Corinth, a Biblical and Historical Perspective

29 August 20232 February 2025

The mainland in Greece holds such contrast to its beautiful Mediterranean islands and sailboats in the harbor. When I learned that our cruise itinerary included an excursion to Corinth, I was not certain what to expect. I only knew that this city was significant to Christians as a stop on St. Paul’s missionary tour and that a canal was built to connect the Gulf of Corinth to the Saronic Gulf as a major trade route.

Ancient Corinth is little over an hour bus ride west of Athens and our first stop was at the Corinth Canal. We had the opportunity to cross the bridge to marvel at this engineering phenomenon which took decades to complete. Visitors can cross over one of two bridges to take a closer look at the depth and length of the passageway. At its deepest, it measures 26 feet. Carved through solid rock, this sensational man-made canal became a major trade route for Greece after its completion.

Once we had finished our stop at the Corinth Canal, we had a few moments to explore the nearby shop before boarding the bus for a trip to the ruins of Ancient Corinth.

Spread out, and found undisturbed in the middle of nowhere, we arrived at the archaeological site and museum of Ancient Corinth. The location was surrounded by fields and hills, where a small Greek Orthodox Church provided solace to a sheep herder with his flock making their way to the next pasture.

The Ancient Corinth Museum was a short walk from the ancient ruins. The structure houses many of the archaeological artifacts including sculptures and engravings that were found at the site. It was here where the tour began as our friendly guide proudly discussed the relics and treasures that were discovered during the excavation. We noticed that there were quite a few headless statues located in the open air courtyard and learned that instead of making new statues, it was easier to replace the heads to include the likeness of the new rulers.

Samples of ancient Greek writing was also uncovered during the dig and they were beautifully displayed at the museum. I admired the elegance of the language in script and our guide read each of them carefully. The tablets appeared similar to today’s English language, but yet so different, especially in the way it had sound.

After a visit to the museum, we were led outside to explore the historical site of Ancient Corinth. The Temple of Apollo stood forefront over this site which once rivaled the city of Athens in both wealth and power. The Doric columns stood tall and mighty as a layer of clouds rolled in over this magnificent place. Built by the Greeks in 550 BC, only seven of its thirty-eight columns remain.

Within a short walk from the temple, the Roman Market was one of the most impressive sites of the ruins. Stalls that had once been concealed, showed the layout and structure of this large shopping plaza, the center of socialization in Corinth. In the courtyard there was once an ancient Roman fountain, known as the Fountain of Pirene, which was said to be the favorite watering-hole of Pegasus, a mythical horse with wings.

Additional structures that have been excavated and identified to date include the Propyla A as well as the Periblos of Apollo and the Bema. The Bema refers to the raised platform where a Roman magistrate or ruler sat to make decisions and pass sentence. Biblical reference to the Bema in Corinth can be found in the book of Acts where Paul was brought before Gallio, the proconsul, by local Jews. The offense was that Paul was “persuading the people to worship God in ways contrary to the law”. When Gallio refused to settle the matter, the Jews turned on the synagogue leader and beat him in front of the court. It would have been at this location where the beating took place.

A view of Akrokorinthos/Acrocorinth can be seen from the ruins of Ancient Corinth below. This town, translated as “Upper Corinth” is approximately a 30 minute drive with splendid views of the surrounding area. We were unable to visit this location, but learned that the views from here are spectacular.

The ancient site at Corinth continues on with its excavation and identification of archaeological ruins that have yet to be labeled or discovered. There still remains much work to be done on the site as a large portion of the city remains concealed beneath the countryside. It endures today as a strong spiritual and historical influence that draws thousands of visitors to this area each year. I can only imagine that with the unceasing work of researchers and archaeologists how their future progress will impact the history and findings of Ancient Corinth as we know it today.

Have you had the opportunity to explore archaeological sites that have made an impact on history? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my visit to historic Corinth! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ancient Corinth
Archea Korinthos
200 07, Greece
Telephone: +30 2741 031207

Hours: Daily from 8AM to 7PM
Amenities: shop and limited snacks
Scenic View: Beautiful views of AcroCorinth above.
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as there is no protection from the sun. In addition bring bottled water and snacks as food is limited at the museum. Wear comfortable shoes for walking.

Where to Stay:

Apollonio
Sisifou 2, Ancient Corinth,
Peloponnese, Greece 20007
Telephone: +30 694 941 2888

Where to Eat:

Marinos Restaurant
Ancient Corinth,
Peloponnese, Greece, 20007
Telephone: +30 27410 31 130

What to Eat:

- - Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
  - Choriatiki: Greek salad
  - Dolmadakia/Dolmades: stuffed grape leaves
  - Ellinikos: Greek coffee
  - Gyros
  - Kataifi: similar to baklava, but rolled
  - Moussaka: Greek’s answer to lasagna
  - Pastitsio: pasta made with noodles, ground beef and a bechamel sauce
  - Retsina Wine: has been made over 2000 years
  - Souvlaki: meat on a skewer
  - Spanikopita: pastry filled with spinach and cheese
  - Tzatziki: a Greek sauce made with yogurt, garlic, olive oil and fresh dill

What to Read:

Ancient Corinth Site Guide, by Various Writers
Cure and Cult in Ancient Corinth by Mabel Lang
Demeter and Persephone in Ancient Corinth, by Ronald S. Stroud

Santorini: Life on a Volcano
Mykonos, Greece: Whitewashed and Wild
The Island of Delos: A Lesson in Greek Mythology
Corfu…the Favorite Vacation Destination for an Empress
The Site of Olympia and its Role in the Olympic Games
The Archaeological Museum at Olympia
Athens, Greece: A Living Museum

Ephesus, Turkey and the Library of Celsius

22 August 202323 September 2024

The sun shone so warmly on my face as the ship approached the cruise port of Kusadasi. The early brilliance casted shadows upon the hills that dominate the horizon while the dimness crowded out the sight of the fort that lie ahead. Kusadasi is the perfect starting point for visiting some of the most famous historical cities of Turkey. From here I will be taking a shore excursion into Ephesus, where I will have the opportunity to explore a stop on Paul’s journey to spread the gospel of Christianity. So excited to be walking in his footsteps.

