St. Thomas, Virgin Islands, Downtown Walking Tour

19 March 20184 January 2025

At dawn, I caught my first glimpse of the beautiful island of St. Thomas with its sailboats and yachts in the harbor. A softness settled over the tranquil Caribbean Sea as the cruise ship approached the dock. The morning chill would soon be replaced by the heat of the sun rewarding us with another tropical day in paradise. Nestled in the cove of Charlotte Amalie, the ship had soon docked at Havensight, only a mile’s walk east of town.

Soon after the ship was tied up and the gangway set out on the dock, I grabbed my belongings and set off towards the village of Charlotte Amalie. The large shopping plaza, located between Post Office and Market squares, offers duty-free liquor, European imports and souvenirs for passengers and crew. Convenient for passengers who prefer to remain close to the harbor, I prefer to shop in town where prices are discounted at a higher rate.

After passing the market at the port, the start of my walk was hardly picturesque with older, industrial buildings lining the roadway. Yet within minutes, approaching Yacht Haven Grande, I explored several upscale shops and restaurants. Luxury cabin cruisers were docked along this popular plaza, ten minutes from the center of town.

The wooden boardwalk soon evolved into a concrete stretch of walkway passing the picturesque cove. With extraordinary views of the nearby islands, sailboats and working boats anchored nearby. One of sixty-eight islands that comprise the US Virgin Islands, St. Thomas is the largest of the four islands that are inhabited.

The sun burned off the last of the morning fog and the view stretched out for miles. A cool breeze masked the 95 degree heat as the walkway narrowed and curved towards the oceanfront village of Charlotte Amalie.

Before the US Virgin Islands were sold to the US, the islands were settled by the Danes in the 17^th century. The final stretch of my walk into town was the Legislature Building on the left and the Virgin Islands Museum. The beautiful museum, originally the 17^th century Fort Christian, is the island’s oldest building in continuous use. Converted into a jail, a church town hall, courthouse and governor’s residence, this museum displays the history of St. Thomas from the Stone Age to present.

Approaching the charming center of Charlotte Amalie, I immediately noticed the second story restaurant, Bumpa’s, with a spectacular view of the cove. Ordering a drink, I found the perfect 2-seater table to take in the picturesque view and map out my tour of the town. The cobalt waters and small boats bobbing along the bay tempted me to stay for the view, but I was excited to explore and learn more about the island’s history.

Stepping out of the restaurant, I found Dronningens Gade (Main Street) where numerous shops stood along the alleyway. Store attendants were standing outside offering discounted rates on jewelry and promised the best deals on the island.

After losing my way for a few minutes, I eventually reached a set of stairs that led me to Hotel 1829. Built as a residence for a French Sea Captain, this former home is now a hotel. Walking towards the entrance, I learned that there was a wedding taking place inside and it was closed for the private event.

Directional signs pointed me towards the scenic attractions I had planned to visit. Looking out into the ocean, I noticed a small clearing in the trees that framed the port of St. Thomas and its beautiful harbor. A set of steps, known as the 99 Steps, continued up the hill. Similar to the stairs I had seen in San Juan, these were also made from the stone ballasts once used to balance the load of old sailing ships.

The island is rich with pirate history so I was excited to visit Blackbeard’s Castle. Originally built by the Danes in 1679, the property, which is now a hotel, was a supposed location where Blackbeard would hang out on occasion.

The Skytsborg Tower sits on five acres, referred to as “The Williamsburg of the Caribbean”. Built in the 17th century this amazing stone structure by the Danes, offers a spectacular view of the harbor.

Making my descent back into town, I stopped to admire “The Three Rebel Queens of the Virgin Islands Fountain”. Unveiled in 2005, this beautiful monument created by Richard Hallier, commemorates the Fireburn Revolt. The Labor Riot, led by Queen Mary, Queen Agnes and Queen Mathilda, started out as a peaceful protest on the island of St. Croix due to small wages and difficult work conditions. Rumors began to circulate within the group that a laborer had been killed in police custody which led to the rioters looting the town and setting fire to the buildings and plantations. The three women were imprisoned as a result of the destruction and are represented in the sculpture carrying a lantern, torch and harvesting tool.

Continuing down the walkway towards town was the Crown House, a vibrant yellow colorful house with purple shutters came into view. This beautiful structure was built in the mid 1800s as the home of the island’s governor, Peter von Scholten. Designed in the style of West Indian architecture, it is currently a private residence.

In the heat of the day, the stroll back to the ship brought me to the Yacht Haven Grande once again. I took a seat on the patio at The Fat Turtle, facing the yachts and enjoyed a drink before checking out Paradise Point.

