Bath, England: Ancient Rome’s Influence on the United Kingdom

14 January 20253 May 2025

Bath, England, was once an artists’ paradise where the likes of Jane Austen, the famous writer, made frequent visits as a child. Today, visitors from all over the world are drawn to the historical Roman baths, the beautiful Bath Abbey and the quaint pedestrian square lined with British restaurants and souvenir shops.

On our way to Bath, the countryside was dotted with farms and charming villages as well as picturesque cottages and lovingly tended gardens. Corner pubs seemed to have been plucked from a popular London crossroad and relocated to this rural scene.

The purpose of my trip to Bath was to explore the Roman Baths, the site of Aquae Sulis and the surrounding courtyard, that were built here in the 1^st century AD. Rome’s empire spanned as far as England at the height of its success and this therapeutic pool of water is what remains of Rome’s influence on this area.

Our big red bus dropped us off in the heart of Bath so we followed the crowds making their way to the Roman baths and took in the extraordinary charm of the town. The cobblestone roads and Georgian architecture reminded me of Jane Austen’s book about Bath’s high society in Northanger Abbey and her novel, Persuasion.

The sky had been threatening to rain all morning, but seemed to have held off for now. Our wait in line extended out the doors and around the corner near Bath Abbey and somehow I managed to bring up the end.

While standing in line, I noticed the square was surrounded by four story buildings with shops, restaurants and bakeries on the ground floor open for business. The Roman Baths Kitchen, Jack’s of Bath, tourist center to exchange money, the Cornish Bakery, the Edinburgh Woolen Mill, Hawkin’s Bazaar were well lit and provided a respite from the drizzling rain.

Bath Abbey stands behind me in the Abbey Church Yard in the heart of the city. The dark, carved wooden arched doors, gorgeous stained glass windows and yellow-hued Bath stone are highlights of the Gothic façade, while its crown jewel are the stone angels climbing up Jacob’s Ladder towards heaven. The church is dedicated to Saint Peter and Saint Paul and was formerly a Benedictine monastery founded in the 7^th century.

Our entry into the Roman Baths provided us access to the upper and lower levels of the museum. Following along the top floor of the complex, statues of Roman emperors and British governors lined up at intervals along the terrace overlooking the Great Bath. From this point of view, I clearly noticed the green water of the bath below and wondered if it was warm, as steam seemed to have been coming off of the pool. A doorway led into a dark room where well lit exhibits provided a timeline and explained how Rome transformed the Sacred Spring of Bath into England’s first spa.

The Sacred Spring not only fed into the baths, but was a collection pool for curses and offerings to the gods and goddesses. Metallic inscriptions on lead or pewter contained curses where locals would write the names of the suspects and blaspheme them for their wrongdoing, many times for theft or perjury. Offerings to the goddess included jewelry, personal belongings or even coins. Some of the currency dated back to the Republic when Augustus was Caesar of Rome.

The lower level leads to the Great Bath yet the complex extends beneath the square and streets of town. The water’s natural temperature is a steady 46 degrees Celsius. The pool’s depth is just over five feet and stairs lead down on each side. Tables and benches may have lined the sides of the pool where visitors could enjoy drinks and snacks.

Large pipes of water extended from the Great Bath on the east and west sides creating additional spa features to the complex. The baths were constructed where the patrons would begin with the hottest bath to the coldest. The hot plunge bath, known as the Caldarium, was heated by a system under the floor called the hypocaust. They were constructed of stacks of pilae (tiles) that allowed the heated air to circulate throughout the floors and surrounding walls. The Laconicum, similar to today’s sauna, was a small room with intense heat designed to induce sweating.

The final bathing experience was the cold bath which helped close the pores of the skin. The water would have come from outside of the baths, most likely a nearby cold water spring. The two columns were added in 1904 as additional support when electric trams were installed.

Adjacent to the Roman Baths was the Temple of Sulis Minerva, honoring the native Celtic goddess of the spa, who carried out the curses provided to her in the Sacred Spring. The temple, built in the classical style, had four large Corinthian columns that supported both the Temple Pediment and beautifully decorated frieze. The Temple Pediment, discovered in 1790, is one of the most fascinating relics of the temple. The detail in this piece of artwork is thought to have come from the area of Gaul in the first century AD.

An inscription that was found in the Temple of Minerva is dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva and may have been the podium that supported her statue. Identified as the Haruspex stone, it was committed to the temple by a Haruspex priest L. Marcius Memor, who had the power to provide consulting services and made important decisions for the temple.

