fishing village – the suite life of travel

During our family vacation trip to Grand Traverse Bay, I set out on an adventure to explore the Leelanau peninsula, even if I had to go at it alone. I was intrigued by the thought of visiting an authentic fishing village, so I took a day to stroll Leland’s historic district of Fishtown in search of a seaside restaurant to spend the afternoon.

The early morning fog had settled over the harbor and an eerie atmosphere surrounded the shops and restaurants of Leland. Although they had not yet opened, I window shopped this charming village, while following along the wooden boardwalk admiring the interesting boutiques and boats.

The wooden shanties built along the Leland River reminded me of an old Western town on a waterfront. Once home to Native Americans who fished and hunted near Lake Michigan, Leland became a profitable fishing district when European settlers made Fishtown their home in the mid 1800s. In addition to the number of inns, shops and restaurants in the area, longtime business, Carlson’s Fishery has been selling some of the best smoked fish in the state since 1906. One could spend at least a couple of hours exploring the wineries, galleries and attractions before hopping the ferry to nearby Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park.

Diversions is one of the older establishments that has been here over 40 years. With prime location on the docks, this hat shop also sells t-shirts, gifts, clothing, jewelry and sweatshirts.

A popular fishing town with over five generations of fishermen, Fishtown provides charters that will take visitors out to Lake Michigan for the day. The Fish Hook and Reelin’ Leland Fishing Charters are available for a half day or full day of fishing.

For exploring Sleeping Bear Dune’s Manitou Islands, Leland is the starting point to hop aboard the Manitou Island Transit making daily trips from mid-June through Labor Day. They also host shoreline cruises which take place in the evening, providing a great way to explore the Leelanau Peninsula coastline from a different point of view.

There are quite a few activities and attractions to visit in Leland and Fishtown. These towns host several events throughout the year, including the popular Leland Wine and Food Festival in June.

I found the Leelanau Peninsula a beautiful escape from the touristy areas near Traverse City and enjoyed the opportunity to explore some of the most picturesque coastline that Michigan has to offer.

Have you visited Leland and Fishtown? Do you have a favorite place to visit on the Leelanau Peninsula? I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks for reading about my morning in Leland and Fishtown! Wishing you many Happy Travels!!

What to See and What to Do:

Leland and Fishtown are perfect coastal towns for exploring on foot.

Where to Stay:

Leland Lodge
565 Pearl Street
Leland, MI 49654
Telephone: 231 256 9848

On my first visit we rented a house in Traverse City, but I loved Leland so much that I planned a second long weekend trip and stayed at The Leland Lodge, which was absolutely spectacular!

Where to Eat:

The Riverside Inn
302 East River Street
Leland, MI 49654
Telephone: 231 256 9971

On a separate trip from my family vacation, David and I were excited to find a riverside view to have dinner and booked a reservation at the Riverside Inn. There were several unique options, so I started out with the Octopus Carpaccio, while David selected the Socca. Socca is a popular dish in Nice, France that includes chickpea flour crisps topped with caramelized onion, blistered tomatoes, arugula and fresh thyme. It was finished with a creme fraiche and saba (a grape must reduction which was popular in ancient Rome.)

We decided on the Sea Bass which was served over heirloom tomato barley orzoto, lemon beurre blanc, and salsa verde and the Diver Scallops which were seared and served over sauteed spinach with crispy bacon lardons, shallot coconut cream and crispy fried shallots.

We celebrated with a glass of Prosecco and agreed on a bottle of Pinot Blanc from local wine producer, Verterra Winery.

What to Eat:

The Coney Dog from Detroit, Jackson or Flint.
Vernor’s Ginger Ale
Founded in the Upper Peninsula, the pasty is a pastry pocket with fruit filling
Mackinac Island Fudge
Apples
Cherries
Detroit Style Pizza shaped in a rectangle and baked until the edges are crispy.
Better Made Chips from Detroit
Germack Pistachios
Walleye Fish from the Great Lakes
Faygo beverages

What to Read:

Leelanau Trek: One Shoreline/Two Visions, by Ken Scott and Kaye Krapohl
Painting the Magic of Sleeping Bear Country, by Hank Feeley
Edward Beebes’ Historic Leelanau Photographs, by Jack Hobey

Photo Guide to the Leelanau Peninsula and Surrounding Area:

Empire Bluffs Trail, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
Pyramid Point, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
M22 road signs
Lake Michigan Lighthouses
Lake Michigan Sunsets

In the harbor, the cruise ship was tucked into a little cove at Pointe Seraphine. We had just arrived in St. Lucia where we were surrounded by sailboats and speed boats. Wanting to see as much of the island as possible, I signed up for a ship’s excursion which included a tour of the island by bus and then a return trip back to the ship by Catamaran. I couldn’t wait to start my day.

