The Baths of Miletus

19 September 202317 March 2025

Approaching the archaeological site of Miletus, it is obvious that there is a large influence of Roman architecture and tradition that once made an impact on this city. One of the more important customs was that of public bathing.

In the city of Miletus there were three bathing areas: the Capito Thermae, Humei Tope Thermae (in the north) and the Faustina Thermae operating in the south. During the First Century BC, Cnaeus Vergilius Capito donated the resources for a large building complex which would contain an exercise area and baths. An inscription located on the northern section of the Ionic Stoa, confirms his donation. Because baths were more of a social activity among the Romans, this compound was perfectly situated between the Delphinion and the Hellenistic Gymnasium. In the Palaestra, the exercise area, was a swimming pool. There were three sections to the baths (Thermae) which were the dressing rooms, the warm bath and the hot bath.

The Delphinion was built near the Harbour of Lions as a sanctuary of Apollo Delphinios who was the patron saint of sailors and ships. It was first constructed in the 6^th century BC, and went through several updates before it was destroyed in the 5^th century AD. The ruins clearly show the remains of a circular temple which was once protected by a roof and sheltered the altar where the residents brought their offerings. There were inscriptions found on the inner walls of the stoa and on the stelae indicating that this location was also once the city’s archive.

Many of the ancient ruins were not without a Nymphaem, which was one of the most important features of the city. This fountain was considered to be one of the most impressive of all of the Ionian cities. A three story structure with a façade that displayed Corinthian columns, it is said to have looked much like the façade of the Library of Celsius in Ephesus. You can find the Nymphaem on the western part of the city between the northern Capito Thermae and the southern North Agora and the Gymnasium of Eudemus. The structure also contained niches and pedestals on which statues would be displayed. The statues represented gods and demi-gods and it was estimated that there was a total of 27 throughout the building.

The South Gymnasium also known as the Gymnasium of Eudemis, was built on a north to south axis on the southern part of the city. On the esatern side of the Sacred way leading to the sanctuary of Didymia is an Ionic Stoa. It was quite long with seven steps leading up to the 36 columns supporting a beautifully decorated frieze. The original structure was built during the Flavian dynasty and further alterations were completed during the time of the Emperor Trajan.

Within close proximity to the theater were the Faustina Baths, which were built in the second century AD under the direction of Marcus Aurelius’ wife. These were the dressing rooms for the baths. At its height, the baths were an extensive complex with large fountains in various shapes such as the river god Meander, a small lion and other statues of the gods.

The building was a single story structure which included hot and cold baths, an area for physical exercizes and exquisite sculpture decoration. There were 13 rooms on each side which acted as changing rooms for the visitors. There were also beds provided in these rooms for the visitors in the event that they would want to rest.

While visiting Miletus, it is a bit difficult to imagine that this city was once a port town, situated on a peninsula, with three harbors on the west and one on the east. The harbors have since silted up to the point that the site now sits 5 miles inland. Today it is a popular shore excursion from the cruise lines that port in Kusadasi and is well worth the visit if you have an interest in ancient ruins, history and religion.

Have you had the pleasure of visiting Miletus? What aspects of the ancient city did you find fascinating? I would love to hear about your travel experience if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for escaping away with me to Miletus and I hope you have many Happy Travels in your near future!

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus

Ephesus, Turkey and the Library of Celsius

22 August 202323 September 2024

The sun shone so warmly on my face as the ship approached the cruise port of Kusadasi. The early brilliance casted shadows upon the hills that dominate the horizon while the dimness crowded out the sight of the fort that lie ahead. Kusadasi is the perfect starting point for visiting some of the most famous historical cities of Turkey. From here I will be taking a shore excursion into Ephesus, where I will have the opportunity to explore a stop on Paul’s journey to spread the gospel of Christianity. So excited to be walking in his footsteps.

The Ephesians believed that Ephesia, the beautiful Amazonian queen, founded their city. The Amazons were considered descendants of the god of war, and thought to have been ferocious warriors. The temple of Hadrian tells of a second theory which credits Androklos as its founder and yet a third ideal states that the inhabitants of nearby Halikarnassus (today’s Bodrum) should be honored as the city’s organizers.