Several tombstones and relics on display represent the kinds of people who lived and died near the Roman bath. Many came to Bath, from Europe, leaving their homes to find work here. One stone inscription was identified as the gravestone of Rusonia Aventina who passed away at the age of 58. She came to Bath from Metz, France.

Another fascinating find was the altar where the priests conducted animal sacrifices. Several altar stones and inscriptions were found at the Temple of Sulis Minerva. Discovered in 1965, two of the cornerstones remained in their original positions. The pedestal carvings depicted the Roman gods, such as Bacchus and Jupiter and were thought to have been painted.

The bronze head of Sulis Minerva is one of the rarest objects from Roman Britain as there were only two other fragments of its kind. Discovered in 1727, it is said that it was most likely from the statue of Sulis Minerva that stood in the temple. Dating back to the first century, there are several layers of bronze gilding applied at various stages over time.

Shortly after the discovery of the first century Roman Baths, John Woods and his son revived the town of Bath into a spa resort once again in the 18^th century. They added to the landscape by building The Royal Crescent’s thirty townhomes were decorated with beautiful Ionic columns and Palladian molding. Today it is a museum and houses the Royal Crescent Hotel.

The charm of this town is in its Gregorian architecture and the pedestrian square and it is just as I had imagined it would be, thanks to the writings of Jane Austen.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the charming English town of Bath? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my excursion to Bath from London and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Roman Baths, Bath
Abbey Church Yard
Bath, BA1 1LZ
United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 1225 477785

Admission Fee: £16.50 for adults (18 – 59); £10.25 for children ages 6 -16; children five and under are free; Seniors (65+) are £14.50
Hours: January to February: Open from 9:30AM to 5PM; March 1 – April 18: Open from 9AM to 5PM; April 19 – April 22: Open from 9AM to 7PM; April 23 – June 20: Open from 9AM to 5PM; June 21 – August 31: Open from 9AM to 9PM; Open September – October: 9AM to 5PM; November to December: Open 9:30AM to 5PM
Amenities: local guides, museum, restrooms, audioguides, WiFi throughout the site
Scenic View: Upstairs there are stunning views of the baths below.
Length of Visit: 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Wear comfortable shoes for walking. No re-entry is provided. Photographs are permitted. There is no bathing at the baths.

Where to Stay:

The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa
16 Royal Crescent
Bath, BA1 2LS
United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 1225 823333

Where to Eat:

Sotto Sotto
10 North Parade
Bath, BA2 4AL
United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 1225 330236

What to Eat:

Fish and Chips – fried fish and French fries
Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding – usually eaten from noon to five on Sundays
Full English Breakfast – includes eggs, sausages, potatoes, mushrooms, blood pudding, tomatoes and toast
Pie and Mash – typically a simple steak and kidney pie or pork pies, this is a classic British comfort food served with mashed potatoes and gravy
Bangers and Mash – which is sausage served with mashed potatoes and gravy
Cockles – a small type of clam
Eton Mess – a dessert made of merengue, cream and strawberries
Sticky Toffee Pudding – a moist sponge cake baked with dates or raisins and smothered in toffee sauce served with custard or ice cream
Afternoon tea – with teacakes, scones, jam and clotted cream as well as champagne and tea
Beef Wellington – filet steak covered with pate and wrapped in puff pastry

What to Read:

Northanger Abbey, by Jane Austen
Bath Tangle, by Georgette Heyer
Persuasion, by Jane Austen

Photo Guide to Bath:

The Roman Baths
The Town of Bath

The Roman Baths of Bath, England

Funerary Statue at Bath, EnglandAncient Coins found in the Roman Baths of Bath, England

Ephesus, Turkey and the Library of Celsius

22 August 202323 September 2024

The sun shone so warmly on my face as the ship approached the cruise port of Kusadasi. The early brilliance casted shadows upon the hills that dominate the horizon while the dimness crowded out the sight of the fort that lie ahead. Kusadasi is the perfect starting point for visiting some of the most famous historical cities of Turkey. From here I will be taking a shore excursion into Ephesus, where I will have the opportunity to explore a stop on Paul’s journey to spread the gospel of Christianity. So excited to be walking in his footsteps.

The Ephesians believed that Ephesia, the beautiful Amazonian queen, founded their city. The Amazons were considered descendants of the god of war, and thought to have been ferocious warriors. The temple of Hadrian tells of a second theory which credits Androklos as its founder and yet a third ideal states that the inhabitants of nearby Halikarnassus (today’s Bodrum) should be honored as the city’s organizers.

