At dawn, I caught my first glimpse of the beautiful island of St. Thomas with its sailboats and yachts in the harbor. A softness settled over the tranquil Caribbean Sea as the cruise ship approached the dock. The morning chill would soon be replaced by the heat of the sun rewarding us with another tropical day in paradise. Nestled in the cove of Charlotte Amalie, the ship had soon docked at Havensight, only a mile’s walk east of town.
Soon after the ship was tied up and the gangway set out on the dock, I grabbed my belongings and set off towards the village of Charlotte Amalie. The large shopping plaza, located between Post Office and Market squares, offers duty-free liquor, European imports and souvenirs for passengers and crew. Convenient for passengers who prefer to remain close to the harbor, I prefer to shop in town where prices are discounted at a higher rate.
After passing the market at the port, the start of my walk was hardly picturesque with older, industrial buildings lining the roadway. Yet within minutes, approaching Yacht Haven Grande, I explored several upscale shops and restaurants. Luxury cabin cruisers were docked along this popular plaza, ten minutes from the center of town.
The wooden boardwalk soon evolved into a concrete stretch of walkway passing the picturesque cove. With extraordinary views of the nearby islands, sailboats and working boats anchored nearby. One of sixty-eight islands that comprise the US Virgin Islands, St. Thomas is the largest of the four islands that are inhabited.
The sun burned off the last of the morning fog and the view stretched out for miles. A cool breeze masked the 95 degree heat as the walkway narrowed and curved towards the oceanfront village of Charlotte Amalie.
Before the US Virgin Islands were sold to the US, the islands were settled by the Danes in the 17th century. The final stretch of my walk into town was the Legislature Building on the left and the Virgin Islands Museum. The beautiful museum, originally the 17th century Fort Christian, is the island’s oldest building in continuous use. Converted into a jail, a church town hall, courthouse and governor’s residence, this museum displays the history of St. Thomas from the Stone Age to present.
Approaching the charming center of Charlotte Amalie, I immediately noticed the second story restaurant, Bumpa’s, with a spectacular view of the cove. Ordering a drink, I found the perfect 2-seater table to take in the picturesque view and map out my tour of the town. The cobalt waters and small boats bobbing along the bay tempted me to stay for the view, but I was excited to explore and learn more about the island’s history.
Stepping out of the restaurant, I found Dronningens Gade (Main Street) where numerous shops stood along the alleyway. Store attendants were standing outside offering discounted rates on jewelry and promised the best deals on the island.
After losing my way for a few minutes, I eventually reached a set of stairs that led me to Hotel 1829. Built as a residence for a French Sea Captain, this former home is now a hotel. Walking towards the entrance, I learned that there was a wedding taking place inside and it was closed for the private event.
Directional signs pointed me towards the scenic attractions I had planned to visit. Looking out into the ocean, I noticed a small clearing in the trees that framed the port of St. Thomas and its beautiful harbor. A set of steps, known as the 99 Steps, continued up the hill. Similar to the stairs I had seen in San Juan, these were also made from the stone ballasts once used to balance the load of old sailing ships.
The island is rich with pirate history so I was excited to visit Blackbeard’s Castle. Originally built by the Danes in 1679, the property, which is now a hotel, was a supposed location where Blackbeard would hang out on occasion.
The Skytsborg Tower sits on five acres, referred to as “The Williamsburg of the Caribbean”. Built in the 17th century this amazing stone structure by the Danes, offers a spectacular view of the harbor.
Making my descent back into town, I stopped to admire “The Three Rebel Queens of the Virgin Islands Fountain”. Unveiled in 2005, this beautiful monument created by Richard Hallier, commemorates the Fireburn Revolt. The Labor Riot, led by Queen Mary, Queen Agnes and Queen Mathilda, started out as a peaceful protest on the island of St. Croix due to small wages and difficult work conditions. Rumors began to circulate within the group that a laborer had been killed in police custody which led to the rioters looting the town and setting fire to the buildings and plantations. The three women were imprisoned as a result of the destruction and are represented in the sculpture carrying a lantern, torch and harvesting tool.
Continuing down the walkway towards town was the Crown House, a vibrant yellow colorful house with purple shutters came into view. This beautiful structure was built in the mid 1800s as the home of the island’s governor, Peter von Scholten. Designed in the style of West Indian architecture, it is currently a private residence.
In the heat of the day, the stroll back to the ship brought me to the Yacht Haven Grande once again. I took a seat on the patio at The Fat Turtle, facing the yachts and enjoyed a drink before checking out Paradise Point.
I decided to ride the cable car to the top of Paradise Point to have a couple of drinks and enjoy the view of the harbor. Although I had the option to take a taxi to the top, I paid the $21 for the St. Thomas Skyride. Boarding the gondola, the weather was just as perfect as the view. I could see the cruise ships and yachts docked in their assigned slips and all of the anchored boats and sailboats dotting the harbor. There were islands as far as the eye could see.
At Paradise Point, there was a shop that sold treasures from a sunken ship that was recently discovered. I had an interesting conversation with one of the divers and checked out the artifacts. I was hoping to take the 1/4-mile trail for views of St. Croix, but the trail was closed due to the previous week’s weather. Instead, I took a seat at Bailey’s Bushwacker overlooking the harbor and placed my order for the local Bushwacker and Key Lime drink. The Bushwacker is made up of 1 oz of the following: Pusser’s Rum (suggested), Vodka, Kahlua, Bailey’s Irish Cream, Amaretto, Frangelico and Crème de Cacao. That’s a lot of alcohol in this tiny, but yummy drink topped with whipped cream and a cherry on top, After a couple of Bushwackers, it was time to call it a day.
Do you have a favorite Caribbean port? I would love to hear about your preferred island and what activities or attractions you prefer. Just leave a comment below! Happy Travels!
What to See and What to Do:
Blackbeard’s Castle aka Skytsborg Tower:
Lille Taarne Gade
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands
Telephone: 340 776 1234
If you would like to check out the attractions in Charlotte Amalie, download the Self Guided Downtown Historic Tour and Charlotte Amalie Map from www.virginislandsthisweek.com.
September 6, 2017 Update: This site is CLOSED due to the destruction of Hurricane Irma. A re-opening date is not available at this time.
Villa Notman in Kongens Quarter: next door to Blackbeard’s Castle
September 6, 2017 Update: This site is CLOSED at due to the destruction of Hurricane Irma. A re-opening date is not available at this time.
St. Thomas Skyride:
9617 Estate Thomas
St. Thomas, VI 00802
Phone: 340 774 9809
- Admission Fee: $21 for Adults, $10.50 for children 12 and under; children under the age of 5 are FREE.
- Hours: Open Monday from 9AM to 4PM, on Tuesday from 9AM to 5PM and on Wednesdays from 9AM to 9PM. Hours may vary depending on when ships are docked in the port of St. Thomas.
- Amenities: Restaurant, Tram, Shopping Deck, Sundeck, Dining Room, Patio, Harbor Terrace, The Nest, a reception room for events.
- Scenic View: Breathtaking views of St. Thomas’ Harbor from Paradise Point
- Length of Visit: 1 to 2 hours
- Tips for Your Visit: You can also drive or hail a taxi to the top of Paradise Point.
Where to Stay:
Margaritaville Vacation Club by Wyndham – St. Thomas
6080 Estate Smith Bay
St. Thomas, 00802, US Virgin Islands
Telephone: 340 775 8300
Where to Eat:
Bumpa’s
38-A Waterfront Hwy
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands
The Fat Turtle is now permanently closed
Yacht Haven Grande
St. Thomas, USVI 00802
Phone: 340 714 3566
What to Eat:
- Bull Foot Soup – also known as cow heel soup, it is made from the heel of a cow, vegetables and local spices
- Conch
- Fungi – Polenta made from ground cornmeal, Caribbean-style
- Johnny Cakes – snack made from flour, butter and sugar
- Kallaloo Soup – similar to gumbo, this soup is made from fish, greens, onion, okra and local spices
- Lobster
- Pate – similar to empanadas; dough filled with chicken, fish or beef
- Roti – flatbread wraps filled with meat or vegetables
What to Read:
- Caribbean: A Novel, by James Michener
- Right Place, Wrong Time by Judith Arnold
- Land of Love and Drowning: a novel, by Tiphanie Yanique
Photo Guide for St. Thomas
- St. Thomas Ride Paradise for spectacular views of Charlotte Amalie
- Megan’s Bay for pristine beaches
- 99 steps
- Government House
- Coki Beach for corals and amazing underwater life
- Secret Harbour for squid, turtles and barracuda
- Drake’s Bench for panoramic views
- Brewer’s Beach Bay for viewing airplanes
- Blackbeard’s Castle
The St. Thomas Harbor
The Yachts in St. Thomas
A View of the Ship from Town
The Islands Surrounding St. Thomas
Panoramic View of Charlotte Amalie and the St. Thomas Harbor
The exciting view of St. Thomas from Paradise Point
The cable cars on the St. Thomas Skyview Ride
The Carnival Liberty as seen from Paradise Point
The Port of St. Thomas
Drinks at Bumpa’s
Approaching the end of my walk, I came upon an amazing artistic installation designed by Andy Rosen, a South Portland artist. Titled, “Unpack”, the display was created from fake fur, PVC pipe, foam, and aluminum piping. According to Rosen’s website, “The work imagines a pack of once domesticated dogs turned wild and abandoned on a pier waiting for their “masters” to return.”
