Topkapi Palace: The Luxurious Lives of the Sultans

3 April 20233 May 2025

Once the center of the Roman Empire, Istanbul is the only country that occupies two continents, Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus River. Originally named after Emperor Constantine, this multicultural city is packed with historical attractions and interesting architecture. Surrounding the Hippodrome are the city’s top places of interest which includes the Topkapi Palace.

After Rome’s fall to the Ottoman Empire, the Sultans converted Christian churches into Islamic mosques and built a palace in the center of the city. Surrounded by the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace, once the home of the Sultans, is open for visitors to give insight into the luxurious and private lives of Istanbul’s former rulers.

For over 400 years, the Sultans lived in the Palace until moving into the Dolmabahce Palace in the Besiktas district of Istanbul. By 1909, this palatial estate was completely abandoned and later restored to become a museum in 1924.

As we entered the Topkapi Palace through the Imperial Gate, we approached the Ahmet III fountain. This beautiful water feature is decorated with locally-made tiles, extravagant mosaics and Islamic calligraphy writing.

The Topkapi Palace and gardens are located near the Palace district of Istanbul and the views of the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn are breathtaking.

The courtyard inside of the Imperial Gate is expansive and was designated an area of green space reserved for public officials and civil servants. Also known as the “Courtyard of the Janissaries” the open grounds were congregating spaces for the royal soldiers. These soldiers, elaborately decorated in scarlet, were known for their unique style of music. Their compositions were said to have influenced European classical musicians such as Beethoven and Mozart.

Passing through the first courtyard, our guide pointed out a terra cotta building on the compound which was identified as the only Christian church on the property, the Hagia Irene. The original church was thought to have been built by Roman Emperor, Constantine. It is only one of few Christian churches that has not been converted into a Muslim mosque.

Visitors entering the palace would be required to pass through the Gate of Salutations. Also known as the Middle Gate, this imposing structure was built when the palace was first established in the 15^th century. Resembling a medieval fortress gate, the towers on each side housed the Head Gatekeeper who guarded the entrance. Above the door is an Arabic inscription from the Koran. Everyone, with the exception of the Sultan, would be required to dismount their horse before entering this gate.

Above the entrance to The Gate of Salutations is the imperial signature (tugra) of Sultan Mahmut II and a passage from the Koran written in Arabic calligraphy. The Turkish flag has been raised in the center above the entranceway, leading to the Second Court where the palace museum is located.

A large tower to the right is the Divan Tower, which was once the most important center of government in Europe. Across from the Divan Tower is the Imperial Harem Entrance, which was the quarters for the sultan’s mother, his wives and concubines as well as his children and servants. Four hundred rooms make up the harem, which requires an additional fee to enter. Approximately twenty of these rooms are available to tour.

The Divan Tower is exquisitely designed with colorful tiles and features accented in gold overlay. There were many meeting rooms, but one of the most important spaces was that of the Grand Vizier, the prime minister. The Sultan was known to eavesdrop on the meetings of the Grand Vizier through a window with a metal grill, known as the “Eye”.

Along the perimeter of the courtyard is the kitchen. Noticeable by its tall chimneys, this building is located in the Second Courtyard on the right, facing the Gate of Felicity. The kitchen offers three different exhibits: the Chinese Porcelain Collection, the Dessert Kitchen as well as the kitchen Dormitory which houses the silverware and the European porcelain. We were offered the opportunity to explore the three sections of the kitchen which included the location where the food was cooked, the halva kitchen and the dormitories which housed the cooking staff.

The Gate of Felicity, also known as the “Gate of the White Eunuchs”, provided entrance into the third courtyard, which was the residential areas of the palace. Entrance through the Felicity Gate required the permission of the Sultan. If he was not residing at the palace, this area was off limits.

The third courtyard is surrounded by the treasury that displays some of the most amazing riches from the Sultan’s collection. The first room showcases the imperial thrones and the divans. The second room contains jade objects and jewels. The third room houses treasures from the 16^th century, and the 19^th century candlesticks which adorned the tomb of the Prophet Mohammed. The fourth room is probably the most interesting with its Emerald Dagger and the 86-carat pearl-shaped diamond.