It was a quick bus ride and we arrived at the archaeological site, quickly making our way to the start of our early morning. There are two entrances leading into Ephesus; one is the Harbor Gate, and the other is the Magnesian Gate, which is where most guides begin their tours. The field of ruins that lay ahead of us is made of various fragments and cylindrical features. From where we were standing, we could see the Baths of the State Agora to the right which is an extension of the Agora, or shopping plaza, to the left.

The archaeological finds on this site date back to the 14th and 15th century BC. Only 4 – 5 % of the site has been excavated. Some of these items are housed in the Museum of Ephesus.

The Agora was one of the most important public meeting places during the Roman Empire. It was an open area that combined the civic center, administrative buildings and local market. There is a marble road that leads into the Agora from the entrance from where we are standing. The beautifully restored walkway brought us close to the architecture of the baths and we could closely see the various stone and archways created in this once thriving port town.

According to our tour guide, visitors and residents entering Ephesus by land would have first encountered the Agora. The primary boardwalk known as the Stoa Basileios (The Royal Walk) passed through the city’s most important structures and attractions. This road also provided access to the town’s odeon, which is similar to the theaters and music halls of today.

Passing the Agora we came upon the small town hall which was the office of the local government dignitary. Known as the Prytaneion, it was also used to host banquets for honored guests. In the center of the hall, researchers believed that there was an altar dedicated to the goddess, Hestia. Within proximity to the Prytaneion were additional statues that represented Artemis and were uncovered during the excavation of this well-preserved archaeological site.

Further off into the distance from the Prytaneion are the remains of the Roman Emperor’s Temple of Domitian. This is a two story building where displayed on the second level are the caryatids. These statues were considered a representation of the barbarian peoples that Rome had once conquered during the height of its Empire. I love the detail of these statues and find them to be some of the most well preserved artifacts along our walking tour.

We began making our descent towards a line of columns that represented Curates (Kouretes) Street, which runs between the Library of Celsius and Domitian Street. . We approached the Temple of Hadrian to our right and immediately noticed the empty pedestals that stood in front of the temple. Those men that could afford to have their busts made could also exhibit them in this area to be recognized, in a way to flatter themselves. Hadrian’s Temple was so exquisite that I wondered how it must have appeared in the height of Ephesus’ civilization.

Strolling down Curates Street, we came upon the Hercules (Heracles-Greek) Gate, which separates the uptown from the downtown area of Ephesus. It is a fascinating representation of the local god, Hercules who signified masculinity and strength. Many believed that this triumphal arch was built in the 2^nd century AD but was relocated here two centuries later.

The Fountain of Trajan (Trainus) is also located on Curates Street and is one of my favorite structures in Ephesus. What draws me to this building is the intricate artwork of its sculpted pillars as well as the fountain that once held a statue of the Emperor Trajan.

Across the street from the fountain are some of the most lavish homes of the elite Ephesians. The astounding floor tiles remain intact and display the wealth of the families that once lived here. Directly behind these Terrace Homes is a covered area where artifacts and additional research is being conducted. There is an additional charge to visit this small museum where audio recordings escort visitors through amazing frescoes, mosaics, and fountains that rival those of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The tour of Ephesus is not without its elements of surprise. We arrived at a small area where slabs of marble line up against the wall and learned that they were used as public latrines. There are about forty seats, sitting side-by-side. Our guide explained that the public restrooms were important for conducting business between the men.
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The long awaited moment arrived as the Library of Celsus appeared in the distance. A grand structure rising from the ruins, this large two-story structure towered over us as we approached its stairway. The preservation of the library is extraordinary and the details of this building that has been so elegantly preserved.

The glorious marble columns framed the four statues of the library’s façade. Each figure represented the human characteristics of wisdom, excellence, judgment and expertise. It was customary that families of financial means and power would establish monuments or heroons to honor their loved ones. The Library of Celsus was a dedication to Julius Celsus Polemeanus by his son, erected in the early 2^nd century AD.

Inside of the Library of Celsus, we were met with a surprisingly simple structure that contrasted the splendid façade of the building’s exterior. In the ancient world, it was one of the largest libraries housing upwards to 15,000 scrolls. Along the inner walls were recesses that contained rolled manuscripts. This is also the burial place of Celsus, whose vault is located below the ground floor on the north side of the building.

I love the history of large cities such as Ephesus, especially those stories that involve scandal and intrigue. Our tour guide shows us an unassuming tunnel which was, according to legend, a secret passageway. It was said that the men of Ephesus would tell their wives that they were going to the library when in fact they would escape into the local brothel. There is some debate to this theory as the attitude towards sexuality was quite open during this time, but it still makes for a great story.