I decided to ride the cable car to the top of Paradise Point to have a couple of drinks and enjoy the view of the harbor. Although I had the option to take a taxi to the top, I paid the $21 for the St. Thomas Skyride. Boarding the gondola, the weather was just as perfect as the view. I could see the cruise ships and yachts docked in their assigned slips and all of the anchored boats and sailboats dotting the harbor. There were islands as far as the eye could see.

At Paradise Point, there was a shop that sold treasures from a sunken ship that was recently discovered. I had an interesting conversation with one of the divers and checked out the artifacts. I was hoping to take the 1/4-mile trail for views of St. Croix, but the trail was closed due to the previous week’s weather. Instead, I took a seat at Bailey’s Bushwacker overlooking the harbor and placed my order for the local Bushwacker and Key Lime drink. The Bushwacker is made up of 1 oz of the following: Pusser’s Rum (suggested), Vodka, Kahlua, Bailey’s Irish Cream, Amaretto, Frangelico and Crème de Cacao. That’s a lot of alcohol in this tiny, but yummy drink topped with whipped cream and a cherry on top, After a couple of Bushwackers, it was time to call it a day.

Do you have a favorite Caribbean port? I would love to hear about your preferred island and what activities or attractions you prefer. Just leave a comment below! Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Blackbeard’s Castle aka Skytsborg Tower:
Lille Taarne Gade
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands
Telephone: 340 776 1234

If you would like to check out the attractions in Charlotte Amalie, download the Self Guided Downtown Historic Tour and Charlotte Amalie Map from www.virginislandsthisweek.com.

September 6, 2017 Update: This site is CLOSED due to the destruction of Hurricane Irma. A re-opening date is not available at this time.

Villa Notman in Kongens Quarter: next door to Blackbeard’s Castle

September 6, 2017 Update: This site is CLOSED at due to the destruction of Hurricane Irma. A re-opening date is not available at this time.

St. Thomas Skyride:
9617 Estate Thomas
St. Thomas, VI 00802
Phone: 340 774 9809

Admission Fee: $21 for Adults, $10.50 for children 12 and under; children under the age of 5 are FREE.
Hours: Open Monday from 9AM to 4PM, on Tuesday from 9AM to 5PM and on Wednesdays from 9AM to 9PM. Hours may vary depending on when ships are docked in the port of St. Thomas.
Amenities: Restaurant, Tram, Shopping Deck, Sundeck, Dining Room, Patio, Harbor Terrace, The Nest, a reception room for events.
Scenic View: Breathtaking views of St. Thomas’ Harbor from Paradise Point
Length of Visit: 1 to 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: You can also drive or hail a taxi to the top of Paradise Point.

Where to Stay:

Margaritaville Vacation Club by Wyndham – St. Thomas
6080 Estate Smith Bay
St. Thomas, 00802, US Virgin Islands
Telephone: 340 775 8300

Where to Eat:

Bumpa’s
38-A Waterfront Hwy
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands

The Fat Turtle is now permanently closed
Yacht Haven Grande
St. Thomas, USVI 00802
Phone: 340 714 3566

What to Eat:

Bull Foot Soup – also known as cow heel soup, it is made from the heel of a cow, vegetables and local spices
Conch
Fungi – Polenta made from ground cornmeal, Caribbean-style
Johnny Cakes – snack made from flour, butter and sugar
Kallaloo Soup – similar to gumbo, this soup is made from fish, greens, onion, okra and local spices
Lobster
Pate – similar to empanadas; dough filled with chicken, fish or beef
Roti – flatbread wraps filled with meat or vegetables

What to Read:

Caribbean: A Novel, by James Michener
Right Place, Wrong Time by Judith Arnold
Land of Love and Drowning: a novel, by Tiphanie Yanique

Photo Guide for St. Thomas

St. Thomas Ride Paradise for spectacular views of Charlotte Amalie
Megan’s Bay for pristine beaches
99 steps
Government House
Coki Beach for corals and amazing underwater life
Secret Harbour for squid, turtles and barracuda
Drake’s Bench for panoramic views
Brewer’s Beach Bay for viewing airplanes
Blackbeard’s Castle

The St. Thomas Harbor

The Yachts in St. Thomas

A View of the Ship from Town

The Islands Surrounding St. Thomas

Panoramic View of Charlotte Amalie and the St. Thomas Harbor

The exciting view of St. Thomas from Paradise Point

The cable cars on the St. Thomas Skyview Ride

The Carnival Liberty as seen from Paradise Point

The Port of St. Thomas

Drinks at Bumpa’s

Pharaoh Exhibit at the Cleveland Museum of Art

8 September 201616 September 2024

The Cleveland Museum of Art is known for its impressive impressionist collection and is one of the most visited in the world. I had always wanted to visit and when I learned about an additional exhibit based on an Egyptian collection, I was ready to make the two-drive to explore both exhibitions.

