Ephesus, Turkey and the Library of Celsius

22 August 202323 September 2024

The sun shone so warmly on my face as the ship approached the cruise port of Kusadasi. The early brilliance casted shadows upon the hills that dominate the horizon while the dimness crowded out the sight of the fort that lie ahead. Kusadasi is the perfect starting point for visiting some of the most famous historical cities of Turkey. From here I will be taking a shore excursion into Ephesus, where I will have the opportunity to explore a stop on Paul’s journey to spread the gospel of Christianity. So excited to be walking in his footsteps.

The Ephesians believed that Ephesia, the beautiful Amazonian queen, founded their city. The Amazons were considered descendants of the god of war, and thought to have been ferocious warriors. The temple of Hadrian tells of a second theory which credits Androklos as its founder and yet a third ideal states that the inhabitants of nearby Halikarnassus (today’s Bodrum) should be honored as the city’s organizers.

It was a quick bus ride and we arrived at the archaeological site, quickly making our way to the start of our early morning. There are two entrances leading into Ephesus; one is the Harbor Gate, and the other is the Magnesian Gate, which is where most guides begin their tours. The field of ruins that lay ahead of us is made of various fragments and cylindrical features. From where we were standing, we could see the Baths of the State Agora to the right which is an extension of the Agora, or shopping plaza, to the left.

The archaeological finds on this site date back to the 14th and 15th century BC. Only 4 – 5 % of the site has been excavated. Some of these items are housed in the Museum of Ephesus.

The Agora was one of the most important public meeting places during the Roman Empire. It was an open area that combined the civic center, administrative buildings and local market. There is a marble road that leads into the Agora from the entrance from where we are standing. The beautifully restored walkway brought us close to the architecture of the baths and we could closely see the various stone and archways created in this once thriving port town.

According to our tour guide, visitors and residents entering Ephesus by land would have first encountered the Agora. The primary boardwalk known as the Stoa Basileios (The Royal Walk) passed through the city’s most important structures and attractions. This road also provided access to the town’s odeon, which is similar to the theaters and music halls of today.

Passing the Agora we came upon the small town hall which was the office of the local government dignitary. Known as the Prytaneion, it was also used to host banquets for honored guests. In the center of the hall, researchers believed that there was an altar dedicated to the goddess, Hestia. Within proximity to the Prytaneion were additional statues that represented Artemis and were uncovered during the excavation of this well-preserved archaeological site.

Further off into the distance from the Prytaneion are the remains of the Roman Emperor’s Temple of Domitian. This is a two story building where displayed on the second level are the caryatids. These statues were considered a representation of the barbarian peoples that Rome had once conquered during the height of its Empire. I love the detail of these statues and find them to be some of the most well preserved artifacts along our walking tour.

We began making our descent towards a line of columns that represented Curates (Kouretes) Street, which runs between the Library of Celsius and Domitian Street. . We approached the Temple of Hadrian to our right and immediately noticed the empty pedestals that stood in front of the temple. Those men that could afford to have their busts made could also exhibit them in this area to be recognized, in a way to flatter themselves. Hadrian’s Temple was so exquisite that I wondered how it must have appeared in the height of Ephesus’ civilization.

Strolling down Curates Street, we came upon the Hercules (Heracles-Greek) Gate, which separates the uptown from the downtown area of Ephesus. It is a fascinating representation of the local god, Hercules who signified masculinity and strength. Many believed that this triumphal arch was built in the 2^nd century AD but was relocated here two centuries later.

The Fountain of Trajan (Trainus) is also located on Curates Street and is one of my favorite structures in Ephesus. What draws me to this building is the intricate artwork of its sculpted pillars as well as the fountain that once held a statue of the Emperor Trajan.

Across the street from the fountain are some of the most lavish homes of the elite Ephesians. The astounding floor tiles remain intact and display the wealth of the families that once lived here. Directly behind these Terrace Homes is a covered area where artifacts and additional research is being conducted. There is an additional charge to visit this small museum where audio recordings escort visitors through amazing frescoes, mosaics, and fountains that rival those of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The tour of Ephesus is not without its elements of surprise. We arrived at a small area where slabs of marble line up against the wall and learned that they were used as public latrines. There are about forty seats, sitting side-by-side. Our guide explained that the public restrooms were important for conducting business between the men.
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The long awaited moment arrived as the Library of Celsus appeared in the distance. A grand structure rising from the ruins, this large two-story structure towered over us as we approached its stairway. The preservation of the library is extraordinary and the details of this building that has been so elegantly preserved.

The glorious marble columns framed the four statues of the library’s façade. Each figure represented the human characteristics of wisdom, excellence, judgment and expertise. It was customary that families of financial means and power would establish monuments or heroons to honor their loved ones. The Library of Celsus was a dedication to Julius Celsus Polemeanus by his son, erected in the early 2^nd century AD.

