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Tag Archives: culture

Topkapi Palace: The Luxurious Lives of the Sultans

3 April 20233 May 2025

+DSC_2032, Topkaki Palace

Once the center of the Roman Empire, Istanbul is the only country that occupies two continents, Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus River.  Originally named after Emperor Constantine, this multicultural city is packed with historical attractions and interesting architecture.  Surrounding the Hippodrome are the city’s top places of interest which includes the Topkapi Palace.

After Rome’s fall to the Ottoman Empire, the Sultans converted Christian churches into Islamic mosques and built a palace in the center of the city.  Surrounded by the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace, once the home of the Sultans, is open for visitors to give insight into the luxurious and private lives of Istanbul’s former rulers.

For over 400 years, the Sultans lived in the Palace until moving into the Dolmabahce Palace in the Besiktas district of Istanbul.  By 1909, this palatial estate was completely abandoned and later restored to become a museum in 1924.

+DSC_0322

As we entered the Topkapi Palace through the Imperial Gate, we approached the Ahmet III fountain.  This beautiful water feature is decorated with locally-made tiles, extravagant mosaics and Islamic calligraphy writing.

The Topkapi Palace and gardens are located near the Palace district of Istanbul and the views of the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn are breathtaking.

+DSC_2037, Entrance into the Topkapki courtyard

The courtyard inside of the Imperial Gate is expansive and was designated an area of green space reserved for public officials and civil servants.  Also known as the “Courtyard of the Janissaries” the open grounds were congregating spaces for the royal soldiers.  These soldiers, elaborately decorated in scarlet, were known for their unique style of music.  Their compositions were said to have influenced European classical musicians such as Beethoven and Mozart.

DSC_0071

Passing through the first courtyard, our guide pointed out a terra cotta building on the compound which was identified as the only Christian church on the property, the Hagia Irene.  The original church was thought to have been built by Roman Emperor, Constantine.  It is only one of few Christian churches that has not been converted into a Muslim mosque.

DSC_2044, The Gate of Salutations, Topkapki Palace

Visitors entering the palace would be required to pass through the Gate of Salutations. Also known as the Middle Gate, this imposing structure was built when the palace was first established in the 15th century.  Resembling a medieval fortress gate, the towers on each side housed the Head Gatekeeper who guarded the entrance.  Above the door is an Arabic inscription from the Koran.   Everyone, with the exception of the Sultan, would be required to dismount their horse before entering this gate.

DSC_0082

Above the entrance to The Gate of Salutations is the imperial signature (tugra) of Sultan Mahmut II and a  passage from the Koran written in Arabic calligraphy.  The Turkish flag has been raised in the center above the entranceway, leading to the Second Court where the palace museum is located.

DSC_2055, DivanTower in the Topkapki Palace

A large tower to the right is the Divan Tower, which was once the most important center of government in Europe.  Across from the Divan Tower is the Imperial Harem Entrance, which was the quarters for the sultan’s mother, his wives and concubines as well as his children and servants.  Four hundred rooms make up the harem, which requires an additional fee to enter.  Approximately twenty of these rooms are available to tour.

DSC_2068, Entryway, Topkapki Palace

The Divan Tower is exquisitely designed with colorful tiles and features accented in gold overlay. There were many meeting rooms, but one of the most important spaces was that of the Grand Vizier, the prime minister.  The Sultan was known to eavesdrop on the meetings of the Grand Vizier through a window with a metal grill, known as the “Eye”.

DSC_2057, The Kitchen at the Topkapki Palace

Along the perimeter of the courtyard is the kitchen.  Noticeable by its tall chimneys, this building is located in the Second Courtyard on the right, facing the Gate of Felicity.  The kitchen offers three different exhibits:  the Chinese Porcelain Collection, the Dessert Kitchen as well as the kitchen Dormitory which houses the silverware and the European porcelain.  We were offered the opportunity to explore the three sections of the kitchen which included the location where the food was cooked, the halva kitchen and the dormitories which housed the cooking staff.

DSC_2056, Topkapki Palace, Istanbul

The Gate of Felicity, also known as the “Gate of the White Eunuchs”, provided entrance into the third courtyard, which was the residential areas of the palace.  Entrance through the Felicity Gate required the permission of the Sultan.  If he was not residing at the palace, this area was off limits.

DSC_2083, Panoramic View of Topkapki Palace

The third courtyard is surrounded by the treasury that displays some of the most amazing riches from the Sultan’s collection.  The first room showcases the imperial thrones and the divans.  The second room contains jade objects and jewels.  The third room houses treasures from the 16th century, and the 19th century candlesticks which adorned the tomb of the Prophet Mohammed.  The fourth room is probably the most interesting with its Emerald Dagger and the 86-carat pearl-shaped diamond.

In the Fourth Court is located the Room of Circumcision.

DSC_2086, Beautiful View from the Restaurant from Topkapki Palace`

A nearby café sells Turkish coffee and the popular Apple Tea while providing gorgeous views of the Bosphorus River.

DSC_2087, Panoramic View, Topkapki Palace

The Baghdad Pavilion was built to commemorate the conquest of Murad IV in 1636.  Made of marble, colorful tiles and intricate inlay, the inside of this kiosk is an example of an ideal Ottoman space and classical palace architecture.

The Topkapi compound is an overwhelming system of open courtyards and hundreds of rooms and chambers.  With only limited time to explore the Palace, it would take hours to fully experience the beauty and culture of this amazing museum.  It was my first opportunity to explore the architecture of the Ottoman Empire and I am beyond ecstatic to see more examples of Turkish design.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul?  What did you find most fascinating?  I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my experience at the Topkapi Palace! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

Disclosure:  Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

What to See and What to Do:

Topkapi Palace
Cankurtaran Mh.,
34122, Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 512 04 80

  • Admission Fee:  The museum ticket is 60 Turkish Lira.  There is an additional fee in the amount of 35 Turkish Lira to visit the harem and 30 Turkish Lira for the Hagia Irene.
  • Hours:  The museum, harem and Hagia Irene is open from 9AM to 4:45 PM and the last entrance to the museum is 4:00PM between October 30 – April 15.  The museum, harem and Hagia Irene is open from 9AM to 6:45PM and the last entrance to the museum is at 6PM between April 15 – October 30.  Note that the hours of operation may change during religious holidays.
  • Amenities:  Museum, café, restaurant, audio guide for rent, bookstore
  • Scenic View:  The restaurant has spectacular views of the Bosporus River
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Photographs inside of the exhibition halls are not permitted. Strollers are also not permitted into the museum sections.  Appropriate dress is required for the Sacred Relics Department:  no shorts, mini-skirts, tank tops or strapless clothing.

Where to Stay:

Fer Hotel
Mollafenari Mahallesi
Turbedar Sk. No. 12
34120 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone: +90 212 522 50 80

Where to Eat:

Cozy Pub & Restaurant
Alemdar Mh., Divan Yolu Cd. No. 60
34110 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone:  +90 212 520 09 90

We loved sitting in the alleyway at red and white checked clothed tables.  We ordered Efes beer and appetizers which included hummus, tzatziki sauce, pita bread and spring rolls.   Ask your server to let you go up the small elevator for an amazing view of the Blue Mosque!

What to Eat: 

  • Baklava:  made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
  • Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle.  The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
  • Iskender Kebab:  thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
  • Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
  • Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
  • Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
  • Turkish Delight:  a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
  • Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt.  A must try.
  • Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh.  Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
  • Turkish Ravioli:  dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read: 

  • Istanbul: Memories of a City, by Orhan Pamuk
  • The Bastard of Istanbul, by Elif Shahak
  • My Name is Red, by Orhan Pamuk
  • Istanbul Passage, by Joseph Kanon

Photo Guide for Istanbul: 

  • Galata Tower for views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus River
  • The Blue Mosque for its amazing blue tiles
  • The Rainbow Stairs at Sali Pazari Yokusu
  • The Rooftop Terrace of Seven Hills Hotel for views of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace AND the Hagia Sophia
  • Rooftop Terrace of Cozy’s Restaurant for views of the Blue Mosque
  • Inside the Hagia Sophia in the afternoon when the light shines in from the windows
  • The Grand Bazaar
  • Balat for colorful structures in the former Jewish neighborhood

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

+DSC_2033 - Entering the Topkapki Palace through the Imperial Gate

A Gate in the Topkapi Palace

+DSC_2038, Topkapki Interior Courtyard

A Beautiful Courtyard at the Topkapi Palace

DSC_2060, Topkapki Palace

The Beautiful Architecture of The Divan

DSC_2049, Dome of the Topkapki Palace

The Ornate Interior of the Divan

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A Walking Tour of the Victoria and Albert Harbor

4 August 202222 September 2024

Filled with adrenaline from having swam with the Great Whites at Gansbaai, I was excited to explore the scenic coast of Cape Town before hopping a plane for Johannesburg.  With a couple of days ahead of me, I planned to explore the coast, sample the local wines and study the fascinating life of Nelson Mandela.

Grabbing my backpack, I exited the Protea Hotel in Sea Point and began my forty-five minute trek towards the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront.  Known as the oldest working harbor in the Southern Hemisphere, this lively neighborhood is where I will be catching the jetty over to Robben Island in the afternoon.

Navigating through one of the most affluent suburbs of Cape Town, I quickly reached the coast.  I had arrived in August, the start of South Africa’s winter, greeted with mild temperatures and overcast skies.  The colorful high rises were a welcome site against the gray backdrop and foggy start of my day.

Mounds of seaweed covered the manicured beaches as small whitecaps made their way towards the water’s edge.  The sun was rising and casting a glow on the concrete landscape where locals slowly filled the promenade.  The briny smell of the sea continued to grow stronger as warmer temperatures began to rise.  My walk continued northeast away from Sea Point  towards indigenous gardens, passing the Green Point Lighthouse with a glimpse of the Cape Town Stadium.

Gazing toward the barren mountains in the distance, the palm tree-lined avenue brought me closer to the V&A Waterfront.  Posted signs served as a reminder of Cape Town’s water shortage which was at its peak during my visit.

