey.  Stocked with wild boar, deer and bull, King Henry the VIII acquired the land and converted it into his private hunting ground in 1536.

Several landmarks within Hyde Park are worth a visit, including the Wellington Arch.  This beautiful monument was commissioned by King George IV in the 1820s and is located at Hyde Park Corner. Visitors can reach the first floor of the arch to learn more about its history and proceed to the fourth level for spectacular views of London’s skyline.

Statue of Achilles at The Royal Park’s Hyde Park

Stretching from Westminster to Kensington, Hyde Park was opened to the public by King Charles I in the early 1600s.   Over the years, the lineage of royal families had made many updates and improvements, including a lighted byway, an artificial lake, several statues and a memorial fountain to the late Princess Diana.

The Achilles statue was the first to be erected in Hyde Park in 1822.  Commissioned by the Ladies of England, an upper class society in London, its purpose was to commemorate the first Duke of Wellington, Arthur Wellesley.  Reaching a height of eighteen feet, the monument caused quite a controversy when the nude statue was unveiled.  With such a reaction, the fig leaf was added shortly after the bronze was installed.

Children rode bikes along the paved path while maintenance workers took advantage of the beautiful weather for a bit of yard work.  Pedestrians, bundled up in warm coats with mittens and hats explored the afternoon away from the city, enjoying the fountains, monuments and the colors of early spring.

Hyde Park seemed to stretch for miles as we passed the Joy of Life fountain.  In the 1860s, this area, known as Park Lane, was once a Victorian sunken garden, a popular site for locals and guests.  Our guide explained that the beautiful bronze Huxley-Jones water feature dates back to 1963, replacing the previous Boy and Dolphin Fountain.  The whimsical fount of children playing in the pool sits amidst 60,000 daffodils that bloom in the beauty of springtime.

Within minutes, the bus reached a gorgeous, gated entrance which could only be described as befitting of British royalty.  In the distance, the Victoria Memorial stood guard to the entrance of Buckingham Palace and its surrounding gardens.  The memorial, made of marble and gilt bronze, was built to commemorate the rule of Queen Victoria. The statuesque monument was designed by Thomas Brock and was unveiled to the public in 1909.

Our tour continued passing the Palace of Westminster before crossing the bridge towards the northern part of the city.   The sun was struggling to shine through the cloudy sky, but the cold temperatures continued to rise on this brisk, blustery day, providing much needed warmth for the double decker bus.

The Palace of Westminster dominated the banks of the River Thames and has been the governmental seat of Houses of Parliament (the Lords and the Commons) for over 500 years.   The large, gorgeous neo-Gothic structure was once the home of the royal family until a fire in 1834 forced the family to move their home to nearby Whitehall Palace.  Westminster Hall and Jewel Tower, dating back to 1097, are what remain of the original palace after the fire.

There is no doubt that Big Ben is the superstar of the Houses of Parliament.  Located at the north end of the grand structure, the famous bell resides in the clock tower standing 316 feet tall.  While the five bells of the Westminster Chimes strike every fifteen minutes, Big Ben continues its loyal keeping of time, tolling upon the hour.

Royal Courts of Justice

Seeming more like a castle or a cathedral, the Royal Courts of Justice reviews civil matters such as divorce, civil liabilities and libel.  Built in the late 1880’s, the sprawling, Victorian Gothic contains one thousand rooms. Standing at the center of this magnificent architectural masterpiece, I admired the spires, rounded turrets and stained glass rosette, attempting to count the number of windows, both great and small.  The public are permitted to enter the courtrooms to observe the civil hearings, while criminal cases are decided at the Old Bailey, a short walk east of the Royal Courts.

I have fond memories as a child watching my great grandmother enjoy a cup of Twinings tea.  Sarah Hodgson came to the United States from Manchester, England aboard the Caronia in 1921.  I enjoyed hearing about her life as a child and loved sharing in her afternoon tea rituals.  I was able to hop off at the nearby stop for a visit to Twinings on Strand.  It was a memorable experience and an homage to my great grandmother.

