The Timeless Beauty of the Amalfi Coast

4 August 201918 September 2024

Arriving into the port of Naples, I quickly noticed a clear distinction between the ancient city and its modern metropolis. Commercial vessels, cruise ships and fishing boats lined up along the pier as passengers and merchandise came ashore. Several ships transported tourists to the local islands while buses waited at the entrance of the port for day trippers to explore the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii.

The cruise ship, Pullmantur Sovereign, offered several interesting excursions for the day and it was difficult to decide between the Amalfi Coast drive or a day in Capri. I was also interested in Pompeii but in the end, I chose the coastal drive to explore Amalfi, Sorrento and a drive through Positano.

The Amalfi Coast was once a luxury getaway for the Caesars of Rome with its aquamarine seas and picturesque cliffs. The dramatic coastline extends about 67 miles with hairpin turns and dangerous switchbacks while precipitous cliffs vertically plunge into the sea. Charming hillside towns miraculously appear along the route with their colorful, picturesque exteriors.

We were about 45 minutes from our first stop and in the distance I could see the islands of Procida, Capri and Ischia. The morning haze had lifted and glimpses of the spectacular vistas began to appear.

Looking out the window of the bus, I found myself lost in the stunning villages with their picturesque harbors, high cliffs and coves. I imagined renting a sailboat and leisurely coasting along the shoreline in pursuit of an outdoor restaurant or a private beach for an afternoon of rest and relaxation.

I could hardly contain my excitement as the bus passed road signs directing us towards the charming town of Sorrento, known for its production of limoncello.

Once we arrived, we began our walk towards the center of town. Narrow alleyways branched off from the plaza filled with outdoor restaurants and souvenir shops. Fruit stands overflowing with colorful produce and limoncello were popular stops along the thoroughfare. Limoncello, a lemon liquor made from local Femminello St. Teresa lemons, was handed out in plastic cups for tourists to sample before buying.

Overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento’s warm, year-around climate and dramatic views make it a popular vacation spot. Piazza Tasso (Tasso Square) is surrounded by bright pastel buildings and ceramic displays hanging from its exterior walls. A statue of St. Anthony, the patron saint of the town, stands guard within the square. Buses make a quick stop to pick up passengers visiting Marina Piccola or Via Capo. The plaza, vibrant with tourists and locals, is the heart of this coastal town.

I bought a few bottles of limoncello to take back home as gifts and browsed the ceramic pieces which were absolutely stunning. Our next stop brought us to the town of Amalfi, once an important trading port along the Mediterranean.

The winding road of Strada Statale 163 (SS 163) is the connection between Amalfi and Sorrento. Built during the Roman Empire, the roadway is exceptionally narrow with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The passage is carved among the cliffs with tunnels that frame the breathtaking views. Before reaching Amalfi, the road passes through Positano, a picturesque village on a hill, which is the coast’s most photogenic town.

Before we entered the tunnel that led to Amalfi, a traffic jam brought our bus to a complete stop. Our tour guide offered us the chance to take the walkway down to the harbor or we could stay on the bus until the traffic subsided. Unanimously, our group was happy to exit the bus to stretch our legs and start the hike towards the shore.

Amalfi was once a maritime superpower in the 10^th and 11^th centuries with its multiple trade routes rivaling those of Genoa, Pisa and Venice. Once a population of more than 70,000, the laid-back, humble Amalfi of today is home to about 5,000 residents who depend on tourism to survive. With one main street connecting the waterfront to the valley, visitors can easily walk from one end to the other in about 20 minutes.

We reached the tranquil cove where sailboats were anchored and motorboats docked. I was mesmerized by the sun’s rays and the images reflecting off of the sea. Peaceful and calm, I could have stood in this spot for the remainder of the day.

From the harbor, we crossed the street entering the Piazza del Duomo. My eyes were immediately drawn to the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea (Duomodi Amalfi). The basilica, built between 1000 to 1300 AD, is dedicated to the apostle Andrew, the brother of St. Peter. It is believed that the remains of St. Andrew were brought to Amalfi during the Crusades and is buried in the Crypt within the cathedral.

The Boutique Coralli e Cammei is known for its ceramic merchandise and dates back to 1885. On my way out, I enjoyed shopping among the tiles, dishes, flower pots and artwork.

It was time for us to meet at the mossy fountain before boarding the bus. Across the street I caught one last glimpse of the harbor and looked forward to the scenic ride back to the ship.

I imagine Capri is absolutely fabulous and that the Pompeii ruins are incredible, but I could not have picked a better day to have explored the Amalfi Coast.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Amalfi Coast? Which towns were your favorite? I would love to hear about your visit to southern Italy if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my day exploring the Amalfi Coast and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Limonoro
Via San Cesareo 49/53
80067 Sorrento Italy
Telephone: +39 081 878 5348

The go-to shop for purchasing limoncello! Yum!

Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Sant’Andrea)
Via Duca Mansone I
84011 Amalfi, SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 873558

Admission Fee: 3 Euros to visit the church and the museum
Hours: 10AM to 5PM
Scenic View: A lovely view of the piazza from the stairs leading into the basilica.
Amount of Time to Visit: 30 minutes to an hour
Tips for Your Visit: The Cloister of Paradise leads into the museum of the Basilica of the Crucifix and the relics of St. Andrew, the Apostle of Christ.

Where to Stay:

Plaza Sorrento – in Sorrento
Via Fuorimura, 3
80067 Sorrento (Napoli) Italy
Telephone: +39 081 8073942

Hotel Aurora – in Amalfi
Piazzale dei Protontini, 7
84011, Amalfi, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871209

Il San Pietro di Positano – in Positano
Via Laurito, 2
84017 Positano, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 812 080

Where to Eat:

Terrazza Bosquet at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria – in Sorrento
Piazza Tasso, 34
80067, Sorrento, Italy
Telephone: +39 081 877 71 11

It became a joke between my boyfriend, David and I that I had never visited a Michelin star restaurant for dinner, so for a lovely surprise during our stay in Sorrento, David took me to Terrazza Bosquet.

For a starter, we ordered the Saffron Marinated Sea Bass with Smoked Provolone cheese and black truffle and for dinner I ordered the Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Basil, while I encouraged David to order the Tasting Menu (105 Euros) for various options to sample. For wine, we ordered the Malbec Riserva, 2012 Domaine Bousquet. What an incredible experience!

Ristorante Eolo – in Amalfi
Via Pantaleone Comite, 3
84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871241

We had eaten a late lunch, so we decided to enjoy one of the restaurant’s sumptuous desserts and a bottle of wine! We each ordered the chocolate bombe with raspberry sauce with gold shavings. Perfect with our wine, Passopisciaro Passorosso 2015 from Mt. Etna in Sicily.

Da Adolfo – in Positano
Via Laurito 40,
Positano, italy
Telephone: +39 089 875 022

To reach this amazing, historical restaurant, you have to take a five minute boat ride from the port of Positano. The menu is limited, but we LOVED the mussels and Adolfo’s chicken….and of course, the local wine!

What to Eat:

Delizia al limone: A signature dish of the Amalfi Coast, this decadent dessert is made from lemons, limoncello, eggs, sugar and flour.
Goat cheese from Monti Lattari: One of the most exclusive cheeses from this area and is found in most local restaurants.
Limoncello: This after dinner drink is prepared using local lemons.
Mozzarella cheese: Produced from both cow milk and buffalo milk, this mild cheese is best eaten plain at room temperature.
Pasta: The region of Campania is known for making its own extraordinary pasta.
Provolone del Monaco: Another cheese from this region, this semi-hard cheese can be eaten raw
Scialatielli ai frutti de mare: Translated as traditional pasta with seafood, this dish was made famous by local chef Enrico Cosentino in the 1960s.
Spaghetti alla Nerano: Spaghetti noodles cooked with zucchini, provolone and topped with basil. Nerano is the name of the city where this dish was created.
Wines from Tramonti, Ravello and Furore

What to Read:

My Amalfi Coast: Travel Edition by Amanda Tabberer
Gelato Sisterhood on the Amalfi Shore by Chantal Kelly
The House in Amalfi by Elizabeth Adler
Amalfi Blue: Lost & Found in the South of Italy by Lisa Fantino

Photo Guide for the Amalfi Coast:

Spaggia Grande in Positano: Classic photo against the backdrop of colorful cliffside houses…stunning photography.
The Staircase at the Duomo in Amalfi: Pose on the steps for an iconic photo.
Villa Cimbrone in Ravello: The Terrace of Infinity provides views of endless blue with Roman statue in the background.
The Streets of Vietri sul Mare: Capture the charm of this colorful waterfront village.
The Fjords in Furore: Pose against the beautiful scenery of the cove and the amazing bridge in the background.
The Beach in Atrani: Pink buildings provide the perfect contrast with the blue umbrellas on the beach.
Colorful Coastal Fruit: Stop along the charming seaside towns and their fruit stands for colorful photos.

A Fountain in Amalfi

A Tour of San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro

21 May 201821 September 2024

San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro is the iconic representation of a city rich with history and architecture. The fort, also known as El Morro, has lasted over 400 years, protecting the southwestern side of the island from invaders and pirates. But what was the reason that a fort was built here in the first place? It was strategically located between the continent of Europe and the New World where ships could seek shelter, water and supplies and it was determined, that occupation of this land would give wealth to the country that controlled this entrance into the Caribbean Sea.