Inside of the Library of Celsus, we were met with a surprisingly simple structure that contrasted the splendid façade of the building’s exterior. In the ancient world, it was one of the largest libraries housing upwards to 15,000 scrolls. Along the inner walls were recesses that contained rolled manuscripts. This is also the burial place of Celsus, whose vault is located below the ground floor on the north side of the building.

I love the history of large cities such as Ephesus, especially those stories that involve scandal and intrigue. Our tour guide shows us an unassuming tunnel which was, according to legend, a secret passageway. It was said that the men of Ephesus would tell their wives that they were going to the library when in fact they would escape into the local brothel. There is some debate to this theory as the attitude towards sexuality was quite open during this time, but it still makes for a great story.

There were three arches that led out towards the Agora and Grand Theater of Ephesus called the Gates of Mazaeus and Mitridades, named after the slaves that built them. With their prominent Roman style architecture, the gates were built as a dedication to Emperor Augustus. Statues of his family could be seen towering above the arches on the attica, while a relief of the Hecate, the god of crossroads was prominent on the outer walls of the structure. Some sources refer to an inscription that was written on the gates which curses “those that piss here”. I wonder how well that deterred the locals.

Standing in the archway of the gate, I looked out into the Agora where shops once lined the courtyard and stalls were set up in the infield. I imagined the bustling square with the smell of food, domestic animals and sweating bodies crowding into the shopping plaza to make their purchases. This was once one of the most important trading centers in all of Ephesus.

Located just off of the Agora is The Great Theater. At the height of Ephesus’ prosperity, it was one of the largest theaters in the Roman-Greco world.

Following the death of Jesus, His apostles left Jerusalem to spread Christianity to the world. St. John arrived in Ephesus with Mary, the mother of Jesus, somewhere between 37 to 48 AD. John is credited for establishing the first Christian community here. John would later be exiled to Patmos, spending his remaining years on the Greek island.

St. Paul put Ephesus on the map when he arrived around 54 AD, staying for nearly three and a half years and wrote his letters here, including a letter to the Ephesian Christians. Ephesus was also included in his missionary tour and the story of his visit is detailed in the Bible, making it a stop for Christian pilgrimages as well.

Today it is one of the most visited by Christians around the world.

Viewing the theater from below is astounding, but I knew that if I climbed to the top, I would have an extraordinary view of the former harbor and surrounding area. Climbing up the rows of seats, I waited until I reached the top before turning around. Here I was rewarded with a dramatic, overwhelming view of the theater, hills and Harbor Street leading away from the city.

Through all of its splendor, I still find it somewhat difficult to imagine this lively, prosperous city of Ephesus regardless of its extraordinary restoration. This site holds not only historical significance, but biblical and archaeological importance as well. Researchers continue to excavate the city of Ephesus which provides a doorway into the lives of those that once lived here. I look forward to the time when I can return and learn what interesting facts they uncover.

Are you a fan of archaeological sites? What draws you to them? I would love to hear which historical locations you find interesting and inspiring if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks for reading about my fascinating journey to Ephesus and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ephesus Archaeological Site
Ataturk Mh
Ugur Mumcu Sevgi Yolu
35920 Selcuk/Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 444 MUZE (6893)

Admission Fee: 60 Turkish Lira; children 12 and under is free of charge.
Hours: The museum is open April – October from 8AM to 7PM, and November 1 – April 15 from 8AM to 5PM
Amenities: Pre-purchase of ticket online, The Terrace Homes (additional cost)
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the Celsus Library and scenes of the surrounding are are spectacular from the arena
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as there is limited cover from the sun. One can purchase tickets ahead of time. Private tours can also be purchased at the door. Wear comfortable shoes for walking. You will notice several cats that live at the site.

Where to Stay:

Livia Hotel Ephesus
Ataturk Mah. 1045 Sok. No. 25
Izmir, 39520, Selcuk, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 892 92 99

Where to Eat:

Artemis Restaurant
Sirince Mahallesi, Sehit Yuksel
Ozulku Caddesi No. 7
35920, Sirince, Selcuk, Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 898 32 40

I absolutely love the property surrounding the restaurant, near olive groves and vineyards. The 19th century stone building was once a village school

What to Eat:

- Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
- Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
- Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
- Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
- Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
- Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
- Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
- Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
- Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
- Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

The Ephesus Scroll by Ben Chenoweth
Burning of the Books at Ephesus by Sir James Thornhill
Ancient Ephesus: The History and Legacy of One of Antiquity’s Greatest Cities by Charles River Editors

Photo Guide for Ancient Ephesus:

The Facade of the Celsus Library
View from the Amphitheater

Another view of the Grand Theater and Harbor Street, Ephesus

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

The Home of the Bighorn Sheep, Anza-Borrego

15 July 202319 April 2025

The Anza-Borrego Desert is one of my favorite places in Southern California to hike. Located about two hours east of San Diego, the Anza-Borrego is a perfect location to experience geological diversity as well as explore the flora and fauna of a desert environment.

