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Category Archives: Turkey

The Theater of Miletus

26 September 202317 March 2025

+DSC_1053, Approaching Miletus

On a tour of Turkey, our group made a quick stop at Turkmen Carpets where we learned how carpets were made.  I saw, first-hand, the exquisite work that was put into themcreation of these carpets by some of the local weavers before we boarded the tour bus for our next location, Miletus.

The archaeological site of Miletus, a once prosperous Turkish city, was one of the principal Ionian cities of Asia Minor.  It was also a stop on Apostle Paul’s third missionary journey.   As our coach approached the site, we noticed the outer wall of the theater, visible from the tour bus and a large space of hewn stone.  It was hard to believe that at one time, Miletus was the wealthiest of all Greek cities during the Hellenistic era.

+DSC_1054, Theater, Miletus

The theater is only one stop on  our trip to Miletus.  This large structures is similar to our theatrical stages of today and was built into a hill between the Bay of Lions and the Theater Harbor.  Sixty rows of seats climb to the top with a seating capacity of 15,000 spectators.  Construction began in the 4th century BC but improvements were made under the direction of Emperor Trajan.  The third level was later added with ornate decorations to the columns representing hunting scenes with the god Eros.

According to historian Josephus, there was a Greek inscription on the fifth row that read, “For the Jews and the God-fearers.” It was a reminder of Rome’s “tolerance of the Jews” that resided in Miletus and were permitted to attend the theater.

+DSC_1055, Grand Theatre, Miletus

We climbed up to the seats which would have been reserved for the upper class in the first few rows.  I could clearly see the three sections of the Roman theatre that included the backstage area, additional seating arrangements for the audience and the orchestra.  The productions would have been nothing less than extravagant and the acoustics, spectacular.

+DSC_1056, The Royal Box of the Theatre, Miletus

Looking into the stadium, there were four columns that seemed set apart from the general population’s seating area.  Known as the “Royal Box”, it was located in the center of the first few rows and was designated as an exclusive box for the emperors.  The columns were used to drape a covering over the area to shade the royals from the inclement weather and heat of the sun.

+DSC_1057, The Lion's Paw on the Bleachers, Miletus

An interesting feature of the Miletus theater were the lion paws on the outer edge of the benched seats.  Lions were symbols of strength  and royalty back in the ancient days and the ornate design seemed to suggest that this was once a flourishing city.

+DSC_1058, awning attachments during rain or high sun

Even the small details that our tour guide pointed out were absolutely fascinating.  For example, taking a closer look at the stone platform designated for the Emperor and his family, we could  see the awning attachments.

+DSC_1059, Looking up into the high seats of the Miletus Theatre

Gazing up towards the high seats of the Miletus Theater, I could clearly see the third row addition.  The cave-like entrances provided a way in and out of the theater.  The added space would have also minimized the interaction between the upper and lower class.

+DSC_1060, Leaving the Theater towards the ruins

Just as the spectators would have left the theater, we made our way out towards the public structures of this well-preserved archaeological site.  Our guide pointed out some of the major points of interest, but with such little time, we could only see some of these ruins from afar.  There was so much to explore in the town of Miletus.

Have you traveled to Miletus?  What were some of the places that interested you?  I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my excurstion to Miletus!  Wishing you many Happy Travels!

To learn more about the archaeological site of Miletus, check out my recent blog post, The Baths of Miletus.

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Baths of Miletus

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Bodrum: Relaxation and Retail Therapy

24 April 20233 May 2025

We slept in late after a long day of travel and enjoying the pier for a swim and some sunbathing.  It was looking as though we would have another perfect day to spend on the water at our resort home in Bodrum.  We ate a hearty breakfast and then strolled the ten minute walk where we found some chairs and umbrellas to protect us from the hot sun.

We set out our belongings and carefully eased into the water from the ladder on the pier.  We floated, swam and failed to improve our artistic swimming skills, though we did try.  We took to the Aegean Sea which was crystal clear.  Some of us snorkeled, while others went back to sunbathing.  We couldn’t seem to stay out of the water for long and eventually worked up an appetite.