There were three arches that led out towards the Agora and Grand Theater of Ephesus called the Gates of Mazaeus and Mitridades, named after the slaves that built them. With their prominent Roman style architecture, the gates were built as a dedication to Emperor Augustus. Statues of his family could be seen towering above the arches on the attica, while a relief of the Hecate, the god of crossroads was prominent on the outer walls of the structure. Some sources refer to an inscription that was written on the gates which curses “those that piss here”. I wonder how well that deterred the locals.

Standing in the archway of the gate, I looked out into the Agora where shops once lined the courtyard and stalls were set up in the infield. I imagined the bustling square with the smell of food, domestic animals and sweating bodies crowding into the shopping plaza to make their purchases. This was once one of the most important trading centers in all of Ephesus.

Located just off of the Agora is The Great Theater. At the height of Ephesus’ prosperity, it was one of the largest theaters in the Roman-Greco world.

Following the death of Jesus, His apostles left Jerusalem to spread Christianity to the world. St. John arrived in Ephesus with Mary, the mother of Jesus, somewhere between 37 to 48 AD. John is credited for establishing the first Christian community here. John would later be exiled to Patmos, spending his remaining years on the Greek island.

St. Paul put Ephesus on the map when he arrived around 54 AD, staying for nearly three and a half years and wrote his letters here, including a letter to the Ephesian Christians. Ephesus was also included in his missionary tour and the story of his visit is detailed in the Bible, making it a stop for Christian pilgrimages as well.

Today it is one of the most visited by Christians around the world.

Viewing the theater from below is astounding, but I knew that if I climbed to the top, I would have an extraordinary view of the former harbor and surrounding area. Climbing up the rows of seats, I waited until I reached the top before turning around. Here I was rewarded with a dramatic, overwhelming view of the theater, hills and Harbor Street leading away from the city.

Through all of its splendor, I still find it somewhat difficult to imagine this lively, prosperous city of Ephesus regardless of its extraordinary restoration. This site holds not only historical significance, but biblical and archaeological importance as well. Researchers continue to excavate the city of Ephesus which provides a doorway into the lives of those that once lived here. I look forward to the time when I can return and learn what interesting facts they uncover.

Are you a fan of archaeological sites? What draws you to them? I would love to hear which historical locations you find interesting and inspiring if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks for reading about my fascinating journey to Ephesus and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ephesus Archaeological Site
Ataturk Mh
Ugur Mumcu Sevgi Yolu
35920 Selcuk/Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 444 MUZE (6893)

Admission Fee: 60 Turkish Lira; children 12 and under is free of charge.
Hours: The museum is open April – October from 8AM to 7PM, and November 1 – April 15 from 8AM to 5PM
Amenities: Pre-purchase of ticket online, The Terrace Homes (additional cost)
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the Celsus Library and scenes of the surrounding are are spectacular from the arena
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as there is limited cover from the sun. One can purchase tickets ahead of time. Private tours can also be purchased at the door. Wear comfortable shoes for walking. You will notice several cats that live at the site.

Where to Stay:

Livia Hotel Ephesus
Ataturk Mah. 1045 Sok. No. 25
Izmir, 39520, Selcuk, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 892 92 99

Where to Eat:

Artemis Restaurant
Sirince Mahallesi, Sehit Yuksel
Ozulku Caddesi No. 7
35920, Sirince, Selcuk, Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 898 32 40

I absolutely love the property surrounding the restaurant, near olive groves and vineyards. The 19th century stone building was once a village school

What to Eat:

- Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
- Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
- Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
- Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
- Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
- Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
- Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
- Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
- Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
- Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

The Ephesus Scroll by Ben Chenoweth
Burning of the Books at Ephesus by Sir James Thornhill
Ancient Ephesus: The History and Legacy of One of Antiquity’s Greatest Cities by Charles River Editors

Photo Guide for Ancient Ephesus:

The Facade of the Celsus Library
View from the Amphitheater

Another view of the Grand Theater and Harbor Street, Ephesus

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

The Island of Delos: A Lesson in Greek Mythology

1 May 20233 May 2025

As the cruise ship arrived in Mykonos, I learned that I could board a ferry to Delos, the island of the gods. I immediately approached the kiosk to pick up my ticket since I had not made previous arrangements and tickets sell out fast. In only a couple of hours I would be departing on the MV Delos Express and exploring the uninhabited island considered the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.

As the ferry approached the island, I was overwhelmed by the number of ruins sprawled out across acres of land. I purchased my ticket to enter the archaeological site and was provided a map of Delos. Local guides were on hand for an additional charge to those visitors who were interested in personal tours.