Entering the museum, I was overwhelmed with excitement to view the new exhibit: Pharaoh, King of Ancient Egypt. For months, I had been eager to explore this amazing showcase with over 200 ancient artifacts on loan from the British Museum. This exhibit provided an in-depth insight into the life, customs and culture of the Egyptian Pharaohs who ruled from 3000 BC to 30 BC.

The ancient Egyptians worshiped hundreds of gods and goddesses. The pharaoh was not only the ruler of the Egyptian kingdom but a religious figure as well. According to their beliefs, the pharaoh, an earthly representation of the god Horus, took human form to keep order within the kingdom of Egypt and to protect its citizens. Through various rituals, the pharaoh would attempt to please the gods in hopes to grow abundant crops and defeat their enemies. This was displayed by the 5-foot statue of Seti II seated on his throne while making an offering to the god, Amun, symbolized by a ram’s head on the shrine that Seti is holding. At the base of the statue is the carved name of Seti II, known in Egypt as a cartouche.

Once the pharaoh died, the Egyptians believed that he (or she) would be transformed as the god Osiris, the ruler of the underworld. Within his tomb, offerings of bread, wine and carved figures were given as gifts to the gods. The goddess Sekhmet was considered the “daughter of Ra”, a very powerful god, associated with the sun. She could also transform herself into the uraeus, the rearing cobra, displayed on the crown of the pharaohs.

One exhibit showed the Head of Pharaoh Mentuhotep II, a perfect example of the uraeus. His white crown symbolized the rule of the land of Upper Egypt while a red crown represented the rule of Lower Egypt. When the kingdoms were combined, the crown included both symbols of Upper and Lower Egypt.

In addition to statues, figures were also carved into the lintels of Egypt’s extravagant temples. The new pharaoh would leave his mark by building his own temple where the writing on the lintel would reference his rule. The lintel of Amenemhat III is a fine example of what would have been built in the time period of 1859 BC to 1814 BC.

During the Ptolemaic Period, when Greeks ruled Egypt, the tradition of building temples in the Egyptian style continued. According to the exhibit placard, it reads, “Pharaoh Ptolemy I presents grass and a papyrus plant to Hathor, goddess of fertility and joy. These plants symbolized Upper and Lower Egypt; together they represented the unification of the Two Lands.”

Smaller figurines of the pharaoh and the gods were also carved out of stone or wood while some were sculpted out of bronze. The jackal head is thought to have represented the god Horus in southern Egypt while the falcon may have been associated with the Horus of Pe in northern Egypt.

The colorful stela (writing on stone) of Pharaoh Tuthosis IV showed his offering a gift of papyrus and lotus flowers to Amun-Ra and the deified queen Ahmose-Nefertari, who was the wife of Pharaoh Ahmose. It is believed to have been created somewhere between 1279 BC – 1203 BC by Kha, the man who is carved into the bottom with his arms raised.

One of my favorite items in the exhibit was the Coffin Case of Bakenmut. I was taken by surprise at the beautiful artwork displayed both inside and out. Although not the sarcophagus of a pharaoh, it was the resting place of a member of the clergy of Amun at Thebes, a very rich man. It is estimated that it was built between 950 BC – 900 BC and made out of sycamore wood.

On the interior, there are images of two deified kings, Amenhotep I and Tuthmosis III from Dynasty 18. It is believed that Bakenmut desired to have an association with these kings in the afterlife.

I also enjoyed the wing of the exhibit that documented the lives of the royal family. Various everyday items displayed included jewelry as well as tiles and reliefs that decorated their opulent living spaces. One of my favorite pieces was the scarab beetle that dated back between 1391 BC to 1353 BC. The scarab symbolized immortality, resurrection, transformation and protection and most used to decorate tombs.

One of the most fascinating artifacts in the collection was the papyrus that dated back to 2454 BC – 2311 BC. This document revealed the administrative functions and economic procedures of that time period. For example, lists of offerings, calendars, accounts and inventory have been found by archaeologists and researchers.

When the pharaoh died elaborate tombs were designed to assist him with his passing and provided him with the items he would need in the afterlife. For example, many valuable objects would be buried with the pharaoh such as furniture, food and jewels. One of the most interesting objects was the shabti, a funerary figurine that was said to act as a servant for the deceased, carrying out manual labor after the pharaoh’s death. The turquoise Shabti of Seti I was said to have been carved from 1294 to 1279 BC.

Inside of the tomb, reliefs were painted to show images of the pharaoh in the afterlife. Seti I was the father of Ramses II and his tomb was considered the longest and deepest of all tombs discovered in the Valley of the Kings in Thebes. The fragment from his tomb has retained its original color and was part of the doorway .

The pharaoh lived a life of luxury not only on earth, but beyond his death. Valuable artifacts that were once the property of the pharaohs show the extravagant lifestyle for which they were accustomed. While many of us believe “you can’t take it with you”, the Egyptians would vehemently disagree.

The Pharaohs exhibit at The Cleveland Museum of Art was an insightful opportunity to explore the lives of the Egyptian pharaohs and to witness firsthand their riches and culture. The exhibit was on loan from the British Museum and was open to the public from March 13^th to June 12^th, 2016.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Cleveland Museum of Art? What was you favorite exhibit? I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Cleveland Museum of Art
11150 East Boulevard
Cleveland, OH 44106
Telephone: 216 421 7350

Admission Fee: Free for the permanent museum exhibits. Additional fees may apply for special exhibits and tickets can be purchased online, at the ticket center or by calling 216 421 7350.
Hours: Open Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 10AM to 5PM; Open on Mondays and Wednesdays from 10AM to 9PM. Closed Mondays. Closed on the following holidays: New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. The museum will close at 4PM on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve.
Amenities: On-site library and archives, restaurant, café, and museum store
Length of Visit: At least 3 hours for the permanent exhibit
Tips for Your Visit: Ensure that you have visited the museum’s website to confirm additional exhibits.

Where to Stay:

Glidden House at University Circle
1901 Ford Drive
Cleveland, OH 44106
Telephone: 216 231 8900

The Glidden House is a gorgeous boutique hotel built in 1910. Located in a prestigious residential neighborhood of Cleveland, this extraordinary French Gothic offers impressive amenities and services.

Where to Eat:

Trentina Restaurant at Glidden House
1903 Ford Drive
Cleveland, OH 44106
Telephone: 216.421.2900

Trentina is the sixth restaurant of Jonathan Sawyer, a James Beard Award winning chef offering Northern Italian cuisine and wine.

Check out more of these phenomenal artifacts from the Cleveland Museum of Art’s exhibit Pharaoh: King of Ancient Egypt! Enjoy!

What to Read:

Await Your Reply by Dan Chaon
The Bluest Eye by Toni Morrison
Cherry by Nico Walker
The Coming of Fabrizze by Raymond DeCapite
Derelict Paradise, by Daniel Kerr
The End by Salvatore Scibona
A Ghetto Takes Shape: Black Cleveland, by Kenneth L. Kusmer
The Greatest Thing Since Sliced Bread, by Don Robertson
The Headmaster’s Papers, by Richard Hawley
The Silent Syndicate, by Hank Messick
The Sparrow, by Mary Doria Russell

Photo Guide for Cleveland:

Abbey Road Skyline
Brewnuts is not only a lovely donut shop, but its nostalgic art deco interior is perfect for unique photos
A Christmas Story House in nearby Tremont
Civic Center District to photograph Cleveland’s City Hall, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and FirstEnergy Football Field
The Cleveland Arcade is one of the most photographed location in Cleveland so arrive early (8 or 9) before the crowds arrive.
Cleveland MetroParks Zoo
Cleveland Murals in Ohio City (close by)
Cleveland’s Museum of Art for its phenomenal architecture and exhibits
Cleveland Public Library
Cleveland Signs
Coastal Taco has some of the best views of the river in the city of Cleveland.
The Cuyahoga Valley National Park in Brecksville is for nature lovers.
The Flying Fig is a yummy cafe where outdoor photos are a must.
East Fourth Street is where you will find cozy cafes lining brick walkways
The Fountain of Eternal Life honors local residents who served in the military (photograph during the day AND night)
Great Lakes Brewing Company
Heinen’s Grocery Store to photograph the rotunda overlooking the food court and check out the terrace for additional photos
Holden Arboretum in nearby Kirtland
Lakeview Cemetery
Hope Memorial Bridge is the best place for photographing a cityscape photo of Cleveland
Located at Playhouse Square, Yours Truly is a chic cafe with exposed brick and stylish furniture and the infamous GE Chandelier
Pour Cleveland is a lovely coffee shop with an artsy interior.
Q Arena
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame for its spectacular architecture and historical exhibits
Settler’s Landing Park is perfect for photographing several iconic locations in Cleveland.
Superior Viaduct Bridge
West Side Market is absolutely amazing for shooting food photos at each of the stalls, but a trip up to the second level by way of the corner staircase will provide a photo-worthy shot of the market from above.