The Ephesians believed that Ephesia, the beautiful Amazonian queen, founded their city. The Amazons were considered descendants of the god of war, and thought to have been ferocious warriors. The temple of Hadrian tells of a second theory which credits Androklos as its founder and yet a third ideal states that the inhabitants of nearby Halikarnassus (today’s Bodrum) should be honored as the city’s organizers.

It was a quick bus ride and we arrived at the archaeological site, quickly making our way to the start of our early morning. There are two entrances leading into Ephesus; one is the Harbor Gate, and the other is the Magnesian Gate, which is where most guides begin their tours. The field of ruins that lay ahead of us is made of various fragments and cylindrical features. From where we were standing, we could see the Baths of the State Agora to the right which is an extension of the Agora, or shopping plaza, to the left.

The archaeological finds on this site date back to the 14th and 15th century BC. Only 4 – 5 % of the site has been excavated. Some of these items are housed in the Museum of Ephesus.

The Agora was one of the most important public meeting places during the Roman Empire. It was an open area that combined the civic center, administrative buildings and local market. There is a marble road that leads into the Agora from the entrance from where we are standing. The beautifully restored walkway brought us close to the architecture of the baths and we could closely see the various stone and archways created in this once thriving port town.

According to our tour guide, visitors and residents entering Ephesus by land would have first encountered the Agora. The primary boardwalk known as the Stoa Basileios (The Royal Walk) passed through the city’s most important structures and attractions. This road also provided access to the town’s odeon, which is similar to the theaters and music halls of today.

Passing the Agora we came upon the small town hall which was the office of the local government dignitary. Known as the Prytaneion, it was also used to host banquets for honored guests. In the center of the hall, researchers believed that there was an altar dedicated to the goddess, Hestia. Within proximity to the Prytaneion were additional statues that represented Artemis and were uncovered during the excavation of this well-preserved archaeological site.

Further off into the distance from the Prytaneion are the remains of the Roman Emperor’s Temple of Domitian. This is a two story building where displayed on the second level are the caryatids. These statues were considered a representation of the barbarian peoples that Rome had once conquered during the height of its Empire. I love the detail of these statues and find them to be some of the most well preserved artifacts along our walking tour.

We began making our descent towards a line of columns that represented Curates (Kouretes) Street, which runs between the Library of Celsius and Domitian Street. . We approached the Temple of Hadrian to our right and immediately noticed the empty pedestals that stood in front of the temple. Those men that could afford to have their busts made could also exhibit them in this area to be recognized, in a way to flatter themselves. Hadrian’s Temple was so exquisite that I wondered how it must have appeared in the height of Ephesus’ civilization.

Strolling down Curates Street, we came upon the Hercules (Heracles-Greek) Gate, which separates the uptown from the downtown area of Ephesus. It is a fascinating representation of the local god, Hercules who signified masculinity and strength. Many believed that this triumphal arch was built in the 2^nd century AD but was relocated here two centuries later.

The Fountain of Trajan (Trainus) is also located on Curates Street and is one of my favorite structures in Ephesus. What draws me to this building is the intricate artwork of its sculpted pillars as well as the fountain that once held a statue of the Emperor Trajan.

Across the street from the fountain are some of the most lavish homes of the elite Ephesians. The astounding floor tiles remain intact and display the wealth of the families that once lived here. Directly behind these Terrace Homes is a covered area where artifacts and additional research is being conducted. There is an additional charge to visit this small museum where audio recordings escort visitors through amazing frescoes, mosaics, and fountains that rival those of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The tour of Ephesus is not without its elements of surprise. We arrived at a small area where slabs of marble line up against the wall and learned that they were used as public latrines. There are about forty seats, sitting side-by-side. Our guide explained that the public restrooms were important for conducting business between the men.
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The long awaited moment arrived as the Library of Celsus appeared in the distance. A grand structure rising from the ruins, this large two-story structure towered over us as we approached its stairway. The preservation of the library is extraordinary and the details of this building that has been so elegantly preserved.

The glorious marble columns framed the four statues of the library’s façade. Each figure represented the human characteristics of wisdom, excellence, judgment and expertise. It was customary that families of financial means and power would establish monuments or heroons to honor their loved ones. The Library of Celsus was a dedication to Julius Celsus Polemeanus by his son, erected in the early 2^nd century AD.

Inside of the Library of Celsus, we were met with a surprisingly simple structure that contrasted the splendid façade of the building’s exterior. In the ancient world, it was one of the largest libraries housing upwards to 15,000 scrolls. Along the inner walls were recesses that contained rolled manuscripts. This is also the burial place of Celsus, whose vault is located below the ground floor on the north side of the building.

