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Tag Archives: Constantinople

Athens, Greece: A Living Museum

5 September 202323 September 2024

Athens was once the center of civilization….the pulse of the world and believed to be the center of the universe.   Today it is a living museum, full of archaeological sites and artifacts.  A city steeped in history and a love for philosophy and science.  In Athens, you can walk in the footsteps of countrymen who have made an impact on the world in areas such as medicine, architecture and mathematics.   Over the years, Athens was a city to conquer and has suffered a few setbacks, but this ancient civilization, even today, has always managed to forge ahead.

DSC_0800 - Syntagma Square and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Our first stop on our tour of Athens was Mars Hill.  Traveling by bus from the airport, we passed  a few sites which our guide pointed out, starting with Syntagma Square.  Located northeast of the Plaka, a popular city neighborhood, the square stands in front of the neoclassical Parliament building.

Also referred to as Plateia Syntagmatos, this beautiful courtyard was once a part of the Royal Palace of Greece’s first king, King Otto I.  Organized demonstrations took place here leading to the country’s historic constitution of 1843 in which they gained independence from the Ottoman Empire.

Today, the Evzone Guards, an elite unit of the Greek military perform the changing of the guard ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  The uniforms of the guards have historical significance.   The pompoms on the shoes go back to the ancient Mycenaeans.  The 400 pleats in the winter skirts resemble the number years that the Greeks were under the rule of the Ottoman Empire.

At five minutes before each hour, the guard changes, providing a presentation of the crossing of the guard.  On Sundays at 11AM, visitors can witness a full crossing of the guard ceremony complete with marching band.DSC_0824, Temple of Olympian Zeus

Taking a right from the Parliament building we came upon the ruins of the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch.  The Temple of Olympian Zeus (Olympieion), measuring 360 feet by 145 feet when it was completed, towered 56 feet high.  Construction began during the rule of Peisistratos and was completed by Hadrian, the Roman Emperor in 131 AD, taking over 700 years to complete.

Only 15 of the original 104 Corinthian columns remain. The structure once displayed colossal statues of  both Zeus and Hadrian.  DSC_0875 - Hadrian's Arch

Close to the area of Lysicratu is Hadrian’s Arch which was once a dazzling white structure topped with Corinthian columns.  The arch was built in 131 AD by the Roman Emperor, Hadrian who is also credited for completing the temple.  On the arch side facing the traffic (west) is an inscription, “This is Athens, ancient city of Theseus” and on the east, “This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus”.   The east side was a gateway to Roman structures which included the Temple of Olympian Zeus,  also completed by Hadrian.  It represents the division between Classical Greece and the Roman Province.

DSC_0848, Church of Agios Eleftherios

The Church of Agios Eleftherios was once a meeting place for the archbishops of Athens when the Ottomans prohibited them from meeting in the church within the Parthenon.  Known as the “old cathedral”, this place of worship has been around since the 13th century.

DSC_0921 - Panathenaic Stadium

In the district of Pangratti is the Panathanaic Stadium (Kallimarmaro, “beautiful marble”), the “stadium of the first modern Olympic games”.  It has since been refurbished through funding by Evangelis Zappas and George Averof.

DSC_0918, George Averoff Statue, Athens, Greece

There is a statue of George in the square near the stadium.

DSC_0928, Hiking up Mars Hill

Known as the Areopagus, Ares’s Hill as well as Mars Hill, this amazing climb provides impressive views of historic Athens as well as a remarkable vantage point to photograph the Acropolis.  This location is most popularly known as the place where the apostle Paul shared his Christian faith with local Greek intellectuals.

DSC_0927 - Mars Hill View

A panoramic View from Mars Hill, from left to right, are structures such as Ancient Agora and Thissio Park.  The Plaka would be located towards the center and the Acropolis to the right.  Tickets to the Acropolis are also valid for visiting the Greek and Roman Agoras, Hadrian’s Library, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Theatre of Dionysos and the Kerameikos Cemetery.

IMG_1429, Amazing View from the Acropolis

From Mars Hill, the Temple of Hephaestos, is the most intact Doric temple in Greece.   It is dedicated to the god of iron workers, blacksmiths, those that worked with fire who created items such as tools, statues, jewelry and armor.  It was transformed into a Christian church, the Chapel of St. George (of the dragon) which may have helped in keeping the temple in its current state.

From Mars Hill, we were now ready to explore oneof the most magnificent temples of Greek architecture, The Acropolis.

Have you visited the spectacular city of Athens?  I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below!  Many thanks for reading about my day in Athens and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

Syntagma Square
Athens 105, 57, Greece

Temple of Olympian Zeus
Athens 105, 57, Greece

Hadrian’s Arch
Athens 105, 57, Greece

Church of Agios Eleftherios
Acharnon 384, Athina 111 43, Greece

Panathanaic Stadium
Vasileos Konstantinou Anevue (opposite the statue of Myron Discobolus)
Athens, 116 35, Greece

Areopagus
Theorias 21, Athina 105 55, Greece

Ancient Agora
Adrianou 24, Athina 105 55, Greece

Thissio Park
Apostolou Pavlou, Athina 105 55, Greece

Hadrian’s Library
?, Areos 3, Athina 105 55, Greece

Theatre of Dionysos
The Acropolis
Mitseon 25, Athina 117 42, Greece

Kerameikos Cemetery
Ermou 148, Athina 105 53, Greece

Temple of Hephaestos
Athens 105 55, Greece

Chapel of St. George
Thrasillou 18, Athina 105 58, Greece

Acropolis
Athens 105 58, Greece

Odeon of Herodes Atticus
Dionysiou Areopagitou, Athina 105 55, Greece

Where to Stay:

AVA Hotel and Suites
9-11 Lyssikratous Street, Plaka,
Athens, Attiki, 105 51  Greece
Telephone:  +30 21 00325 9000

Where to Eat: 

2Mazi Restaurant
48 Nikis Street, Plaka
Athens, Attiki, 105 51  Greece

What to Eat:

    • Baklava is layers of phyllo dough filled with nuts, spices and sweetened with honey
    • Greek Salad
    • Greek Wine from Santorini is unique as the grapes are grown in volcanic ash
    • Gyros
    • Lamb
    • Local Olives
    • Mashed Fava Beans (Fava me Koukia)
    • Moussaka is an eggplant or potato based pie with meat and cheese
    • Pomegranates
    • Saganaki is a phyllo pastry stuffed with cheese and covered in honey
    • Souvlaki are meat kabobs made from lamb, beef or chicken
    • Spanikopita is a phyllo pastry filled with spinach, cheese, and sometimes onion
    • Tomato Fritters made with tomatoes and onion, they are spiced either with oregano and peppermint then deep-fried
    • Tzatziki is a yogurt based sauce with bits of garlic, onion, cucumbers, olive oil and lemon. Pita bread is usually served with this dish for dipping.

What to Read: 

  • The Odyssey, by Homer
  • The King Must Die, by Mary Renault
  • Little Infamies, by Panos Karnezis
  • My Family and Other Animals, by Gerald Durrell
  • Uncle Petros and Goldbach’s Conjecture, by Apostolos Doxiadis
  • Freedem and Death, by Nikos Kazantzakis
  • The Dark Labyrinth, by Lawrence Durrell
  • The Names, by Don DeLillo
  • Atticus the Storyteller’s 100 Greek Myths by Lucy Coats and Anthony Lewis

Photo Guide for Athens, Greece:

  • Acropolis
  • Temple of Olympian Zeus
  • Ancient Agora
  • Dromeas “Running Man” Sculpture
  • Changing of the Guard (Evzones)
  • Panatheniac Stadium
  • Anafiotika Neighborhood
  • Mount Lycabettus
  • Lake Vouliagmeni
  • Pentelikion Waterfall
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Seeking Holy Wisdom in Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia

27 March 202325 May 2025

DSC_2204, hagia Sophia

My first visit to Istanbul was on a summer girl’s trip.  Our plans were to start out in Istanbul, Turkey, explore the beautiful coast and sail to a few of the nearby Greek islands.  With only a couple of days in the capitol city, I was disappointed that we had such little time to visit more of Istanbul’s historical sites.  I remember how fascinated I was to see the mosques, the Hippodrome and the Bosporus River all the while watching the city celebrate the Ramadan holiday.

A couple of years later, I returned to Istanbul on a Footsteps of Paul cruise and I was thrilled to be back for two full days in the city.  Happy to visit the Blue Mosque and the Spice Market, our first stop was the Hagia Sophia.

The Hagia Sophia (eye-ah soh-fee-yah) has been described as one of the greatest sites of worship for both Christians and Muslims.  Initially built by Emperor Constantine in 537AD as a Christian church, the site was later converted into a mosque when Islam became the country’s central religion.  I imagine all of the thousands of Christians arriving to the Hagia Sophia to worship in such a beautiful place.  Considered one of Istanbul’s most impressive attractions, nearly three and a half million guests visit this historical site which is now an educational museum.

DSC_0426

Upon entering, all guests are required to remove their shoes and the women must cover their hair.  We approached the Hagia Sophia through the vestibule on the western side where we were then led into the open expanse of the former church.   The central bronze doors were brought to the site from an ancient temple in Antioch.  Known as the Emperor’s entrance on special occasions, the spectacular mosaics decorated the transom dating over 1500 years to the time of Justinian.

DSC_2206, Interior View of the Hagia Sophia, Panorama

Measuring nearly 250 feet long, 230 feet wide and towering 90 feet high, this space is exceptionally large.  Its architecture is influenced by both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires.   An outer narthex leads into the inner narthex (a porch area of the church) and finally reaches the nave in the center, where the congregation would have met.

DSC_2218, Frescoes in the Hagia Sophia

The half domes display colorful mosaics of Mary holding the infant Jesus which were later concealed when the church became a mosque.  Once the facility became a museum, the images were  discovered during a restoration project and ongoing renovations continue to uncover extraordinary artwork.

DSC_2208, More Restoration of the Hagia Sophia

The impressive dome is held up by its walls and arches that strategically distribute the weight of the dome to create a pendentive.  Reaching a height of 185 feet and measuring 100 feet across in diameter, there are 40 ribs made from bricks of clay imported from the Greek island of Rhodes.

DSC_2220, Panoramic View of the Restoration of the Hagia Sophia

When the Hagia Sophia was built, it was constructed with the finest materials that were imported from all over the ancient world.  The large green column was removed  from the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus as a spoil of conquest (spolia).  The two alabaster urns are from the Hellenistic Era of Pergamon and the purple columns behind each urn are older than the Hagia Sophia itself.

DSC_2221, The Floor of the Hagia Sophia

The panel on the walls and the inlay on the floor are a collection of purple porphery from Egypt, green stone from Thessaly, black stone from the Bosporus, yellow stone from Syria, white stone from Cappadoccia and golden stone from Libya.   The green marble circle, called the Omphalion, was the spot where the emperors were crowned.

DSC_0442

Within the Hagia Sophia are a few Muslim elements that remain on display.  The mirhab, known as the prayer niche, oriented the Muslim’s direction so that he could position himself to pray towards Mecca.

DSC_0457

The Mimbar (meem-behr) is the raised pulpit in a mosque where the imam would stand halfway up the stairs to deliver his sermon.

DSC_2212, Gazing up at the Domes, Hagia Sophia

The upper galleries with their arched open spaces are accessible by a ramp near the Narthax.  This second level was designated for women who came to the mosque to worship and we learned from our guide that there are beautiful mosaics on display.

When the church became a mosque, many of the mosaics and frescoes depicting people were covered as required by the Islam religion.  While the building was undergoing restoration, seraphims in the upper corners were recently unveiled.  It was estimated that they had been painted in the 14th century AD.

DSC_2225, Ceiling and Ornate Fixtures, Hagia Sophia

There are a total of eight medallions suspended from the arches overheard.  The Arabic writing documents the names of leading Muslim figures, as images of people were forbidden to be displayed in a mosque.

DSC_2241, Frescoe in the Hagia Sophia

As I exited the Hagia Sophia, I noticed the reflection of the Donation Mosaic in the mirror above. The mosaic is on the opposite side of the wall where Mary is holding Jesus in her lap.  Jesus makes the sign of the trinity with his three fingers of his right hand and holds the Gospels of the Bible in his right hand.  Two men stand beside the Virgin Mary and Jesus, with arms outstretched offering them gifts.  On the right is Constantine presenting them a model of the city of Constantinople and on the left is Justinian gifting them the Hagia Sophia,  Our guide pointed out that the Hagia Sophia was painted as it would have looked when it was a church without the minorets and a cross at the top of its dome.  This 11th century mosaic dates back to the reign of Basil II, an emperor of the Byzantine Empire.

What amazed me about the Hagia Sophia was seeing the combination of Christianity and Islam in one location.  I was also intrigued by the recent findings and the uncovering of Christian artwork that had been hidden for so many years.  Researchers are optimistic that they may find more of these extraordinary treasures and It will be interesting to learn what they will discover.

What was your experience like at the Hagia Sophia?  What were some of the aspects of the museum that interested you?   I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Wishing you many Happy Travels!

Disclosure:   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

What to See and What to Do:

Hagia Sophia 
Sultan Ahmet Mahallesi
Ayasofya Meydani
34122 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 212 522 17 50

  • Admission Fee:  60 Turkish Lira
  • Hours:  The museum is open April 15 – October 31 from 9AM to 7PM, with the last entry at 6PM;  November 1 – April 15 from 9AM to 5PM, with the last entry at 4PM.  They are closed on Mondays.  Last tickets are sold an hour before closing.
  • Amenities:  Audio guide (30 TL) can be accessed at the museum’s entrance provided in the following languages:  Turkish, English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Arabic, Japanese, Persian, Greek, Russian and Korean
  • Scenic View:  Splendid views of the museum from the upstairs gallery
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:   The Hagia Sophia is located in the Sultanahmet District across from the Blue Mosque.  Arrive early in the day as crowds to purchase tickets can be long. Dress appropriately as you may be turned away for not covering your knees and shoulders. In addition, there are several ways to purchase tickets ahead of time, which will allow you to skip the ticket queue.  According to tradition, if you “turn your thumb” in the historical pillar, all of your wishes will be granted. Gil is the name of the resident cat who lives within the museum. Private tours can also be purchased at the door.  Don’t forget to visit the upstairs gallery for additional displays.

Where to Stay:

Fer Hotel
Mollafenari Mahallesi
Turbedar Sk. No. 12
34120 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 522 50 80

Where to Eat:

Cozy Pub & Restaurant
Alemdar Mh., Divan Yolu Cd. No. 60
34110 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 212 520 09 90

We loved sitting in the alleyway at red and white checked clothed tables.  We ordered Efes beer and appetizers which included hummus, tzatziki sauce, pita bread and spring rolls.   Ask your server to let you go up the small elevator for an amazing view of the Blue Mosque!

What to Eat: 

  • Baklava:  made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
  • Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle.  The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
  • Iskender Kebab:  thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
  • Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
  • Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
  • Tarihi Osmanli Macunu (Traditional Ottoman Candy):  Made of five different flavors of thick taffy spiraled deftly around a stick and then sprinkled with fresh lemon juice, creating a delicious and savory lollipop.  
  • Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
  • Turkish Delight:  a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
  • Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt.  A must try.
  • Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh.  Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
  • Turkish Ravioli:  dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read: 

  • Istanbul: Memories of a City, by Orhan Pamuk
  • The Bastard of Istanbul, by Elif Shahak
  • My Name is Red, by Orhan Pamuk
  • Istanbul Passage, by Joseph Kanon

Photo Guide for Istanbul: 

  • Galata Tower for views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus River
  • The Blue Mosque for its amazing blue tiles
  • The Rainbow Stairs at Sali Pazari Yokusu
  • The Rooftop Terrace of Seven Hills Hotel for views of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace AND the Hagia Sophia
  • Rooftop Terrace of Cozy’s Restaurant for views of the Blue Mosque
  • Inside the Hagia Sophia in the afternoon when the light shines in from the windows
  • The Grand Bazaar
  • Balat for colorful structures in the former Jewish neighborhood

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

DSC_2217, An Angel in the Hagia Sophia

A Seraphim that was uncovered in 2010

DSC_2232, Wide Angle Shot of the Ceiling of the Hagia Sophia

The Dome, the Seraphim, the Medallions and the Scaffolding

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I have had a passion to travel for as long as I can remember and landed my dream job at the age of 19 on a cruise ship. The Suite Life of Travel is about those experiences as well as my future endeavor to explore this amazing world!

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