The cheery entrance into the Twinings store on Strand reminded me of Christmas with its colorful bulbs flanking the simple, white Romanesque columns on each side.  Gorgeous mahogany doors were an added element of elegance to the store made famous for selling some of the best teas in the world.  Twinings dates back to 1706 when it was first called the Golden Lion and a long list of poets, writers and artists have graced through its doors.

The overwhelming, sensational scent of tea drew me in and I was captivated by the store’s regal interior.  A stunning variety of teas were displayed upon the dark wooded shelves such as Breakfast Blend, Chamomile and the famous Earl Grey tea.  I left Twinings with a few souvenirs and a memory I would cherish for a lifetime.

Fleet Street Sculpture

With shopping bags in tow, I came across this most spectacular, sinister dragon, standing upright on Fleet Street.  Lurking between the divide of the City of London and Westminster, this Temple Bar Memorial dates back to 1880, replacing the former archway that was designed by architect Christopher Wren.

Many playwrights, publishers and authors began their careers here on Fleet Street after the city’s first printing press was introduced in the late 15th century.  With the increase of publishing, large newspapers set up shop here until the late 1980s, when many of them closed and relocated outside of the city proper.

St. Paul’s Cathedral

St. Paul’s Cathedral was my first glimpse of London when, as a young girl, I awoke early to watch the televised wedding ceremony of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer.  I remember the train of Lady Diana’s gorgeous gown as she slowly walked down the aisle to recite her marriage vows.  Not only was it the wedding of the century, Americans were introduced to the British monarchy, architecture and the belief that fairytales can come true.

The original St. Paul’s Cathedral dates back to 604 AD, but it is Christopher Wren’s English baroque architectural masterpiece built after the Great Fire of London that draws thousands of visitors each year.  St. Paul’s impressive triple-built dome is one of the largest in the world, second only to that of St. Peter’s in Rome.

I couldn’t wait to enter St. Paul’s Cathedral and looked forward to the scenic view from its dome.  With a total of 528 stairs to reach the top, I was happy to learn that there were three galleries to explore along the way.  Within minutes, I had miraculously reached the halfway mark of my journey looking down at the parquet flooring and circular starburst from the Whispering Gallery.  With the power of acoustics, even a whisper is said to carry from one side of the dome to the other.

A shorter trek of stairs leads to a platform on the dome’s exterior for a view of the city referred to as the Stone Gallery, but it’s the tight, winding black staircase that reaches an additional outdoor viewing arena with spectacular 365 degree views of the city of London.  Referred to as the Golden Gallery, this is the highest point of the dome reaching 365 feet in height.

The wind begins to pick up making it the perfect time to exit the viewing area and make the descent back down to the nave.  A group of schoolchildren are gathered under the dome, so I slip out of the exit and wait for the next Hop On/Hop Off bus to transport me back to the north side of the Thames.

I was surprised at how quickly the red double decker bus arrived on Whitehead Street.  Earlier that morning I had referenced Rick Steve’s City Walk of Westminster before the Horse Guards had arrived at their post.  The horses stand on each side of the arch which leads to the Household Cavalry of the Queen.  I had strolled through the courtyard prior to the Changing of the Guard Ceremony at 11 AM, deciding instead to complete the walk and tour London on the Hop On/Hop Off bus.  I was determined to wake early the next morning for the ceremony in all of its pomp and circumstance as the bus arrived to the stop where I first hopped on.

What is your favorite way to explore London?  Walking or by bus?  I would love to hear about your London favorites and recommendations for places to stay, eat and visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  I have provided the contact information for the British sites I explored on my bus ride.  Many thanks for reading about my beautiful day of touring London and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Hyde Park
London W2 ZUH, UK

Buckingham Palace
Westminster, London, SW1A 1AA UK
Phone:  +44 303 123 7300

  • Admission Fee (Royal Day Out):  £45.00 for adults (17 – 59); £24.50 for children ages 6 -16; children five and under are free; Seniors (60+)  are £40.00
  • Hours:  Open July to September:  Open from 9:30AM to 5:15PM
  • Amenities:  Access to 19 State Rooms, special exhibits, multimedia guide in nine languages; walkthrough  of the gardens, royal stables and carriages, local guides
  • Scenic View:  Beautiful gardens and gorgeous staterooms
  • Length of Visit:  5 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for walking.  According to the site, re-admission is free for a year should you treat your ticket as a donation.