I love the history of large cities such as Ephesus, especially those stories that involve scandal and intrigue. Our tour guide shows us an unassuming tunnel which was, according to legend, a secret passageway. It was said that the men of Ephesus would tell their wives that they were going to the library when in fact they would escape into the local brothel. There is some debate to this theory as the attitude towards sexuality was quite open during this time, but it still makes for a great story.

There were three arches that led out towards the Agora and Grand Theater of Ephesus called the Gates of Mazaeus and Mitridades, named after the slaves that built them. With their prominent Roman style architecture, the gates were built as a dedication to Emperor Augustus. Statues of his family could be seen towering above the arches on the attica, while a relief of the Hecate, the god of crossroads was prominent on the outer walls of the structure. Some sources refer to an inscription that was written on the gates which curses “those that piss here”. I wonder how well that deterred the locals.

Standing in the archway of the gate, I looked out into the Agora where shops once lined the courtyard and stalls were set up in the infield. I imagined the bustling square with the smell of food, domestic animals and sweating bodies crowding into the shopping plaza to make their purchases. This was once one of the most important trading centers in all of Ephesus.

Located just off of the Agora is The Great Theater. At the height of Ephesus’ prosperity, it was one of the largest theaters in the Roman-Greco world.

Following the death of Jesus, His apostles left Jerusalem to spread Christianity to the world. St. John arrived in Ephesus with Mary, the mother of Jesus, somewhere between 37 to 48 AD. John is credited for establishing the first Christian community here. John would later be exiled to Patmos, spending his remaining years on the Greek island.

St. Paul put Ephesus on the map when he arrived around 54 AD, staying for nearly three and a half years and wrote his letters here, including a letter to the Ephesian Christians. Ephesus was also included in his missionary tour and the story of his visit is detailed in the Bible, making it a stop for Christian pilgrimages as well.

Today it is one of the most visited by Christians around the world.

Viewing the theater from below is astounding, but I knew that if I climbed to the top, I would have an extraordinary view of the former harbor and surrounding area. Climbing up the rows of seats, I waited until I reached the top before turning around. Here I was rewarded with a dramatic, overwhelming view of the theater, hills and Harbor Street leading away from the city.

Through all of its splendor, I still find it somewhat difficult to imagine this lively, prosperous city of Ephesus regardless of its extraordinary restoration. This site holds not only historical significance, but biblical and archaeological importance as well. Researchers continue to excavate the city of Ephesus which provides a doorway into the lives of those that once lived here. I look forward to the time when I can return and learn what interesting facts they uncover.

Are you a fan of archaeological sites? What draws you to them? I would love to hear which historical locations you find interesting and inspiring if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks for reading about my fascinating journey to Ephesus and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ephesus Archaeological Site
Ataturk Mh
Ugur Mumcu Sevgi Yolu
35920 Selcuk/Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 444 MUZE (6893)

Admission Fee: 60 Turkish Lira; children 12 and under is free of charge.
Hours: The museum is open April – October from 8AM to 7PM, and November 1 – April 15 from 8AM to 5PM
Amenities: Pre-purchase of ticket online, The Terrace Homes (additional cost)
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the Celsus Library and scenes of the surrounding are are spectacular from the arena
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as there is limited cover from the sun. One can purchase tickets ahead of time. Private tours can also be purchased at the door. Wear comfortable shoes for walking. You will notice several cats that live at the site.

Where to Stay:

Livia Hotel Ephesus
Ataturk Mah. 1045 Sok. No. 25
Izmir, 39520, Selcuk, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 892 92 99

Where to Eat:

Artemis Restaurant
Sirince Mahallesi, Sehit Yuksel
Ozulku Caddesi No. 7
35920, Sirince, Selcuk, Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 898 32 40

I absolutely love the property surrounding the restaurant, near olive groves and vineyards. The 19th century stone building was once a village school

What to Eat:

- Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
- Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
- Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
- Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
- Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
- Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
- Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
- Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
- Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
- Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

The Ephesus Scroll by Ben Chenoweth
Burning of the Books at Ephesus by Sir James Thornhill
Ancient Ephesus: The History and Legacy of One of Antiquity’s Greatest Cities by Charles River Editors

Photo Guide for Ancient Ephesus:

The Facade of the Celsus Library
View from the Amphitheater

Another view of the Grand Theater and Harbor Street, Ephesus

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

St. Thomas, Virgin Islands, Downtown Walking Tour

19 March 20184 January 2025

At dawn, I caught my first glimpse of the beautiful island of St. Thomas with its sailboats and yachts in the harbor. A softness settled over the tranquil Caribbean Sea as the cruise ship approached the dock. The morning chill would soon be replaced by the heat of the sun rewarding us with another tropical day in paradise. Nestled in the cove of Charlotte Amalie, the ship had soon docked at Havensight, only a mile’s walk east of town.

Soon after the ship was tied up and the gangway set out on the dock, I grabbed my belongings and set off towards the village of Charlotte Amalie. The large shopping plaza, located between Post Office and Market squares, offers duty-free liquor, European imports and souvenirs for passengers and crew. Convenient for passengers who prefer to remain close to the harbor, I prefer to shop in town where prices are discounted at a higher rate.

After passing the market at the port, the start of my walk was hardly picturesque with older, industrial buildings lining the roadway. Yet within minutes, approaching Yacht Haven Grande, I explored several upscale shops and restaurants. Luxury cabin cruisers were docked along this popular plaza, ten minutes from the center of town.