We had lunch at the outdoor restaurant and decided to take a walk through the maze of streets within the community.  Houses of brick and stone were built along steep cliffs with gardens of tropical flowers as well as petunias in flower boxes and hanging baskets.

What I found most intriguing as we passed each of the homes was that they were decorated with a symbol that resembled an eye.  I had first seen it in Istanbul on key chains and jewelry, but hadn’t taken much notice until it began appearing on street number signs and embedded in walkways and doorframes.

The Nazar Boncuk, or “Evil Eye”, is said to protect a person from an evil glare.  The superstition dates back to the ancient Greeks who believed that receiving the malevolent stare would cause injury or misfortune.  Since the look could take place even when the innocent person is unaware, there was a need to protect oneself from this supernatural force.  The Nazar Boncuk reflects off the bad energy back onto the person who is inflicting the negativity towards another.  This symbol is often hung throughout homes, offices and cars in the form of jewelry or ornaments.

We returned back to the house to take a car into the casual town of Bodrum.  We started out strolling the streets, looking at menus along the way in search of seafood.  In Turkey, most families will dine late at night for their final meal of the day, even as late as 10PM.  Since we had plenty of time to explore the town, we got lost along the bustling maze.  Beautiful homes hung to the cliffs, many whitewashed with clay-tiled roofs and accented with colorful bougainvillea.

After dining at Onikon Beach and Restaurant, we decided to shop for clothes and souvenirs.  The shopping district was full of unique gifts and familiar boutiques.  From inexpensive Turkish lanterns to luxurious carpets and towels, there were so many great products to purchase.  I had such a difficult time choosing which items to buy, so I selected several:  Turkish Delight, ceramic bowls, Evil Eye pendants and Raki.

With our hands full and wallets growing smaller, we were ready to head back home for a quick dip in the pool and another day to explore Bodrum.

Have you visited Bodrum, Turkey along the coast?  I would love to hear about the places you visited, restaurants where you dined and shops that you absolutely loved if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my amazing adventure in Bodrum and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Explore the seaside shopping area of Bodrum

Where to Stay:

METT Hotels and Beach Resorts, Bodrum
Heramton Cove, Eskicesme Mahallesi
Haramton Sokak, Degirmenler Mevkii
48400 Bodrum City/Mugla, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 252 316 48 48

Where to Eat:

Onikon Beach and Restaurant
Menemene Yall, Mevkii No 57/A
Turkbuku/Bodrum, Golturkbuku
48400 Turkey

What to Eat:

  • Fruit:  pomegranates, figs, peaches
  • Kumpir: potato with toppings
  • Lokmasi:  deep-fried dough drenched in honey syrup
  • Peynirli borek: similar to Greek spanikopita
  • Sebzeli doner: meat, potato and vegetable skewers
  • Simit: bread that is between a bagel and pretzel

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Restaurants and Raki

17 April 20233 May 2025

Wearing ourselves out in the sun and saltwater, we were excited to enjoy another day of lunch on the property.  We couldn’t pass up an opportunity for their fabulous cheese pizza with its perfectly grilled crust and tasty blend of cheeses and fresh, juicy watermelon.

We had a full afternoon packed with sightseeing and wanted to explore some of the chic oceanside restaurants in the Turkbuku village of Bodrum.  Our first stop was the Macakizi Hotel for happy hour.  This boutique hotel, with a name that means intelligence and beauty, has a lively bar and seaside seating.

We ordered small  plates and shared a couple of bottles of Chardonnay soaking up the views of the nearby islands.  We reminisced about our time in Istanbul and Bodrum, the fabulous food we had eaten so far and our local trip to the supermarket.

This fabulous bar and restaurant draws celebrities from all over the world with its authentic Turkish comfort food.  Macakizi has its own private beach and a yacht available for hire to island hop along the coast.  With its smart interior and sleek interior design, the hotel was placed on The Conde Nast Gold List in 2021.