It was a quick bus ride and we arrived at the archaeological site, quickly making our way to the start of our early morning. There are two entrances leading into Ephesus; one is the Harbor Gate, and the other is the Magnesian Gate, which is where most guides begin their tours. The field of ruins that lay ahead of us is made of various fragments and cylindrical features. From where we were standing, we could see the Baths of the State Agora to the right which is an extension of the Agora, or shopping plaza, to the left.

The archaeological finds on this site date back to the 14th and 15th century BC. Only 4 – 5 % of the site has been excavated. Some of these items are housed in the Museum of Ephesus.

The Agora was one of the most important public meeting places during the Roman Empire. It was an open area that combined the civic center, administrative buildings and local market. There is a marble road that leads into the Agora from the entrance from where we are standing. The beautifully restored walkway brought us close to the architecture of the baths and we could closely see the various stone and archways created in this once thriving port town.

According to our tour guide, visitors and residents entering Ephesus by land would have first encountered the Agora. The primary boardwalk known as the Stoa Basileios (The Royal Walk) passed through the city’s most important structures and attractions. This road also provided access to the town’s odeon, which is similar to the theaters and music halls of today.

Passing the Agora we came upon the small town hall which was the office of the local government dignitary. Known as the Prytaneion, it was also used to host banquets for honored guests. In the center of the hall, researchers believed that there was an altar dedicated to the goddess, Hestia. Within proximity to the Prytaneion were additional statues that represented Artemis and were uncovered during the excavation of this well-preserved archaeological site.

Further off into the distance from the Prytaneion are the remains of the Roman Emperor’s Temple of Domitian. This is a two story building where displayed on the second level are the caryatids. These statues were considered a representation of the barbarian peoples that Rome had once conquered during the height of its Empire. I love the detail of these statues and find them to be some of the most well preserved artifacts along our walking tour.

We began making our descent towards a line of columns that represented Curates (Kouretes) Street, which runs between the Library of Celsius and Domitian Street. . We approached the Temple of Hadrian to our right and immediately noticed the empty pedestals that stood in front of the temple. Those men that could afford to have their busts made could also exhibit them in this area to be recognized, in a way to flatter themselves. Hadrian’s Temple was so exquisite that I wondered how it must have appeared in the height of Ephesus’ civilization.

Strolling down Curates Street, we came upon the Hercules (Heracles-Greek) Gate, which separates the uptown from the downtown area of Ephesus. It is a fascinating representation of the local god, Hercules who signified masculinity and strength. Many believed that this triumphal arch was built in the 2^nd century AD but was relocated here two centuries later.

The Fountain of Trajan (Trainus) is also located on Curates Street and is one of my favorite structures in Ephesus. What draws me to this building is the intricate artwork of its sculpted pillars as well as the fountain that once held a statue of the Emperor Trajan.

Across the street from the fountain are some of the most lavish homes of the elite Ephesians. The astounding floor tiles remain intact and display the wealth of the families that once lived here. Directly behind these Terrace Homes is a covered area where artifacts and additional research is being conducted. There is an additional charge to visit this small museum where audio recordings escort visitors through amazing frescoes, mosaics, and fountains that rival those of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The tour of Ephesus is not without its elements of surprise. We arrived at a small area where slabs of marble line up against the wall and learned that they were used as public latrines. There are about forty seats, sitting side-by-side. Our guide explained that the public restrooms were important for conducting business between the men.
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The long awaited moment arrived as the Library of Celsus appeared in the distance. A grand structure rising from the ruins, this large two-story structure towered over us as we approached its stairway. The preservation of the library is extraordinary and the details of this building that has been so elegantly preserved.

The glorious marble columns framed the four statues of the library’s façade. Each figure represented the human characteristics of wisdom, excellence, judgment and expertise. It was customary that families of financial means and power would establish monuments or heroons to honor their loved ones. The Library of Celsus was a dedication to Julius Celsus Polemeanus by his son, erected in the early 2^nd century AD.

Inside of the Library of Celsus, we were met with a surprisingly simple structure that contrasted the splendid façade of the building’s exterior. In the ancient world, it was one of the largest libraries housing upwards to 15,000 scrolls. Along the inner walls were recesses that contained rolled manuscripts. This is also the burial place of Celsus, whose vault is located below the ground floor on the north side of the building.

I love the history of large cities such as Ephesus, especially those stories that involve scandal and intrigue. Our tour guide shows us an unassuming tunnel which was, according to legend, a secret passageway. It was said that the men of Ephesus would tell their wives that they were going to the library when in fact they would escape into the local brothel. There is some debate to this theory as the attitude towards sexuality was quite open during this time, but it still makes for a great story.

There were three arches that led out towards the Agora and Grand Theater of Ephesus called the Gates of Mazaeus and Mitridades, named after the slaves that built them. With their prominent Roman style architecture, the gates were built as a dedication to Emperor Augustus. Statues of his family could be seen towering above the arches on the attica, while a relief of the Hecate, the god of crossroads was prominent on the outer walls of the structure. Some sources refer to an inscription that was written on the gates which curses “those that piss here”. I wonder how well that deterred the locals.

Standing in the archway of the gate, I looked out into the Agora where shops once lined the courtyard and stalls were set up in the infield. I imagined the bustling square with the smell of food, domestic animals and sweating bodies crowding into the shopping plaza to make their purchases. This was once one of the most important trading centers in all of Ephesus.

Located just off of the Agora is The Great Theater. At the height of Ephesus’ prosperity, it was one of the largest theaters in the Roman-Greco world.

Following the death of Jesus, His apostles left Jerusalem to spread Christianity to the world. St. John arrived in Ephesus with Mary, the mother of Jesus, somewhere between 37 to 48 AD. John is credited for establishing the first Christian community here. John would later be exiled to Patmos, spending his remaining years on the Greek island.

St. Paul put Ephesus on the map when he arrived around 54 AD, staying for nearly three and a half years and wrote his letters here, including a letter to the Ephesian Christians. Ephesus was also included in his missionary tour and the story of his visit is detailed in the Bible, making it a stop for Christian pilgrimages as well.

Today it is one of the most visited by Christians around the world.

Viewing the theater from below is astounding, but I knew that if I climbed to the top, I would have an extraordinary view of the former harbor and surrounding area. Climbing up the rows of seats, I waited until I reached the top before turning around. Here I was rewarded with a dramatic, overwhelming view of the theater, hills and Harbor Street leading away from the city.

Through all of its splendor, I still find it somewhat difficult to imagine this lively, prosperous city of Ephesus regardless of its extraordinary restoration. This site holds not only historical significance, but biblical and archaeological importance as well. Researchers continue to excavate the city of Ephesus which provides a doorway into the lives of those that once lived here. I look forward to the time when I can return and learn what interesting facts they uncover.

Are you a fan of archaeological sites? What draws you to them? I would love to hear which historical locations you find interesting and inspiring if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks for reading about my fascinating journey to Ephesus and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ephesus Archaeological Site
Ataturk Mh
Ugur Mumcu Sevgi Yolu
35920 Selcuk/Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 444 MUZE (6893)

Admission Fee: 60 Turkish Lira; children 12 and under is free of charge.
Hours: The museum is open April – October from 8AM to 7PM, and November 1 – April 15 from 8AM to 5PM
Amenities: Pre-purchase of ticket online, The Terrace Homes (additional cost)
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the Celsus Library and scenes of the surrounding are are spectacular from the arena
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as there is limited cover from the sun. One can purchase tickets ahead of time. Private tours can also be purchased at the door. Wear comfortable shoes for walking. You will notice several cats that live at the site.

Where to Stay:

Livia Hotel Ephesus
Ataturk Mah. 1045 Sok. No. 25
Izmir, 39520, Selcuk, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 892 92 99

Where to Eat:

Artemis Restaurant
Sirince Mahallesi, Sehit Yuksel
Ozulku Caddesi No. 7
35920, Sirince, Selcuk, Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 898 32 40

I absolutely love the property surrounding the restaurant, near olive groves and vineyards. The 19th century stone building was once a village school

What to Eat:

- Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
- Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
- Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
- Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
- Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
- Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
- Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
- Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
- Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
- Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

The Ephesus Scroll by Ben Chenoweth
Burning of the Books at Ephesus by Sir James Thornhill
Ancient Ephesus: The History and Legacy of One of Antiquity’s Greatest Cities by Charles River Editors

Photo Guide for Ancient Ephesus:

The Facade of the Celsus Library
View from the Amphitheater

Another view of the Grand Theater and Harbor Street, Ephesus

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

A Turkish Carpet Demonstration

15 August 202323 September 2024

The mountains surrounded us as the road twisted and turned towards our destination to Turkmen Carpet Weaving Center. The weather was perfect as the sun shone down on our tour bus having just spent the afternoon in Ancient Ephesus.