The wooden boardwalk soon evolved into a concrete stretch of walkway passing the picturesque cove. With extraordinary views of the nearby islands, sailboats and working boats anchored nearby. One of sixty-eight islands that comprise the US Virgin Islands, St. Thomas is the largest of the four islands that are inhabited.

The sun burned off the last of the morning fog and the view stretched out for miles. A cool breeze masked the 95 degree heat as the walkway narrowed and curved towards the oceanfront village of Charlotte Amalie.

Before the US Virgin Islands were sold to the US, the islands were settled by the Danes in the 17^th century. The final stretch of my walk into town was the Legislature Building on the left and the Virgin Islands Museum. The beautiful museum, originally the 17^th century Fort Christian, is the island’s oldest building in continuous use. Converted into a jail, a church town hall, courthouse and governor’s residence, this museum displays the history of St. Thomas from the Stone Age to present.

Approaching the charming center of Charlotte Amalie, I immediately noticed the second story restaurant, Bumpa’s, with a spectacular view of the cove. Ordering a drink, I found the perfect 2-seater table to take in the picturesque view and map out my tour of the town. The cobalt waters and small boats bobbing along the bay tempted me to stay for the view, but I was excited to explore and learn more about the island’s history.

Stepping out of the restaurant, I found Dronningens Gade (Main Street) where numerous shops stood along the alleyway. Store attendants were standing outside offering discounted rates on jewelry and promised the best deals on the island.

After losing my way for a few minutes, I eventually reached a set of stairs that led me to Hotel 1829. Built as a residence for a French Sea Captain, this former home is now a hotel. Walking towards the entrance, I learned that there was a wedding taking place inside and it was closed for the private event.

Directional signs pointed me towards the scenic attractions I had planned to visit. Looking out into the ocean, I noticed a small clearing in the trees that framed the port of St. Thomas and its beautiful harbor. A set of steps, known as the 99 Steps, continued up the hill. Similar to the stairs I had seen in San Juan, these were also made from the stone ballasts once used to balance the load of old sailing ships.

The island is rich with pirate history so I was excited to visit Blackbeard’s Castle. Originally built by the Danes in 1679, the property, which is now a hotel, was a supposed location where Blackbeard would hang out on occasion.

The Skytsborg Tower sits on five acres, referred to as “The Williamsburg of the Caribbean”. Built in the 17th century this amazing stone structure by the Danes, offers a spectacular view of the harbor.

Making my descent back into town, I stopped to admire “The Three Rebel Queens of the Virgin Islands Fountain”. Unveiled in 2005, this beautiful monument created by Richard Hallier, commemorates the Fireburn Revolt. The Labor Riot, led by Queen Mary, Queen Agnes and Queen Mathilda, started out as a peaceful protest on the island of St. Croix due to small wages and difficult work conditions. Rumors began to circulate within the group that a laborer had been killed in police custody which led to the rioters looting the town and setting fire to the buildings and plantations. The three women were imprisoned as a result of the destruction and are represented in the sculpture carrying a lantern, torch and harvesting tool.

Continuing down the walkway towards town was the Crown House, a vibrant yellow colorful house with purple shutters came into view. This beautiful structure was built in the mid 1800s as the home of the island’s governor, Peter von Scholten. Designed in the style of West Indian architecture, it is currently a private residence.

In the heat of the day, the stroll back to the ship brought me to the Yacht Haven Grande once again. I took a seat on the patio at The Fat Turtle, facing the yachts and enjoyed a drink before checking out Paradise Point.

I decided to ride the cable car to the top of Paradise Point to have a couple of drinks and enjoy the view of the harbor. Although I had the option to take a taxi to the top, I paid the $21 for the St. Thomas Skyride. Boarding the gondola, the weather was just as perfect as the view. I could see the cruise ships and yachts docked in their assigned slips and all of the anchored boats and sailboats dotting the harbor. There were islands as far as the eye could see.

At Paradise Point, there was a shop that sold treasures from a sunken ship that was recently discovered. I had an interesting conversation with one of the divers and checked out the artifacts. I was hoping to take the 1/4-mile trail for views of St. Croix, but the trail was closed due to the previous week’s weather. Instead, I took a seat at Bailey’s Bushwacker overlooking the harbor and placed my order for the local Bushwacker and Key Lime drink. The Bushwacker is made up of 1 oz of the following: Pusser’s Rum (suggested), Vodka, Kahlua, Bailey’s Irish Cream, Amaretto, Frangelico and Crème de Cacao. That’s a lot of alcohol in this tiny, but yummy drink topped with whipped cream and a cherry on top, After a couple of Bushwackers, it was time to call it a day.

Do you have a favorite Caribbean port? I would love to hear about your preferred island and what activities or attractions you prefer. Just leave a comment below! Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Blackbeard’s Castle aka Skytsborg Tower:
Lille Taarne Gade
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands
Telephone: 340 776 1234

If you would like to check out the attractions in Charlotte Amalie, download the Self Guided Downtown Historic Tour and Charlotte Amalie Map from www.virginislandsthisweek.com.

September 6, 2017 Update: This site is CLOSED due to the destruction of Hurricane Irma. A re-opening date is not available at this time.

Villa Notman in Kongens Quarter: next door to Blackbeard’s Castle

September 6, 2017 Update: This site is CLOSED at due to the destruction of Hurricane Irma. A re-opening date is not available at this time.