The scenery around Maki 29 Beach was laidback and oozing with solitude.  Wooden boats were tied up to the dock while large sailboats and catamarans were anchored out in the cove.  We found gravel stairways surrounded with colorful gardens where we took some fun photos and posed for silly pictures.  The sun was beginning to set, so the dusk lighting made for some amazing memories.

It was time for us to find a restaurant for dinner and we all agreed we wanted to try the local seafood at a location along the water.  We happened to find Onikon Beach and Restaurant that had plenty of seating for our party of six.  Looking over the menu, we had so many questions and the staff was incredibly helpful.

They brought out plates of their specialty fish and we decided on the sea bass and bream. We also ordered chicken kebabs, vegetables with hummus and saved room for katmer which is a folded pie pastry.

After dinner, we strolled towards the shops for a final time and found some last minute souvenirs at a cute boutique called Le Kabbak.  We met the owner of the store who was kind to offer us seats outside.  She suggested that we try Raki, one of Turkey’s signature drinks.  None of us had heard of it so she began to pour small amounts into shot glasses and encouraged us to try it.   It reminded me of Greece’s Oozo with its licorice taste.  We each had a couple of drinks and enjoyed talking with her for awhile.  We had only one more day to explore Bodrum so we decided to leave and would arrive early the next morning.   Cheers to Bodrum!

What to See and What to Do:

  • Shopping in Turkbuku
  • Check out the local restaurants

Where to Stay:

Macakizi
Göltürkbükü, Narçiçe?i Sokak,
48400 Göltürkbükü Bodrum/Bodrum/Mu?la, Turkey
Telephone: +90 252 311 2400

Where to Eat:

Macakizi
Göltürkbükü, Narçiçe?i Sokak
48400 Göltürkbükü Bodrum/Bodrum/Mu?la, Turkey
Telephone: +90 252 311 2400

Onikon Beach and Restaurant
 Konac?k, Mercan Sk. 57/A D:1
48470 Bodrum/Mu?la, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 252 377 60 03

What to Eat:

  • Fruit:  pomegranates, figs, peaches
  • Kumpir: potato with toppings
  • Lokmasi:  deep-fried dough drenched in honey syrup
  • Peynirli borek: similar to Greek spanikopita
  • Sebzeli doner: meat, potato and vegetable skewers
  • Simit: bread that is between a bagel and pretzel

Where to Shop:

Le Kabbak
Dereköy, Gümü?lük Yolu No:3
48960 Bodrum/Mu?la, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 252 394 33 99

What to Read:

  • Turkey Street: Jack and Liam move to Bodrum, by Jack Scott
  • Turkish Reflections: A Biography of Place, by Mary Lee Settle
  • I Am Pilgrim, by Terry Hayes
  • Bodrum, Ancient Halicarnassus, by Oguz Alpozen

Photo Guide for Bodrum:

  • Akvaryum Koyu (Aquarium Cove)
  • Bardakci Cove – great snorkeling location
  • Bitez Bay – Take the nature walk along the coastline
  • Bodrum Beach
  • Bodrum Windmills – great hike; nice quiet place to visit
  • Castle of Saint Peter – remains of the mausoleum of Mausolus
  • Gumusluk Harbor – gorgeous setting and amazing lighting at night
  • Turgutreis Red Lighthouse – awesome place for the sunset
  • Yalikavak Marina – luxury yachts, restaurants and shopping
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Leaving Istanbul for Bodrum

10 April 20233 May 2025

Our flight departed from Istanbul early in the morning, arriving in Bodrum at 10:30.  After collecting our luggage, we waited for the bus to take us to Salim’s house along the coast where we would spend several days before sailing the Greek Islands.

The bus was half full with tourists and residents visiting their second homes.  Looking out the window, my eyes were taking in all of the beautiful resorts along the coast.  Colorful flowers decorated the rural route where we entered tunnels with exquisite carvings which led to small, populated towns.