First stop in Julian, CA prior to entering the Anza Borrego Park

Before reaching the entrance into the state park, I couldn’t resist a stop in charming Julian. This “one-horse” town is a welcome oasis from the long, uneventful drive from the city. Designated as a California Historical Landmark, it was once a thriving gold rush settlement in the early 1800s. My favorite place to stop is Julian Pie Company on Main Street and bring home a pie or two.

Apple trees were first brought to Julian when settlers arrived hoping to strike it rich with the gold rush. The fruit crops thrived in the fresh mountain air and Julian has since been known for its world-famous apple pies.

The origin of the park’s name, Anza-Borrego, is Spanish. Anza represents an 18^th century Spanish explorer who roamed the desert area and the word Borrego means bighorn sheep. It is the largest park in the state of California and I found myself a little lost at times, not only in its beauty, but within its wide open spaces.

There are close to 500 miles of dirt roads and over 100 miles of hiking trails. Since I was coming from San Diego, I entered the park from state route 79, passing through the Laguna Mountains.

My favorite part of the drive was watching the landscape appear in the twists and turns of my route. I pulled over to capture multiple peaks framed by the rocky hills rising up on each side of the road. The desert landscape showed only a hint of green even during my spring visit in March and I imagined that it would be extremely hot and unbearable during the summer months.

Because the park is named after the bighorn sheep, I was desperately hoping to see one. I imagined watching them climb the steep cliffs sure-footed and quick, but unfortunately, they were nowhere to be found. The park is home to animals such as the kit fox, mule deer, coyotes, red diamond rattlesnakes, roadrunners as well as jackrabbits.

Approaching the exit of the park, I wondered what types of animals lived here during prehistoric times. With a little research, I learned that paleontologists and archaeologists have uncovered evidence of large birds, sloths and cheetahs, saber-toothed cats and camels.

I could spend hours at Anza Borrego and often found myself wanting to return for a weekend camping trip. I imagined the park full of exotic animals that once roamed these desert mountains. I was somewhat disappointed that during all of the times I have visited, I had not seen any of its spectacular wildlife. There was plenty of brown vegetation and it was such a welcome site to pass the red blooming ocotillo plant. Proof that life could have actually survived here.

Is there a location that gives you the opportunity to reflect and escape? Have you visited the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park? I would love to hear about your experience here if you would kindly leave you comment in the section below! Many thanks for reading about my lovely day at Anza and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Anza-Borrego State Park
Borrego Springs, CA 92004
Telephone: 760 767 4205

Admission Fee: There is no charge for visiting Anza Borrego Desert State Park
Hours: Open daily from dawn to dusk; The visitor center is open seven days a week from 9AM to 5PM.
Amenities: Camping, hiking, biking, horseback riding, historical/cultural site, picnic areas, parking
Scenic View: The vista point provides scenic views of the park.
Length of Visit: Over 3 hours
Tips for Your Visit: February and March are the best times to visit to see the spring flowers. Cellular and internet service may be limited at times. Make sure you have plenty of water and snacks and that you fuel up your vehicle before entering the park. Because this is the desert, make sure you have plenty of sunscreen as temperatures can be very warm.

Where to Stay:

Julian Gold Rush Hotel
2032 Main Street, PO Box 1856
Julian, CA 92036
Telephone: 760 765 0201

Where to Eat:

Julian Pie Company
2225 Main Street
Julian, CA 92036
Telephone: 760 765 2449

What to Eat:

Pie, lots of pie….

What to Read:

The Anza-Borrego Desert Region: A Guide to State Park and Adjacent Areas of the Western Colorado Desert, by Diana Lindsay and Lowell Lindsay
Anza-Borrego A to Z, by Diana Lindsay
Hiking Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, by Bill Cunningham and Polly Cunningham
House of the Fox: An Art Mystery Set in California’s Anza-Borrego Desert, by Cornelia Feye

Photo Guide for the Anza-Borrego Desert:

Font’s Point for a scenic overlook of the badlands
Borrego Palm Canyon for a lovely group of palms which can be reached by A-Z’s most famous hike.
Borrego Springs, a small town located inside of the park for the stars and unusual artwork by Ricardo Breceda
Native American artwork can be seen throughout the park and it is estimated that there are over 50 major art rock sites to include Pictograph Trail in Little Blair Valley.
Ghost Mountain to see writer Marshal South’s homestead ruins.
The wildflowers of spring

Julian Lodge, Bed & Breakfast

Evidence of Fire at the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

The Site of Olympia and its Role in the Olympic Games

15 May 20233 May 2025

Watching the Olympic Games as I child, I always admired watching the gymnasts during the Summer Games and favored the ice skating competition in the winter. As a family, we would cheer on our favorite contenders and anxiously await the results of the victor, much similar to the ancient games that first took place in the city of Olympia, Greece.

Olympia is a popular day trip from the port of Katakalon, a cruise ship port in the Peloponnese district of Greece. Entering the location of the original Olympic Games, we had the opportunity to watch archaeologists continue their work in uncovering the gymnasium site of these ancient ruins.

