The Nightlife in Key West

27 October 201919 September 2024

Key West was a stop on our cruise ship itinerary while working for the cruise lines. With a day off, we would stroll through Duval Street ending with our last few moments watching the sunset over Mallory Square. Unfortunately, the ship would leave before the nightlife began and I had always wondered if it was as fun as I had always imagined.

For a long weekend, I packed my bags with a couple of my favorite bar-hopping friends to check out the night scene, starting at the infamous Irish Kevin’s. With the motto, “I came, I drank, I don’t remember”, the southernmost Irish bar is a favorite among visitors to the Conch Republic.

Music was a big part of Kevin’s life as his father was an American Folk musician. His only dream was to entertain and today he is living his dream. Offering live music all day, there is a schedule of entertainers that perform, each with their unique talent. The place is packed by nightfall and well into the time the place closes each night. With fun singalongs and funny jokes, Irish Kevin’s keep Key West tourists entertained.

A visit to Key West wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Sloppy Joe’s and it is one of my favorite places, made famous by Ernest Hemingway. My go-to drink is the Sloppy Rita made of Tequila, Triple Sec, Orange Juice, Sour Mix, Soda and as squeeze of lime.

Sitting at the bar, I struck up a conversation with the bar tender and learned that the current location is not the original Sloppy Joe’s, so I headed over to Captain Tony’s for a drink and a little history lesson.

Captain Tony’s Saloon is one of the most historic bars in Key West as the first and original Sloppy Joe’s bar in the early 1930s. I pulled up Sean Connery’s chair at the bar and took a seat. Inside are license plates hanging from the ceiling and dollar bills pinned up throughout the walls. Interesting characters and celebrities have passed through these doors, not to mention the fascinating owner of this long-standing dive bar, Tony Tarracino.

First constructed in 1852, this location was once an ice house, a morgue, a cigar factory, a bordello and speakeasy before becoming the original Sloppy Joe’s, first opened by Josie Russell. In 1968, Captain Tony purchased the bar and by the early 1970’s, Jimmy Buffett would make his debut, writing and singing his popular island tunes.

The Hog’s Breath Saloon was a short walk to try their Key Lime Shooter. The bar was easy to find as we followed t-shirts with the famous slogan, “Hog’s Breath is Better than No Breath at All”. While the Original Hog’s Breath was first opened in Ft. Walton Beach, Florida, owner Jerry Dorminy was looking for a sunnier location and headed to Key West as far south as one could go.

If I wasn’t paying attention, I would have easily passed by “The Smallest Bar in the US.” Measuring the size of a small jail cell, it is one of the busiest bars in Key West. We each ordered another Key Lime shot and decided to start our walk back to the hotel for the night. Walking southeast along Duval Street, I recognized the Bull and Whistle and since it was on our way, we wanted a view of Duval from the second story balcony.

The lower level bar is The Bull, the second floor is The Whistle, while the top floor is the Garden of Eden, an adults-only bar. From the second story, I could see that the night was slowing down and I wanted to take a photo of the Bull on Caroline Street (see the original bull from my second blog post, Key West, Florida – Looking Back on My First Visit in 1989, dated, January 19, 2014).

We had finally reached the Huron House and realized that we were more tired than we had thought. With a couple of days of vacation ahead, we agreed to more rest so that we could explore the next day.

Have you visited the bars on Key West on Duval Street? Do you have a favorite? I would love to hear about your visit to Key West if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.