Passing by coves, we saw large yachts, small sailboats and the occasional fishing vessel.  Occasionally, a community of homes appeared as quaint villages along the Aegean Sea and within forty minutes we had arrived at the entrance to our resort community.

At the secured entrance, we waited for our driver to take us to the house and help us unload our luggage.   On our short drive to the house, we decided we would first have lunch and the attendant suggested the cafe where we could order the best pizza in town.  We could see the cove where we would be staying and noticed the crystal clear waters, bathing areas and restaurants with outdoor seating.

Our accommodations were conveniently located within walking distance to the beach, pier, restaurants and shopping.  The summer home of Salim was two story and surrounded by delicate flowers, large enough to accommodate the six of us.

We immediately unpacked our belongings, grabbed our swimsuits and walked down the hill to the pier where we found the restaurant to enjoy lunch.  The stroll in itself was full of jaw-dropping views where whitewashed guesthouses were covered with vibrant blooms.  Sitting along the waterfront, we ate fresh watermelon and made-to-order pizzas.

We swam for a couple of hours until it was time to meet up with Salim to discuss dinner plans.  We decided to stay in, ordering takeout from a nearby food stall.  From Turkish köfte (meatballs) to kebabs, we selected a wide variety of local dishes to sample.

After dinner, we strolled down to the swimming area as the light began to dim. Checking out the sailboats that had arrived to anchor off the shore, we eagerly waited for the sun to set.

We posed for photos, listened to Bruno Mars tunes and fought off sleep in fear of missing out.   With what energy we had left, we stopped by the pool and shared bottle of wine before turning in.  On the short walk home, we all agreed that we could have never imagined the beauty of Bodrum and reminisced about Ramadan in Istanbul until we just couldn’t stay awake much longer.

Have you had the wonderful opportunity to visit Bodrum, Turkey?  Which places did you visit or restaurants did you enjoy?  I would love to hear about your recommendations if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my Girl’s Trip to Turkey and wishing you many Happy Travels!

The Turkish Flag

Beautiful Flowers in Bodrum

The Evil Eye – This circular symbol keeps evil thoughts from harming you

Enjoying the Sunset in Bodrum

Catamarans and sailboats in the Bodrum Harbor

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Topkapi Palace: The Luxurious Lives of the Sultans

3 April 20233 May 2025

+DSC_2032, Topkaki Palace

Once the center of the Roman Empire, Istanbul is the only country that occupies two continents, Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus River.  Originally named after Emperor Constantine, this multicultural city is packed with historical attractions and interesting architecture.  Surrounding the Hippodrome are the city’s top places of interest which includes the Topkapi Palace.

After Rome’s fall to the Ottoman Empire, the Sultans converted Christian churches into Islamic mosques and built a palace in the center of the city.  Surrounded by the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace, once the home of the Sultans, is open for visitors to give insight into the luxurious and private lives of Istanbul’s former rulers.

For over 400 years, the Sultans lived in the Palace until moving into the Dolmabahce Palace in the Besiktas district of Istanbul.  By 1909, this palatial estate was completely abandoned and later restored to become a museum in 1924.

+DSC_0322

As we entered the Topkapi Palace through the Imperial Gate, we approached the Ahmet III fountain.  This beautiful water feature is decorated with locally-made tiles, extravagant mosaics and Islamic calligraphy writing.

The Topkapi Palace and gardens are located near the Palace district of Istanbul and the views of the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn are breathtaking.

+DSC_2037, Entrance into the Topkapki courtyard

The courtyard inside of the Imperial Gate is expansive and was designated an area of green space reserved for public officials and civil servants.  Also known as the “Courtyard of the Janissaries” the open grounds were congregating spaces for the royal soldiers.  These soldiers, elaborately decorated in scarlet, were known for their unique style of music.  Their compositions were said to have influenced European classical musicians such as Beethoven and Mozart.

DSC_0071

Passing through the first courtyard, our guide pointed out a terra cotta building on the compound which was identified as the only Christian church on the property, the Hagia Irene.  The original church was thought to have been built by Roman Emperor, Constantine.  It is only one of few Christian churches that has not been converted into a Muslim mosque.

