Touring the Palatine Hill in the morning, I was hungry for lunch by the time I had reached the Piazza del Popolo. I had jotted down a few restaurants that my friend Al recommended for my stay in Rome, so I decided on the cafe, Canova over its historic rival, Bar Risoti.
Within seconds, a young handsome waiter, Giorgio, handed me a menu and took my drink order. I couldn’t wait to try the Canova risotto with provola cheese, champagne and truffles and had a few moments to review my map of the square. When Giorgio arrived with my glass of Prosecco, I was pleasantly surprised by the baguettes and dipping oil that he brought me as well.
While waiting for my meal, Giorgio asked where I would be going after lunch. I shared my plans to stroll the Piazza del Popolo and climb the stairs up Pincio Hill before shopping along the Via dei Condotti.
I selected the perfect table for looking out onto the Piazza del Popolo where I could see the Porta Flamina, the northernmost entrance of Rome. Built as a part of the Aurelian Wall, the door was renovated during the 17th century in preparation of the visit of Queen Christina of Sweden. 
Four lions guard the 75-foot Egyptian Obelisk where vendors sold roses and a young man played the violin. A sprawling location for thriving artists, the piazza is both entertaining and displays some of the world’s most historical art.
Giorgio placed the risotto on the white linen table cloth and my mouth began to water with the smell of truffles and cheese. The risotto was creamy with a texture smooth as silk, it practically melted in my mouth. The perfect portion size, I decided I had enough room for dessert and placed my order for one of their signature dishes.
While enjoying each bite of my meal, I read over my tour book and learned that the Piazza del Popolo was the segway for many pilgrims arriving from Europe. Leading to the Forum and Capitoline Hill is the Via del Corso that runs north and south between the Santa Maria in Montesanto on the left and the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli. The Via del Babuino leads to two of the largest pilgrimage churches of Santa Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano.
The most important of the three pilgrimage roads was the Via di Ripetta, leading to the Vatican. The Via del Corso, the Via del Babuino and the Via di Ripetta create the tridente.
Giorgio took my plate and replaced it with Napolitanos. Pastries filled with a spectacular light lemon and ricotta filling was the perfect finish to my extraordinary meal.
The Fountain of the Goddess of Rome is located east of the square and at the base of the stairway leading towards the Pincio Gardens. I took the stairs to the top where I was met with spectacular views of St. Peter’s Basilica and the northern part of the city, reaching all of the way to the Janiculum. Families enjoyed their day with packed picnic baskets as their children played among the beautifully terraced Pincio Gardens.
I made one last pass through the Piazza del Popolo where I was left standing at the crossroads of the tridente. I selected the Via del Corso leading towards the Spanish Steps and the infamous shopping street of Via Condotti. Before reaching the Steps, I passed the “hairy” man statue covered in moss, Il Babuino (Baboon) and the tall column, Colonna dell’Immacolata, commemorating the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. Eventually, I reached the courtyard-sized Piazza di Spagna crowded with shopping tourists and fashionable women dressed elegantly with high heels and large Jackie Onassis sunglasses.
A crowd of children had gathered around the fountain that looked like a boat, the Bernini-designed Fontana della Barcaccia. The weather had warmed up in the late afternoon and the water from the fountain was a welcome coolness.
The Piazza di Spagna’s most famous attraction are the Spanish Steps which lead up towards the Scalinata di Trinita dei Monte, a Renaissance Catholic Church. Climbing the 138 steps, I am welcomed with a spectacular view of the Via Condotti from the Piazza della Trinita dei Monti. The church was closed for renovation, so I admired the Egyptian Obelisk and began my descent towards Rome’s famous shopping area.
Strolling along the pedestrian street of Via Condotti, I leisurely window shopped at boutique designer stores of Dior, Gucci, Valentino, Armani and La Perla. I stood outside of Dolce & Gabbana, gathered the courage to enter and decided that the only item I could afford was the $125 t-shirt. The shop attendant was working with a beautifully dressed millennial that easily wore a size 2, so I slipped out the front door, promising myself that I would purchase that t-shirt on a return visit and instead, walked to Caffe Greco for a coffee I could afford.
Rome is a phenomenal city, full of history, culture, fashion and life. I find it to be one of my favorite places to visit and if I take the advice of my Italian waiter, I am sure to continue my exploration of this magical city, one piazza at a time.
What is your opinion of Rome? Do you have a method of visiting the city? I would love to hear about your trip and hear your recommendations for where to visit and where to eat. Many thanks for reading about my tour through the northern neighborhood of Rome and wishing you many Happy Travels!
What to See and What to Do:
Book a ticket on the Hop On/Hop Off Bus for a tour of Rome
Where to Stay:
Courtyard Rome Central Park
Via Giuseppe Mosacti 7
Rome 01168 Italy
Telephone: +39 06 355741
Where to Eat:
Canova
Piazza del Popolo, 16-17-00187, Roma
Telephone: +39 06 361 2231
This restaurant is ranked as one of the best restaurants for people watching in the Piazza del Popolo. I ordered the Canova risotto with provola cheese, champagne and truffles and Napolitanos for dessert.
Dal Bolognese
Piazza del Popolo, 1-00187, Roma
Telephone: +39 06 322 2799
This is an upscale restaurant which is perfect to visit for lunch when prices are usually lower. I ordered the Caprese con Mozzarella di Bufala, Pomodore e Basilico for 14 Euros. It was absolutely delicious and I enjoyed the beautiful outdoor seating.
What to Eat:
- Artichokes: steamed or fried
- Cacio e Pepe: Cacio is a type of cheese from Rome’s countryside made from sheep’s milk. The dish is served over pasta and seasoned by black pepper.
- Carbonara: creamy white pasta served with pancetta and noodles
- Gelato: You have not had gelato until you have had it in Rome!
- Maritozzi is a popular breakfast pastry with chocolate chips served with espresso. Some maritozzi are filled with cream as well.
- Pecorino Romano cheese
- Pizza al Taglio is Rome’s answer to pizza with red sauce, meats, vegetables and cheeses. I also love the Italian margarita pizza with red sauce, mozzarella cheese and topped with basil.
- Porcetta: Pork wrapped around herbs and roasted on a spit
- Saltimbocca is a dish made with veal and sage wrapped in prosciutto, cooked in white wine and butter.
- Suppli is considered an Italian snack made of rice and meat with tomato sauce and filled with mozzarella cheese and then deep-fried. It reminds me of arancini in the US.
Where to Drink:
Il Goccetto (for wine)
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14
00186, Roma RM, Italy
Telephone: +39 06 9944 8583
Terrazza Borromini
Via di Santa Maria dell’Anima, 30A
00186 Roma RM, Italy
Telephone: +39 06 6821 5459
While the drinks are pricey, it will be worth the cost for the fabulous views.
What to Read:
- Imperium, by Robert Harris
- Roma, by Steven Saylor
- SPQR, by Mary Beard
- The Twelve Caesars, by Robert Grave
Photo Guide for Rome:
- Campo de’ Fiori for photos of the market
- The Colosseum
- Monti for upscale boutiques, restaurants and vintage stores
- The Pincio Terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo in northern Rome
- The top of St. Peter’s Basilica
- Trastevere neighborhood for scenic alleyways, artisan workshops, the piazza at sunset, and tiny boutiques. Find the corner of Vicolo delle Torro off of Via della Lungaretta for photo-worthy pics.
- Trevi Fountain
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The Flaminio Fountain Lions
The View from the Spanish Steps
Another spectacular view from the Spanish Steps