St. Thomas Skyride:
9617 Estate Thomas
St. Thomas, VI 00802
Phone: 340 774 9809

Admission Fee: $21 for Adults, $10.50 for children 12 and under; children under the age of 5 are FREE.
Hours: Open Monday from 9AM to 4PM, on Tuesday from 9AM to 5PM and on Wednesdays from 9AM to 9PM. Hours may vary depending on when ships are docked in the port of St. Thomas.
Amenities: Restaurant, Tram, Shopping Deck, Sundeck, Dining Room, Patio, Harbor Terrace, The Nest, a reception room for events.
Scenic View: Breathtaking views of St. Thomas’ Harbor from Paradise Point
Length of Visit: 1 to 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: You can also drive or hail a taxi to the top of Paradise Point.

Where to Stay:

Margaritaville Vacation Club by Wyndham – St. Thomas
6080 Estate Smith Bay
St. Thomas, 00802, US Virgin Islands
Telephone: 340 775 8300

Where to Eat:

Bumpa’s
38-A Waterfront Hwy
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands

The Fat Turtle is now permanently closed
Yacht Haven Grande
St. Thomas, USVI 00802
Phone: 340 714 3566

What to Eat:

Bull Foot Soup – also known as cow heel soup, it is made from the heel of a cow, vegetables and local spices
Conch
Fungi – Polenta made from ground cornmeal, Caribbean-style
Johnny Cakes – snack made from flour, butter and sugar
Kallaloo Soup – similar to gumbo, this soup is made from fish, greens, onion, okra and local spices
Lobster
Pate – similar to empanadas; dough filled with chicken, fish or beef
Roti – flatbread wraps filled with meat or vegetables

What to Read:

Caribbean: A Novel, by James Michener
Right Place, Wrong Time by Judith Arnold
Land of Love and Drowning: a novel, by Tiphanie Yanique

Photo Guide for St. Thomas

St. Thomas Ride Paradise for spectacular views of Charlotte Amalie
Megan’s Bay for pristine beaches
99 steps
Government House
Coki Beach for corals and amazing underwater life
Secret Harbour for squid, turtles and barracuda
Drake’s Bench for panoramic views
Brewer’s Beach Bay for viewing airplanes
Blackbeard’s Castle

The St. Thomas Harbor

The Yachts in St. Thomas

A View of the Ship from Town

The Islands Surrounding St. Thomas

Panoramic View of Charlotte Amalie and the St. Thomas Harbor

The exciting view of St. Thomas from Paradise Point

The cable cars on the St. Thomas Skyview Ride

The Carnival Liberty as seen from Paradise Point

The Port of St. Thomas

Drinks at Bumpa’s

The Mayan Mystery of Tulum

4 August 201531 August 2024

Overlooking the gorgeous waters of the Caribbean Sea, I could hardly wait to revisit the Mayan archaeological site of Tulum. Working for the cruise lines, I had the amazing opportunity to explore many of the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan and learn about their spectacular culture.

I had arrived by colectivo (the shuttle van) from Playa del Carmen (80 pesos round trip) which took just a little over 45 minutes one way. It was a wild ride and it took me back to the days of traveling this road in the 1990s. We always joked about how fast the buses traveled along this long stretch of road. Does Mexico have a speed limit?

Staying in Tulum, I was so happy to have arrived at the site, long before the cruise ship crowds. With plenty of time to explore, I visited each of the Mayan structures and then spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the beach.

The Mayans were responsible for building several magnificent settlements throughout today’s countries of Guatemala, Honduras, Belize and El Salvador. While much is known about ancient Greek and Roman civilization, there is extensive evidence of the intellect of the Mayans as found in their construction, mathematics and astronomy.

Their temples and buildings include magnificent stairways, columns, terraces, decorative carving, arches and moldings. Research has shown that the Mayans used three symbols for use in counting with the dot representing the number one, a line for the number five and a decorative shell standing in as the number zero. They also succeeded in developing the 365 day calendar known as the Haab based on the solar system. Similar to the Egyptians, the Mayans used hieroglyphs to document historical events.

On the eastern coast of the Yucatan peninsula, Tulum was the most important archaeological site of the Maya.

Tulum has a special place in my heart as I had first toured this location in my early 20s. I was amazed by the stunning architecture and history of the Mayan civilization as well as the location of this beautiful place. I couldn’t help but stand in awe, feeling as though I had stepped back in time entering this magical place.

Tulum was one of several walled cities within the state of Quintana Roo. Most likely inhabited between the 13^th and 15^th centuries, it was an important port city for trading obsidian. Beautifully built on a bluff that faces the Caribbean Sea, Tulum may have been known as Zama, which means City of Dawn. It is also believed that Tulum was an important site for the worship of the Descending (or Diving) god.

According to the document, Las Relaciones de Yucatan (the Accounts of Yucatan), the Spanish first encountered Zama during their 1518 expedition, conquering the site in 1544. By the end of the 16^th century, the site was completely abandoned.

In 1847, the War of the Castes saw an uprising of the Mayans against the government and landowner as Tulum became their refuge. Following another revolt in 1871, Tulum was considered a shrine until 1916 when restorations of the site were led by Sylvanus Morley and George P. Howe. By 1938, Mexican archaeologist Miguel Angel Fernandez began his conservation and restoration work of the site.

Stretching nearly four miles along the coast are buildings, platforms and tombs within the Inner and Outer Precincts (The Great Wall). The wall may have been built as a defense for the city but also separates the government and religious buildings. With five narrow entrances, there may have also been watchtowers on the northwest and southwest corners.