DSC_2044, The Gate of Salutations, Topkapki Palace

Visitors entering the palace would be required to pass through the Gate of Salutations. Also known as the Middle Gate, this imposing structure was built when the palace was first established in the 15th century.  Resembling a medieval fortress gate, the towers on each side housed the Head Gatekeeper who guarded the entrance.  Above the door is an Arabic inscription from the Koran.   Everyone, with the exception of the Sultan, would be required to dismount their horse before entering this gate.

DSC_0082

Above the entrance to The Gate of Salutations is the imperial signature (tugra) of Sultan Mahmut II and a  passage from the Koran written in Arabic calligraphy.  The Turkish flag has been raised in the center above the entranceway, leading to the Second Court where the palace museum is located.

DSC_2055, DivanTower in the Topkapki Palace

A large tower to the right is the Divan Tower, which was once the most important center of government in Europe.  Across from the Divan Tower is the Imperial Harem Entrance, which was the quarters for the sultan’s mother, his wives and concubines as well as his children and servants.  Four hundred rooms make up the harem, which requires an additional fee to enter.  Approximately twenty of these rooms are available to tour.

DSC_2068, Entryway, Topkapki Palace

The Divan Tower is exquisitely designed with colorful tiles and features accented in gold overlay. There were many meeting rooms, but one of the most important spaces was that of the Grand Vizier, the prime minister.  The Sultan was known to eavesdrop on the meetings of the Grand Vizier through a window with a metal grill, known as the “Eye”.

DSC_2057, The Kitchen at the Topkapki Palace

Along the perimeter of the courtyard is the kitchen.  Noticeable by its tall chimneys, this building is located in the Second Courtyard on the right, facing the Gate of Felicity.  The kitchen offers three different exhibits:  the Chinese Porcelain Collection, the Dessert Kitchen as well as the kitchen Dormitory which houses the silverware and the European porcelain.  We were offered the opportunity to explore the three sections of the kitchen which included the location where the food was cooked, the halva kitchen and the dormitories which housed the cooking staff.

DSC_2056, Topkapki Palace, Istanbul

The Gate of Felicity, also known as the “Gate of the White Eunuchs”, provided entrance into the third courtyard, which was the residential areas of the palace.  Entrance through the Felicity Gate required the permission of the Sultan.  If he was not residing at the palace, this area was off limits.

DSC_2083, Panoramic View of Topkapki Palace

The third courtyard is surrounded by the treasury that displays some of the most amazing riches from the Sultan’s collection.  The first room showcases the imperial thrones and the divans.  The second room contains jade objects and jewels.  The third room houses treasures from the 16th century, and the 19th century candlesticks which adorned the tomb of the Prophet Mohammed.  The fourth room is probably the most interesting with its Emerald Dagger and the 86-carat pearl-shaped diamond.

In the Fourth Court is located the Room of Circumcision.

DSC_2086, Beautiful View from the Restaurant from Topkapki Palace`

A nearby café sells Turkish coffee and the popular Apple Tea while providing gorgeous views of the Bosphorus River.

DSC_2087, Panoramic View, Topkapki Palace

The Baghdad Pavilion was built to commemorate the conquest of Murad IV in 1636.  Made of marble, colorful tiles and intricate inlay, the inside of this kiosk is an example of an ideal Ottoman space and classical palace architecture.