It was in 1493 when Christopher Columbus came to the island and first claimed it for Spain. Puerto Rico would later fall to the British and Dutch, but only for very short periods of time. During the Dutch attack in 1623, hundreds of Dutch and Spanish soldiers gave their lives. It wasn’t until the 1800’s that Spain would cede ownership of the island to the United States of America, ending the Spanish-American War.

As I walked through the Greek-style entrance into the fort, I noticed the thick walls that gave an extra depth to the fortification of the city. It would take Spain over 250 years to build El Morro. The structure that stands today is similar to the how the fort would have looked in 1790.

I was so interested in the structure of the fort that I hardly noticed the large iguanas on the interior lawn of El Morro. I also noticed them climbing up the fortress wall and stopped a few times to take a closer look because they were camouflaged so well.

As I crossed the bridge into El Morro, I entered Level 5 of the six levels of the fort. Looking up from this level there were three flags representing the Spanish Army, Puerto Rico and the United States of America.

The cannons were a reminder of the importance of this fort in times when it was occupied to defend the island. Many of them used bronze 8-pound cannonballs that took eight to ten artillerymen to operate them. Their strategy was to fire the cannons every thirty seconds, reaching targets a mile away.

The kitchen was a very important part of the lives of the soldiers. Meals were prepared here using ingredients such as fish and cured meat that came from Spain. When the meat arrived, it was inedible so the soldiers soaked it with vegetables and spices creating a type of stew. It is said that this is the origin of sancocho, a stew that remains popular both in Puerto Rico as well as other Spanish-speaking countries.

After visiting many of the rooms, including the powder room, on the fifth floor, I took the ramp up to the sixth floor to see the area known as the “Land Defense”.

From the level six of the fort, it was easy to see why this floor would be considered a strong area of defense. With the evidence of cannons stationed here, there was little space between each one, guaranteed to hit their targets coming in from the sea.

It wasn’t until 1846 that the first of four lighthouses (two would be rebuilt) at El Morro were erected to provide safe passage for ships into and out of the harbor of San Juan. Prior to the restoration of the lighthouse that currently stands on El Morro, the previous house was made out of red brick and was in desperate need of repair.

I couldn’t help but notice the spectacular view from Level 6 of El Morro and imagined an invasion of ships heading toward us in the distance.

Next, I took the stairs down to the lower level. At this point, I was heading toward the Cannon Water Battery. It was here where I found the remaining cannons on display and the embrasures from which the cannons were fired.

There was a medieval watch tower in the center of the battery. Known as the Torre Antigua, some believe it may be haunted.

Looking over the wall, I could see another fort out into the horizon at the end of Isla de Cabras (Goat Island). This is El Morro’s sister fort, San Juan de la Cruz, translated as St. John of the Cross. It was strategically placed here to create crossfire in the event that ships would try to slip past El Morro on the far side of the channel. This small fort is also referred to as El Canuelo.

From this vantage point, I clearly understood the importance of this area in defense of the island and how important it was for protecting San Juan.

The view from the top of the fort emphasized the complicated structure of El Morro. The worn away, weathered stone and its height gave it the sense of strength and might. The thickness of the walls provided a sense of wonder and impenetrability.

I came across a structure that seemed more updated and out of place. I learned that this was once an Observation Post which was used during WWII. After the Second War, El Morro would no longer act as a military base.

Continuing my climb up the fort, I noticed where the cannons would have been placed and the circular patterns that they created when moved to the left or right to hit their target out in the ocean.

El Morro is unlike any fortress I have seen throughout the United States. It was built and designed to protect the city and remains an iconic figure to San Juan. There have been several forts along the American coasts, but this is one of the most fascinating and well preserved.

Have you had the opportunity to visit El Morro? What are your thoughts about this expansive structure? I would love to hear what you liked most about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about our exploration of El Morro and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro
501 Norzagaray Street
San Juan, PR 00901
Telephone: 787 729 6754

Admission Fee: $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 6PM. Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Amenities: Gift shop and restrooms
Scenic Views: Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
Length of Visit: 2 – 3 hours
Tips for Your Visit: There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises. Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water. (Carts outside sell water).

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas Old San Juan
202 Calle San Jose
San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Telephone: 787 722 9191

Amenities: Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

Where to Eat:

Cafe El Punto
105 Calle Fortaleza
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Telephone: 787 725 1306

I can’t resist ordering the local dish, mofongo where the main ingredient is fried plantains most likely served with a healthy helping of meat such as chicken, beef or seafood.

What to Eat:

MOFONGO! This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan. Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
Pastelon: San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.