In the Fourth Court is located the Room of Circumcision.

A nearby café sells Turkish coffee and the popular Apple Tea while providing gorgeous views of the Bosphorus River.

The Baghdad Pavilion was built to commemorate the conquest of Murad IV in 1636. Made of marble, colorful tiles and intricate inlay, the inside of this kiosk is an example of an ideal Ottoman space and classical palace architecture.

The Topkapi compound is an overwhelming system of open courtyards and hundreds of rooms and chambers. With only limited time to explore the Palace, it would take hours to fully experience the beauty and culture of this amazing museum. It was my first opportunity to explore the architecture of the Ottoman Empire and I am beyond ecstatic to see more examples of Turkish design.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul? What did you find most fascinating? I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my experience at the Topkapi Palace! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

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What to See and What to Do:

Topkapi Palace
Cankurtaran Mh.,
34122, Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 512 04 80

Admission Fee: The museum ticket is 60 Turkish Lira. There is an additional fee in the amount of 35 Turkish Lira to visit the harem and 30 Turkish Lira for the Hagia Irene.
Hours: The museum, harem and Hagia Irene is open from 9AM to 4:45 PM and the last entrance to the museum is 4:00PM between October 30 – April 15. The museum, harem and Hagia Irene is open from 9AM to 6:45PM and the last entrance to the museum is at 6PM between April 15 – October 30. Note that the hours of operation may change during religious holidays.
Amenities: Museum, café, restaurant, audio guide for rent, bookstore
Scenic View: The restaurant has spectacular views of the Bosporus River
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Photographs inside of the exhibition halls are not permitted. Strollers are also not permitted into the museum sections. Appropriate dress is required for the Sacred Relics Department: no shorts, mini-skirts, tank tops or strapless clothing.

Where to Stay:

Fer Hotel
Mollafenari Mahallesi
Turbedar Sk. No. 12
34120 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 522 50 80

Where to Eat:

Cozy Pub & Restaurant
Alemdar Mh., Divan Yolu Cd. No. 60
34110 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 520 09 90

We loved sitting in the alleyway at red and white checked clothed tables. We ordered Efes beer and appetizers which included hummus, tzatziki sauce, pita bread and spring rolls. Ask your server to let you go up the small elevator for an amazing view of the Blue Mosque!

What to Eat:

Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

Istanbul: Memories of a City, by Orhan Pamuk
The Bastard of Istanbul, by Elif Shahak
My Name is Red, by Orhan Pamuk
Istanbul Passage, by Joseph Kanon

Photo Guide for Istanbul:

Galata Tower for views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus River
The Blue Mosque for its amazing blue tiles
The Rainbow Stairs at Sali Pazari Yokusu
The Rooftop Terrace of Seven Hills Hotel for views of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace AND the Hagia Sophia
Rooftop Terrace of Cozy’s Restaurant for views of the Blue Mosque
Inside the Hagia Sophia in the afternoon when the light shines in from the windows
The Grand Bazaar
Balat for colorful structures in the former Jewish neighborhood

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

A Gate in the Topkapi Palace

A Beautiful Courtyard at the Topkapi Palace

The Beautiful Architecture of The Divan

The Ornate Interior of the Divan

Seeking Holy Wisdom in Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia

27 March 202325 May 2025

My first visit to Istanbul was on a summer girl’s trip. Our plans were to start out in Istanbul, Turkey, explore the beautiful coast and sail to a few of the nearby Greek islands. With only a couple of days in the capitol city, I was disappointed that we had such little time to visit more of Istanbul’s historical sites. I remember how fascinated I was to see the mosques, the Hippodrome and the Bosporus River all the while watching the city celebrate the Ramadan holiday.

A couple of years later, I returned to Istanbul on a Footsteps of Paul cruise and I was thrilled to be back for two full days in the city. Happy to visit the Blue Mosque and the Spice Market, our first stop was the Hagia Sophia.

The Hagia Sophia (eye-ah soh-fee-yah) has been described as one of the greatest sites of worship for both Christians and Muslims. Initially built by Emperor Constantine in 537AD as a Christian church, the site was later converted into a mosque when Islam became the country’s central religion. I imagine all of the thousands of Christians arriving to the Hagia Sophia to worship in such a beautiful place. Considered one of Istanbul’s most impressive attractions, nearly three and a half million guests visit this historical site which is now an educational museum.

Upon entering, all guests are required to remove their shoes and the women must cover their hair. We approached the Hagia Sophia through the vestibule on the western side where we were then led into the open expanse of the former church. The central bronze doors were brought to the site from an ancient temple in Antioch. Known as the Emperor’s entrance on special occasions, the spectacular mosaics decorated the transom dating over 1500 years to the time of Justinian.

Measuring nearly 250 feet long, 230 feet wide and towering 90 feet high, this space is exceptionally large. Its architecture is influenced by both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. An outer narthex leads into the inner narthex (a porch area of the church) and finally reaches the nave in the center, where the congregation would have met.

The half domes display colorful mosaics of Mary holding the infant Jesus which were later concealed when the church became a mosque. Once the facility became a museum, the images were discovered during a restoration project and ongoing renovations continue to uncover extraordinary artwork.

The impressive dome is held up by its walls and arches that strategically distribute the weight of the dome to create a pendentive. Reaching a height of 185 feet and measuring 100 feet across in diameter, there are 40 ribs made from bricks of clay imported from the Greek island of Rhodes.

When the Hagia Sophia was built, it was constructed with the finest materials that were imported from all over the ancient world. The large green column was removed from the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus as a spoil of conquest (spolia). The two alabaster urns are from the Hellenistic Era of Pergamon and the purple columns behind each urn are older than the Hagia Sophia itself.

The panel on the walls and the inlay on the floor are a collection of purple porphery from Egypt, green stone from Thessaly, black stone from the Bosporus, yellow stone from Syria, white stone from Cappadoccia and golden stone from Libya. The green marble circle, called the Omphalion, was the spot where the emperors were crowned.

Within the Hagia Sophia are a few Muslim elements that remain on display. The mirhab, known as the prayer niche, oriented the Muslim’s direction so that he could position himself to pray towards Mecca.

The Mimbar (meem-behr) is the raised pulpit in a mosque where the imam would stand halfway up the stairs to deliver his sermon.

The upper galleries with their arched open spaces are accessible by a ramp near the Narthax. This second level was designated for women who came to the mosque to worship and we learned from our guide that there are beautiful mosaics on display.

When the church became a mosque, many of the mosaics and frescoes depicting people were covered as required by the Islam religion. While the building was undergoing restoration, seraphims in the upper corners were recently unveiled. It was estimated that they had been painted in the 14^th century AD.

There are a total of eight medallions suspended from the arches overheard. The Arabic writing documents the names of leading Muslim figures, as images of people were forbidden to be displayed in a mosque.

As I exited the Hagia Sophia, I noticed the reflection of the Donation Mosaic in the mirror above. The mosaic is on the opposite side of the wall where Mary is holding Jesus in her lap. Jesus makes the sign of the trinity with his three fingers of his right hand and holds the Gospels of the Bible in his right hand. Two men stand beside the Virgin Mary and Jesus, with arms outstretched offering them gifts. On the right is Constantine presenting them a model of the city of Constantinople and on the left is Justinian gifting them the Hagia Sophia, Our guide pointed out that the Hagia Sophia was painted as it would have looked when it was a church without the minorets and a cross at the top of its dome. This 11^th century mosaic dates back to the reign of Basil II, an emperor of the Byzantine Empire.

What amazed me about the Hagia Sophia was seeing the combination of Christianity and Islam in one location. I was also intrigued by the recent findings and the uncovering of Christian artwork that had been hidden for so many years. Researchers are optimistic that they may find more of these extraordinary treasures and It will be interesting to learn what they will discover.

What was your experience like at the Hagia Sophia? What were some of the aspects of the museum that interested you? I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Wishing you many Happy Travels!