The Topkapi compound is an overwhelming system of open courtyards and hundreds of rooms and chambers.  With only limited time to explore the Palace, it would take hours to fully experience the beauty and culture of this amazing museum.  It was my first opportunity to explore the architecture of the Ottoman Empire and I am beyond ecstatic to see more examples of Turkish design.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul?  What did you find most fascinating?  I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my experience at the Topkapi Palace! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

Disclosure:  Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

What to See and What to Do:

Topkapi Palace
Cankurtaran Mh.,
34122, Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 512 04 80

  • Admission Fee:  The museum ticket is 60 Turkish Lira.  There is an additional fee in the amount of 35 Turkish Lira to visit the harem and 30 Turkish Lira for the Hagia Irene.
  • Hours:  The museum, harem and Hagia Irene is open from 9AM to 4:45 PM and the last entrance to the museum is 4:00PM between October 30 – April 15.  The museum, harem and Hagia Irene is open from 9AM to 6:45PM and the last entrance to the museum is at 6PM between April 15 – October 30.  Note that the hours of operation may change during religious holidays.
  • Amenities:  Museum, café, restaurant, audio guide for rent, bookstore
  • Scenic View:  The restaurant has spectacular views of the Bosporus River
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Photographs inside of the exhibition halls are not permitted. Strollers are also not permitted into the museum sections.  Appropriate dress is required for the Sacred Relics Department:  no shorts, mini-skirts, tank tops or strapless clothing.

Where to Stay:

Fer Hotel
Mollafenari Mahallesi
Turbedar Sk. No. 12
34120 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 522 50 80

Where to Eat:

Cozy Pub & Restaurant
Alemdar Mh., Divan Yolu Cd. No. 60
34110 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 212 520 09 90

We loved sitting in the alleyway at red and white checked clothed tables.  We ordered Efes beer and appetizers which included hummus, tzatziki sauce, pita bread and spring rolls.   Ask your server to let you go up the small elevator for an amazing view of the Blue Mosque!

What to Eat: 

  • Baklava:  made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
  • Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle.  The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
  • Iskender Kebab:  thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
  • Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
  • Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
  • Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
  • Turkish Delight:  a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
  • Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt.  A must try.
  • Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh.  Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
  • Turkish Ravioli:  dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read: 

  • Istanbul: Memories of a City, by Orhan Pamuk
  • The Bastard of Istanbul, by Elif Shahak
  • My Name is Red, by Orhan Pamuk
  • Istanbul Passage, by Joseph Kanon

Photo Guide for Istanbul: 

  • Galata Tower for views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus River
  • The Blue Mosque for its amazing blue tiles
  • The Rainbow Stairs at Sali Pazari Yokusu
  • The Rooftop Terrace of Seven Hills Hotel for views of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace AND the Hagia Sophia
  • Rooftop Terrace of Cozy’s Restaurant for views of the Blue Mosque
  • Inside the Hagia Sophia in the afternoon when the light shines in from the windows
  • The Grand Bazaar
  • Balat for colorful structures in the former Jewish neighborhood

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

+DSC_2033 - Entering the Topkapki Palace through the Imperial Gate

A Gate in the Topkapi Palace

+DSC_2038, Topkapki Interior Courtyard

A Beautiful Courtyard at the Topkapi Palace

DSC_2060, Topkapki Palace

The Beautiful Architecture of The Divan

DSC_2049, Dome of the Topkapki Palace

The Ornate Interior of the Divan

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Seeking Holy Wisdom in Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia

27 March 202325 May 2025

DSC_2204, hagia Sophia

My first visit to Istanbul was on a summer girl’s trip.  Our plans were to start out in Istanbul, Turkey, explore the beautiful coast and sail to a few of the nearby Greek islands.  With only a couple of days in the capitol city, I was disappointed that we had such little time to visit more of Istanbul’s historical sites.  I remember how fascinated I was to see the mosques, the Hippodrome and the Bosporus River all the while watching the city celebrate the Ramadan holiday.

A couple of years later, I returned to Istanbul on a Footsteps of Paul cruise and I was thrilled to be back for two full days in the city.  Happy to visit the Blue Mosque and the Spice Market, our first stop was the Hagia Sophia.

The Hagia Sophia (eye-ah soh-fee-yah) has been described as one of the greatest sites of worship for both Christians and Muslims.  Initially built by Emperor Constantine in 537AD as a Christian church, the site was later converted into a mosque when Islam became the country’s central religion.  I imagine all of the thousands of Christians arriving to the Hagia Sophia to worship in such a beautiful place.  Considered one of Istanbul’s most impressive attractions, nearly three and a half million guests visit this historical site which is now an educational museum.