Palace of Westminster
Westminster, London, SW1A 0AA UK
Phone:  + 44 20 7219 3000

  • Admission (Houses of Parliament Audio Tour):  £18.50 for adults (17 – 59); £7
  • Hours:  Open Wednesday to Friday between December 21 to January 4, 2019 and every Saturday until May 25, 2019
  • Amenities:  Audio tour in 9 languages; access to the Commons Chamber and the Lords Chamber, following footsteps of the Queen at the State Opening and visit Westminster Hall which is over 1000 years old.
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 1.5 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for walking.

Royal Courts of Justice
Strand, London, WC2A 2LL, UK

Excursion booked through Strawberry Tours: 

  • Admission Fee:  £12
  • Hours: 9AM to 4PM
  • Length of Visit:  2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  The Royal Courts of Justice only deal with civil issues. Additional attractions inside and outside of the court include the Bear Gardens, the Painted Room, the Crypt, the Great Hall, and the sculpture/costume room.  Visitors are only permitted to sit in the final two rows of the court room.   Dress conservatively and avoid wearing jeans, t-shirts or any revealing clothing,  You must bow your head to the judge when both entering and leaving the court room.  Do not enter any rooms marked as “In Camera,” “In Private,” or any other rooms with clouded-out windows.

Twinings
216 Strand, London, WC2R 1AP, UK
Phone:  +44 207 353 3511

St. Paul’s Cathedral
St. Paul’s Churchyard, London, EC4M 8AD, UK
Phone: +44 20 7246 8350

  • Admission Fee: £18.00 for adults (19 – 59); £8 for children ages 6 -17; children five and under are free; Seniors (60+)  are £16.00
  • Hours:  Open Monday to Saturday from 8:30AM to 4:30PM, last admission at 4 for sightseeing and 4:15 for the galleries;
  • Amenities:  multimedia guides and guided tours; dome accessibility
  • Scenic View:  Amazing views from the gallery and the dome
  • Length of Visit:  2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Wear comfortable shoes for walking, especially if you enter the dome; photography is limited and not permitted inside of the Cathedral.

Horse Guards
Whitehall, London, SW1A 2AX, UK

Where to Stay:

The Clarence
53 Whitehall
London, SW1A 2HP, UK
Telephone:  +44 20 7930 4808

Where to Eat:

Boyd’s Grill & Wine Bar
8 Northumberland Avenue
London, WC2N 5BY, UK
Telephone:  + 44 20 7808 3344

The restaurant is absolutely gorgeous and I started out with the Heritage Tomato Salad of buffalo mozzarella, tomato powder and basil oil.  For my entree, I could not pass up the Beer Battered Fish with triple cooked chips, crushed peas and tartar sauce.  Malt vinegar was provided at the table.

What to Eat: 

  • Fish and Chips – fried fish and French fries
  • Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding – usually eaten from noon to five on Sundays
  • Full English Breakfast – includes eggs, sausages, potatoes, mushrooms, blood pudding, tomatoes and toast
  • Pie and Mash – typically a simple steak and kidney pie or pork pies, this is a classic British comfort food served with mashed potatoes and gravy
  • Bangers and Mash – which is sausage served with mashed potatoes and gravy
  • Cockles – a small type of clam
  • Eton Mess – a dessert made of merengue, cream and strawberries
  • Sticky Toffee Pudding – a moist sponge cake baked with dates or raisins and smothered in toffee sauce served with custard or ice cream
  • Afternoon tea – with teacakes, scones, jam and clotted cream as well as champagne and tea
  • Beef Wellington – filet steak covered with pate and wrapped in puff pastry

Where to Drink:

Eclipse Bar 
158 Old Brompton Road
South Kensington, London, SW5 0BA England
Telephone:  +44 20 7259 2577

What to Read:

  • The Light Over London, by Julia Kelly
  • London: The Biography, by Peter Ackroyd
  • The Five, by Hallie Rubenhold
  • London: A Travel Guide Through Time, by Dr. Matthew Green
  • The Diaries of Samuel Pepys

Photo Guide to London:

  • Inside the Natural History Museum
  • Oxford Street and Regent Street – lovely street photos
  • Neal’s Yard – colorful surroundings
  • Notting Hill and Ladbroke Square- upscale architecture
  • Portobello Street and Hillgate Place – pastel colored flats
  • Leadenhall Market
  • Peggy Porschen Cakes
  • Coppa Club
  • Churchill Arms Pub
  • Tower Bridge
  • St. Paul’s Cathedral
  • Millennium Bridge

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Exploring London and Paris through Gate 1 Travel

Booking a last minute trip to London and Paris through Gate 1 Travel, this vacation would include many first experiences for me.  l would finally be exploring two of the most popular travel destinations for the first time and managing my travel through an independent tour company.   I could not pass up this deal where I would spend three days in London and then three days in Paris for under $1400, including round trip flight from Columbus, a flight to Paris from London, transportation to and from the airport, three excursions and the additional single supplement fee, which is usually an outrageous add-on.

For London, my tours included bus transportation throughout the city, a ride along the Thames and a day touring Bath, Windsor and Stonehenge.

In Paris, I booked the Hop On/Hop Off bus which also included a river cruise down the Seine, a night tour of Paris and a day in Versailles.  Granted, I am taking my chances by traveling in February for the weather, but I am up for the challenge.

The day of departure arrived and for starters, the Delta flight coming in from JFK was delayed.  I would not be able to make my connection.  The gate agent stated that I would need to come back tomorrow and that they would rebook me for an earlier flight.  In hopes that they would help me reach my destination by tomorrow morning, I explained that I was traveling light with a carry on and wanted to see if there were other flights traveling to Heathrow.  I was so happy when Rodney was able to reroute me through Atlanta.  The flight was currently boarding and was only a couple of gates down from where I was standing.  I would be arriving an hour and a half later, so I called Gate 1 Travel and they made arrangements to have a driver pick me up at my rescheduled time.

Arriving in Atlanta, I needed to reach Terminal E and we had arrived in Terminal B.  Everything was running smoothly to reach my gate in Atlanta and shortly after taking a seat in the concourse, Zone 3 is called and I board the plane, eager to find my seat.  I am so relaxed and looking forward to take off.  What a crazy start to my trip, but it is all working out in my favor.

I decided to watch The Girl on the Train and soon after leaving Atlanta, I was provided dinner which includes pasta, shrimp cocktail, salad, cheese and crackers and a brownie.  I ordered a couple of glasses of white wine (included with the international flight) in hopes that I will be able to fall asleep sooner. Unfortunately, it seemed to have the opposite effect and I could not manage to find a comfortable position.   After the movie, I played a couple of games of Bingo and finally rested before I realized that daylight was slipping through the window.

This was possibly one of the worst landings I have ever experienced, not by any fault of the pilot, but apparently we had wind gusts of 30 to 40 miles per hour.  I was so happy to be on the ground and ready to bolt for ground transportation.

Customs and immigration took less than ten minutes and I was in search of the driver, so kindly arranged by Gate 1 after reaching baggage claim.   I finally found Fernandes after searching through a crowd of hand-held signs and learned that he would be picking up additional passengers to include a newlywed couple and another solo traveler.

I was so happy that I packed my winter coat, scarf and umbrella at the last minute with a forecast of rain, rain and more rain.  Our driver explained that the winds were exceptionally strong and unusual for this time of year.  Leaving the Heathrow Airport, the scenery from the airport to the West End was grey and industrial.  I would be staying at the charming Ambassador Hotel for the next three days.

I checked in at the front desk and learned that I was too early to enter my room, and that the hotel staff was working quickly to help accommodate a large group that was waiting in the lobby.  I was asked to take a seat and they would call me as soon as my room had been cleaned.  I picked up a few brochures and reviewed some of the additional tours available and within minutes I was dropping off my luggage and heading out into London to find a bank to exchange some money,  Off to find a place for Fish and Chips and a pint.  Welcome to London.

Trying to reach the Thames River where I could reach Westminster Abbey, somehow, I managed to walk in a circle in an hour’s time.  I’m not sure if I was lost because I had not had enough sleep or of it was merely because I could not read the map.  I found the MetroBank where I exchanged $100 for British Pounds (72 BPs to be exact) and by now  starting to feel hungry.  I asked the bank attendant if she could direct me towards a restaurant with fish and chips, which was easy enough.  Just around the corner is the Earl’s Court Tavern Taylor Walker and within 20 seconds I am entering the pub.  I placed my order for a pint of Punk IPA and the Ultimate Fish and Chips, not settling for anything less than ultimate on this vacation.