The inner precinct may have been where the more important buildings would have created the city’s center. These structures would have included the Castillo (Castle), the Temple of the Descending God, and the Temple of the Initial Series with additional temples, shrines and platforms throughout.

One of the most important of these buildings was the Temple of the Frescoes which stands east of the main street. It is believed that this temple was used to track the movements of the sun. Integral to the society’s social and religious activities, the murals, frescoes, and sculptures gave the world an insight into Mayan culture.

Built over various stages, the temple’s first level was a simple ground level structure with a small altar on the opposite end of the entrance. The original murals have been exquisitely preserved by the gallery built in its second stage. These religious paintings illustrate the Mayan gods, entwined serpents and offerings, based on this Central American culture.

In its second stage, a chamber was added in addition to columns, capitals and pillars. Stucco mask figures make up the frieze in addition to niches that may have held important relics. Additional paintings include one of the Descending god surrounded by figures with elaborate headdresses. The architrave displays red handprints, an unusual relief of men and snakes as well as two large masks of the gods, most likely that of Char and Itzamna, the giver of life.

To support the temple built on the next level, the third stage required reinforcements to sustain this religious place of worship.

Outside of the temple was displayed a stele engraved with text but the stone was so worn that it could not have been deciphered.

Second to the Temple of the Wind rising up from the coast of the Caribbean Sea, the Castillo also dominates the skyline of this archaeological site. The tallest building in Tulum, the Castle has evolved over many years to include a ginormous buttress, double gallery on a terrace and a mountain of stairs reaching a gorgeous temple on top.

Shrines, niches, porticos and serpent shapes were discovered deep in its interior as well as a figures, stucco masks and feather headdresses.

Tulum’s House of the Halach Uinik was the home of the supreme ruler of Tulum during the colonial period. Standing on a platform, the entrance has four columns and towards the rear walkway, a roofed shrine. Inside of the two vaulted tombs, archaeologists found fragments of incense burners. On the east side of the structure is a carving of the Descending god.

Iconic photos of Tulum show the Temple of the Wind against the background of the crystal blue Caribbean ocean. This is what originally drew me to the archaeological site in the early 1990s.

With only a single room, the Mayans would gain entrance from the north. Unlike the other structures, this temple stood on a round platform which was used in temples dedicated to the god of the wind, Ehecati throughout the Central Plateau.

It is estimated that there are sixty structures that have been labeled at Tulum. Among them are:

the Temple of the Descending god, a well preserved site with murals, carvings depicting religious scenes and elaborate cornices;
House of the Chultun, a cistern that stored rainwater;
the Temple of the Initial Series, where a stele was found, now housed in the British Museum;
the House of the Columns, known as the Great Palace;
House of the Cenote, which stood over an ancient well

I could have spent a couple of days exploring this spectacular site where my fascination of the Mayan culture began but I had scheduled a dive at Akumal to revisit another one of my favorite activities in Quintana Roo.

Have you visited Tulum and did you find yourself drawn to the Mayan culture? I would love to hear about your adventure if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my revisit to Tulum and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Archaeological Site of Tulum

Admission Fee: 65 pesos
Hours: Open daily from 8AM to 5PM, last admission at 4PM
Length of Visit: 2 – 4 hours
Amenities: Shopping center, store, ticketing window and restrooms
How to Get There: The colectivo from Playa del Carmen is located at Avenida 15 and Calle 2. The drivers will be holding signs and/or calling out the destination, so make sure you are listening or looking for “Tulum”. You can access the shuttle schedule by visiting their website at ado.com.mx. The shuttle will drop you off at ruins first where there will be a 10 minute walk from this location or you can take a little train for 20 pesos. If you are driving from Playa del Carmen, take Highway 307 South. If you are staying in Tulum, the trip is on 5 minutes away.
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early as the ruins are crowded in the afternoon and is the hottest time of the day. Do not purchase tickets at stands along the entrance to Tulum as they may not be valid tickets. Wait until you reach the entrance into the Mayan ruins. Wear comfortable shoes, bring lots of water and wear sunscreen and a hat. There are no restaurants at the site, so if you are hungry, eat outside of the entrance. Climbing the ruins and touching them is prohibited. If you want to stay to enjoy the beach, make sure you bring a swimsuit and beach towel.

Where to Stay:

Gramercy Tulum
Av. Boca Paila Km 9.5,
Tulum Beach, Zona Costera, 77760 Tulum, Q.R.
Telephone: +52 1 (984) 877 0483

Amenities: Oceanfront, Restaurant and Bar, Free WIFI, Spa, pet friendly, room service

Where to Eat:

Hartwood
Carr. Tulum-Boca Paila 7-6Km,
Tulum Beach, 77780 Tulum, Q.R., Mexico
reservations@hartwoodtulum.com

One of the most sought out restaurants in Tulum, you must make reservations in advance for the months of June, July and August

What to Eat:

Cochinita Pibil is a suckling pig marinated in a sauce which includes sour orange juice, spices and ground achiote. It is then wrapped in banana leaves and cooked overnight in an outdoor oven. Truly Authentic!!!
Pescado de la Veracruz– fish drowned in tomato sauce with green olives, onions, tomatoes, chiles and garlic.
Poc Chuc– pork marinated in sour orange juice which comes from a local fruit indigenous to the Yucatan.
Sopa de Lima– a type of chicken soup that is seasoned with limes.
Tikin – Xic– red snapper or grouper that is wrapped in banana leaves with sliced tomatoes, bell peppers, onions and drenched in a special sauce made with sour orange juice, oregano and spicy paste.
Ceviche – fish “cooked” using fruit juices such as lemon or lime