DSC_0426

Upon entering, all guests are required to remove their shoes and the women must cover their hair.  We approached the Hagia Sophia through the vestibule on the western side where we were then led into the open expanse of the former church.   The central bronze doors were brought to the site from an ancient temple in Antioch.  Known as the Emperor’s entrance on special occasions, the spectacular mosaics decorated the transom dating over 1500 years to the time of Justinian.

DSC_2206, Interior View of the Hagia Sophia, Panorama

Measuring nearly 250 feet long, 230 feet wide and towering 90 feet high, this space is exceptionally large.  Its architecture is influenced by both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires.   An outer narthex leads into the inner narthex (a porch area of the church) and finally reaches the nave in the center, where the congregation would have met.

DSC_2218, Frescoes in the Hagia Sophia

The half domes display colorful mosaics of Mary holding the infant Jesus which were later concealed when the church became a mosque.  Once the facility became a museum, the images were  discovered during a restoration project and ongoing renovations continue to uncover extraordinary artwork.

DSC_2208, More Restoration of the Hagia Sophia

The impressive dome is held up by its walls and arches that strategically distribute the weight of the dome to create a pendentive.  Reaching a height of 185 feet and measuring 100 feet across in diameter, there are 40 ribs made from bricks of clay imported from the Greek island of Rhodes.

DSC_2220, Panoramic View of the Restoration of the Hagia Sophia

When the Hagia Sophia was built, it was constructed with the finest materials that were imported from all over the ancient world.  The large green column was removed  from the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus as a spoil of conquest (spolia).  The two alabaster urns are from the Hellenistic Era of Pergamon and the purple columns behind each urn are older than the Hagia Sophia itself.

DSC_2221, The Floor of the Hagia Sophia

The panel on the walls and the inlay on the floor are a collection of purple porphery from Egypt, green stone from Thessaly, black stone from the Bosporus, yellow stone from Syria, white stone from Cappadoccia and golden stone from Libya.   The green marble circle, called the Omphalion, was the spot where the emperors were crowned.

DSC_0442

Within the Hagia Sophia are a few Muslim elements that remain on display.  The mirhab, known as the prayer niche, oriented the Muslim’s direction so that he could position himself to pray towards Mecca.

DSC_0457

The Mimbar (meem-behr) is the raised pulpit in a mosque where the imam would stand halfway up the stairs to deliver his sermon.

DSC_2212, Gazing up at the Domes, Hagia Sophia

The upper galleries with their arched open spaces are accessible by a ramp near the Narthax.  This second level was designated for women who came to the mosque to worship and we learned from our guide that there are beautiful mosaics on display.

When the church became a mosque, many of the mosaics and frescoes depicting people were covered as required by the Islam religion.  While the building was undergoing restoration, seraphims in the upper corners were recently unveiled.  It was estimated that they had been painted in the 14th century AD.

DSC_2225, Ceiling and Ornate Fixtures, Hagia Sophia

There are a total of eight medallions suspended from the arches overheard.  The Arabic writing documents the names of leading Muslim figures, as images of people were forbidden to be displayed in a mosque.

DSC_2241, Frescoe in the Hagia Sophia

As I exited the Hagia Sophia, I noticed the reflection of the Donation Mosaic in the mirror above. The mosaic is on the opposite side of the wall where Mary is holding Jesus in her lap.  Jesus makes the sign of the trinity with his three fingers of his right hand and holds the Gospels of the Bible in his right hand.  Two men stand beside the Virgin Mary and Jesus, with arms outstretched offering them gifts.  On the right is Constantine presenting them a model of the city of Constantinople and on the left is Justinian gifting them the Hagia Sophia,  Our guide pointed out that the Hagia Sophia was painted as it would have looked when it was a church without the minorets and a cross at the top of its dome.  This 11th century mosaic dates back to the reign of Basil II, an emperor of the Byzantine Empire.