I boarded the bus and the journey began in Castries, the island’s capital. The bus was full of passenger as we passed Derek Walcott Square. Our driver explained that we were in the center of town and he pointed out a large samaan tree which is said to be over 400 years old.

As the road continued upwards, there were twists and turns where we caught glimpses of the cruise ship through the trees. Heading south, we passed The 1895 Government House, home to the Governor-General of St. Lucia.

On the winding road towards Soufriere, the bus took a moment for us to stop at Marigot Bay, one of the most beautiful views of the island. There was a lookout with a small shop where we could pick up some water, local food items or a Piton beer made in St. Lucia. We had some time to shop and then reboarded the bus to our next scenic view.

The road descended from the picturesque views of Marigot Bay to the volcanic shores of a local fishing village. Stopping for an opportunity to shop and wander the streets of the town, we decided to venture out onto the pier for a short stroll.

Once a week, the town hosts a fish fry for locals and visitors but it is their celebration of Carnivale for which they are best known. Similar to Mardi Gras in New Orleans, visitors from the surrounding islands arrive in flamboyant costumes and dance in the streets for a week-long party. There are several murals painted on the walls that show elements of the festivities.

According to our tour guide, we had one last stop to take in the million dollar view of the Pitons and to shop for souvenirs. The two peaks, majestically rising out from the ocean, seem to protect the charming little port town below. Our next stop takes us to the Diamond Botanical Garden before boarding the catamaran back to the ship.

Participating in a ship’s shore excursion has its many benefits. Passengers can sit back, relax and take in the scenery while learning about the country from well-educated tour guides. Do you usually take the ship sponsored tours or go on your own? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly provide your story in the comments below. Many thanks for taking the winding roads with us through St. Lucia! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Take a stroll through downtown Castries, St. Lucia to experience the local culture. See the ancient Saaman Tree at Derek Walcott Square, explore the Arts & Crafts Market as well as the Farmer’s Market to purchase cocoa, spices, and local artwork.

Where to Stay:

Windjammer Landing
Labrelotte Bay
PO Box 1504
Castries, St. Lucia
Telephone: 877 522 0722

Reserving a two bedroom villa, I did not want to leave my private pool, but the grounds and accommodations at Windjammer Landing were absolutely gorgeous.

Where to Eat:

Windjammer Landing
Labrelotte Bay
PO Box 1504
Castries, St. Lucia
Telephone: 877 522 0722

Embers at Windjammer Landing was my favorite place to dine for lunch. The pulled pork flatbread was perfectly spiced with jalapeno peppers and pepper jack cheese. I also enjoyed the Ember’s Fish Tacos, with garlic aioli and pineapple salsa.

For an incredible steak and seafood dinner, I highly recommend the local conch chowder and the grilled filet mignon at the Upper Deck Restaurant at the resort.

For a more casual atmosphere and menu, offering salads, soups and burgers, Jammer’s beachside restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick, delicious bite.

To sample some of the local island cuisine, I suggest the Tuesday night Caribbean buffet at Dragonfly which offers a wide selection island flavors from St. Lucian soups to their national dish Green Fig and Salt Fish.

What to Eat:

Boudin – black pudding
Bouyon – beef soup with dumplings but other meats can substitute for beef
Callaloo soup – made with seafood or cuts of meat, okra, potatoes and garlic
Cassava Bread
Cow Heel Soup – a hearty soup with cow foot, carrots, pumpkin, chayote squash and yellow yam with dumplings
Curried Meats
Fried Plantains
Green figs and saltfish
Grilled Fish
Lambi – conch meat seasoned with multiple spices and then fried
Lobster
Pemme – cornmeal, pumpkin, cinnamon, sugar and dry coconut leaves then wrapped in banana leaves
Pepperpot – Caribbean dish made from onion, garlic, cinnamon, brown sugar, thyme, cloves, orange peel, cassareep and meat
Smoked herring and breadfruit – breadfruit is cooked until tender