What to Read:

A Tourist in the Yucatan, by James McNay Brumfield

Photo Guide for Tulum:

Tulum Ruins and Playa Tortuga
Cenote Suytun – For the best photo, visit late morning and early evening to catch the sun’s beams shining directly on the circular platform
Cenote Zacil-Ha – amazing platform and open air
Cenote Car Wash – swinging ropes and bridges
Grand Cenote with this spectacular boardwalks
Kaan Luum Lagoon – arrive early for uninterrupted photos
Crooked Palm Trees at Hotel El Pariso and Amansala Resort Hotel
Casa Cenote between Playa del Carmen and Tulum
Sculptures at Ven a Luz at Ahau Tulum Beach
Muyil Mayan Ruins
Matcha Mama and their swings
Follow That Dream sign, located near the Lolita & Lolita Boutique

Phenomenal Cliff Dwellings at Montezuma Castle National Monument

19 January 201531 August 2024

Well-preserved and protected from the elements, an ancient Indian cliff dwelling is said to have been built between 1100 to 1425 AD. Standing five stories tall, an estimated forty-five to sixty rooms have been built into an alcove of limestone.

When I arrived in the small town of Camp Verde, Arizona, I could not have imagined the beauty of the Montezuma Castle National Monument. What I found most impressive was the craftsmanship of the Sinagua and the incredible cliff dwellings they had built nearly 100 feet above Beaver Creek Canyon.

Approaching the site, I immediately noticed the detail of Montezuma’s construction and how the large stones were held together by a primitive mix of clay and mud. The walls were built from layers of mud measuring about an inch thick protecting the interior rooms and providing a barrier from the wind and heat. The thatched roof was constructed of local Arizona sycamore intertwined with mud. According to the artifacts found at the site, these rooms were used for both living space and storage.

Researchers believe that the Indians may have fled in the mid-11^th century when nearby Sunset Crater Volcano erupted. They would later return in the late 1100s as the area was then perfect for growing crops following the event. The aftermath of the eruption gave the Indians a strong, reliable watershed for irrigation and a much richer soil.

Montezuma Castle National Monument became a US National Monument in 1906 and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1966. Early visitors could climb up into the ancient apartment complex through a series of ladders until it was prohibited to do so in 1951. While the interior of the settlement is not accessible today, the site is a spectacular example of Indian life of the Southwest. There are approximately 400,000 visitors that tour the park and visitor’s center each year. The Visitor’s Center displays artifacts and provides a historical account of the lives of the Sinaguan culture. Even today, this location remains a place of religious ceremonies for the local Hopi and Yavapai Indians.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Montezuma Castle National Monument in Arizona? What did you think of your experience? I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my visit to Montezuma and wishing you many Happy Travels!

Disclosure: Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

What to See and What to Do:

Montezuma Castle National Monument
Montezuma Castle Road
Camp Verde, Arizona 86322
Telephone: 928 567 3322

To reach Montezuma Castle National Monument, follow these directions:

Follow I-17 to exit 289 (90 minutes north of Phoenix, 45 minutes south of Flagstaff). Drive east (through 2 traffic circles) for approximately ½ mile to the blinking red light. Turn left onto Montezuma Castle Road.

Admission Fee: Montezuma Castle Entrance fees are Adults (16 and older): $10 which is good for seven days for the castle as well as the Tuzigoot National Monuments; Children under 16 can enter at no charge. There are several holidays where entrance is free to include Martin Luther King Jr. Day, First Day of National Park Week/National Junior Ranger Day, National Service Park Anniversary, National Public Lands Day and Veterans Day
Hours: The visitor center, museum and trail are open daily from 8AM to 5PM; Montezuma Well Trail is also open daily from 8AM to 5PM and for all attractions, the last vehicle admission is 4:45PM. For additional discounted fees visit the park’s website.
Amenities: Educational opportunities and bookstore
Scenic View: Montezuma Castle is spectacular dating over 800 years
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Bring water and sunscreen as the site is in the middle of the desert. Consider arriving early (around 9AM) when the sun will be behind you. Parking may be difficult because it is small, but spaces are more available after lunch on most days. Don’t forget that your entrance fee also includes the Tuzigoot Ruins!

Where to Stay:

The Lodge at Cliff Castle Casino
333 Middle Verde Road
Camp Verde, AZ 86322
Telephone: 866 925 7881
Website: https://www.cliffcastlecasinohotel.com/

Where to Eat:

Mountain Springs Buffet at Cliff Castle Casino Hotel

What to Eat:

Avocado Fries are sliced avocados dipped in spiced bread crumbs and deep fried.
Chiltepin Peppers….very hot!
Cholla, a cactus found in the area, that is boiled and the gooey acid is removed to eat directly or added to salsas.
Cochinitos are a puffy, doughy cookie usually found in the shape of a pig. This light dessert is seasoned with molasses and cinnamon.
Prickly Pear Cactus which is made into a candy and a sweet syrup
Sonoran Hot Dog, popular in Phoenix and Tucson, this Mexican creation is topped with beans, onions, and tomatoes along with mayonnaise and mustard.
Tamales!