Entering the center, there were magnificent Turkish carpets on display. Ranging from cotton to silk, the colors were absolutely vibrant and more spectacular than I could have ever imagined. We spent the day learning the art of carpet-making and had the opportunity to purchase one of their priceless floor coverings or specialty wall hangings.

I was mesmerized by the blue-colored threads that took on the deep blue hue of the ocean. This specific color stood out against the multi-colored backdrop of a myriad of royal colors. From runners to large area floor and wall carpets, there was a wide range of options, sizes and materials ranging from $500 to $50,000. While some of the carpets were created from camel or goat hair, it was the silk rugs that were the most popular and lucrative, bringing in thousands of dollars.

The artistic creativity of designing Turkish silk carpets begins with the silkworms themselves. The cocoon, which has been woven with serecin, is moistened with the use of hot water until it is time to remove the silk layer of the outer shell. The small tiny egg covering protects the worm inside. Holding it in my hand, it was lightweight and hollow. Shaking the egg, I could hear the worm inside.

Once the eggs have been moistened, the threads are ready to be “reeled” to create one strong strand.

Several “strings” are then combined into one thread and then transferred to a spool. From this stage, it will be dyed and ready for the weaving process.

Turkmen Carpet Weaving Center offers village weavers the ability to continue their family tradition of creating gorgeous designer carpets that have been passed down for many generations. Several looms were available and depending on the size of the rugs, it can take months before these masterpieces are complete.

Having concluded our educational lesson in carpet making, we were offered refreshments as carpets were being prepared for demonstration. We had the choice of red or white wine, raki (similar to ouzo) or apple tea. The apple tea (so yummy!), which is popular among the Turks, is a warm cider drink which was very refreshing.

We took our seats at the benches surrounding the room. Once everyone had received their drink, an entertaining “dance” of sorts was performed as carpets were rolled out for our consideration. It was overwhelming with so many shapes, sizes, colors and materials yet the show was a sight to remember.

One of my favorite rugs was a light blue with hues of light brown and off-white accents. Unfortunately, I knew it would not fit into my small living room, but I was still curious to learn the price for this amazing piece of artwork. I was even more amazed when I learned that the price tag was a staggering $14,000!

I realize that these spectacular rugs are probably worth every penny spent on them and will last for years, but I was not financially prepared to make the investment. I had such a great time watching my fellow travelers make their purchases.

Do you own a Turkish carpet? Have you ever been curious to learn how they are made? I would love to hear about your visit to Turkey and some of the items that you may have purchased if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading my post about my experience with Turkish carpets and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Turkmen Carpets
Telephone: 0232 893 12 12

Admission Fee: There is no admission fee and tour groups are provided with admission free of charge as well.
Hours: The carpet center is open every day from 9AM to 5PM
Amenities: They provide a carpet making demonstration from the time they prepare the silk to the finished product. In addition, they provide a complimentary drink which includes, red or white wine, raki (similar to ouzo) and apple tea.
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price as this is customary and do not be afraid to let them know you are not interested because they do not want to pressure those not interested in buying. Expect to spend money here should you decide to buy a carpet, but they are superior in quality.

Where to Stay;

DoubleTree by Hilton Kusadasi
Ataturk Bulvan
Yat Limani Karsisi
09400 Kusadasi, Turkey
Telephone: +90 256 633 60 60
Website:

Where to Eat:

Erzincan Restaurant
Camikebir mah
Yedi Eylul Sok, No. 09
Kusadasi, 09430 Aydin
Telephone: +90 538 2300230

I enjoyed the seabass served with chips, baked potato and salad.

What to Eat:

- Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
- Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
- Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
- Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
- Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
- Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
- Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
- Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
- Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
- Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

The Ephesus Scroll by Ben Chenoweth
Burning of the Books at Ephesus by Sir James Thornhill
Ancient Ephesus: The History and Legacy of One of Antiquity’s Greatest Cities by Charles River Editors

Photo Guide for Ancient Ephesus:

The Facade of the Celsus Library
View from the Amphitheater