Many thanks for reading about my full day in Key West and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Irish Kevin’s
211 Duval Street
Key West, FL 22040
Telephone: 305 292 1262

Sloppy Joe’s
201 Duval Street
Key West, FL 22040
Telephone: 305 294 5717

Captain Tony’s Saloon
428 Greene Street
Key West, FL 33040
Telephone: 305 294 1838

Hog’s Breath Saloon
400 Front Street
Key West, FL 33040
Telephone: 305 296 4222

The Smallest Bar Inn
124 Duval Street
Key West, FL 33040
Telephone: 305 240 0860

The Bull and Whistle
224 Duval Street
Key West, FL 33040
Telephone: 305 296 4545

Where to Stay:

Heron House
512 Simonton Street
Key West, FL 33040
Telephone: 305 294 9227

Where to Eat:

Sunset Tiki Bar – Located on the Marina
The Galleon Resort
617 Front Street
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: 305 295 0207

What to Eat:

Ceviche
Conch Fritters
Crab Cakes
Grouper
Lobster
Mahi Mahi
Shrimp

What to Read:

To Have and Have Not, by Ernest Hemingway
Key West, Tequila, a Pinch of Salt and a Quirky Slice of America, by Jon Breakfield
Gumbo Limbo, by Tom Corcoran
Florida Keys Volume 1: A History of the Pioneers, by John Viele

Photo Guide to Key West:

Casa Marina Key West
Charming Houses and Front Porches
Ernest Hemingway Museum
Fort Zachary Taylor
Hens and Roosters
Higgs Beach
The Kapok Tree
Key West Lighthouse
Key West Mural
La Concha Hotel
Marilyn Monroe at Tropic Cinema
Mile Marker 0
Mural at Waterfront Brewery
The Old Pier Behind Casa Marina
Rainbow Walkways at 801 Bourbon Bar
San Carlos Institute
Smathers Beach
Southernmost Beach Cafe
Southernmost House
Southernmost Point Bouy
The Strand

The Hemingway House in Key West

20 October 201919 September 2024

Acclaimed writer Ernest Hemingway’s travels took him all over the world, yet he made his home in the tropical climate of Key West, Florida. Today, visitors can explore the Nobel Prize winning author’s home where he spent nearly ten years and which inspired some of his latest writings.

Hemingway first arrived in Key West in the late-1920s with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer. They eventually purchased their home in 1931, renovating an old carriage house into a writing studio where he wrote To Have and Have Not. His favorite haunt was Sloppy Joe’s when he was home between his writing trips to Europe.

On one of these trips, Hemingway’s wife wanted to surprise him with a swimming pool. Unfortunately, he was not pleased with the cost of the pool and threw a penny into it claiming she would have spent his last cent. Today, that penny can be seen embedded in the concrete of the pool as a reminder of Hemingway’s disdain for the purchase.

Over the years, Hemingway would take up deep sea fishing and with fellow sailors, created a family bond. He owned a large fishing boat, called the Pilar, a nickname for Pauline.

For a gift, two of the fishermen gave Ernest a polydactyl cat, which were known for catching mice and considered good luck. He named his new pet, Snowball and today there are over fifty of these beautiful felines living on the property.

Just over a decade, Ernest’s second marriage would be in trouble and he would leave Key West for Cuba with third wife, Martha Gellhorn. Pauline would remain in Key West until her death in 1951 taking care of the estate and the cats. Hemingway’s sons sold the Key West home, which would eventually become The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum.

Have you visited The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum in Key West? What was your favorite part of your visit? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.

Many thanks for reading about my visit to Hemingway’s Home and Museum and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum
907 Whitehead Street
Key West, FL 33040
Telephone: 305 294 1575

Where to Stay:

Heron House
512 Simonton Street
Key West, FL 33040
Telephone: 305 294 9227

Where to Eat:

Sunset Tiki Bar – Located on the Marina
The Galleon Resort
617 Front Street
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: 305 295 0207

What to Eat:

Ceviche
Conch Fritters
Crab Cakes
Grouper
Lobster
Mahi Mahi
Shrimp

What to Read:

To Have and Have Not, by Ernest Hemingway
Key West, Tequila, a Pinch of Salt and a Quirky Slice of America, by Jon Breakfield
Gumbo Limbo, by Tom Corcoran
Florida Keys Volume 1: A History of the Pioneers, by John Viele

Photo Guide to Key West:

Casa Marina Key West
Charming Houses and Front Porches
Ernest Hemingway Museum
Fort Zachary Taylor
Hens and Roosters
Higgs Beach
The Kapok Tree
Key West Lighthouse
Key West Mural
La Concha Hotel
Marilyn Monroe at Tropic Cinema
Mile Marker 0
Mural at Waterfront Brewery
The Old Pier Behind Casa Marina
Rainbow Walkways at 801 Bourbon Bar
San Carlos Institute
Smathers Beach
Southernmost Beach Cafe
Southernmost House
Southernmost Point Bouy
Sunset at Mallory Square
The Strand

A Famous Wedding Takes Place at Malabar Farm State Park

16 July 201918 September 2024

Hollywood seems so far from Ohio, but for a pair of movie stars who wanted to escape the limelight of Los Angeles, Mansfield became the perfect location to wed and escape the paparazzi.

I began my visit to Malabar Farm State Park at the home of Louis Bromfield, standing on the front porch of the farmhouse. I looked out onto the open land and could see stately maple trees and endless rolling hills. It was a beautiful sunny day for a tour of the house followed with a wagon ride around the property.

Walking across the threshold, I was surprised to hear the theme of the Mickey Mouse Club playing on the grand piano where a small crowd had gathered.

The grand entrance of the home included beautifully restored wooden floors and elegant wallpaper. Original Audobon prints were displayed on the walls as well as artwork from friends and family.

I imagined Mrs. Bromfeld preparing for her day as she checked her daily planner or making calls on her rotary phone to confirm an appointment. Would she have planned a lunch date with her girlfriends, booked her weekly facial or scheduled a fitting for a gown before a special event? I couldn’t help but allow my mind to wander about the endless possibilities.

While the home was in great condition, there was evidence of wear and tear as displayed in the downstairs’ half bathroom. The floors were stained and the walls could have used a little upgrade.

The artwork was unique in each room with a variety of paintings. One of my most memorable moments was gazing into several beautiful farmland photos by artist Grandma Moses, who took up painting in her late 70s.

In 1896, Louis Bromfield was born in Mansfield, graduating high school in 1914. He attended Cornell University to study agriculture and after one semester, returned home, Helping his grandfather with the farm, Bromfield became injured and put his education on hold.

A year later, Bromfield returned to college at Columbia University to study journalism. As WWI began, he learned that there was a shortage of ambulance drivers and decided to join the military. It was here that he met, Walt Disney, Ernest Hemingway, Ray Crock and Gertrude falling in love with the French countryside.

Bromfield returned to the United States after the war and lived with his sister, a pianist living in New York City. While here, he became a Broadway critic in his early 20s and wrote for the entertainment section of the New York Times.

Often drinking at the local bar, it was here that Louis met Humphrey Bogart. Ironically, Louis had just recently given Bogart a bad review of his play, suggesting Humphrey give up acting. Despite the negative press, they somehow became great friends.

In 1921, Louis married Mary Appleton Wood, a rich socialite whose father owned Appleton Publishing Company. Honeymooning in Paris, they returned to Mansfield and built their beautiful property. Mary wasn’t thrilled to live at Malabar Farms and made it clear that she stayed because of her love for her husband.

The Bromfields had three children, Anne, Hope and Ellen. Their photos were displayed on the mantle of the fireplace located in the guest room. Hope and Ellen would go on to marry and have lives of their own living in Montana and Brazil, respectively. Anne had never married and lived with her father until his death.

Thirteen of Bromfield’s forty books were best sellers and based on his experiences on the farm. Some of his most recognized works include The Green Bay Tree, Lost Generation and Autumn Wind.

In addition to writing books, Louis was also a screen writer as well as a member of New York’s “Cafe Society.” His income was an impressive $2500 per week.

In 1938, Walt Disney employed Louis to write the screenplay for the story of Ferdinand and to supervise its animation. Based on the popular children’s book from 1936, I was surprised to learn that the production was considered a short film, lasting under eight minutes. Cells of the animated works were presented to Bromfield’s daughters and are on display at Malabar Farm.

Bromfield was known for his love of dogs, especially boxers, where at one time he had eighty of them on the farm.