What to Read:

The Women in the Castle, by Jessica Shattuck
The High House, by Jessie Greengrass
The Cave Dwellers, by Christina McDowell

Disclosure: Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

Altun Ha, Mayan Ruins in Belize

26 March 201431 August 2024

I was working for the cruise lines, traveling to Mexico each week when I became interested in the Mayan culture. In addition to the San Gervasio ruins in Cozumel, I was even more curious about the Mayans once I had visited the archaeological site of Tulum. I couldn’t wait to explore more of these ancient ruins throughout Central America.

My travels would take me to several countries where I could study the Mayan people. Belize was one of my favorite experiences because the archaeological sites had not yet been fully excavated. At every opportunity I could find, I was visiting some of these amazing villages to gain more insight to their religious practices and everyday lives.

The Mayan ruins of Altun Ha are located north of Belize City. A popular excursion for visitors to the country, it was one that our cruise line offered for our passengers and I was able to book the trip within a month of joining the ship.

We boarded a bus early in the morning for a short ride to the jungle. Once we reached the site, there was a path that led through the lush trees and tropical ground cover. We learned from our guide that it had recently been discovered in the 1960s and was an active archaeological site.

The major cruilse lines were not yet sailing to Belize during my initial visit. With such a small number of tourists, it felt as though we were embarking on our own architectural expedition in search of buried treasure. Overgrown brush and trees encroached the walkway yet we pushed forward eventually reached a clearing in the jungle. Here, we were met by the spectacular site of Altun Ha.

It was love at first sight as the view of the ruins’ largest structure stood ahead of us, standing over 50 feet tall. Named the “Temple of the Masonry Alters”, it was the central location for the Mayan’s rituals and celebrations and considered the most important of all temples. Altun Ha means “Rockstone Water,” and could possibly refer to the nearby cistern. According to the Belize Institute of Archaeology, it is the most visited of all Mayan sites in the country of Belize.

The temple was known as the Sun God’s Tomb. At its discovery, there was found the skeletal remains of an elderly male surrounded by priceless offerings to include ceramic bowls, Jade jewelry, pyrite and hematite artifacts. The most significant find was that of a head carved from jade which had been placed on the pelvis of his body. The placement of the jade artifact, weighing nearly 10 pounds, signifies that the man may have been a Mayan chief or high priest. The Jade Head had a bird-beak carved into its face, which was commonly associated with Kinich Ahua, the Sun God.

On the exterior of the temple, there were carvings beside the set of stairs that led to the top of the ruins. Above the base of the temple, to the right, was a face identified as the Jester God, similar to the Jade Head found by archaeologists, Dr. David Pendergast in 1968.

It is estimated that the Mayans occupied Altun Ha from around 900 BC to 1000 AD. Most of the information about the archaeological site comes from AD 400 to AD 900 when the city was at its peak.

Evidence that the Mayans had a rich culture of mathematics, astrology and social rituals was found by archaeologists. By the time excavations of the site came to a close in the early 1970s, there were several artifacts that suggest that Altun Ha was a center of trade and a very prosperous city at one time.

Altun Ha is a spectacular attraction for visitors who are interested in the Mayan culture. Setting up an excursion with a local tour guide is highly recommended as they can provide an in-depth overview of this fabulous archaeological site.

So if you have some time after your exploration of the ruins, find a local restaurant, kick back and order the local Belikin beer. You may recognize the structure on the label as the Temple of the Masonry Alters of Altun Ha.

Are you fascinated with Mayan culture? What archaeological sites have you visited in Central America? I would love to hear your recommendations for my next Mayan adventure if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks for reading about my visit to Altun Ha and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Altun Ha Mayan Ruins: I would suggest contacting a local tour guide for this trip who will provide transportation as well as a guide to walk you through the site.

Belize Exotic Adventures or Belize Fun Tours

Where to Stay:

Chateau de Pradines
Rock, Stone Pond, Belize
Telephone: 501 623 8656

Where to Eat:

Mayan Crystal Skull Mampi Diner
Rock Stone Pond, Belize
Telephone: 501 600 344

What to Eat:

Ceviche is a seafood dish made from raw fish cooked by the use of citrus juice.
Papusas are a popular street food also known as stuffed corn pancakes. Usually comes with hot sauce and a side of coleslaw.
Tamales are a traditional Mayan food and wrapped in plantain leaves instead of corn husks
Rice and Beans: made in coconut milk and pinto beans
Conch Fritters: Conch is a staple in Belize and this is their most popular appetizer
Chimole is a Creole stew made from local spices such as garlic, cumin and oregano.
Seafood which includes white fish, shrimp and lobster

What to Read:

Ping Wing Juk Mo, by various writers
Maya Cities and Sacred Caves: A Guide to the Maya Sites in Belize, by Dr. Jaime Awe
Tropical Nature by Adrian Forsyth
Maya Art and Architecture by Mary Ellen Miller

Photo Guide for Belize:

Baron Bliss Lighthouse is located at the mouth of Haulover Creek in Belize City
Barrier Reef
Beaches
Belize and Orange Walk Clock Tower
Belize Sign
Corozal Bay and its teal waters
Hawkesworth Bridge in San Ignacio
Hummingbird Highway connects Western Belize and the South
Mayan Temples
Mountain Pine Ridge which is the home to 1000 foot falls, Rio On Pools, Big Rock Falls, and Caracol
San Ignacio Murals‘ colorful artwork
Tropic Air flights for amazing views of Belize’s Barrier Reef.

Disclosure: Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.