I began my adventure searching for the Temples of Apollo and Artemis. Greek mythology revolves around the story of this brother and sister duo and their temples which were of most importance. The Temple of Apollo once housed the Treasury of Greece until it was relocated in the 5th century BC. Even after the island was abandoned, Greeks continued to visit the temple for the annual Panegyris festival in spring. The remains of the temple are sparse, but visitors can see the giant marble pedestal which once displayed the 35-foot Apollo statue.

Since the 1st century AD, the island was left abandoned and excavations by French archaeologists began in 1872. By then, the island of Delos was completely covered in silt and only one-fifth of the site has been uncovered. So much more to be discovered.

The Lion Terrace was undoubtedly one of the most fascinating sites on the island. Mythological legend claims that the statues were provided by the island of Naxos to guard the Sacred Lake as Leto gave birth to the twins. Replicas of the lions continue to watch over the lake, while the originals are housed in the nearby archaeological museum.

At the Sacred Lake stands the palm tree of Leto. It is said that Hera took hold of this tree while in labor with the twins, giving birth first to Artemis and then her brother Apollo. The lake no longer exists because it was drained by the French archaeologists to prevent bacterial disease and other dangerous organisms from growing.

Where once stood the Temple of Dionysus, is now the Phallus of Apollo. Not only was the phallus a symbol of Dionysus, It was erected as a representation of Apollo, the god of Patros (the father of all), the progenitor of the male ancestor, the symbol of fertility.

A residential area stands to the south of the island where a neighborhood of homes were discovered. During excavations, the archaeologists have determined the wealth of these families based upon the beautiful floor mosaics. The minuscule tiles and delicate delicate artwork have survived over many years, protected by the silt. The museum houses additional floor mosaics to shield them from the impacts of weather and the salty environment.

I can see Mount Kynthos on the left as I navigate through the network of streets in this ancient neighborhood of sorts. Once a bustling port town, the island of Delos was home to over 30,000 residents and an estimated 3,000 shops.

Through the maze, I found the Dolphin House known for its spectacular dolphin mosaic with a circle enclosed by a square. It is one of two mosaics that were signed by its original artist. The gorgeous mosaic in the House of Dionysos shows the winged goddess riding a tiger and is an amazing example of Hellenistic art. Within the House of Trident, the perfectly refurbished floor mosaic displays a dolphin, wrapped around an anchor.

Within walking distance was the Theater at Delos which seated approximately 5,000 spectators. In need of extensive repair, even in its current state, one could see the magnitude of its size.

The island of Delos was the home to Mount Kynthos (in the background) which rises 375 feet and is the highest point on the island. Unfortunately I did not have enough time to climb up to the top of the mountain to see the remains of the Temple to Zeus and Athena but I heard other ferry passengers discussing their spectacular view from its peak.

It was decreed by the Athenians in the sixth century BC that no one could be born or die here. The residents at the time were relocated to a nearby island, Rinia to keep the island of Delos pure for the gods.

Just as I had expected, my excursion to Delos was well worth the visit. I took the time on the ferry back to imagine the island with inhabitants and wished I could have seen it in its prime. An island dedicated to the gods? Not a bad place to be born.

What are your thoughts on Delos? Have you been to the island? I would love to hear from you if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Island of Delos accessible by Naxos, Mykonos or private yacht.

Admission Fee: 12 Euros if you are not paying for a guided tour; Guided tours are 50 Euros.
Hours: The earliest ferry departs from Mykonos at 10 AM while the last ferry from Delos to Mykonos departs at 7:30 PM. Another ferry departs at 1:30PM, so if you are traveling by cruise ship, you will want to ensure that you select the early ferry.
Scenic View: Amazing views of ancient civilization and the amazing colors of the harbor.
Length of Visit: 3 hours or more to explore the ruins, climb Mt. and visit the museum.
Travel Tip: You must ensure you take the correct ferry whether you are arriving to the island of Mykonos by cruise ship or visiting the island on your own. There are no accommodations on the island and for many years the island does not allow overnight stays.

Where to Stay:

Not available on the island of Delos

Where to Eat:

There is a cafe on the island, but the food is basic and a bit overpriced, Either bring something with you or snacks or wait until you return to your original location.

For more information about the beautiful country of Greece, visit my following links!

Santorini: Life on a Volcano
Mykonos: Whitewashed and Wild
Corfu: An Old Town, Palace and Monastery
Corinth, A Biblical and Historical Perspective
The Site of Olympia and its Role in the Olympic Games
The Archaeological Museum at Olympia
Athens, Greece: A Living Museum