Louis Bromfield’s novel, “The Rains Came” became a movie in 1938. An aspiring actress from the 1930s and 40s, Myrna Loy, starred in the film which is based on the story of a British aristocrat who moves to India with her husband. She meets a gentleman and befriends him but becomes enamored with a surgeon who doesn’t take much notice of her.

Years later, Louis would receive a call from Humphrey Bogart that would transform the farm into a wedding chapel for two of America’s most beloved stars. It was here, in 1945, where Humphrey wed Lauren Bacall despite their 25-year age difference. The decision to marry at Malabar was to escape the paparazzi and press of Hollywood. They arrived in Mansfield under police escort as they immediately applied for their marriage license at the courthouse. The wedding ceremony took place that day in the presence of their beloved friends and they departed for Hollywood the next day.

The Bromfields decorated their living room similar to their space in Paris. Because they loved to entertain their guests, they temporarily removed furniture to make way for social events. The mirrored wall is covered with 48 stars of the 1939 American flag.

One of my favorite spaces in the house was the large dining room with its elegant chandelier and casual sunroom. On the white table, there were several wedding photos and a copy of their marriage certificate on display.

Exiting the kitchen, we were invited to board a tractor pulled hayride. Ready to explore the rolling hills and the surrounding tall trees, we passed by the family cemetery, a large pond, the Bromfield barn and the Malabar Farm Restaurant.

The hayride dropped us off at the barn and I was excited to see several animals boarded here. The rambunctious baby goats chased each other within the enclosure. I couldn’t help but stay to watch them play for awhile before deciding to have lunch at the nearby Malabar Farm Restaurant.

Bromfield led a colorful life before returning back to his native home of Ohio. Malabar Farms, the 32-room mansion standing in the midst of 600 acres of farmland in Pleasant Valley, was once the home of Pulitzer Prize-winning Louis Bromfield and the setting of a Hollywood wedding.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Malabar Farms State Park? Did you tour the Louis Bromfield home? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my visit to Malabar Farms and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Malabar Farms State Park
4050 Bromfield Road
Lucas, OH 44843
Telephone: 419 892 2784

Malabar Farm House – The guided tour of the Bromfield family house lasts 75 to 90 minutes and is not recommended for small children

Admission Fee: $6 per adult, $5.40 for seniors, $4 for youth and no charge for children 5 and under
Hours: April: Sat – Sun at 11AM and 2PM most weekends. Call ahead. Memorial Day through Labor Day: Sunday to Thursday: 11AM & 2PM, Friday and Saturday: 11AM, 2PM and 4:30PM; Labor Day through October 31^st: Tuesday through Sunday 11AM and 2PM; November and December: 11AM and 2PM; November – December: Saturday through Sunday: 11AM and 2PM most weekends. Call ahead. No tours on December 24^th, 25^th and 31^st; Closed January through March.
Tips for Your Visit: Call ahead of time for tour dates and times.

Where to Stay:

Landoll’s Mohican Castle
561 Township Road 3352
Loudonville, OH 44842
Telephone: 419 994 3427

Where to Eat:

Malabar Farm Restaurant
3645 Pleasant Valley Road
Lucas, OH 44843
Telephone: 419 938 5205

This restaurant has amazing farm-to-table menu items. Try the Maytag Bleu Filet Mignon.

What to Read:

Pleasant Valley, by Louis Bromfield
The Farm, by Louis Bromfield

An Authentic Audubon Print

Disclosure: Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

Key West, Florida – Looking Back on My First Visit in 1989

15 January 201431 August 2024

What is the first thing that comes to mind when someone mentions Key West? The gorgeous sunsets at Mallory Square? The tenacious pub crawlers along Duval Street or the eclectic festivities that give the island its signature flair?

I didn’t know what to expect on my first visit to Key West. I was only 19 years old working on a cruise ship and it was the first stop on our itinerary before traveling to Cozumel. My fellow pursers guaranteed that I would love Key West, but I could not have imagined how many memories I would make here. This magical place seemed more like a Caribbean island than a Florida port of call.

There was so much to learn about Key West that summer. I booked a lobster dive, visited the Treasures of the Atocha museum and watched Jimmy Buffett perform at a local bar. Rich with history and a unique culture unto its own, it is no doubt, Key West is unlike any other place I have ever visited in the US.

Originally given the Spanish name Cayo Hueso (Bone Cay), Key West was once a settlement of the Calusa people, an Indian tribe known for their fierce, war-like disposition. The English, mispronouncing the name, would later call it “Key West”.

The island was also a popular hideout for pirates who attacked Spanish treasure ships sailing from the Caribbean to Spain.

By 1912, the coral islands of the Keys would become accessible by rail with the completion of Henry Flagler’s railroad. Damaged by hurricane winds in 1935, the rail line was abandoned and replaced by the 123-mile Overseas Highway.
Touring the island by trolley was my favorite way to explore the island. The open-air tram made its way through town, stopping at several historical landmarks.

I remember how excited I was to reach one of Key West’s most popular sites, the Southernmost Point of the Continental U.S. Standing at the corner of South and Whitehead Streets, I was surprised to learn I was closer to Cuba than Miami. This cute little bouy-like structure attracted visitors from all over the world and the line for a photo was worth the wait.

At the top of the monument, there is a reference to Key West as “The Conch Republic.” The trolley guide explained that on April 23rd, 1982, the island seceded from the mainland with the desire to establish itself as its own country. The events leading to this decision began when US border patrol set up a checkpoint at the entrance to Key West. This border stop infuriated residents when a 17-mile traffic jam occurred and began to interrupt Key West’s tourism industry. When the government refused to listen, Mayor Wardlow decided to declare war on the United States. Within one minute, he quickly surrendered and applied for foreign aid in the amount of one billion dollars. This publicity stunt resulted in the US government agreeing to remove the inspection station and life in Key West went back to normal.

For the conchs of Key West, the 1982 Conch Republic secession is celebrated each year with a ten-day festival taking place around April 23rd. Among the festivities are a Pirate’s Ball, the Conch Crawl and a Musical that reenacts the events of the secession.

I caught the next trolley from the Southernmost Point and disembarked at the Ernest Hemingway Home. The beautifully restored two-story home is located at 907 Whitehead, across from the Key West Lighthouse. Hemingway wrote many of his great novels here from 1931 to 1939 including “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”, “The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber”, “Green Hills of Africa” and “To Have and Have Not”.

I enjoyed a tour of Hemingway’s home, the property and his inspirational studio overlooking the pool. Following the guided tour, I opted to take a second stroll of the home to explore the gardens of hibiscus, jasmine and gardenias.

One of the highlights of my visit was watching the Hemingway’s cats lounging among the lush tropical plants outside. Descendants of Hemingway’s beloved polydactyl (many toes) cat Snowball, the nearly fifty felines have taken up residence in this luxurious estate.

My final ride on the trolley returned me to Duval Street. A popular hub of restaurants, bars, shops and museums, cruise ship passengers could participate in the “Duval Pub Crawl” with a stop at the Bull and Whistle. Known as the “oldest Open Air Bar in Old Town Key West”, it is located on the corner of Duval and Caroline Street. The Bull, located on the ground level, showcases a beautifully hand-painted mural, paying homage to a number of the island’s influencers. Yankee Jack has been entertaining patrons of the Bull with his performance of “On the Walls of the Bull”.

The Whistle is the bar upstairs providing great views of Duval Street and the opportunity to shoot a few games of pool. The Garden of Eden is the bar located on the third floor for visitors interested in a clothes optional environment.

Before leaving the Bull and Whistle, I begged one of my colleagues to pose next to “The Bull” on Caroline Street.

Duval Street is just over a mile long running north and south of the island. The most well-known bars of Key West include Sloppy Joe’s, Rick’s Bar Key West, Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville Cafe, Irish Kevin’s, Captain Tony’s and Hog’s Breath Saloon.

Each year, Sloppy Joe’s pays homage to famous author Ernest Hemingway by staging its annual Ernest Hemingway look-alike contest.

My day in Key West had come to a close but I had one more attraction to experience. I had arrived at Mallory Square with plenty of time to enjoy the live entertainment and secure a pier-side seat to watch the spectacular sunset. The plaza was bustling with arts and crafts stands, food carts and street performers. I waited in anticipation as sailboats glided by and catamarans drifted off into the horizon. I took several photos of this unforgettable moment and looked forward to experiencing it again on my return.

What is one of the most memorable sunsets that you have seen in your travels? I would love to hear about it! Tell me about your experience or recommendations for places to visit in the comments section below! Many thanks for reading my post about Key West and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Southernmost Point
At the corner of South and Whitehead Streets
Key West, FL 33040

Admission Fee: Free
Hours: Open 24/7
Tips for Your Visit: The trolleys drive by The Southernmost Point and a drop off location for the shuttle is nearby. There may be a line to wait to take your photo at the buoy.

The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum
907 Whitehead Street
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: 305 294 1136

Admission Fee: Adults, $13 and Children, $6, group rates may apply (12 or more)
Guided Tour: Admission includes a 30-minute guided tour
Hours: 9AM to 5PM, 365 days per year, including ALL holidays
Tips for Your Visit: The museum is home to many cats and may affect those with cat allergies.

Mallory Square
Address:
400 Wall Street
Key West, FL 33040

Cost: Free
Hours: Open 24/7; best time to visit is during sunset
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early because the square fills up with spectators who are visiting to watch the sunset. Festivities begin 2 hours before sunset.

Where to Stay:

Heron House
512 Simonton Street
Key West, Florida 33040
Toll Free Number: 800 294 1644

I absolutely loved this property with the accommodations surrounding the pool. The plants and foliage are thick and provided much appreciated privacy during our visit! The rooms were spacious and there was a complimentary breakfast provided each morning!

Where to Eat:

There are so many colorful restaurants with a variety of cuisine in Key West that selecting one place is incredibly difficult. Because I have a love for Cuban Sandwiches and Oysters, here are my two recommendations:

Half Shell Raw Bar
Waterfront dining
231 Margaret Street – 305 294 7496

Oysters, oysters and more oysters! Food & Wine Magazine voted the restaurant “Best Local Oysters.” I ordered a half dozen lightly steamed oysters with hot sauce and crackers along with an order of the conch fritters appetizer which included six fritters served with cocktail sauce.

What to Eat:

Key West pink shrimp – said to be sweeter than other shrimp
Conch – a tough, hardy mollusk usually cooked as fritters
Seafood – snapper, grouper and lobster
Key Lime Pie – a tangy, creamy dessert made from key limes

Where to Drink:

The Bull and Whistle
On the corner of Duval and Caroline Streets
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: 305.296.4545

Hours: 10AM to 4PM, daily
Tips for Your Visit: Note that the rooftop bar, the Garden of Eden is clothing optional. Check out the website for coupons before you visit.

Cuban Coffee Queen (two locations)
284 Margaret Street – 305 292 4747
5 Key Lime Square – 305 294 7787

I started with a Cafe con Leche, the strong Bucci coffee with steamed milk. I loved the Cuban Mix sandwich because it was the closest to an authentic Cuban sandwich with a side of black beans. Save room for Key West’s famous Key Lime pie!

What to Read:

Ernest Hemingway books
Jimmy Buffet: The Key West Years, by Tom Corcoran
Hemingway’s Girl, by Erica Robuck
The Best Key West Trivia Book Ever! by David L. Sloan

Photo Guide for Key West:

801 Bourbon Bar (cabaret and karaoke) for interesting characters
Duval Street for the drinking crowds and colorful shops
Higgs Beach Pier, for amazing sunrises
Mallory Square, especially at sunset
San Carlos Institute for Cuban history
Smather’s Beach for long exposures during the day
The Strand, after dark for the neon lights
The Tropic Cinema, at night for the neon lights

Disclosure: Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.