Independence Square – the suite life of travel

Setting off towards the island capitol of Barbados, I left the cruise port and found a walking path reaching the heart of the city. Bridgetown is the island’s hub and only city that sits on the harbor of Carlisle Bay. The shaded trail followed along the outlying beaches where sailboats and fishing vessels were anchored.

Within minutes of walking along Prince Alice Highway, I arrived at a fishing complex which included the Jolly Roger Tavern and a few exhibits. The small plaza was connected to a boardwalk where catamarans, sailboats and speedboats were available for rent. There was a tour prepared to sail out for the day, so I watched the passengers board and continued on with my walk towards town.

Approaching the heart of town, I continued my stroll towards the Charles Duncan O’Neale Bridge, a cute little drawbridge that continued into another section of Bridgetown. The bridge is named for O’Neale, a Bajan national hero, credited as one of the founding fathers of democracy for Barbados. At the end of the bridge, an archway overlooks the Waterfront Café and displays the country’s crest. Flanked by the symbol of the Triton, the pelican and fish are etched into the stone pillars on each side.

I climbed the stairs to the Waterfront Café to watch the fishing boats come into the sound. Contemplating the rest of my afternoon, I ordered a Banks Caribbean Lager, a local beer from Barbados and a flying-fish sandwich, a Bajan delicacy.

I had the perfect view of the Parliament Buildings from the café. The original building had burned in the Bridgetown fire of 1668 and in 1971, the west wing was added, followed by an east wing three years later. Under British parliament, the Senate and House of Assembly meet here. Stained glass windows of British Kings and Queens begin with James the First and ending with the reign of Queen Victoria. Visitors can attend Parliament sessions which meets on most Tuesdays, but make sure to dress in business casual.

I settled my bill and decided to cross over to the other side to explore Independence Square, which had recently been renovated as a park. In the square stood a large statue of one of Barbados’ national heroes, The Right Excellent Errol Walton Barrow, who was the country’s first Prime Minister.

There are several other notable attractions inside of the square including the Dolphin Fountain which was built in 1861. Within walking distance is a Cenotaph which honors the Bajan heroes that died while serving in World Wars I and II.

The statue of Lord Nelson made its appearance at the National Heroes Square. Formerly known as Trafalgar Square, this sprawling was renamed in 1999. While the statue is similar to the one in London’s Trafalgar, it is not an exact replica which was erected in 1813, about 35 years before the one in London.

I had a few hours to spend in Barbados and decided to negotiate a great deal on a two hour island tour of the west end. For $50, I saw the island’s oldest church, rode by the homes of Rihanna and Tiger Woods and enjoyed a spectacular view from St. Nicholas Abbey. Read more about my adventure in my Barbados blog post “Barbados Taxi Tour: West Side of the Island”. Exploring Barbados for a day from a cruise ship gives you the opportunity to visit some of the highlights of the islands. I’m sure this short day will leave you coming back for more.

When you visit cruise ship ports, are you more likely to stay close to the harbor towns or venture out? What has been your favorite adventure? I would be so happy to hear about your travel experiences if you leave your responses in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my day in Barbados and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Parliament Buildings
Bridgetown, St. Michaels,
Barbados
Telephone: 246 310 5400

Admission Fee: $10 for Adults
Hours: Open Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 10AM to 4PM. Open Saturday from 10AM to 3PM.
Amenities: Guided tours are subject to availability and visitors can attend debates, tour the buildings and see the Clock Tower.
Length of Visit: 1.5 to 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Please note that attendance to debates is subject to the approval of the Clerk of Parliament and the Speaker of the House. Dress appropriately in business casual dress.

National Heroes Square
The Wharf Road
Bridgetown, St. Michael
Barbados

Where to Eat:

Jolly Roger Tavern
Carlisle House
Bridgetown, Barbados
Telephone: 246 436 2885

We enjoyed the laid back atmosphere of the Jolly Roger, and it was located along the waterfront, great for people watching.

Waterfront Cafe
The Careennage
Bridgetown, Barbados, West Indies
Telephone: 246 427 0093

Drink the local beer, Banks Caribbean lager and order a flying-fish sandwich!

What to Eat:

Flying Fish – the national dish of Barbados
Fish Cakes – salted cod or whitefish
Pepperpot – meat with Bajan spices and hot peppers
JugJug – guinea corn flour, pigeon peas, salted beef brisket, ham or other salted meats, pork or chicken, onions, and other herbs and spices
Pudding and Souse – steamed sweet potatoes made with onions, salt and pepper and souse is a picked pork dish
Roti – island burrito

What to Read:

Washington Black, by Esi Edugyan
A Caribbean Mystery, by Agatha Christie
Captain Blood, by Rafael Sabatini

Photo Guide for Barbados:

The Animal Flower Cave
Cherry Tree Hill
Silver Sands Beach
Almond Beach Resort
Speightstown
Rihanna Drive, Bridgetown

The Gothic Style Parliament Buildings of Bridgetown, Barbados

The Cenotaph

The Port of Barbados

Bridgetown Harbor

Fishermen bringing in their catch of the day

Today Dave and I will be escaping the Port Zante shopping plaza to visit the heart of Brassaterre in St. Kitts. Beautiful pastel colored structures welcomed us, just as with many other Caribbean ports, but we were eager to experience the West Indies feel of the island and could not wait to leave the crowds behind for a more relaxing day.