Within minutes, the landscape grew more beautiful with gardens of purple salvia and elegantly laid brick stretching for miles.  Tall, clusters of palm trees rose from the rocky cliffs sloping down towards the bay. The V&A Waterfront, a part of  Cape Town’s Big 6, includes the Table Mountain Cableway, Kirstensbosch Gardens, Robben Island, Cape Point and Constantia Vineyards.

In the midst of the spectacular countryside was built a beautiful tribute to Queen Victoria and her son Prince Alfred, known by locals as the V&A Waterfront. The venue has become one of South Africa’s most visited historical and cultural destinations.

From the second story of the waterfront’s shopping plaza I noticed the boats moored in South Africa’s oldest working harbor, over 450 shops and restaurants lining the streets and a Ferris wheel offering spectacular views of Signal Hill.  I had purchased a ticket to visit Robben Island and would return to the dock after lunch to board the Robben Island jetty.

Too early for lunch, I strolled the harbor where boats were tied up alongside the dock bringing in the catch of the day and taking out passengers for tours of the coast. Many of the stores and restaurants would soon open, so I strolled the quiet site and found The Harbor House where I decided to dine for lunch.

Starting out with a local Chenin Blanc from Beaumont Wines, I scanned over the menu in hopes of finding a local seafood dish or a platter of sushi for lunch.  The wine was crisp with the flavors of tart apples and melon, chilled perfectly.  Sitting on the second level of the restaurant, the sun was struggling to push its way past the cloudy sky, but its warmth was pressing in.

With each sip, I weighed my options and finally  decided on the Tuna Rainbow Roll and Ultimate Rainbow Roll.  Decadent and full of flavor, I slowly enjoyed each bite as I finished my glass of wine. The weight staff were exceptional and the restaurant views, spectacular.

As I strolled the waterfront with its colorful monuments and museums, I heard the bark of a Cape Fur Seal. Following the sound, I came upon this beautiful mammal tucked in a concrete corner finding a place to rest near the first stop on my self-guided tour, Cape Town’s Clock Tower.

Built in 1882, the Victorian-Gothic Clock Tower was once the office of the Port Captain, who managed the schedule of ships coming in and out of the docks.  The clock tower, originally painted yellow, is the oldest building along the waterfront.  One of the city’s most iconic landmarks, the red-and-gray tower was refurbished in 1997 and is the home to several Cape Fur Seals.

Located at the base of the Swing Bridge, the African Trading Port is a shop focused on selling local African Art to include sculptures, ceramics, pottery and artifacts.  Drawing works from all over the country, this workshop first opened in Zimbabwe in 1978 with additional shops such as the one in Cape Town, opening in 2001.

Looking out across the port, the location where I am standing is Alfred Basin, where the original docks were built at the port of Cape Town.  In the distance are the picturesque Signal Hill and Table Mountain.

One of my favorite experiences was finding the beautifully painted rhinos placed along the waterfront, part of a program to bring awareness to these endangered species.  Poachers have been hunting the rhinoceros for their tusks, bringing about their near extinction since the 1950s.  TRAC, which stands for “The Rhinos are Coming” is  raising money to stop this practice throughout Africa.  From February 1st to March 31st of 2017, one hundred decorated rhinos were strategically placed throughout Cape Town as an outdoor art exhibit, which remained on display.

The V&A Market is now home to the former Pumphouse.  A vibrant marketplace with over forty vendors offering fresh food and produce as well as gourmet meals and local beer and wine.  I couldn’t resist stopping by The Knysna Oyster Company for a half a dozen oysters on the half shell.

A few steps from the market is Nobel Square, another impressive artistic installation, which opened in December of 2005.   The four statues represent Albert Lutuli, Desmond Tutu, F. W. de Klerk and Nelson Mandela, four of the country’s Nobel Peace Prize winners.

Checking my watch, I realized the ferry would soon be leaving for Robben Island.  Eager to explore the history of this island prison, I was also curious to learn more about Nelson Mandela’s experience here as a political prisoner.

Have you visited the Victoria and Albert’s Waterfront in Cape Town, South Africa?  What was your favorite part of your visit?  I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my visit to Cape Town and wishing you many Happy Travels.

What to See and What to Do:

Where to Stay;

Where to Eat:

What to Eat:

What to Read:

Photo Guide to Capetown:

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The Journey to North Bali

25 February 202222 September 2024

D3 Temple in South Bali

The smell of coffee brought a smile to my face the morning after New Year’s Eve.  Despite staying up late to welcome in the New Year, I had a restful sleep and was excited to make the journey to northern Bali.  Before checking into the hotel on Lovina Beach, there would be plenty of time to make a few stops along the way.   Wayan and his family wanted to drive around Denpasar to show me the busy city life of the south before reaching the more laid-back region of Singaraja.

Our first stop was in the heart of the island’s capital.  First, the family needed to present an offering to their Hindu gods and offer up a prayer.  There was a temple close by so, they completed their morning custom and then we visited one of the local shopping plazas to browse for souvenirs.  This was the perfect location for purchasing a sarong for visiting the temples and there were so many options and a variety of designs.  The children were eagerly excited to help me select the perfect one.

D3 Balinese Woodwork at Market

From clothing to temple decorations, the Balinese market offered a wide selection of products, quite similar to our large discount chains in the United States, but much more fun and exciting.  Outside the shopping plaza were food carts that lined the street where a quick, healthy meal of meatball soups, noodle dishes or wraps could be purchased.

The Balinese are known for their intrinsic woodwork and take pride in the ornate furnishings they design.  From decorating their everyday living space to adorning their family’s home temple, the Balinese artisans are very skilled and in high demand.D3 Typical Balinese Mask

Wayan explained that each Hindu family has a small temple in their home to carry out their daily religious ceremonies.  The altars are decorated in such detail to include carvings of the gods, with their exquisite artwork and vibrant colors. The shopping centers sell these types of items for their worship space and Wayan wanted to look at the new artwork on display. After purchasing a few bowls to hold their offerings to the gods, we were ready to start our journey north.

D3 Cremation Ceremony

Before exiting the city, Wayan pointed out a tower-like structure, beautifully designed with vibrant colors known as a waddhu.  Standing alongside the road, it had been created in preparation for a cremation ceremony and I learned that the higher the tower, the more important the person.  This ceremony is one of Bali’s oldest customs that dates back to thousands of years.

The Balinese Cremation Ceremony, also known as Ngaben, is a spiritual ritual of the Hindu that is viewed as a celebration. It is believed that if the loved one has completed their purification on earth, they will be united with God.  If the purification is incomplete, they will be reborn as someone else, returning to earth and starting the process again in a new life until purification is complete.

The date of the ceremonial rite will be selected by the Hindu priest and the family will make additional arrangements such as making the Lambu (the coffin), selecting the Gamelan musicians for the procession and purchasing the offerings to the gods.

After the service and procession, the priest will ignite the waddhu from the holy fire, burning the body until it has turned to ash.  The remains will be scattered into the sea and ceremonial activities will last over the next twelve days in honor of their loved one that has passed.

D3 Incredible View of Bali

With a two hour drive ahead of us, we left the city late that afternoon.  The traffic began to lessen and the scenery to change in the most dramatic of ways.  We traded in our stoplights and highways for mountains and rice fields.  It was a quiet, relaxing drive and we made several stops to take some photos and enjoy the countryside.

31 130101, D3 Season for Durian Fruit

We had been driving for about twenty minutes when Wayan’s wife, Candra noticed the fruit market on the side of the road.  The fruit hanging from the poles is the durian fruit and when I told them I had not tried it before, they were happy to stop.

As soon as we exited the car, the strong smell of kerosene was overwhelming.  In addition to its scent,  the fruit has a spiky exterior.  The durian’s pungent odor is one of its characteristics, but if you can get past it, the flesh is said to have a nutty custard flavor. The market provides free samples, so with a little coaching, I tried it.

I was happy that there were other fruit selections available as well, so I purchased bananas, rambutan and another local favorite, the starfruit.D3 Ulun Danu Temple, Bali

Our small snack of fruit was enough to tie us over until lunch, and it was time to make another stop.  As we pulled into the Ulun Danu Temple, Wayan mentioned that this location is one of the most photographed temples in Bali.  He knew that I wanted to see Bali’s dramatic landscapes and the view of the temple surrounded by the misty mountains was magical.

33 D3 Bakso Ayam, aka Chicken Noodle Soup

Close to the temple was a small food stand where we could order authentic Balinese food.  I tried the Bakso soup made of chicken and noodles in a bone broth and had a small order of spinach chips with a peanut crust.  The meal was extremely fresh and satisfying.

D3 Pier at Baratan Lake, Bali

Across from the food stand, children and teens were hanging out with their friends on the pier.  Some were holding fishing poles while other seemed to be catching up on the latest gossip at school.  We sat along the deck and gazed out into the scenic view before continuing our journey towards Singaraja.

_DSC1261

Soon after leaving the temple, the sky began to darken.  Passing a small group of trees, I noticed a monkey on the side of the road.  The children were just as excited to see him so we pulled over for a closer look.  He reappeared in the clearing along with a couple of friends and seemed so unafraid of humans.

Pande, Wayan’s oldest son, told me about the temple near their home where several monkeys lived.  Wayan and Candra mentioned that it was on our way to the celebration that we would be attending later in the week.

I thought about that monkey the rest of our drive into Lovina Beach and about the fact that he had no fear of people.  Candra said that the monkeys are a protected animal on the island and that they find refuge in the many temples.

We arrived at the Aditya Beach Resort where I had made my reservations, checking in around 9.  I said goodbye to the Sunarsa family, who would meet back up with me in a couple of days.

My room was perfect and I was so tired that I knew it would be another great night of sleep.  As the Indonesians say, Selamat Malam!  (Good night!)

Have you visited the island of Bali?  Where did you stay and what did you do?  I would love to hear about your adventure if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for following my visit to the island of Bali!  Happy Travels!

Disclosure:   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

What to See and What to Do:

Erlangga 2 Shopping Center
Jalan Nusa Kambangan no. 162
Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia

  • Admission Cost:  Free, open to the public
  • Hours:  8AM to 10PM
  • Amenities:  Food court close to venue
  • Length of Time to Visit: 2 – 3 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Best kept secret for souvenirs and local items at inexpensive prices.  Some of the best deals on woodwork, sarongs, souvenirs, t-shirts, Bali textiles and artwork.

Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
Jalan Raya Candi Kunung-Bedugul
Tabanan, Bali, Indonesia

Where to Stay: 

Aditya Beach Resort
Jalan Raya Lovina, Lovina Beach, North Bali, Indonesia
Telephone:  +62 362 41059
Email:  info@adityalovinabali.com

Where to Eat: 

Ulun Danu Bratan Temple – Food Stalls
Jalan Raya Candi Kunung-Bedugul
Tabanan, Bali, Indonesia

I cannot get enough of the Bakso soup.  I love the spices and it tastes so fresh!!

What to Eat: 

  • Babi Guling:  Suckling pig, which is similar to BBQ pork in the US.
  • Bakso Soup:  Indonesian soup made with meatballs, noodles, spices, vegetables and broth
  • Gado-Gado:  A cold salad of vegetables served with a peanut sauce
  • Nasi Goreng:  Fried noodles with lots of vegetables and a choice of meat, topped with peanuts and an egg.
  • Pisang Goreng:  Fried Bananas, served with palm sugar, honey, flaked coconut or ice cream
  • Sate Ayam:  Chicken on a stick usually served with a peanut sauce
  • Spring Rolls:  Crispy pastry filled with minced meat and mixed vegetables and then fried, usually served with a chili sauce

What to Read:

  • Balilicious, by Becky Wicks
  • Eat, Pray, Love, by Elizabeth Gilbert
  • A House in Bali, by Colin McPhee
  • Love and Death in Bali, by Vicky Baum
  • Snowing in Bali, by Kathryn Bonella
  • Under the Volcano: A story of Bali, by Cameron Forbes

Photo Guide for North Bali:

  • Git Git Waterfall
  • Mount Batur
  • Sekumpal Waterfalls
  • Tamblingan Lake
  • Twin Lakes Viewpoint

6 - D3 Balinese Rain Forest

Forest on the Way to North Bali

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Bali, Indonesia: Amazing Culture, Phenomenal Nature

8 January 202222 September 2024

1-130101 Rice Fields in Bali

Rice Fields Heading to Northern Bali

Bali had been on my bucket list for years, so taking advantage of the Christmas holiday season, I decided it was time to make the trip.  I wasn’t sure when I would have the opportunity again, so I booked my travel to stay for two weeks starting on New Year’s Eve.  I was taking a chance on the weather because the rainy season is between December and January and trying to find a hotel over New Year’s was proving to be a challenge.

D2 The coast of Bali from the Plane

Balinese Fishing Boats

At the last minute, all of my travel plans were confirmed and the day of my flight had finally arrived. What an adventure!

It’s New Year’s Eve and the plane was beginning its approach for landing. The view from my window was a picturesque setting, typical of island life.  The fishing vessels, shrimp boats and scenic cruises scattered along the shoreline and the weather was a balmy 80 degrees.

4 - Visa on Arrival for Bali

A sample of the Indonesian Visa, Immigration

As I exited the plane, I followed the crowd of passengers into the open air terminal.  Indonesia requires Americans to purchase a 30-day visa which is available on arrival at the airport.  Although the lines were long, the process was quick.  Once I passed through customs, I waited at an outside café to meet up with my cruise ship friend, Wayan Sunarsa and his family.

D2 Waitress at the Snack Bar

My Waitress at the Snack Bar

Trying to reach Wayan by phone, the lines were busy and the traffic was packed.  I later learned that the drive from Singaraja (located in northern Bali) took twice the amount of time to reach the airport because of the New Year’s holiday.  While waiting, at the snack bar,  I ordered a fruity cocktail to start the celebration and enjoyed some downtime watching the crowded terminal.

D2 Ngurah Rai Airport, Bali

The Entrance to the Ngurah Rai Airport of Bali

Located in the Bali’s capital of Denpasar, the Ngurah Rai Airport is adorned with statues representing the island’s Hindu religion. It is conveniently located in the southern part of Bali within minutes of the more popular tourist destinations such as Kuta, Ubud and Jimbaran.  The grounds of the airport were well-manicured with beautiful tropical flowers and palm trees and I could not help taking in my paradisal surroundings.

2- Hindu Offering

An Indonesian sacrifice at one of the many alters on the island of Bali

The stories I had heard about Bali were legendary.  Laid-back and friendly, this extraordinary, Indonesian island offers spectacular scenery, phenomenal food and a fascinating culture.  Indonesia is predominantly Muslim except for the island of Bali which is Hindu.  Bali is a magnificent paradise where temples suspend from scenic mountainsides and sacrifices line the streets giving thanks to their Hindu gods.

3-D2 New Years Eve Dinner with Sunarsas

The Sunarsa Family

Most people are familiar with the Bali that is depicted in movies like Eat, Pray, Love.  Of course the scenery is breathtaking, but the people of Bali have an exuberant passion for life.  In addition to the sites of the island, I wanted to explore their Hindu way of life through religious celebrations, monuments and everyday traditions.  I was excited to meet up with the Sunarsas who were happy to show me around South Bali during the New Year’s celebration.

D2 Garuda Statue up Close

Garuda Statue

We finished dinner, watched the fireworks and enjoyed the festivities along the beach.  Although it was late, Wayan and his family wanted to show me Wisnu Park in the nearby town of Ulu Watu.   Known for its enormous statue of the Hindu god Garuda, the park is open each day and provides year around entertainment.

We would need to start driving north towards Lovina early in the morning, so we found the Hard Rock Hotel in Kuta and checked in. It was a long day of travel for me and I was exhausted.  I fell asleep quickly but not before thinking about the fact that I had just spent New Year’s Eve in Bali!  I was so happy to be starting the new year in such a beautiful place. Happy New Year!  Or as they say in Bali, Tahun Baru!

Have you visited Bali?  I would love to hear about where you stayed, what you ate and which attractions you visited if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading my blog post about Bali!  Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park
Jalan Raya Uluwatu
Ungasan, Kuta, Selatan, Badung, Bali, Indonesia 80364
Telephone: +62 361 700 808

  • Admission Fee:  Varies depending on entertainment and events
  • Hours:  Daily from 8:00AM to 10:00PM
  • Amenities:  Entertainment venue, shopping, restaurants with spectacular views (Beranda and Jendela Bali, gardens and plaza for entertaining, street theater, Segway rental, cultural performances, wedding venue, photo studio.
  • Scenic View:   Gorgeous views of Bali from the park; dine at one of two restaurants for additional views.
  • Length of the Tour:  Minimum of 1 hour
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Visit the park’s website for upcoming events and performances.

Where to Stay:

Hard Rock Hotel Bali
Jalan Pantai
Banjar Pande Mas
Kuta, Bali, Indonesia
Telephone:  +62 361 761 869

Where to Eat:

Seafood House Restaurant
Jalan Kartika Plaza
Kuta, Kabupaten Badung, Bali  80361
Telephone:  +62 361 763900

I tried to eat as much seafood as I possibly could while I was in Bali. The fresh food and spices are unlike any other that I have tried.  I ordered the fried red snapper and the bakso soup for a filling lunch.

What to Eat: 

  • Babi Guling:  Suckling pig, which is similar to BBQ pork in the US.
  • Bakso Soup:  Indonesian soup made with meatballs, noodles, spices, vegetables and broth
  • Gado-Gado:  A cold salad of vegetables served with a peanut sauce
  • Nasi Goreng:  Fried noodles with lots of vegetables and a choice of meat, topped with peanuts and an egg.
  • Pisang Goreng:  Fried Bananas, served with palm sugar, honey, flaked coconut or ice cream
  • Sate Ayam:  Chicken on a stick usually served with a peanut sauce
  • Spring Rolls:  Crispy pastry filled with minced meat and mixed vegetables and then fried, usually served with a chili sauce

What to Read:

  • Balilicious, by Becky Wicks
  • Eat, Pray, Love, by Elizabeth Gilbert
  • A House in Bali, by Colin McPhee
  • Love and Death in Bali, by Vicky Baum
  • Snowing in Bali, by Kathryn Bonella
  • Under the Volcano: A story of Bali, by Cameron Forbes

Photo Guide for North Bali:

  • Git Git Waterfall
  • Mount Batur
  • Sekumpal Waterfalls
  • Tamblingan Lake
  • Twin Lakes Viewpoint

50 D2 - Destination Bali

Flight information from Taipai

D2 Pande in front of Garuda Statue

A perspective of the magnitude of Garuda’s Head

D2 Wisnu Head and Torso

Wisnu, more commonly known as Vishnu is the supreme being of the Hindu religion

D2 A look at Bali from the plane

The island of Bali as seen from the Airplane

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Strolling Through Old San Juan, Puerto Rico (Part 1)

5 March 201817 September 2024

1 The Streets of San Juan, PR

Arriving in San Juan, Puerto Rico, the weather was absolutely perfect.  I hailed a taxi into the heart of downtown to my hotel at the Plaza de las Armas.

After a great night’s sleep, I awoke excited to begin the walking tour I had downloaded online.  I stopped for a coffee and sat at a table in the square, surrounded by pastel-colored buildings and cobblestone streets,  I watched the pigeons looking for food and noticed the early risers exploring the heart of downtown San Juan.  After a few moments of taking in the beauty of Puerto Rico’s capitol city, I started my walk towards the pier.

2 La Casita, San Juan, PR, 1.24.16

The walking tour began at La Casita ending at Castillo de San Felipe del Morro.  Another option to reach the starting point is to take the trolley to stop 13 at the Plaza Darsena, Casita, San Juan Bay.

Arriving at La Casita at 9AM, I realized it was closed and found a nearby café for a second cup of coffee while taking in the views of the harbor.

3 Coffee from Cafe Colao, PR, 1.24.16

While ordering my coffee at  Café Colao, I was excited to see the Carnival Liberty was already in port.   It reminded me of my younger days of working for the cruise lines and embarkation day.  It had been awhile since I had cruised and I was looking forward to revisiting some of the amazing ports of call on this itinerary.

4 Blue Cobblestones, San Juan, PR, 1.24.16

The self-guided tour took me through some of Old San Juan’s 400 historical sites.  The  town is considered the second oldest settlement founded by the Europeans in 1521.

I couldn’t help but notice the cobalt blue cobblestone streets throughout San Juan.  These pavers were once used as weights to balance the trade ships on their way to Puerto Rico. Once the ships arrived, these ballasts were then removed to make room for the exported sugar cane going out from the island.   The locals re-purposed the beautiful brick-like stone to develop the streets of this charming, historical wonderland and the local pigeons seemed to love them.

5 Tree Lined paseo de la Princesa, SJ, PR, 1.24.16

With my back toward the bay, I made a left and began walking towards the Paseo de la Princesa.  I was excited to see the Raices Fountain during the day and the expansive ocean view during the daylight hours.   The tree lined promenade led  me to the Raices fountain which had been busy with local teens and lit up the night before.

6 Puerto Rico Tourism Company, formerly the jail, 1.24.16

Before reaching the fountain, I noticed the beautifully decorated Puerto Rico Tourism Company which was once the Carcel de la Princesa, the San Juan jail. Built in 1837, the penitentiary was in use until 1976 when it was determined that the conditions were inhumane for prisoners, both local and political. While this building is the headquarters for Puerto Rico’s tourism, visitors can explore the three prison cells and tour the small courtyard where prisoners were executed by hanging.

7 Raices Statue in San Juan Puerto Rico, 1.24.16

With the bay in the background, the beautiful Raices fountain was now ahead of me and as the temperatures continued to rise, I wished I could have jumped in.  The elegant bronze sculpture, reminding me of the Roman fountains, was designed by Spanish artist Luis Sanguion.  It is called “Raices” meaning roots and symbolizes the roots of Puerto Rico’s African, Spanish and Taino cultures.

The central figure of the wild horse seems to rise out of the fountain in a full gallop as a young child scans to watch the horizon from sunrise to sunset.  The two dolphins jumping out of the water represent the Puerto Rican character of kindness and gentleness while a woman offers gifts of garlands and local delicacies to the island’s visitors.  To the left of the fountain are sculptures of a family and the native jibaro is represented to the right.  The central female figure stands for the independence of Puerto Rico as if she is attempting to reach the stars.

8 Tree-lined walkway along the bay, San Juan, PR, 1.24.16

The tree-shaded walkway wrapped along the bay as joggers sped by me on their morning run. A strong wind picked up as I continued walking through the tunnel-like pathway, where the twisted roots of trees resembled the Banyan.  Interesting spikes rose up from the ground as I continued my stroll towards the Puerta de San Juan.

12 Garita, Guard Tower, SJU, PR, 1.24.16

I soon began to realize I was following along the fortification walls of the Paseo del Morro when I noticed the garita above.  The pathway split heading towards the entrance to the fort but I took an alternate route leading to the top of the city gate, ending my walk along the Paseo de la Princesa.  Standing inside the guard tower, the symbol of San Juan, I was amazed by the stunning views of the cove where Spanish ships once anchored.

15 Puerta de San Juan, SJU, PR, 1.24.16

Only three of the six city gates remain. One of them, the Puerta de San Juan.  Spanish traders would unload their supplies, pass through the massive wooden doors under the red arch and exit through the 1630s-tunnel to enter the city.  When this main gate was in use, the doors would be closed at sundown to protect the residents from potential invaders and reopened the next morning.  Once the tunnel was open, sailors would walk through the passageway towards the cathedral at the top of the hill to thank God for their safe passage.

17 Gato in San Juan, PR, 1.24.16

Instead of taking a right along the Paseo del Morro and the old city walls, I decided to continue up the hill towards the Catedral de San Juan (The San Juan Cathedral).  Several feral cats were hanging around, protected by San Juan’s Parks Department.  They had been neutered, spayed and vaccinated through a local program called “Save a Gato.”

18, San Juan Cathedral, 1.24.16

At the top of the hill, I reached the San Juan Cathedral where explorer Ponce de Leon and martyr St. Pio are buried.  A mass was taking place inside, but I couldn’t help but peek into the church as I continued my walk.  The cathedral dates back to 1540, but updates and renovations have given this church its Gothic-Neoclassical style.   I noted the inscription above the entrance, “Misericordia” which translates to “mercy”.  Pope John Paul II visited the church in 1984.

20 Totem Pole, San Juan, PR, 1.24.16

Making a left on Calle del Cristo, I reached the Plaza del Quinto Centenario and its El Totem Telurico, designed by local artist Jaime Suarez.  The square was designed for the 500-year celebration of Columbus’ initial voyage to the Americas, which took place in 1992 at a rumored cost of $10 million.  Popular with both tourists and locals, this square offers a glamorous view of the El Morro fort and the infinite ocean.

21 Sheep at Plaza del Quinto Centenario, SJU, PR, 1.24.16

As I walked down the stairs towards the coastline, I passed a pair of life-like sheep flanking the steps before reaching the fountain at the bottom.  Children were playing around the water, splashing each other to cool off from the afternoon heat and vendors were selling water and soft drinks nearby.

22 El Morro in the Distance, SJU, PR, !.24.16

With El Morro in sight, I stood for a moment to enjoy the view of the fort and the nearby cemetery.  I promised myself I would return after my cruise.  I enjoyed leisurely stroll through the streets of Old San Juan and enjoyed the memories of being here so many years ago.

Have you visited San Juan and walked through the historic Old San Juan?  What were some of your favorite sites or stops along with way?  I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about our walking tour in Old San Juan and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

Puerto Rico Tourism Company
500 Ochoa Building, Cll Tanca, San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00902
Phone:  787 721 2400 extension 3901

Contact the  local office for hours of operation and to inquire when the interim jail is open.

Bacardi Rum Factory
Carretera 165, Catano, Puerto Rico
Phone:  787 788 8400

  • Admission Fee: $13 for the historic tour, lasting approximately 45 minutes, includes guided tour of the Bacardi Visitor Center, Commemorative Bacardi Cup, Bacardi Welcome Cocktail for adults, Access to the Self-Fill Experience  & Retail Shop, Complimentary WiFi on property.  The site recommends that you arrive 30 minutes prior to your tour time to allow for registration and to enjoy your Welcome Drink.

$50 for the Rum Tasting Tour, lasting approximately 90 minutes, to learn how Bacardi makes their premium wines, the history of the company and taste five Bacardi rums including Legacy, exclusively available at Casa Bacardi. Visit the distillery, the “Cathedral of Rum” a Bacardi Specialist will lead you through the tasting and help you understand the five unique premium rums. This tour includes tasting of five premium rums, Commemorative Bacardi Cup, Bacardi Welcome Cocktail for adults, Access to the Self-Fill Experience  & Retail Shop, Complimentary WiFi on property.  (Must be over the Legal Drinking Age to participate). The site recommends that you arrive 30 minutes prior to your tour time to allow for registration and to enjoy your Welcome Drink.

$60 for the Mixology Experience, to last approximately 90 minutes, to include your own bar set up where you will prepare three basic Bacardi cocktails, Commemorative Bacardi Cup, Bacardi Welcome Cocktail for adults, Distillery Visit, Access to Bottle your own Bacardi, Access to the Self-Fill Experience  & Retail Shop, Complimentary WiFi on property. (You must be over the Legal Drinking Age to participate). The site recommends that you arrive 30 minutes prior to your tour time to allow for registration and to enjoy your Welcome Drink.  Children are not permitted.

$160 for the Bottle Your Own Bacardi Experience, includes a full-size bottle of Special Reserve rum exclusively available at Casa Bacardi, a special padded box to preserve your personalized bottle of Special Reserve, recording your name and bottle number in the Casa Bacardi registry, high resolution photo of you and your freshly filled bottle in front of the numbered barrel at Casa Bacardi. This experience takes place in the Self Fill area of our retail shop, Complimentary WiFi and Complimentary parking on site.

  • Hours:  Tuesday to Friday from 9AM, last tour starts at 4:30PM; Saturday to Sunday from 12 noon, last tour starts at 4:30PM;  Closed Mondays.
  • Length of Visit:  Depending on the Bacardi Experience
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Please ensure that you arrive in the required time to register and enjoy your welcome drink.  Some Bacardi events require that you be of Legal Drinking Age.

San Juan Cathedral
151 Calle del Cristo, San Juan, Puerto Rico 00902
Phone:  787 722 0861

  • Admission Fee:  Free, but donations are gladly accepted.
  • Hours:  Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday from 9AM to 11:30AM and from 2PM to 4PM; Friday from 9AM to noon.  Please visit the cathedral’s website for worship services.
  • Amenities:  Services and Sacraments provided
  • Length of Visit:  Less than 1 hour
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Enter with reverence and remain quiet in respect of other visitors. Dress appropriately covering your shoulders and knees.

San Jose Church
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Phone:  787 918 3800

The church is currently closed for renovation and to raise fund for conservation.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro
Calle Norzagaray, San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Phone:  787 729 6960

  • Admission Fee:  $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
  • Hours:  Open daily from 9AM to 6PM.  Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
  • Amenities:  Gift shop and restrooms
  • Scenic Views:  Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
  • Length of Visit:  2 – 3 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises.  Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water.  (Carts outside sell water). Don’t miss the Dungeon at Castillo San Cristobel!

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas
San Jose Street 202
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Phone:  866 599 6674

Amenities:  Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

*Hotel was prepaid costing $150 per night.  We arranged for a queen sized bed, room without a window, non-smoking and guaranteed late arrival.

Where to Eat: 

Café Colao
Calle Marina, San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Phone:  787 725 4139

Cute little coffee shop down by the Port of Puerto Rico

What to Eat: 

  • MOFONGO!  This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan.  Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
  • Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
  • Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
  • Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
  • Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
  • Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
  • Pastelon:  San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
  • The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.

What to Read: 

  • The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
  • The House on the Lagoon by Rosario Ferre
  • Simone by Eduardo Lalo
  • Mundo Cruel by Luis Negron
  • La Llamarada by Enrique Laguerre
  • Song of the Simple Truth by Julia de Burgos

Photo Guide for San Juan, Puerto Rico

  • La Perla in Old San Juan for its colorful umbrellas
  • The cobblestone streets and colorful buildings of Old San Juan
  • The Forts in Old San Juan

Disclosure:   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

23 Fountain at the Square near La Casita, 1.24.16

Square located beside La Casita

24 DSC_0174

Pelican gliding above the bay

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Look closely at the inscription above the door “Benedictus qui venit in nomine domini”

10 Spike Sculpture, San Juan, PR, 1.24.16

The Spikes in San Juan

11 The Bacardi Rum Factory, SJ, PR, 1.24.16

Bacardi Rum Factory

18 San Juan Park, 1.24.16

A Cat Sculpture in a San Juan Park

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A Stroll Along Constitution Avenue, San Juan, PR

29 January 201816 September 2024

1 Antigua Casino, San Juan Puerto Rico

Riding the shuttle towards El Morro, I noticed a street of beautiful Spanish mansions and monuments that seemed like a great morning walk.

The next morning, I grabbed my workout clothes and shoes and headed out to a sunny day with mild temperatures.  Starting at Plaza Colon (Columbus Square), I began my run heading towards the ocean until I reached San Juan’s Antiguo Casino.   This statuesque Spanish and French-style marvel was built to entertain the Old San Juan’s socialites.   Designed by architect Carlos del Valle, this gorgeous palace was completed in 1917 on the site of one of the original city gates, la Puerta de Santiago.

Later, the casino was converted into the Free School of Music and by 1955, the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture.  With its majestic staircase and magnificent twelve-foot chandelier and stunning gardens are the property of the Government Reception Center.  The location hosts corporate functions, formal weddings and festive galas.

2 Ateneo Puertorriqueno, San Juan, 2.1.16

Within minutes I start my approach towards the Ateneo Puertorriqueno, Puerto Rico’s Athenaeum. While the structure was beautiful and elegant, the architecture appeared more Middle Eastern with its tile and beautiful white stucco.  Built as an educational center, its primary endeavor was to provide high learning for the Puerto Rican people. Built in 1876, it now has many uses serving as a museum, performance hall, library and  school.

3 Casa de Espana, San Juan, 2.1.16

Beautiful palm trees accentuate the facade of the exquisite Casa de Espana.  Looking regal with its Moorish architecture, the House of Spain was once a meeting place for Spanish Puerto Rican citizens.  Inside, the two stories are decorated with multiple arches and splendid views from the upper level.  Outside the plaza and its fountain are optimal for capturing photos.  Bringing a bit of Spain to the island, the venue’s gorgeous interior is perfect for weddings and special occasions.  4 Monumento A La Policia, Police Monument, SJU, 2.1.16

With so much to see along my run, I eventually came upon a section of monuments beginning with the Police Monument of San Juan and slowed down to check them out. The large obelisk, carved with a listing of names, honors the policemen and policewomen who have died in the line of duty while serving the island of Puerto Rico.

5 DSC_0539

I was fascinated with the Plaza de los Leones and the regal lions that guarded the square.  Not much is written about this beautiful plaza  with the exception of a letter dated 1938.  The note states that the “plazoleta”, having undergone restoration, had been damaged by vandals soon after the completion of the renovations.   Because of the vandalism, the square was not properly inaugurated and even to this day, the site remains “under construction.”

6 Teachers, Monument, San Juan, PR, 2.1.16

Approaching the bronze statue of the girl and the globe, I knew this beautiful sculpture somehow represented the children of the island.  Dedicated to the teachers of Puerto Rico, it goes without saying that the people here are appreciative of the educators who give back to their community daily.  A list of some of the most notable teachers are inscribed on this additional monument and dedication.

7 DSC_0548

Up a set of stairs sits a granite wall surrounding a tall statue.  The El Monumento de la Recordacion, or the Monument of Remembrance, recognizes the Puerto Ricans who had given their life in combat under the armed forces of the United States.  The memorial was unveiled in 1996 and contains over 2,000 names.

8 Altar de la Patria, San Juan, PR, 2.1.16

Before reaching the Paseo de los Presidentes, I approached a stunning mural with an arbor as its backdrop. Demonstrating the history and culture of the Puerto Ricans it was one of the most ornate sculptures I had ever seen.  A bronze statue, know as The altar de la Patria, took center stage.

Moving towards the coast, there were several bronze busts of past Puerto Rican governors as the grassy park extended towards the roadway.   Crossing back up towards the Capitol building I eventually entered the Paseo de los Presidentes.

9 DSC_0554

Located directly across the street from San Juan’s Capitol was a line of life-sized bronze statues.  Taking a closer look, I soon realized they represented six of the US Presidents who have visited the island since the late 19th century.  Bronze plaques provide a short summary of each leader’s purpose for their visit and what they had accomplished during their stay.

Before finishing my morning of exercise, I wanted to make one last stop.  Heading back away from the coast and towards Columbus Square, I reached the Capitol building and decided to go inside for a quick visit.

10 DSC_0576

The Capitol building, more formerly known as El Capitolio de Puerto Rico is located across from the El Monumento de la Recordacion and the Paseo de los Presidentes.

I felt so small standing at the bottom of the steps looking up towards the Capitol building.  I could see the security checkpoint and was a bit nervous as I climbed my way to the top.

As I approached the columned facade, I approached the opened door where two men in uniform were waiting at the entrance.  While concerned that I was not dressed properly, they escorted me to the metal detector and mentioned the forum was open for visitors.

11 DSC_0560

A short walk away from the security checkpoint,  I was standing beneath an exquisite dome painted with local scenes.  A true masterpiece of art, I could not take my eyes off of the intricate details of the stunning murals.   At each corner, colorful depictions tell the story of Puerto Rico’s important historical events.  One represents Columbus’ arrival to Puerto Rico, while another, the end of slavey and the end of the Spanish American War.

Before exiting the building, I happened to notice a wooden table with a glass cover at the other side of the room.  Approaching the furniture piece, I could see the placard that identified the document as the Constitution of Puerto Rico.

Standing at the top of the steps, I looked out onto a more quieter San Juan, there were  a few additional monuments to explore.

12 DSC_0579

Reaching the San Juan Holocaust, I was reminded of the horrific treatment of Jews  during the Second World War.  Various plaques in both Spanish and English provided some of the historical facts of this atrocity.  Nearby, the Path of the Righteous memorialized those who assisted the Jews and others that fell victim in the pursuit of trying to protect their Jewish friends and neighbors.  Risking their lives they were true heroes and are duly honored here.

Within a few steps, I approached one of the most recent monuments dating to the late 1970s.  It was here that I learned about the Lod Airport massacre where three Japanese terrorists attacked the terminal in 1972.   Seventeen pilgrims from Puerto Rico lost their lives during the assault which resulted in 26 deaths and 80 injuries.

As I completed run and exploration along Constitution Avenue, I learned so much about the people and history of Puerto Rico. The highlight of my visit was the Capitol building  and as I completed my morning run,  I had certainly worked up an appetite. I think it’s time to continue my education of the culture of Puerto Rico and try some authentic Puerto Rican food. Next stop…..Raices!

During your travels, do you immerse yourself in the history and culture of the place you were visiting? Where was that place and what did you learn? I would love to hear your story if you would kindly leave your comments below! Many thanks for reading about our walk along the Constitution Avenue.  Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

San Juan’s Antiguo Casino
Ponce de Leon Ave and Norzagaray
San Juan, PR  00901
Telephone: 787 641 7722 (Open by appointment only)

Ateneo Puertorriqueño
Telephone:  787 721 3877 (Open by appointment only)

Casa de Espana
Ave. Constitución #9,
San Juan, PR 00901
Telephone: 939 272 4054, 787 724 1044 or 787 722 3611
(Open by appointment only)

El Capitolio de Puerto Rico
Ponce de Leon and Munoz Riviera Aves.
San Juan, PR  00901
Telephone:  787 721 5200 extension 301

  • Admission Fee:  Free
  • Hours:  Open Monday through Friday from 8:30 AM to 5 PM.
  • Amenities:   Tours are given in Spanish and English
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours, depending on if you take the tour
  • Tips for Your Visit:  You will be required to pass through security to enter.

Where to Stay: 

Hotel Plaza de Armas Old San Juan
202 Calle San Jose
San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Telephone:  787 722 9191

Amenities:  Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

Where to Eat: 

Raices Restaurant
#315 Recinte Sur Street
San Juan, Puerto Rico
Telephone:  787 289 2121

What to Eat: 

  • MOFONGO!  This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan.  Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
  • Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
  • Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
  • Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
  • Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
  • Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
  • Pastelon:  San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
  • The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.

What to Read: 

  • The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
  • The House on the Lagoon by Rosario Ferre
  • Simone by Eduardo Lalo
  • Mundo Cruel by Luis Negron
  • La Llamarada by Enrique Laguerre
  • Song of the Simple Truth by Julia de Burgos

Photo Guide for San Juan, Puerto Rico:

  • La Perla in Old San Juan for its colorful umbrellas
  • The cobblestone streets and colorful buildings of Old San Juan
  • The Forts in Old San Juan

20 American Red Cross, Capitol of Puerto Rico

The American Red Cross of San Juan

21 DSC_0556

Walkway of the Presidents

22 DSC_0557

The Capitol Building in San Juan

23 DSC_0562

Ending the Spanish-American War

24 DSC_0563

The End of Slavery in Puerto Rico

25 DSC_0564

First Encounter with the Tainos

26 DSC_0561

Christopher Columbus Arriving in Puerto Rico

27 DSC_0578

The Holocaust Memorial, San Juan

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Catching Up with Cats at the Divine Felines Exhibit, Cincinnati

15 September 201616 September 2024

IMG_1817

Having just visited the Pharaoh Exhibit at the Cleveland Museum of Art, I was excited to learn that the Cincinnati Art Museum would be showcasing their own Egyptian display titled “Divine Felines”.  Presenting artifacts from Egypt with a cat theme, I could not wait to make the trek down to Cincinnati to learn more about the ancient domestication of my favorite animal.