Either I was extremely hungry, or this was the best fish I had ever tasted.  The batter was perfectly crisp and warming me up on the inside.  I had as much malt vinegar as I wanted for drowning my fish and fries, careful not to contaminate my peas.  My bill came to a little over 18 BPs without the tip and the pub began to fill up for happy hour just as I was ready to leave.

Exiting the pub, the wind had picked up and my hair was flying in every direction possible. The sky was spitting rain and I was being pelted by dirt and any type of debris that could have been picked up in 30 degree winds.  I thought it best to turn in early and reach my hotel before dusk.

There were several apartments and pubs where the local police were assisting with flying debris from balconies and windowsills.  I was ready for a great night’s sleep so I could wake early to watch the sunrise down at the Thames.  The weather was once again calling for rain, so I would be prepared with my raincoat, umbrella and new pair of wellies.

I arrived at the hotel, unpacked my belongings and turned on the television, which is something I do not typically do on holiday.   Flipping through channels, I happened upon the British Bravo television show of the Ladies of London, where I watched a couple of episodes back to back.  Seriously, now I will need to find the Eclipse Bar so I can order a watermelon martini and isn’t Sophie the most amazing Brit with her fabulous hair?

Needing to have at least a couple of hours of sleep before the early dawn, I finally switched off the telly and feeling a bit knackard (tired), I enjoyed an amazing night of restful slumber.  I can’t wait to explore London tomorrow!

Have you been to London?  What fun “touristy” things did you attempt during your visit?  I would love to hear all about your adventure if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my first day (short as it was) in London and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Watch Ladies of London on the local television station!

Check out my later posts for a list of amazing attractions in London…

Where to Stay:

The Ambassadors Hotel
16 Collingham Road
Kensington, SW5 0LX
London, United Kingdom
Telephone:  +44 20 7373 1075
Photo Credit:  Ambassadors Hotel London

Where to Eat:

Earl’s Court Tavern
Taylor Walker
187 Earl’s Court Road
London, SW5 9RL
United Kingdom
Telephone:  +44 20 7370 2760

I ordered the Fish and Chips and a local beer for dinner.

What to Eat: 

  • Fish and Chips – fried fish and French fries
  • Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding – usually eaten from noon to five on Sundays
  • Full English Breakfast – includes eggs, sausages, potatoes, mushrooms, blood pudding, tomatoes and toast
  • Pie and Mash – typically a simple steak and kidney pie or pork pies, this is a classic British comfort food served with mashed potatoes and gravy
  • Bangers and Mash – which is sausage served with mashed potatoes and gravy
  • Cockles – a small type of clam
  • Eton Mess – a dessert made of merengue, cream and strawberries
  • Sticky Toffee Pudding – a moist sponge cake baked with dates or raisins and smothered in toffee sauce served with custard or ice cream
  • Afternoon tea – with teacakes, scones, jam and clotted cream as well as champagne and tea
  • Beef Wellington – filet steak covered with pate and wrapped in puff pastry

Where to Drink:

Eclipse Bar 
158 Old Brompton Road
South Kensington, London, SW5 0BA England
Telephone:  +44 20 7259 2577

What to Read:

  • The Light Over London, by Julia Kelly
  • London: The Biography, by Peter Ackroyd
  • The Five, by Hallie Rubenhold
  • London: A Travel Guide Through Time, by Dr. Matthew Green
  • The Diaries of Samuel Pepys

Photo Guide to London:

  • Inside the Natural History Museum
  • Oxford Street and Regent Street – lovely street photos
  • Neal’s Yard – colorful surroundings
  • Notting Hill and Ladbroke Square- upscale architecture
  • Portobello Street and Hillgate Place – pastel colored flats
  • Leadenhall Market
  • Peggy Porschen Cakes
  • Coppa Club
  • Churchill Arms Pub
  • Tower Bridge
  • St. Paul’s Cathedral
  • Millennium Bridge