What amazed me about the Hagia Sophia was seeing the combination of Christianity and Islam in one location.  I was also intrigued by the recent findings and the uncovering of Christian artwork that had been hidden for so many years.  Researchers are optimistic that they may find more of these extraordinary treasures and It will be interesting to learn what they will discover.

What was your experience like at the Hagia Sophia?  What were some of the aspects of the museum that interested you?   I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Wishing you many Happy Travels!

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What to See and What to Do:

Hagia Sophia 
Sultan Ahmet Mahallesi
Ayasofya Meydani
34122 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 212 522 17 50

  • Admission Fee:  60 Turkish Lira
  • Hours:  The museum is open April 15 – October 31 from 9AM to 7PM, with the last entry at 6PM;  November 1 – April 15 from 9AM to 5PM, with the last entry at 4PM.  They are closed on Mondays.  Last tickets are sold an hour before closing.
  • Amenities:  Audio guide (30 TL) can be accessed at the museum’s entrance provided in the following languages:  Turkish, English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Arabic, Japanese, Persian, Greek, Russian and Korean
  • Scenic View:  Splendid views of the museum from the upstairs gallery
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:   The Hagia Sophia is located in the Sultanahmet District across from the Blue Mosque.  Arrive early in the day as crowds to purchase tickets can be long. Dress appropriately as you may be turned away for not covering your knees and shoulders. In addition, there are several ways to purchase tickets ahead of time, which will allow you to skip the ticket queue.  According to tradition, if you “turn your thumb” in the historical pillar, all of your wishes will be granted. Gil is the name of the resident cat who lives within the museum. Private tours can also be purchased at the door.  Don’t forget to visit the upstairs gallery for additional displays.

Where to Stay:

Fer Hotel
Mollafenari Mahallesi
Turbedar Sk. No. 12
34120 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 522 50 80

Where to Eat:

Cozy Pub & Restaurant
Alemdar Mh., Divan Yolu Cd. No. 60
34110 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 212 520 09 90

We loved sitting in the alleyway at red and white checked clothed tables.  We ordered Efes beer and appetizers which included hummus, tzatziki sauce, pita bread and spring rolls.   Ask your server to let you go up the small elevator for an amazing view of the Blue Mosque!

What to Eat: 

  • Baklava:  made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
  • Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle.  The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
  • Iskender Kebab:  thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
  • Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
  • Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
  • Tarihi Osmanli Macunu (Traditional Ottoman Candy):  Made of five different flavors of thick taffy spiraled deftly around a stick and then sprinkled with fresh lemon juice, creating a delicious and savory lollipop.  
  • Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
  • Turkish Delight:  a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
  • Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt.  A must try.
  • Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh.  Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
  • Turkish Ravioli:  dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read: 

  • Istanbul: Memories of a City, by Orhan Pamuk
  • The Bastard of Istanbul, by Elif Shahak
  • My Name is Red, by Orhan Pamuk
  • Istanbul Passage, by Joseph Kanon

Photo Guide for Istanbul: 

  • Galata Tower for views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus River
  • The Blue Mosque for its amazing blue tiles
  • The Rainbow Stairs at Sali Pazari Yokusu
  • The Rooftop Terrace of Seven Hills Hotel for views of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace AND the Hagia Sophia
  • Rooftop Terrace of Cozy’s Restaurant for views of the Blue Mosque
  • Inside the Hagia Sophia in the afternoon when the light shines in from the windows
  • The Grand Bazaar
  • Balat for colorful structures in the former Jewish neighborhood

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

DSC_2217, An Angel in the Hagia Sophia

A Seraphim that was uncovered in 2010

DSC_2232, Wide Angle Shot of the Ceiling of the Hagia Sophia

The Dome, the Seraphim, the Medallions and the Scaffolding

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I have had a passion to travel for as long as I can remember and landed my dream job at the age of 19 on a cruise ship. The Suite Life of Travel is about those experiences as well as my future endeavor to explore this amazing world!

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