It is amazing to consider that the first Olympic Games began in 776 BC during the Bronze Age as a religious festival in honor of the Greek mythical god, Zeus. Ironically, just off into the distance is Kronos Hill, the location which the Greeks consider to be the birthplace of Zeus. According to the Greek mythology, Zeus is the god of the sky, lightning and thunder, law, order and justice.

The site of Olympia is a compound with numerous buildings in association with the competitive games. We strolled past the Prytaneion, the building for which the presiding officers of the game would welcome the competitors. Athletes from miles away would journey to this location to compete, which was an honor not only to themselves, but to the villages for which they were representing.

Because the Olympic Games took place over several days, the athletes would arrive weeks prior to the competition for training. It is for this reason that the Gymnasium was built as temporary lodging for the competitors until after the games were completed.

A dedicated training area and separate living quarters from all other athletes were built for the wrestlers, boxers and long jumpers called the Palaistra. It was here were the pankratiasts would train and was an event where these “all In” fighters would fight to the death, a popular event of the Olympics and similar to the Ultimate Fighting Championships of today.

Our next stop was a visit to Pheidias’ workshop and it was one of my favorite locations on the site. Phieidias was the great artist known for building the 40 foot gold statue of Zeus, housed in the temple’s inner room. A Byzantine church was built over this site, but when excavations were conducted in this location, there was a cup that was excavated with the notation, “I belong to Pheidias”. The archaeological items from his workshop are located in the museum, a short walking distance from the ancient ruins.

From Pheidias’ workshop we could see an enormous structure with one column which has been identified as the temple to Zeus. He was the king of all Greek gods as well as the patron of the Olympic Games. It was the largest of the Greek temples during its time, with 34 colossal Doric columns, measuring 6 stories high. A replica of the temple and photo of the Statue of Zeus is located in the archaeological museum.

Throughout the Olympic site there were various pedestals for which statues were displayed. A lone standing pillar measuring 29 feet tall once supported the goddess of Nike, who represents victory. The column remains but the statue was moved to the archaeological museum to protect it from the environment.

Winning the Olympic Games was a big deal in Greece and winning three times elevated the athletes to god status. Various columns were erected to display statues of these newly appointed gods. The winners would also be showered with gifts back home and songs would be written about them.

Unfortunately for the losers, public humiliation was just as intense. It was said that many would go into hiding to escape from the embarrassment of facing their friends, family and fellow countrymen.

What I found interesting at Olympia was, in addition to honoring the winners of the games, the cheaters were publicly called-out with their own displays. There are a total of sixteen “Bases of Zanes” which were inscribed with the name of the cheater and their offense. It was intended to remain here for all to see for generations and was a way to humiliate the families as well as the offender. It was said that people would spit on the stones as they entered the stadium. Some of the offenses included the use of forbidden herbs, drinking of animals blood, taking bribes, and quitting the games.

Prior to entering the stadium, there was a terrace where the Row of Treasuries was located. This building housed the expensive offerings that were collected from the spectators of the Olympic Games and the currency of these items were used to support the maintenance of the grounds and for building additional structures.

Another feature located up on the hill were the remains of the Nymphaeum. This impressive fountain served as an oasis to the visitors and athletes at the Olympic Games. Inside of the Nymphaeum was a statue of a bull, which can be viewed at the Olympia Archaeological Museum.

Soon, we found ourselves nearing the location where the Olympic foot races took place and we passed through the archway where many talented athletes entered before us. The 100 foot tunnel leading to the stadium (or stadion) was called the Krypte (a vaulted corridor), and was the official entrance for both the judges as well as the athletes. The recesses along the side of the tunnel served as a type of “locker” for the athletes. The Krypte was also known as the “secret entrance”.

Walking into the stadium was an exhilarating feeling as I approached the starting line. Flanking the 640 foot clay track are two hills which could seat over 40,000 people to watch the athletes compete in their respective sport. There is a small stonelike structure to the left of the starting line, about halfway down the field. It was here that the goddess Demeter Chamyne would sit on her altar as the only woman permitted to attend the competition. On the opposite side of the altar was the Judge’s Box. It was the designated seating area for elected local nobles who acted as referees (Hellanodikai) during the Games. At the starting line, there are 20 blocks made of white marble, each with two grooves for the feet of the athletes preparing for their race. It is a fun exercise for visitors to stand on their mark, get set and go, running downfield towards the end of the track.

There were several structures that had played an important role in the festivities of the Olympic Games over the years. One of these was the Altar of Hera. Not much remains of the Altar, but it functioned as the location of the ceremonial “Lighting of the Olympic Flame”. It was here where the select, local Greek women would commence the celebration dressed as priestesses, performing ritualistic dances in honor of the gods. Once the torch had been lit, the light would begin its long trek from Olympia ending its journey in the city that will host the Olympic Games. This ceremony signifies the official start of the contemporary Olympic Games and is televised months before the athletic competitions begin.

In close vicinity to the altar is the The Temple of Hera which is the oldest structure in the sanctuary. It dates back to 630 BC, with dimensions of 61 feet wide and 164 feet long. Inside of the temple were statues of Hera, the wife of the Greek god Zeus. Impressive artifacts from the temple include a statue of Hermes and the Disk of the Sun, both of which can be seen in the museum.

Sitting among the shaded trees in proximity to the Temple of Hera is the Philippeion, which is said to have been built during the Hellenistic era. The structure was designed as a memorial to Philip the Great, the ruler of Macedonia and father to Alexander the Great, who would one day create one of the largest empires of the ancient world. The circular edifice displayed statues of Philip and his family and was the first building that visitors would see upon entering Olympia.

After our tour we were provided the opportunity to explore the grounds and additional buildings on site. Walking back towards Kronos Hill, I noticed a well preserved structure which was known as the Leonidaion. Named after an affluent Naxian, Leonidas, it served as a guest house for the wealthy spectators as well as the visiting officials. Our scheduled time at leisure was minimal so that we would have the opportunity to visit the treasures that are housed at the Olympia Archaeological Museum. Knowing that this site was well-preserved due to its abandonment in the 4^th century BC, I could not wait to see the artifacts. Stay tuned for Part II of my exploration of Olympia, Greece which highlights the amazing relics on display at the museum, uncovered at this spectacular archaeological site.

What is your favorite sport of the winter and summer Olympics? Have you visited the city of Olympia? I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my excursion to the site of the original Olympic Games! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ancient Olympia
PC 27 065
Olympia
Telephone: +30 26240 22742

Admission Fee: 12 Euros from April to October and 6 Euros from November to March.
Hours: Open from April 1 to October 31. From November 1 to March 31 from 8AM to 3PM.
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the ancient ruins of Olympia and view of Knossos Hill
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as tours come in during the afternoon. Wear comfortable shoes for walking, bring bottled water and snacks as there are no options available until you enter the Archaeological Museum.

Where to Stay:

Bacchus
Arhaia Pissa 10,
Archea Olimpia , 270, 65
Greece
Telephone: +30 2624 022298

Where to Eat:

Bacchus Tavern
Arhaia Pissa 10,
Archea Olimpia , 270, 65
Greece
Telephone: +30 2624 022298

I ordered a mix of appetizers which included the Dolmadakia (grape leaves stuffed with rice), Tyropitakia (feta cheese wrapped in a puff pastry) and the Rolakia (smoked bacon and cheese wrapped in puff pastry) and a bottle of Malagousia Assyrtiko wine, locally produced in Olympia.

What to Eat:

Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
Choriatiki: Greek salad
Dolmadakia/Dolmades: stuffed grape leaves
Ellinikos: Greek coffee
Gyros
Kataifi: similar to baklava, but rolled
Moussaka: Greek’s answer to lasagna
Pastitsio: pasta made with noodles, ground beef and a bechamel sauce
Retsina Wine: has been made over 2000 years
Souvlaki: meat on a skewer
Spanikopita: pastry filled with spinach and cheese
Tzatziki: a Greek sauce made with yogurt, garlic, olive oil and fresh dill

What to Read:

Olympia: The Story of the Ancient Games, by Robin Waterfield
Race Through Time! Kid’s Guide to Olympia, Greece by Penelope Dyan
The Olympic Games in Ancient Greece – Ancient Olympia and the Olympic Games, by Nicolaos Yalouris

Santorini: Life on a Volcano
Mykonos, Greece: Whitewashed and Wild
The Island of Delos: A Lesson in Greek Mythology
Corfu…the Favorite Vacation Destination for an Empress
Corinth, a Biblical and Historical Perspective
The Archaeological Museum at Olympia
Athens, Greece: A Living Museum

The Island of Delos: A Lesson in Greek Mythology

1 May 20233 May 2025

As the cruise ship arrived in Mykonos, I learned that I could board a ferry to Delos, the island of the gods. I immediately approached the kiosk to pick up my ticket since I had not made previous arrangements and tickets sell out fast. In only a couple of hours I would be departing on the MV Delos Express and exploring the uninhabited island considered the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.

As the ferry approached the island, I was overwhelmed by the number of ruins sprawled out across acres of land. I purchased my ticket to enter the archaeological site and was provided a map of Delos. Local guides were on hand for an additional charge to those visitors who were interested in personal tours.

I began my adventure searching for the Temples of Apollo and Artemis. Greek mythology revolves around the story of this brother and sister duo and their temples which were of most importance. The Temple of Apollo once housed the Treasury of Greece until it was relocated in the 5th century BC. Even after the island was abandoned, Greeks continued to visit the temple for the annual Panegyris festival in spring. The remains of the temple are sparse, but visitors can see the giant marble pedestal which once displayed the 35-foot Apollo statue.

Since the 1st century AD, the island was left abandoned and excavations by French archaeologists began in 1872. By then, the island of Delos was completely covered in silt and only one-fifth of the site has been uncovered. So much more to be discovered.

The Lion Terrace was undoubtedly one of the most fascinating sites on the island. Mythological legend claims that the statues were provided by the island of Naxos to guard the Sacred Lake as Leto gave birth to the twins. Replicas of the lions continue to watch over the lake, while the originals are housed in the nearby archaeological museum.

At the Sacred Lake stands the palm tree of Leto. It is said that Hera took hold of this tree while in labor with the twins, giving birth first to Artemis and then her brother Apollo. The lake no longer exists because it was drained by the French archaeologists to prevent bacterial disease and other dangerous organisms from growing.

Where once stood the Temple of Dionysus, is now the Phallus of Apollo. Not only was the phallus a symbol of Dionysus, It was erected as a representation of Apollo, the god of Patros (the father of all), the progenitor of the male ancestor, the symbol of fertility.

A residential area stands to the south of the island where a neighborhood of homes were discovered. During excavations, the archaeologists have determined the wealth of these families based upon the beautiful floor mosaics. The minuscule tiles and delicate delicate artwork have survived over many years, protected by the silt. The museum houses additional floor mosaics to shield them from the impacts of weather and the salty environment.

I can see Mount Kynthos on the left as I navigate through the network of streets in this ancient neighborhood of sorts. Once a bustling port town, the island of Delos was home to over 30,000 residents and an estimated 3,000 shops.

Through the maze, I found the Dolphin House known for its spectacular dolphin mosaic with a circle enclosed by a square. It is one of two mosaics that were signed by its original artist. The gorgeous mosaic in the House of Dionysos shows the winged goddess riding a tiger and is an amazing example of Hellenistic art. Within the House of Trident, the perfectly refurbished floor mosaic displays a dolphin, wrapped around an anchor.

Within walking distance was the Theater at Delos which seated approximately 5,000 spectators. In need of extensive repair, even in its current state, one could see the magnitude of its size.

The island of Delos was the home to Mount Kynthos (in the background) which rises 375 feet and is the highest point on the island. Unfortunately I did not have enough time to climb up to the top of the mountain to see the remains of the Temple to Zeus and Athena but I heard other ferry passengers discussing their spectacular view from its peak.

It was decreed by the Athenians in the sixth century BC that no one could be born or die here. The residents at the time were relocated to a nearby island, Rinia to keep the island of Delos pure for the gods.

Just as I had expected, my excursion to Delos was well worth the visit. I took the time on the ferry back to imagine the island with inhabitants and wished I could have seen it in its prime. An island dedicated to the gods? Not a bad place to be born.

What are your thoughts on Delos? Have you been to the island? I would love to hear from you if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Island of Delos accessible by Naxos, Mykonos or private yacht.

Admission Fee: 12 Euros if you are not paying for a guided tour; Guided tours are 50 Euros.
Hours: The earliest ferry departs from Mykonos at 10 AM while the last ferry from Delos to Mykonos departs at 7:30 PM. Another ferry departs at 1:30PM, so if you are traveling by cruise ship, you will want to ensure that you select the early ferry.
Scenic View: Amazing views of ancient civilization and the amazing colors of the harbor.
Length of Visit: 3 hours or more to explore the ruins, climb Mt. and visit the museum.
Travel Tip: You must ensure you take the correct ferry whether you are arriving to the island of Mykonos by cruise ship or visiting the island on your own. There are no accommodations on the island and for many years the island does not allow overnight stays.

Where to Stay:

Not available on the island of Delos

Where to Eat:

There is a cafe on the island, but the food is basic and a bit overpriced, Either bring something with you or snacks or wait until you return to your original location.

For more information about the beautiful country of Greece, visit my following links!

Santorini: Life on a Volcano
Mykonos: Whitewashed and Wild
Corfu: An Old Town, Palace and Monastery
Corinth, A Biblical and Historical Perspective
The Site of Olympia and its Role in the Olympic Games
The Archaeological Museum at Olympia
Athens, Greece: A Living Museum

Catching Up with Cats at the Divine Felines Exhibit, Cincinnati

15 September 201616 September 2024

Having just visited the Pharaoh Exhibit at the Cleveland Museum of Art, I was excited to learn that the Cincinnati Art Museum would be showcasing their own Egyptian display titled “Divine Felines”. Presenting artifacts from Egypt with a cat theme, I could not wait to make the trek down to Cincinnati to learn more about the ancient domestication of my favorite animal.

Recumbent Lion, Ptolomaic Period, 305 – 35BC, Reportedly from Giza

Cats, both domestic and wild, played an important role in the every day lives of the ancient Egyptians representing symbols of protection, fertility, beauty and sexuality. For example, the resting lion symbolized the country’s tranquility as well as the confidence and power of the king. Stones or glass were embedded into the eyes of the sculptures to show the watchful nature of the mysterious feline.

Lion shaped furniture leg, during the reign of Aspelta, 690-664 BC

According to archaeologists, the ancient Egyptians were the first to use the image of cats as elements of architectural design. Cats and lions were found carved in items that were used on a daily basis to include furniture, weapons and cosmetic items.

Fragmentary Inscription, Dynasty 25 – Dynasty 26, 670 – 650 BC

Pictures and paintings of lions were a common theme in Egyptian hieroglyphs. At least four images of lions were utilized as one of many animal shapes represented in hieroglyphic designs. These shapes include the standing lion, recumbent lion, full-bodied lion, the forepart lion which included its front legs and head as well as the hind parts of the lion (its legs and tail).

Sculptor’s Model Bust of a Lion, Ptolomaic Period

The Egyptians were fascinated by the prowess of the lions, their ferocity and ability to move quickly. Considered positive qualities that were often used to describe Egyptian gods and Pharaohs, these characteristics were the primary attributes that symbolized their divinity and royal standing.

Necklace with Bes and Taweret Pendants, Dynasty 18, 1539 – 1292 BC

Jewels made into the likeness of Bes, the goddess of fertility and protection, were worn by women of child-bearing age or during their pregnancy. These trinkets were used to ensure the safe-keeping of the child until birth. Bes was depicted as a man with a lion’s head and tail. The images also took on the form of a lioness or a woman with a lion’s head, representing the daughter of Ra, the Sun god.

Roman Period, 1^st Century Reportedly from Saqqara, Egypt

Tutu was the male equivalent of Bes, taking the form of a pacing sphinx with the tail of a snake. He was known for protecting the dead in the Afterworld and for taking charge of one’s fate.

Coffin of a Cat, Late Period, Dynasty 26 – Dynasty 31, 664 BC- 332 BC, or later

The Sarcophagus of a cat mummy showed the importance of cats as pets to the ancient Egyptians. According to the placard, “Most cat mummies were buried in either rectangular or cat shaped coffins made of wood. Carved from costly limestone and decorated with scenes that typically appear on coffins of humans, this sarcophagus may have belonged to a pet cat. A scene on the shorter side to your left shows the deceased cat in front of an offering table, flanked by the goddesses Isis and Nephthys. Isis protectively spreads her wings around one of the longer sides of the sarcophagus.”

Roundel, 5^th Century BC, depicting dogs as pets

Just as cats were highly regarded by the Egyptians as both pets and deities, dogs and jackals also had a place in the lives of the ancient Egyptians. The dog’s ability to protect its territory and their loyalty to their owners were attributes that were important to the rulers. Evidence of dogs as pets can be traced back to the 5^th millennium BC.

In addition to Tutu, there were several dog deities including Wepwewat, a god that would lead the dead through the passages of the Underworld and provided them protection. The name means “Opener of the Ways” and comes from the dog’s keen sense of smell and its ability to escape danger.

Anubia was another dog deity that was so named due to the dog’s extreme sense of smell. He was responsible for protecting the deceased in the Underworld.

According to the museum, a fragment on display “represents Anubia lying on the top of shrines, coffins, or canopic chests, which were boxes containing jars with the internal organs of the deceased.” It was difficult to determine if the figures were those of dogs or jackals, as both were portrayed as black.

Even as late as the 2^nd Century when Rome ruled over Egypt, the influence of Egyptian gods were present in the carvings of the Roman-Egyptian cities. As depicted in the funerary stela of C. Julius Valerius, the Egyptian god Horus and the Roman-Greco god Nemesis were present as well as the dog, representing either Anubis or Wepwawet. Just as in the Egyptian culture, the dog led and guarded the deceased through the Afterworld.

It was not surprising that the characteristics of both cats and dogs were highly admired by the Egyptians. Independent or loyal, swift or sassy, the importance of these furry friends continues even into today’s culture.

In addition to the Egyptian exhibit, I learned the museum was hosting a “Modern Cats” collection. With over 20 pieces on display, the artwork was added to demonstrate the “lasting appeal of the domestic feline”. I enjoyed exploring the cat-themed pieces proving that even today, cats are an important part of our global culture.

Which attributes of your pet also resemble your character? Are you surprised that the Egyptian culture developed a fondness for cats in their religion and everyday lives? I would love to hear your thoughts if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my visit to the Cincinnati Art Museum to check out the Divine Felines Exhibit. Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Cincinnati Art Museum
953 Eden Park Drive
Cincinnati, OH 45202
Telephone: 513 721 2787

Admission Fee: General Admission is Free. Special Event Ticket Pricing is $12 for Adults, $6 for Seniors (60+), Students and Children (6-17) and children under 5 are FREE. Exhibit hours on Thursday from 5 PM- 8 PM is free. Contact the museum’s website for holiday closures.
Hours: Open Tuesday – Sunday from 11AM to 5PM; Closed Monday and open Thursdays from 11AM to 8PM. Closed on Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.
Amenities: Terrace Cafe, Mary R. Schiff Library, museum shop, Rosenthal Educational Center, gallery map and guides and MyCAM Art Hunts
Length of Visit: 1 to 2 hours, or additional time for special exhibits
Tips for Your Visit: Ensure that you have visited the website to confirm that the museum is open, as it may be closed for special events.

Where to Stay:

Millennium Hotel Cincinnati
150 W. 5th Street
Cincinnati, OH 45202
Telephone: 513 352 2100

Where to Eat:

Mt. Adams Bar and Grill
938 Hatch Street
Cincinnati, OH 45202
Telephone: 513 621 3666

I ordered the Fried Jalapeno Ravioli served with marinara sauce.

What to Eat:

Skyline Chili: My go-to meal at Skyline is the 4-way chili with onion served with oyster crackers and hot sauce. I always pick up two York peppermint patties after cashing out. Cincinnati chili is a beef based sauce served over spaghetti noodles and cheese. Additional toppings include onions and beans.
LaRosa’s Pizza: A local chain pizzeria, this Sicilian style pie is made with a sweet crust and sauce. My favorite menu item is the Caprese pesto Flatbread Pizza.
Graeter’s Ice Cream: It’s the French Pot process that makes Graeter’s Ice Cream so decadent and rich. Towards the end of the process, they pour chocolate into the mix creating large chunks of yummy goodness.
Montgomery Inn BBQ: Visiting the original Montgomery Inn BBQ at the boathouse is a culinary and scenic experience. Their ribs are served with a sweet and tangy sauce that has since made them the “Ribs King” and a favorite among locals. Load up on their amazing BBQ flavored Saratoga chips,
Glier’s Goetta: While it looks like a slab of corn beef hash, this breakfast staple is made of sausage and oats, cooked until crispy. Most breakfast restaurants carry it as a side, especially the local cafes and diners.
BonBonerie: One of the most decadent pastry shops in Cincinnati, their rich confections are absolutely amazing.

Where to Drink:

Moerlein Lager House
115 Joe Nuxhall Way
Cincinnati, OH 45202
Telephone: 513 421 2337

Books to Read:

Eligible: A Modern Retelling of Pride & Prejudice, by Curtis Sittenfeld
Running, by J.T. Cooper
Dead Witch Walking, by Kim Harrison
Beloved, by Toni Morrison
Double Dutch, by Sharon M. Draper
Romiette and Julio, by Sharon M. Draper

Photo Guide for Cincinnati (as provided by Chris Thompson on FourSquare):

The John A Roebling Suspension Bridge
- Pick a spot near the Covington pier and shoot north toward the Cincinnati skyline. Shoot at sunset and underexpose by a few stops to get the lights just right.
- The new lights on the bridge create excellent stars when you photograph them using a narrow aperture (~f/16 and above) on your camera. That means you’ll need a longer exposure (and thus a tripod).
General James Taylor Park
- Shoot from the top of the flag pole mound to get more building reflections in your shot. Shoot at sunset or sunrise for great lighting.
Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal
- Arrive first thing in the morning when the sun is coming up
The Fountain at Fountain Square
- For great photos of the fountain: set your camera on a tripod and use a long exposure (2-5 seconds) to capture the running water. Get Carew or the colored lights above Rock Bottom in the background.
Fountain Square (look for reflections in puddles)
Celestial Restaurant in Mount Adams – The restaurant is now closed, but you may still be able to use the parking lot.
Carew Tower Observation Deck
- Provides some neat photos of the highways snaking around the city. Set your camera on a tripod and use a long exposure to get moving car trails. It’s only open at sunset a few days each year.
Engine Company 46, 2733 Erie Avenue (at Michigan), Cincinnati
- One of the most beautiful historic firehouses in all of Cincinnati. The firefighters here are used to having their photo taken while they work. Ask nicely and you can get some cool shots.
Cincinnati Observatory Center
Krohn Conservatory
Great American Ball Park
- Shoot the front of the stadium around sunset to get a nice color blue in the sky. Get one of the player statues in your shot for extra effect.
Devou Park
- The overlook next to the Drees pavilion affords a great view of the Cincinnati skyline. Shoot at sunrise or sunset for the best lighting. Underexpose slightly to get the city lights just right.
Newport Central Catholic for fireworks
- Shoot the Riverfest fireworks from this location. Bring a long lens and a tripod. You’ll want a long-ish exposure (5-10 seconds) to capture the bursts, but make sure the skyline isn’t overexposed.
Riverfront Park
- The colorful fountains make a great subject, but you need to use a relatively fast shutter speed (>1/20 or so) to catch the lights before they change color, leaving your pic with plain white lights.
American Sign Museum
- Be sure to bring a tripod to capture all the signs. Manual white balance is the way to go, because there are so many crazy colors of lights that your camera won’t know how to react.

Figurine of a Cat during the Late Period Dynasty 26 – Dynasty 31, 664-332 BC or later

Modern Cat Exhibit

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