IMG_1840

Recumbent Lion, Ptolomaic Period, 305 – 35BC, Reportedly from Giza

Cats, both domestic and wild, played an important role in the every day lives of the ancient Egyptians representing symbols of protection, fertility, beauty and sexuality.  For example, the resting lion symbolized the country’s tranquility as well as the confidence and power of the king.   Stones or glass were embedded into the eyes of the sculptures to show the watchful nature of the mysterious feline.

IMG_1825

Lion shaped furniture leg, during the reign of Aspelta, 690-664 BC

According to archaeologists, the ancient Egyptians were the first to use the image of cats as elements of architectural design. Cats and lions were found carved in items that were used on a daily basis to include furniture, weapons and cosmetic items.

IMG_1826

Fragmentary Inscription, Dynasty 25 – Dynasty 26, 670 – 650 BC

Pictures and paintings of lions were a common theme in Egyptian hieroglyphs.  At least four images of lions were utilized as one of many animal shapes represented in hieroglyphic designs. These shapes include the standing lion, recumbent lion, full-bodied lion, the forepart lion which included its front legs and head as well as the hind parts of the lion (its legs and tail).

IMG_1842

Sculptor’s Model Bust of a Lion, Ptolomaic Period

The Egyptians were fascinated by the prowess of the lions, their ferocity and ability to move quickly. Considered positive qualities that were often used to describe Egyptian gods and Pharaohs, these characteristics were the primary attributes that symbolized their divinity and royal standing.

IMG_1829

Necklace with Bes and Taweret Pendants, Dynasty 18, 1539 – 1292 BC

Jewels made into the likeness of Bes, the goddess of fertility and protection, were worn by women of child-bearing age or during their pregnancy.  These trinkets were used to ensure the safe-keeping of the child until birth.  Bes was depicted as a man with a lion’s head and tail.   The images also took on the form of a lioness or a woman with a lion’s head, representing the daughter of Ra, the Sun god.

IMG_1878

Roman Period, 1st Century Reportedly from Saqqara, Egypt

Tutu was the male equivalent of Bes, taking the form of a pacing sphinx with the tail of a snake.  He was known for protecting the dead in the Afterworld and for taking charge of one’s fate.

IMG_1848

Coffin of a Cat, Late Period, Dynasty 26 – Dynasty 31, 664 BC- 332 BC, or later

The Sarcophagus of a cat mummy showed the importance of cats as pets to the ancient Egyptians.  According to the placard, “Most cat mummies were buried in either rectangular or cat shaped coffins made of wood. Carved from costly limestone and decorated with scenes that typically appear on coffins of humans, this sarcophagus may have belonged to a pet cat.  A scene on the shorter side to your left shows the deceased cat in front of an offering table, flanked by the goddesses Isis and Nephthys.  Isis protectively spreads her wings around one of the longer sides of the sarcophagus.”

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Roundel, 5th Century BC, depicting dogs as pets

Just as cats were highly regarded by the Egyptians as both pets and deities, dogs and jackals also had a place in the lives of the ancient Egyptians.  The dog’s ability to protect its territory and their loyalty to their owners were attributes that were important to the rulers.  Evidence of dogs as pets can be traced back to the 5th millennium BC.

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In addition to Tutu, there were several dog deities including Wepwewat, a god that would lead the dead through the passages of the Underworld and provided them protection.  The name means “Opener of the Ways” and comes from the dog’s keen sense of smell and its ability to escape danger.

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Anubia was another dog deity that was so named due to the dog’s extreme sense of smell.  He was responsible for protecting the deceased in the Underworld.

According to the museum, a fragment on display “represents Anubia lying on the top of shrines, coffins, or canopic chests, which were boxes containing jars with the internal organs of the deceased.” It was difficult to determine if the figures were those of dogs or jackals, as both were portrayed as black.

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Even as late as the 2nd Century when Rome ruled over Egypt, the influence of Egyptian gods were present in the carvings of the Roman-Egyptian cities.  As depicted in the funerary stela of C. Julius Valerius, the Egyptian god Horus and the Roman-Greco god Nemesis were present as well as the dog, representing either Anubis or Wepwawet.  Just as in the Egyptian culture, the dog led and guarded the deceased through the Afterworld.

It was not surprising that the characteristics of both cats and dogs were highly admired by the Egyptians.  Independent or loyal, swift or sassy, the importance of these furry friends continues even into today’s culture.

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In addition to the Egyptian exhibit, I learned the museum was hosting a “Modern Cats” collection.  With over 20 pieces on display, the artwork was added to demonstrate the “lasting appeal of the domestic feline”.   I enjoyed exploring the cat-themed pieces proving that even today, cats are an important part of our global culture.

Which attributes of your pet also resemble your character? Are you surprised that the Egyptian culture developed a fondness for cats in their religion and everyday lives?  I would love to hear your thoughts if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my visit to the Cincinnati Art Museum to check out the Divine Felines Exhibit.  Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Cincinnati Art Museum
953 Eden Park Drive
Cincinnati, OH  45202
Telephone:  513 721 2787

  • Admission Fee: General Admission is Free.  Special Event Ticket Pricing is $12 for Adults, $6 for Seniors (60+), Students and Children (6-17) and children under 5 are FREE.  Exhibit hours on Thursday from 5 PM- 8 PM is free.  Contact the museum’s website for holiday closures.
  • Hours:  Open Tuesday – Sunday from 11AM to 5PM; Closed Monday and open Thursdays from 11AM to 8PM.  Closed on Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.
  • Amenities:  Terrace Cafe, Mary R. Schiff Library, museum shop, Rosenthal Educational Center, gallery map and guides and MyCAM  Art Hunts
  • Length of Visit:  1 to 2 hours, or additional time for special exhibits
  • Tips for Your Visit: Ensure that you have visited the website to confirm that the museum is open, as it may be closed for special events.

Where to Stay:

Millennium Hotel Cincinnati
150 W. 5th Street
Cincinnati, OH  45202
Telephone: 513 352 2100

Where to Eat:

Mt. Adams Bar and Grill
938 Hatch Street
Cincinnati, OH  45202
Telephone: 513 621 3666

I ordered the Fried Jalapeno Ravioli served with marinara sauce.

What to Eat: 

  • Skyline Chili:  My go-to meal at Skyline is the 4-way chili with onion served with oyster crackers and hot sauce.  I always pick up two York peppermint patties after cashing out.  Cincinnati chili is a beef based sauce served over spaghetti noodles and cheese.  Additional toppings include onions and beans.
  • LaRosa’s Pizza:  A local chain pizzeria, this Sicilian style pie is made with a sweet crust and sauce.  My favorite menu item is the Caprese pesto Flatbread Pizza.
  • Graeter’s Ice Cream:  It’s the French Pot process that makes Graeter’s Ice Cream so decadent and rich.  Towards the end of the process, they pour chocolate into the mix creating large chunks of yummy goodness.
  • Montgomery Inn BBQ:  Visiting the original Montgomery Inn BBQ at the boathouse is a culinary and scenic experience.  Their ribs are served with a sweet and tangy sauce that has since made them the “Ribs King” and a favorite among locals.  Load up on their amazing BBQ flavored Saratoga chips,
  • Glier’s Goetta:  While it looks like a slab of corn beef hash, this breakfast staple is made of sausage and oats, cooked until crispy.  Most breakfast restaurants carry it as a side, especially the local cafes and diners.
  • BonBonerie:  One of the most decadent pastry shops in Cincinnati, their rich confections are absolutely amazing.

Where to Drink:

Moerlein Lager House
115 Joe Nuxhall Way
Cincinnati, OH  45202
Telephone:  513 421 2337

Books to Read: 

  • Eligible:  A Modern Retelling of Pride & Prejudice, by Curtis Sittenfeld
  • Running, by J.T. Cooper
  • Dead Witch Walking, by Kim Harrison
  • Beloved, by Toni Morrison
  • Double Dutch, by Sharon M. Draper
  • Romiette and Julio, by Sharon M. Draper

Photo Guide for Cincinnati (as provided by Chris Thompson on FourSquare):

  • The John A Roebling Suspension Bridge
    • Pick a spot near the Covington pier and shoot north toward the Cincinnati skyline.  Shoot at sunset and underexpose by a few stops to get the lights just right.
    • The new lights on the bridge create excellent stars when you photograph them using a narrow aperture (~f/16 and above) on your camera. That means you’ll need a longer exposure (and thus a tripod).
  • General James Taylor Park
    • Shoot from the top of the flag pole mound to get more building reflections in your shot. Shoot at sunset or sunrise for great lighting.
  • Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal
    • Arrive first thing in the morning when the sun is coming up
  • The Fountain at Fountain Square
    • For great photos of the fountain: set your camera on a tripod and use a long exposure (2-5 seconds) to capture the running water. Get Carew or the colored lights above Rock Bottom in the background.
  • Fountain Square (look for reflections in puddles)
  • Celestial Restaurant in Mount Adams – The restaurant is now closed, but you may still be able to use the parking lot.
  • Carew Tower Observation Deck
    • Provides some neat photos of the highways snaking around the city. Set your camera on a tripod and use a long exposure to get moving car trails. It’s only open at sunset a few days each year.
  • Engine Company 46, 2733 Erie Avenue (at Michigan), Cincinnati
    • One of the most beautiful historic firehouses in all of Cincinnati. The firefighters here are used to having their photo taken while they work. Ask nicely and you can get some cool shots.
  • Cincinnati Observatory Center
  • Krohn Conservatory
  • Great American Ball Park
    • Shoot the front of the stadium around sunset to get a nice color blue in the sky. Get one of the player statues in your shot for extra effect.
  • Devou Park
    • The overlook next to the Drees pavilion affords a great view of the Cincinnati skyline. Shoot at sunrise or sunset for the best lighting. Underexpose slightly to get the city lights just right.
  • Newport Central Catholic for fireworks
    • Shoot the Riverfest fireworks from this location. Bring a long lens and a tripod. You’ll want a long-ish exposure (5-10 seconds) to capture the bursts, but make sure the skyline isn’t overexposed.
  • Riverfront Park
    • The colorful fountains make a great subject, but you need to use a relatively fast shutter speed (>1/20 or so) to catch the lights before they change color, leaving your pic with plain white lights.
  • American Sign Museum
    • Be sure to bring a tripod to capture all the signs. Manual white balance is the way to go, because there are so many crazy colors of lights that your camera won’t know how to react.

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Figurine of a Cat during the Late Period Dynasty 26 – Dynasty 31, 664-332 BC or later

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Modern Cat Exhibit

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Modern Cat Exhibit

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Pharaoh Exhibit at the Cleveland Museum of Art

8 September 201616 September 2024

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The Cleveland Museum of Art is known for its impressive impressionist collection and is one of the most visited in the world. I had always wanted to visit and when I learned about an additional exhibit based on an Egyptian collection, I was ready to make the two-drive to explore both exhibitions.

Entering the museum, I was overwhelmed with excitement to view the new exhibit:  Pharaoh, King of Ancient Egypt.  For months, I had been eager to explore this amazing showcase with over 200 ancient artifacts on loan from the British Museum.  This exhibit provided an in-depth insight into the life, customs and culture of the Egyptian Pharaohs who ruled from 3000 BC to 30 BC.

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The ancient Egyptians worshiped hundreds of gods and goddesses. The pharaoh was not only the ruler of the Egyptian kingdom but a religious figure as well. According to their beliefs, the pharaoh, an earthly representation of the god Horus, took human form to keep order within the kingdom of Egypt and to protect its citizens.  Through various rituals, the pharaoh would attempt to please the gods in hopes to grow abundant crops and defeat their enemies.   This was displayed by the 5-foot statue of Seti II seated on his throne while making an offering to the god, Amun, symbolized by a ram’s head on the shrine that Seti is holding.  At the base of the statue is the carved name of Seti II, known in Egypt as a cartouche.

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Once the pharaoh died, the Egyptians believed that he (or she) would be transformed as the god Osiris, the ruler of the underworld.  Within his tomb, offerings of bread, wine and carved figures were given as gifts to the gods.   The goddess Sekhmet was considered the “daughter of Ra”, a very powerful god, associated with the sun.  She could also transform herself into the uraeus, the rearing cobra, displayed on the crown of the pharaohs.

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One exhibit showed the Head of Pharaoh Mentuhotep II, a perfect example of the uraeus.  His white crown symbolized the rule of the land of Upper Egypt while a red crown represented the rule of Lower Egypt.  When the kingdoms were combined, the crown included both symbols of Upper and Lower Egypt.

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In addition to statues, figures were also carved into the lintels of Egypt’s extravagant temples.  The new pharaoh would leave his mark by building his own temple where the writing on the lintel would reference his rule.  The lintel of Amenemhat III is a fine example of what would have been built in the time period of 1859 BC to 1814 BC.

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During the Ptolemaic Period, when Greeks ruled Egypt, the tradition of building temples in the Egyptian style continued.  According to the exhibit placard, it reads, “Pharaoh Ptolemy I presents grass and a papyrus plant to Hathor, goddess of fertility and joy.  These plants symbolized Upper and Lower Egypt; together they represented the unification of the Two Lands.”

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Smaller figurines of the pharaoh and the gods were also carved out of stone or wood while some were sculpted out of bronze.  The jackal head is thought to have represented the god Horus in southern Egypt while the falcon may have been associated with the Horus of Pe in northern Egypt.

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The colorful stela (writing on stone) of Pharaoh Tuthosis IV showed his offering a gift of papyrus and lotus flowers to Amun-Ra and the deified queen Ahmose-Nefertari, who was the wife of Pharaoh Ahmose.   It is believed to have been created somewhere between 1279 BC – 1203 BC by Kha, the man who is carved into the bottom with his arms raised.

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One of my favorite items in the exhibit was the Coffin Case of Bakenmut.  I was taken by surprise at the beautiful artwork displayed both inside and out.  Although not the sarcophagus of a pharaoh, it was the resting place of a member of the clergy of Amun at Thebes, a very rich man.  It is estimated that it was built between 950 BC – 900 BC and made out of sycamore wood.

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On the interior, there are images of two deified kings, Amenhotep I and Tuthmosis III from Dynasty 18.  It is believed that Bakenmut desired to have an association with these kings in the afterlife.

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I also enjoyed the wing of the exhibit that documented the lives of the royal family. Various everyday items displayed included jewelry as well as tiles and reliefs that decorated their opulent living spaces.  One of my favorite pieces was the scarab beetle that dated back between 1391 BC to 1353 BC.  The scarab symbolized immortality, resurrection, transformation and protection and most used to decorate tombs.

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One of the most fascinating artifacts in the collection was the papyrus that dated back to 2454 BC – 2311 BC.  This document revealed the administrative functions and economic procedures of that time period.  For example, lists of offerings, calendars, accounts and inventory have been found by archaeologists and researchers.

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When the pharaoh died elaborate tombs were designed to assist him with his passing and provided him with the items he would need in the afterlife.  For example, many valuable objects would be buried with the pharaoh such as furniture, food and jewels.  One of the most interesting objects was the shabti, a funerary figurine that was said to act as a servant for the deceased, carrying out manual labor after the pharaoh’s death.  The turquoise Shabti of Seti I was said to have been carved from 1294 to 1279 BC.

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Inside of the tomb, reliefs were painted to show images of the pharaoh in the afterlife.  Seti I was the father of Ramses II and his tomb was considered the longest and deepest of all tombs discovered in the Valley of the Kings in Thebes.  The fragment from his tomb has retained its original color and was part of the doorway .

The pharaoh lived a life of luxury not only on earth, but beyond his death.  Valuable artifacts that were once the property of the pharaohs show the extravagant lifestyle for which they were accustomed.  While many of us believe “you can’t take it with you”, the Egyptians would vehemently disagree.

The Pharaohs exhibit at The Cleveland Museum of Art was an insightful opportunity to explore the lives of the Egyptian pharaohs and to witness firsthand their riches and culture.   The exhibit was on loan from the British Museum and was open to the public from March 13th to June 12th, 2016.

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Have you had the opportunity to visit the Cleveland Museum of Art?  What was you favorite exhibit?  I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many Thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Cleveland Museum of Art
11150 East Boulevard
Cleveland, OH  44106
Telephone:  216 421 7350

  • Admission Fee:  Free for the permanent museum exhibits. Additional fees may apply for special exhibits and tickets can be purchased online, at the ticket center or by calling 216 421 7350.
  • Hours:  Open Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 10AM to 5PM; Open on Mondays and Wednesdays from 10AM to 9PM. Closed Mondays.  Closed on the following holidays:  New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. The museum will close at 4PM on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve.
  • Amenities:  On-site library and archives, restaurant, café, and museum store
  • Length of Visit:  At least 3 hours for the permanent exhibit
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Ensure that you have visited the museum’s website to confirm additional exhibits.

Where to Stay:

Glidden House at University Circle
1901 Ford Drive
Cleveland, OH  44106
Telephone:  216 231 8900

The Glidden House is a gorgeous boutique hotel built in 1910.  Located in a prestigious residential neighborhood of Cleveland, this extraordinary French Gothic offers impressive amenities and services.

Where to Eat:

Trentina Restaurant at Glidden House
1903 Ford Drive
Cleveland, OH  44106
Telephone:  216.421.2900

Trentina is the sixth restaurant of Jonathan Sawyer, a James Beard Award winning chef offering Northern Italian cuisine and wine.

Check out more of these phenomenal artifacts from the Cleveland Museum of Art’s exhibit Pharaoh: King of Ancient Egypt!  Enjoy!

What to Read: 

  • Await Your Reply by Dan Chaon
  • The Bluest Eye by Toni Morrison
  • Cherry by Nico Walker
  • The Coming of Fabrizze by Raymond DeCapite
  • Derelict Paradise, by Daniel Kerr
  • The End by Salvatore Scibona
  • A Ghetto Takes Shape: Black Cleveland, by Kenneth L. Kusmer
  • The Greatest Thing Since Sliced Bread, by Don Robertson
  • The Headmaster’s Papers, by Richard Hawley
  • The Silent Syndicate, by Hank Messick
  • The Sparrow, by Mary Doria Russell

Photo Guide for Cleveland:

  • Abbey Road Skyline
  • Brewnuts is not only a lovely donut shop, but its nostalgic art deco interior is perfect for unique photos
  • A Christmas Story House in nearby Tremont
  • Civic Center District to photograph Cleveland’s City Hall, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and FirstEnergy Football Field
  • The Cleveland Arcade is one of the most photographed location in Cleveland so arrive early (8 or 9) before the crowds arrive.
  • Cleveland MetroParks Zoo
  • Cleveland Murals in Ohio City (close by)
  • Cleveland’s Museum of Art for its phenomenal architecture and exhibits
  • Cleveland Public Library
  • Cleveland Signs
  • Coastal Taco has some of the best views of the river in the city of Cleveland.
  • The Cuyahoga Valley National Park in Brecksville is for nature lovers.
  • The Flying Fig is a yummy cafe where outdoor photos are a must.
  • East Fourth Street is where you will find cozy cafes lining brick walkways
  • The Fountain of Eternal Life honors local residents who served in the military (photograph during the day AND night)
  • Great Lakes Brewing Company
  • Heinen’s Grocery Store to photograph the rotunda overlooking the food court and check out the terrace for additional photos
  • Holden Arboretum in nearby Kirtland
  • Lakeview Cemetery
  • Hope Memorial Bridge is the best place for photographing a cityscape photo of Cleveland
  • Located at Playhouse Square, Yours Truly is a chic cafe with exposed brick and stylish furniture and the infamous GE Chandelier
  • Pour Cleveland is a lovely coffee shop with an artsy interior.
  • Q Arena
  • Rock and Roll Hall of Fame for its spectacular architecture and historical exhibits
  • Settler’s Landing Park is perfect for photographing several iconic locations in Cleveland.
  • Superior Viaduct Bridge
  • West Side Market is absolutely amazing for shooting food photos at each of the stalls, but a trip up to the second level by way of the corner staircase will provide a photo-worthy shot of the market from above.

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Figure of Squatting Baboon, about 1391 – 1353 BC

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Tiles from the Palace of Pharaoh Ramses III, about 1184 – 1153 BC

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Rosette inlays from the Palace of Pharaoh Ramses III, about 1184 – 1153 BC

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Statue of Government Official Sennefer, about 1479 – 1425 BC

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Scarab adorning a finger – ring, about 1648 – 1540 BC

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Great Harris Papyrus, about 1184 – 1153 BC

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Shabtis of the many Pharaohs over the years

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The Mayan Mystery of Tulum

4 August 201531 August 2024

Overlooking the gorgeous waters of the Caribbean Sea, I could hardly wait to revisit the Mayan archaeological site of Tulum.  Working for the cruise lines, I had the amazing opportunity to explore many of the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan and learn about their spectacular culture.

I had arrived by colectivo (the shuttle van) from Playa del Carmen (80 pesos round trip) which took just a little over 45 minutes one way. It was a wild ride and it took me back to the days of traveling this road in the 1990s.  We always joked about how fast the buses traveled along this long stretch of road.  Does Mexico have a speed limit?

Staying in Tulum, I was so happy to have arrived at the site, long before the cruise ship crowds.  With plenty of time to explore, I visited each of the Mayan structures and then spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the beach.

The Mayans were responsible for building several magnificent settlements throughout today’s countries of Guatemala, Honduras, Belize and El Salvador. While much is known about ancient Greek and Roman civilization, there is extensive evidence of the intellect of the Mayans as found in their construction, mathematics and astronomy.

Their temples and buildings include magnificent stairways, columns, terraces, decorative carving, arches and moldings. Research has shown that the Mayans used three symbols for use in counting with the dot representing the number one, a line for the number five and a decorative shell standing in as the number zero.  They also succeeded in developing the 365 day calendar known as the Haab based on the solar system.   Similar to the Egyptians, the Mayans used hieroglyphs to document historical events.

On the eastern coast of the Yucatan peninsula, Tulum was the most important archaeological site of the Maya.

Tulum has a special place in my heart as I had first toured this location in my early 20s.  I was amazed by the stunning architecture and history of the Mayan civilization as well as the location of this beautiful place.  I couldn’t help but stand in awe, feeling as though I had stepped back in time entering this magical place.

Tulum was one of several walled cities within the state of Quintana Roo. Most likely inhabited between the 13th and 15th centuries, it was an important port city for trading obsidian.  Beautifully built on a bluff that faces the Caribbean Sea, Tulum may have been known as  Zama, which means City of Dawn.  It is also believed that Tulum was an important site for the worship of the Descending (or Diving) god.

According to the document, Las Relaciones de Yucatan (the Accounts of Yucatan), the Spanish first encountered Zama during their 1518 expedition, conquering the site in 1544.  By the end of the 16th century, the site was completely abandoned.

In 1847, the War of the Castes saw an uprising of the Mayans against the government and landowner as Tulum became their refuge.  Following another revolt in 1871, Tulum was considered a shrine until 1916 when restorations of the site were led by Sylvanus Morley and George P. Howe.  By 1938, Mexican archaeologist Miguel Angel Fernandez  began his conservation and restoration work of the site.

Stretching nearly four miles along the coast are buildings, platforms and tombs within the Inner and Outer Precincts (The Great Wall).  The wall may have been built as a defense for the city but also separates the government and religious buildings.  With five narrow entrances, there may have also been watchtowers on the northwest and southwest corners.

The inner precinct may have been where the more important buildings would have created the city’s center. These structures would have included the Castillo (Castle), the Temple of the Descending God, and the Temple of the Initial Series with additional temples, shrines and platforms throughout.

One of the most important of these buildings was the Temple of the Frescoes which stands east of the main street. It is believed that this temple was used to track the movements of the sun. Integral to the society’s social and religious activities, the murals, frescoes, and sculptures gave the world an insight into Mayan culture.

Built over various stages, the temple’s first level was a simple ground level structure with a small altar on the opposite end of the entrance.  The original murals have been exquisitely preserved by the gallery built in its second stage.  These religious paintings illustrate the Mayan gods, entwined serpents and offerings, based on this Central American culture.

In its second stage, a chamber was added in addition to columns, capitals and pillars.  Stucco mask figures make up the frieze in addition to niches that may have held important relics.  Additional  paintings include one of the Descending god surrounded by figures with elaborate headdresses. The architrave displays red handprints, an unusual relief of men and snakes as well as two large masks of the gods, most likely that of Char and Itzamna, the giver of life.

To support the temple built on the next level, the third stage required reinforcements to sustain this religious place of worship.

Outside of the temple was displayed a stele engraved with text but the stone was so worn that it could not have been deciphered.

Second to the Temple of the Wind rising up from the coast of the Caribbean Sea, the Castillo also dominates the skyline of this archaeological site.  The tallest building in Tulum,  the Castle has evolved over many years to include a ginormous buttress, double gallery on a terrace and a mountain of stairs reaching a gorgeous temple on top.

Shrines, niches, porticos and serpent shapes were discovered deep in its interior as well as a figures, stucco masks and feather headdresses.

Tulum’s House of the Halach Uinik was the home of the supreme ruler of Tulum during the colonial period.  Standing on a platform, the entrance has four columns and towards the rear walkway, a roofed shrine.  Inside of the two vaulted tombs, archaeologists found fragments of incense burners. On the east side of the structure is a carving of the Descending god.

Iconic photos of Tulum show the Temple of the Wind against the background of the crystal blue Caribbean ocean.  This is what originally drew me to the archaeological site in the early 1990s.

With only a single room, the Mayans would gain entrance from the north.  Unlike the other structures, this temple stood on a round platform which was used in temples dedicated to the god of the wind, Ehecati throughout the Central Plateau.

It is estimated that there are sixty structures that have been labeled at Tulum.  Among them are:

  • the Temple of the Descending god, a well preserved site with murals, carvings depicting religious scenes and elaborate cornices;
  • House of the Chultun, a cistern that stored rainwater;
  • the Temple of the Initial Series, where a stele was found, now housed in the British Museum;
  • the House of the Columns, known as the Great Palace;
  • House of the Cenote, which stood over an ancient well

I could have spent a couple of days exploring this spectacular site where my fascination of the Mayan culture began but I had scheduled a dive at Akumal to revisit another one of my favorite activities in Quintana Roo.

Have you visited Tulum and did you find yourself drawn to the Mayan culture?  I would love to hear about your adventure if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my revisit to Tulum and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Archaeological Site of Tulum

  • Admission Fee: 65 pesos
  • Hours:  Open daily from 8AM to 5PM, last admission at 4PM
  • Length of Visit: 2 – 4 hours
  • Amenities:  Shopping center, store, ticketing window and restrooms
  • How to Get There: The colectivo from Playa del Carmen is located at Avenida 15 and Calle 2. The drivers will be holding signs and/or calling out the destination, so make sure you are listening or looking for “Tulum”.   You can access the shuttle schedule by visiting their website at ado.com.mx.  The shuttle will drop you off at ruins first where there will be a 10 minute walk from this location or you can take a little train for 20 pesos.  If you are driving from Playa del Carmen, take Highway 307 South.  If you are staying in Tulum, the trip is on 5 minutes away.
  • Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early as the ruins are crowded in the afternoon and is the hottest time of the day. Do not purchase tickets at stands along the entrance to Tulum as they may not be valid tickets.  Wait until you reach the entrance into the Mayan ruins. Wear comfortable shoes, bring lots of water and wear sunscreen and a hat.  There are no restaurants at the site, so if you are hungry, eat outside of the entrance.  Climbing the ruins and touching them is prohibited.  If you want to stay to enjoy the beach, make sure you bring a swimsuit and beach towel.

Where to Stay:

Gramercy Tulum
Av. Boca Paila Km 9.5,
Tulum Beach, Zona Costera, 77760 Tulum, Q.R.
Telephone:  +52 1 (984) 877 0483

  • Amenities:  Oceanfront, Restaurant and Bar, Free WIFI, Spa, pet friendly, room service

Where to Eat:

Hartwood
Carr. Tulum-Boca Paila 7-6Km,
Tulum Beach, 77780 Tulum, Q.R., Mexico
reservations@hartwoodtulum.com

One of the most sought out restaurants in Tulum, you must make reservations in advance for the months of June, July and August

What to Eat:

  • Cochinita Pibil is a suckling pig marinated in a sauce which includes sour orange juice, spices and ground achiote.  It is then wrapped in banana leaves and cooked overnight in an outdoor oven. Truly Authentic!!!
  • Pescado de la Veracruz– fish drowned in tomato sauce with green olives, onions, tomatoes, chiles and garlic.
  • Poc Chuc– pork marinated in sour orange juice which comes from a local fruit indigenous to the Yucatan.
  • Sopa de Lima– a type of chicken soup that is seasoned with limes.
  • Tikin – Xic– red snapper or grouper that is wrapped in banana leaves with sliced tomatoes, bell peppers, onions and drenched in a special sauce made with sour orange juice, oregano and spicy paste.
  • Ceviche – fish “cooked” using fruit juices such as lemon or lime

What to Read:

  • A Tourist in the Yucatan, by James McNay Brumfield

Photo Guide for Tulum:

  • Tulum Ruins and Playa Tortuga
  • Cenote Suytun – For the best photo, visit late morning and early evening to catch the sun’s beams shining directly on the circular platform
  • Cenote Zacil-Ha – amazing platform and open air
  • Cenote Car Wash – swinging ropes and bridges
  • Grand Cenote with this spectacular boardwalks
  • Kaan Luum Lagoon – arrive early for uninterrupted photos
  • Crooked Palm Trees at Hotel El Pariso and Amansala Resort Hotel
  • Casa Cenote between Playa del Carmen and Tulum
  • Sculptures at Ven a Luz at Ahau Tulum Beach
  • Muyil Mayan Ruins
  • Matcha Mama and their swings
  • Follow That Dream sign, located near the Lolita & Lolita Boutique
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About Me!

I have had a passion to travel for as long as I can remember and landed my dream job at the age of 19 on a cruise ship. The Suite Life of Travel is about those experiences as well as my future endeavor to explore this amazing world!

Categories

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