A Tour of San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro

21 May 201821 September 2024

San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro is the iconic representation of a city rich with history and architecture. The fort, also known as El Morro, has lasted over 400 years, protecting the southwestern side of the island from invaders and pirates. But what was the reason that a fort was built here in the first place? It was strategically located between the continent of Europe and the New World where ships could seek shelter, water and supplies and it was determined, that occupation of this land would give wealth to the country that controlled this entrance into the Caribbean Sea.

It was in 1493 when Christopher Columbus came to the island and first claimed it for Spain. Puerto Rico would later fall to the British and Dutch, but only for very short periods of time. During the Dutch attack in 1623, hundreds of Dutch and Spanish soldiers gave their lives. It wasn’t until the 1800’s that Spain would cede ownership of the island to the United States of America, ending the Spanish-American War.

As I walked through the Greek-style entrance into the fort, I noticed the thick walls that gave an extra depth to the fortification of the city. It would take Spain over 250 years to build El Morro. The structure that stands today is similar to the how the fort would have looked in 1790.

I was so interested in the structure of the fort that I hardly noticed the large iguanas on the interior lawn of El Morro. I also noticed them climbing up the fortress wall and stopped a few times to take a closer look because they were camouflaged so well.

As I crossed the bridge into El Morro, I entered Level 5 of the six levels of the fort. Looking up from this level there were three flags representing the Spanish Army, Puerto Rico and the United States of America.

The cannons were a reminder of the importance of this fort in times when it was occupied to defend the island. Many of them used bronze 8-pound cannonballs that took eight to ten artillerymen to operate them. Their strategy was to fire the cannons every thirty seconds, reaching targets a mile away.

The kitchen was a very important part of the lives of the soldiers. Meals were prepared here using ingredients such as fish and cured meat that came from Spain. When the meat arrived, it was inedible so the soldiers soaked it with vegetables and spices creating a type of stew. It is said that this is the origin of sancocho, a stew that remains popular both in Puerto Rico as well as other Spanish-speaking countries.

After visiting many of the rooms, including the powder room, on the fifth floor, I took the ramp up to the sixth floor to see the area known as the “Land Defense”.

From the level six of the fort, it was easy to see why this floor would be considered a strong area of defense. With the evidence of cannons stationed here, there was little space between each one, guaranteed to hit their targets coming in from the sea.

It wasn’t until 1846 that the first of four lighthouses (two would be rebuilt) at El Morro were erected to provide safe passage for ships into and out of the harbor of San Juan. Prior to the restoration of the lighthouse that currently stands on El Morro, the previous house was made out of red brick and was in desperate need of repair.

I couldn’t help but notice the spectacular view from Level 6 of El Morro and imagined an invasion of ships heading toward us in the distance.

Next, I took the stairs down to the lower level. At this point, I was heading toward the Cannon Water Battery. It was here where I found the remaining cannons on display and the embrasures from which the cannons were fired.

There was a medieval watch tower in the center of the battery. Known as the Torre Antigua, some believe it may be haunted.

Looking over the wall, I could see another fort out into the horizon at the end of Isla de Cabras (Goat Island). This is El Morro’s sister fort, San Juan de la Cruz, translated as St. John of the Cross. It was strategically placed here to create crossfire in the event that ships would try to slip past El Morro on the far side of the channel. This small fort is also referred to as El Canuelo.

From this vantage point, I clearly understood the importance of this area in defense of the island and how important it was for protecting San Juan.

The view from the top of the fort emphasized the complicated structure of El Morro. The worn away, weathered stone and its height gave it the sense of strength and might. The thickness of the walls provided a sense of wonder and impenetrability.

I came across a structure that seemed more updated and out of place. I learned that this was once an Observation Post which was used during WWII. After the Second War, El Morro would no longer act as a military base.

Continuing my climb up the fort, I noticed where the cannons would have been placed and the circular patterns that they created when moved to the left or right to hit their target out in the ocean.

El Morro is unlike any fortress I have seen throughout the United States. It was built and designed to protect the city and remains an iconic figure to San Juan. There have been several forts along the American coasts, but this is one of the most fascinating and well preserved.

Have you had the opportunity to visit El Morro? What are your thoughts about this expansive structure? I would love to hear what you liked most about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about our exploration of El Morro and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro
501 Norzagaray Street
San Juan, PR 00901
Telephone: 787 729 6754

Admission Fee: $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 6PM. Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Amenities: Gift shop and restrooms
Scenic Views: Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
Length of Visit: 2 – 3 hours
Tips for Your Visit: There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises. Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water. (Carts outside sell water).

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas Old San Juan
202 Calle San Jose
San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Telephone: 787 722 9191

Amenities: Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

Where to Eat:

Cafe El Punto
105 Calle Fortaleza
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Telephone: 787 725 1306

I can’t resist ordering the local dish, mofongo where the main ingredient is fried plantains most likely served with a healthy helping of meat such as chicken, beef or seafood.

What to Eat:

MOFONGO! This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan. Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
Pastelon: San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.

Where to Drink:

Marilyn’s Place
100 Calle San Francisco
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901

What to Read:

The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
The House on the Lagoon by Rosario Ferre
Simone by Eduardo Lalo
Mundo Cruel by Luis Negron
La Llamarada by Enrique Laguerre
Song of the Simple Truth by Julia de Burgos

Photo Guide for San Juan, Puerto Rico

La Perla in Old San Juan for its colorful umbrellas
The cobblestone streets and colorful buildings of Old San Juan
The Forts in Old San Juan

A sentry (lookout) at El Morro

Belltower at El Morro

The Restored Lighthouse at El Morro

The Layout of El Morro which resembles a bull

Stairs and ramps at El Morro

Beautiful View from El Morro

The Chapel at the Fort

Flags at the Fort

Seaside views from El Morro Fort

A Tour of San Cristobel, San Juan, Puerto Rico

26 February 201817 September 2024

I was determined to see the two forts in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico before returning back to the States. After having an afternoon siesta, it was time to tackle the tour of San Juan’s San Cristobel Fort. There are two entries into the historical site, so I approached the main entrance with its fabulous views reaching El Morro and the Cemetery of Mary Magdalene.

To my left, I could see the city wall. Three miles long, it connects the forts of El Morro to San Cristobel. After several attacks on San Juan beginning in 1625, the wall was finally completed in 1790, completely surrounding the city. This section of the fort, there are embrasures to support cannons once used to protect San Juan from invasion.

I took the ramp up to the next level where I purchased my ticket and began my self-guided tour. From a doorway nearby, I could see the Carnival Liberty docked in the harbor of San Juan.

Immediately, I noticed the beautiful contrast of the old fort against the modern city of Old San Juan as I looked through one of its windows. With such an amazing charm and rich history this beautiful port hosts nearly 4 million visitors each year.

The casemate, with a vaulted chamber in a fortress, was the kitchen used to feed the soldiers of the garrison. It was believed that the kitchen had eventually moved to another area of the fort and the original location converted into a storage room.

There was evidence that the Casemate Chamber No. 3 had several uses over the years. From cannon emplacement to sleeping quarters and dining room, it was believed that during WWII, it may have even been used as an officer’s quarters.

The designated Catholic place of worship was set aside in one of the casemates of the fort. Soldiers could attend weekly mass and it was also a place of daily prayer.

One of the compartments of the hall was set up to show the sleeping quarters of the soldiers that were stationed at the fort.

To ensure a healthy supply of water, the cisterns were built to capture rainwater for drinking. There were a total of 5 cylinders that measured 57 feet long, 24 feet high and 17 feet wide, holding a total of about 870,000 gallons of water.

From the fort there were several views of the busy streets of Old San Juan. The lively mix of pastel left a colorful impression on the horizon.

Passing several openings throughout the fort, I managed to see the cruise ship, Carnival Liberty docked in the San Juan harbor. We had just returned today but I could have easily jumped back on for another week in the Caribbean.

There was a set of stairs that led to the second floor where the troop quarters were located.

I could see where the placement of the cannons were located and the tracks for which they could maneuver them from left to right to reach the target out in the open sea.

The Fire Control Station was built for use in WWII as an observation post to detect enemy ships and submarines. The information collected here was transmitted to assist in the coordination of artillery fire.

As the sun began to set, the light poured in from the arched doorways. In the distance I could see the entrance to the long tunnel that led to the dungeon and I was so excited to explore this area of the fort.

Thinking that the pathway leading to the dungeon would be dark and dreary, I was pleasantly surprised that it was quite well lit. Standing outside of the entrance, the room was unusually small which was not what I had expected, but then I entered.

On the wall are extraordinary carvings of galleons, sailing ships from the 15th to 17th centuries. Absolutely breathtaking, these works of art are assumed to be the drawings of a ship’s captain held captive here, awaiting execution for the crime of mutiny.

Before leaving the fort, I stopped by the gift shop and the small museum that included an exhibit about the life and times of the soldiers living at El Morro and San Cristobel. After picking up some souvenirs and having my national parks passport stamped, it was time for lunch and this would be my last chance to enjoy my favorite local dish, mofongo.

Would you consider visiting El Morro or San Cristobel forts during a visit to San Juan? I would love to hear your thoughts on attractions that are most important to you when vacationing. If you would kindly leave your thoughts in the comments section, that would be great! Many thanks for touring the Castillo San Cristobel through my blog post! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Castillo San Cristobel
San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Telephone: 787 449 4049