The security and welcome center sits at the end of the dock where cruise ship passengers must show their credentials to obtain passage to the dock. Once we crossed through the check point, we followed the signs that would take us into the island’s historical center. To our far left was a pier for the island ferry that connects St. Kitts to Nevis’ capital of Charlestown.

Before escaping the pier, I couldn’t resist the opportunity to pay $5 for a few photos with the island’s green vervet monkey. I was tempted to bring him back with me, but he wouldn’t fit into my bag. Such a fun start to my day on St. Kitts.

Immediately we arrived at the historical district starting with a visit to the National Museum. Formerly the city’s treasury building, it is quite noticeable with its large rotunda and archway entrance. When sugar cane was once the primary income for St. Kitts, this building was an important part of the island’s economic structure.

Walking deeper into town, the charming architecture mimics that of Sint Maarten with its gingerbread trim. We noticed a green cast iron clock with fountains on each side. Located in the center of a circular roundabout, it is known as “The Circus”, reminiscent of London’s Piccadilly Circus. Where several roads meet in the middle, the Berkeley Memorial Clock pays respect to the former president of St. Kitts’ Legislative Assembly, Thomas Berkeley.

Our walk takes us towards the right, away from the clock tower and approaching Independence Square. Originally named Pall Mall, this was once a slave market where enslaved Africans would congregate to sell their merchandise.

Surrounding the park were 18th century warehouses where slaves were held prior to being sold. These structures stand as a reminder of St. Kitts’ past. In 1983, it was renamed Independence Square to commemorate the independence of St. Kitts and St. Nevis from the rule of Great Britain.

Leaving the square, we found Cayon Street which led us to St. George’s Anglican Church. This beautiful, brownstone chapel was constructed in 1869 and sits on a former battle site. Built over land where soldiers had died, many believe its location is the reason for its series of catastrophes dating back to 1670 when it was first erected.

Walking towards the back of the church, we learned from an older couple that visitors could climb to the top of the bell tower. If there is one thing that I love, it is a scenic view, so I headed back inside where I noticed a small door. Although the opening was tight, there was a small winding staircase and another set of stairs that led to the top.

The stairs were steep so a few who had set out for the climb decided to return downstairs. I was glad I reached the top because the view was worth the climb. There were small cut-outs in the rock were I could capture a view from each side of the bell tower. From one location I could see the neighborhood streets of St. Kitts.

Towards the north was the cloudy peak of the mountain.

The cruise ships in port dominated the scenery at the south.

And on the east end, I caught a glimpse of the island’s football (soccer) field. I was careful not to step directly on the tin roof in fear that it may collapse. As I was taking the steep ladder and stairs down to the bottom, I was alarmed by the sound of the bells as they rang from the clocktower.

The cathedral marked the end of our walking tour and Dave suggested we stop at a local restaurant for a couple of Caribe beers. We ordered the special, 3 for $5 before making our way back to the ship.

We passed through security and continued our walk on the pier greeted by two ships in the distance. There was plenty of time between now until our departure, but we decided to board early for some time to recharge and reminisce about another beautiful day in paradise.

Do you prefer taking a ship excursion for each port or would you rather go out on your own? I would love to hear your pros and cons in the comments section below! Many thanks for reading about our time in St.Kitts! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The National Museum
Bay Road
Basseterre, St Kitts & Nevis

Admission Fee: Adults and Children: US $3
Hours: Open Monday through Friday from 9:15AM to 5PM. Open Saturday from 9:15AM to 1PM on Saturday and on Sunday from 9AM to 1PM.
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: The museum is within walking distance from the port.

Independence Square
Basseterre, St Kitts & Nevis

St. George’s Anglican Church
Basseterre, St. Kitts & Nevis
Telephone: 869 465 2167

Where to Stay:

Royal St. Kitts Hotel
406 Zenway Boulevard
Frigate Bay, St Kitts & Nevis
Telephone: 869 465 8651

Where to Eat:

Marshalls
Horizon Villa Resort
Fort Tyson Rise
Basseterre, St. Kitts
Telephone: 869 466 8245

The view from Marshalls is spectacular with the restaurant overlooking the gorgeous harbor. David and I decided to order several starters because their descriptions were enticing. We selected the Freshly Caught White Ceviche marinated in lime, red onions, cilantro and hot peppers, garnished with green plantain chips, the Conch Fritters spiced with bell peppers, onion, celery, served with tartar sauce, the crab cake served with remoulade sauce and escargots. For our main entree, we shared the Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass enhanced with olive tapenade served with lemon beurre blanc. The carrot cake was decadent and we could not pass up the chocolatey molten chocolate cake.

What to Eat:

Blood Pudding, a cuisine influenced by the island’s former British rule
Conch Fritters
Cook up, also known as Pelau, this dish is a local favorite with a mix of meats (usually beef, salt fish and pork), additional ingredients include rice, pigeon peas and a number of vegetables.
Goat Water – local goat stew
Johnny Cakes a sweet, flour based cake that is deep fried
Lobster
Roti – unleavened flat bread filled with a variety of meats and/or vegetables
Salt Fish and Dumplings, the island’s national dish, this meal is made of local salt fish, breadfruit, coconut dumplings and spicy plantains.
Sugar Cake – a desert made of sugar, coconut and ginger

What to Read: