The Timeless Beauty of the Amalfi Coast

4 August 201918 September 2024

Arriving into the port of Naples, I quickly noticed a clear distinction between the ancient city and its modern metropolis. Commercial vessels, cruise ships and fishing boats lined up along the pier as passengers and merchandise came ashore. Several ships transported tourists to the local islands while buses waited at the entrance of the port for day trippers to explore the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii.

The cruise ship, Pullmantur Sovereign, offered several interesting excursions for the day and it was difficult to decide between the Amalfi Coast drive or a day in Capri. I was also interested in Pompeii but in the end, I chose the coastal drive to explore Amalfi, Sorrento and a drive through Positano.

The Amalfi Coast was once a luxury getaway for the Caesars of Rome with its aquamarine seas and picturesque cliffs. The dramatic coastline extends about 67 miles with hairpin turns and dangerous switchbacks while precipitous cliffs vertically plunge into the sea. Charming hillside towns miraculously appear along the route with their colorful, picturesque exteriors.

We were about 45 minutes from our first stop and in the distance I could see the islands of Procida, Capri and Ischia. The morning haze had lifted and glimpses of the spectacular vistas began to appear.

Looking out the window of the bus, I found myself lost in the stunning villages with their picturesque harbors, high cliffs and coves. I imagined renting a sailboat and leisurely coasting along the shoreline in pursuit of an outdoor restaurant or a private beach for an afternoon of rest and relaxation.

I could hardly contain my excitement as the bus passed road signs directing us towards the charming town of Sorrento, known for its production of limoncello.

Once we arrived, we began our walk towards the center of town. Narrow alleyways branched off from the plaza filled with outdoor restaurants and souvenir shops. Fruit stands overflowing with colorful produce and limoncello were popular stops along the thoroughfare. Limoncello, a lemon liquor made from local Femminello St. Teresa lemons, was handed out in plastic cups for tourists to sample before buying.

Overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento’s warm, year-around climate and dramatic views make it a popular vacation spot. Piazza Tasso (Tasso Square) is surrounded by bright pastel buildings and ceramic displays hanging from its exterior walls. A statue of St. Anthony, the patron saint of the town, stands guard within the square. Buses make a quick stop to pick up passengers visiting Marina Piccola or Via Capo. The plaza, vibrant with tourists and locals, is the heart of this coastal town.

I bought a few bottles of limoncello to take back home as gifts and browsed the ceramic pieces which were absolutely stunning. Our next stop brought us to the town of Amalfi, once an important trading port along the Mediterranean.

The winding road of Strada Statale 163 (SS 163) is the connection between Amalfi and Sorrento. Built during the Roman Empire, the roadway is exceptionally narrow with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The passage is carved among the cliffs with tunnels that frame the breathtaking views. Before reaching Amalfi, the road passes through Positano, a picturesque village on a hill, which is the coast’s most photogenic town.

Before we entered the tunnel that led to Amalfi, a traffic jam brought our bus to a complete stop. Our tour guide offered us the chance to take the walkway down to the harbor or we could stay on the bus until the traffic subsided. Unanimously, our group was happy to exit the bus to stretch our legs and start the hike towards the shore.

Amalfi was once a maritime superpower in the 10^th and 11^th centuries with its multiple trade routes rivaling those of Genoa, Pisa and Venice. Once a population of more than 70,000, the laid-back, humble Amalfi of today is home to about 5,000 residents who depend on tourism to survive. With one main street connecting the waterfront to the valley, visitors can easily walk from one end to the other in about 20 minutes.

We reached the tranquil cove where sailboats were anchored and motorboats docked. I was mesmerized by the sun’s rays and the images reflecting off of the sea. Peaceful and calm, I could have stood in this spot for the remainder of the day.

From the harbor, we crossed the street entering the Piazza del Duomo. My eyes were immediately drawn to the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea (Duomodi Amalfi). The basilica, built between 1000 to 1300 AD, is dedicated to the apostle Andrew, the brother of St. Peter. It is believed that the remains of St. Andrew were brought to Amalfi during the Crusades and is buried in the Crypt within the cathedral.

The Boutique Coralli e Cammei is known for its ceramic merchandise and dates back to 1885. On my way out, I enjoyed shopping among the tiles, dishes, flower pots and artwork.

It was time for us to meet at the mossy fountain before boarding the bus. Across the street I caught one last glimpse of the harbor and looked forward to the scenic ride back to the ship.

I imagine Capri is absolutely fabulous and that the Pompeii ruins are incredible, but I could not have picked a better day to have explored the Amalfi Coast.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Amalfi Coast? Which towns were your favorite? I would love to hear about your visit to southern Italy if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my day exploring the Amalfi Coast and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Limonoro
Via San Cesareo 49/53
80067 Sorrento Italy
Telephone: +39 081 878 5348

The go-to shop for purchasing limoncello! Yum!

Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Sant’Andrea)
Via Duca Mansone I
84011 Amalfi, SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 873558

Admission Fee: 3 Euros to visit the church and the museum
Hours: 10AM to 5PM
Scenic View: A lovely view of the piazza from the stairs leading into the basilica.
Amount of Time to Visit: 30 minutes to an hour
Tips for Your Visit: The Cloister of Paradise leads into the museum of the Basilica of the Crucifix and the relics of St. Andrew, the Apostle of Christ.

Where to Stay:

Plaza Sorrento – in Sorrento
Via Fuorimura, 3
80067 Sorrento (Napoli) Italy
Telephone: +39 081 8073942

Hotel Aurora – in Amalfi
Piazzale dei Protontini, 7
84011, Amalfi, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871209

Il San Pietro di Positano – in Positano
Via Laurito, 2
84017 Positano, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 812 080

Where to Eat:

Terrazza Bosquet at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria – in Sorrento
Piazza Tasso, 34
80067, Sorrento, Italy
Telephone: +39 081 877 71 11

It became a joke between my boyfriend, David and I that I had never visited a Michelin star restaurant for dinner, so for a lovely surprise during our stay in Sorrento, David took me to Terrazza Bosquet.

For a starter, we ordered the Saffron Marinated Sea Bass with Smoked Provolone cheese and black truffle and for dinner I ordered the Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Basil, while I encouraged David to order the Tasting Menu (105 Euros) for various options to sample. For wine, we ordered the Malbec Riserva, 2012 Domaine Bousquet. What an incredible experience!

Ristorante Eolo – in Amalfi
Via Pantaleone Comite, 3
84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871241

We had eaten a late lunch, so we decided to enjoy one of the restaurant’s sumptuous desserts and a bottle of wine! We each ordered the chocolate bombe with raspberry sauce with gold shavings. Perfect with our wine, Passopisciaro Passorosso 2015 from Mt. Etna in Sicily.

Da Adolfo – in Positano
Via Laurito 40,
Positano, italy
Telephone: +39 089 875 022

To reach this amazing, historical restaurant, you have to take a five minute boat ride from the port of Positano. The menu is limited, but we LOVED the mussels and Adolfo’s chicken….and of course, the local wine!

What to Eat:

Delizia al limone: A signature dish of the Amalfi Coast, this decadent dessert is made from lemons, limoncello, eggs, sugar and flour.
Goat cheese from Monti Lattari: One of the most exclusive cheeses from this area and is found in most local restaurants.
Limoncello: This after dinner drink is prepared using local lemons.
Mozzarella cheese: Produced from both cow milk and buffalo milk, this mild cheese is best eaten plain at room temperature.
Pasta: The region of Campania is known for making its own extraordinary pasta.
Provolone del Monaco: Another cheese from this region, this semi-hard cheese can be eaten raw
Scialatielli ai frutti de mare: Translated as traditional pasta with seafood, this dish was made famous by local chef Enrico Cosentino in the 1960s.
Spaghetti alla Nerano: Spaghetti noodles cooked with zucchini, provolone and topped with basil. Nerano is the name of the city where this dish was created.
Wines from Tramonti, Ravello and Furore

What to Read:

My Amalfi Coast: Travel Edition by Amanda Tabberer
Gelato Sisterhood on the Amalfi Shore by Chantal Kelly
The House in Amalfi by Elizabeth Adler
Amalfi Blue: Lost & Found in the South of Italy by Lisa Fantino

Photo Guide for the Amalfi Coast:

Spaggia Grande in Positano: Classic photo against the backdrop of colorful cliffside houses…stunning photography.
The Staircase at the Duomo in Amalfi: Pose on the steps for an iconic photo.
Villa Cimbrone in Ravello: The Terrace of Infinity provides views of endless blue with Roman statue in the background.
The Streets of Vietri sul Mare: Capture the charm of this colorful waterfront village.
The Fjords in Furore: Pose against the beautiful scenery of the cove and the amazing bridge in the background.
The Beach in Atrani: Pink buildings provide the perfect contrast with the blue umbrellas on the beach.
Colorful Coastal Fruit: Stop along the charming seaside towns and their fruit stands for colorful photos.

A Fountain in Amalfi

Cruising the Pullmantur Sovereign- COMPANY CLOSED

9 February 201616 March 2025

UPDATE: During the COVID Pandemic, Pullmantur announced liquidation of the company. As of November 2020, the company stated that it would be up and running again by the end of 2021.

Having come off of a whirlwind two-day visit to Rome, I boarded the Pullmantur Sovereign for a seven day cruise through the Mediterranean. The spectacular itinerary included some of the most beautiful sites the Med coast has to offer. With a full week of excursions, I could just sit back, relax and enjoy the cruise.

Pullmantur is a cruise line based out of Spain and is very popular with the Europeans. The primary language on board is Spanish, but announcements are followed up in English. This piqued my interest along with the fact that alcoholic beverages are included in the price of the cruise. I had learned about the company while searching for a cruise on the Vacations to Go website and booked it immediately.

So why did I choose Pullmantur? First there was the itinerary of course, but having checked the cost of cruises in the Mediterranean, I found this to be quite economical at US $349 for 7 days (not including port fees and taxes). AMAZING! In addition, the price for my roundtrip ticket to Rome was only $850 so I could not pass up the opportunity and knew that I was going to have the time of my life.

Travel Tip: I took this cruise in late September, which is considered off-season. The weather is still quite warm and the children have all gone back to school by this time.

My journey began in Rome where I had a couple of days to wander the ancient ruins, historical museums and religious places of worship. It was my first time in The Eternal City, so to be honest, I was slightly overwhelmed. I had booked the hop on, hop off bus because I knew it would be an economical way to explore the sites costing me only $50. The bus route listed a number of stops where the main attractions were within a couple of blocks. I was able to step off of the bus for an hour or two, return back to the drop off location and reboard at my convenience.

The day of my cruise had arrived and I had hired a car to take me to Civitivecchia, which lasted approximately 45 minutes. Upon arrival at the port, I was pleasantly surprised that there were no long check-in lines. Within minutes, I had passed through security, boarded the ship and dropped off my luggage in my room. When I inquired how the process of embarkation could be completed so quickly, I learned that Barcelona was the originating port. Rome had less than 100 passengers boarding on that day and I was excited to start my adventure.

To learn more about my adventures in Rome, check out my following blog posts!

Visiting Rome – Day 1
My First Trip to Rome – Day 2
St. Peter’s Basilica
St Peter’s Square
The Roman Forum
Palatine Hill
Capitoline Hill
From Piazza Popolo to the Spanish Steps

Next stop Livorno!

Livorno is a port town located in the northern region of Italy. It is the perfect location for day trips to Florence, Tuscany and the colorful villages along the coast like Portofino. There are several tours that operate from the ship and I selected the Pisa and Tuscan Wines tour. If I had the opportunity to cruise this ship again, I would definitely choose the Coast of Cinque Terre and Porvenere! There were so many great options! To hear about my exciting day in Pisa and Lucca, check out my following blog posts for some great information about these two spectacular locations!

Pisa and Its Leaning Tower
An Afternoon Wine Tasting in Tuscany

Additional excursions from the ship:

Florence and Pisa: This excursion includes a guided tour of the Renaissance city of Florence with stops that include the Cathedral of Santa Maria dei Fiori, the Ponte Vecchio bridge and Piazza della Signora. The next stop on the tour is Pisa to see the famous Leaning Tower and to roam the Piazza dei Miracoli. The cost per adult is 85 Euros.
The Best of Florence begins in the historic center with views of the Piazza da Santa Croce and the Ponte Vecchio. Visit the Uffizi Gallery with some of the world’s most famous art by renowned Renaissance artists such as Leonardo Da Vinci and Michelangelo.
Lucca the Fortress City: Explore the wonderful city of Lucca that dates back to the Roman period of 180 BC. The guided tour includes a visit to the Old Quarter, San Michele de Foro, the Guinigi family tower, a Roman amphitheater and the Cathedral of San Martino. The cost for this tour is 38 Euros.
The Coast of Cinque Terre & Portvenere: For 77 Euros per person, a bus will take visitors to Manarola, which is the oldest of the Cinque Terre villages. Take a tour of the area and then a boat ride to Vernazza. From here, catch the ferry to Monterosso where lunch will be served with time to explore the town and shop. Another scenic boat ride will take passengers to Portovenere until returning back to the ship in Livorno.
Italian Pasta Experience: The coach will take you to Lucca where a tour guide will give you an overview of the beautifully walled city. See the narrow streets while visiting the churches of San Frediano and San Michele. There will be plenty of time to wander before visiting Pisa. Learn how to make pasta and of course, there will be plenty to sample. The cost for this tour is 188 Euros per person.
Florence and Wine Tasting in a Tuscan Castle: Take a 90 minute bus tour through Renaissance Florence before arriving at the Piazza della Santa Croce. Here there will be an opportunity to see street performers and shop among the traditional craft shops in the village. After a 45 minute ride, arrive in Greve at one of the main castles where a traditional Tuscan lunch will be served, and of course plenty of wine.

Our next stop on the itinerary was Villafranche, France. I remember the beautiful, subdued hues of this cozy port town and wished I had the additional time to visit the relaxing cafes along the harbor.

I opted to book the Monaco and Monte Carlo bus trip which was panoramic, pristine and posh. To learn more about my visit to Monaco, check out the following post!

The Beautiful French Riviera: Villafranche and Monte Carlo

Some of the other excursions available were:

Nice – Eze: Take a coach tour to Nice and walk the famous “Promenade des Anglais”. Check out the Hotel Negresco before taking a guided tour through the old part of the city. The medieval village of Eze is one of the most picturesque villages of the Cote d’Azure located high on a hilltop with amazing views of the coast. Stop by one of the famous perfumery’s which is known for its amazing scents. The tour is 45 Euros per person.
Nice and Saint Paul de Vence: In addition to visiting the famous beachfront of Nice, this tour also includes a walk through the medieval village of Saint Paul de Vence. Considered two of the most picturesque locations in the French Riviera, go from walking the beach to exploring cobblestone streets with a rich history. The cost for this tour is 39 Euros per person
Mountain Village of Eze and Nice Wine Tasting: For only 69 Euros per person, take a visit to the medieval mountain village of Eze and then on to Nice, famous for its Promenade des Anglais. Enjoy Provencal wines with a professional oenologist.
Dream Villas in the Blue Coast: Explore the luxurious peninsula at Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and visit the one time residence of baroness Rothschild to wander the home and gardens. The bus tour takes the coastal drive back to Villafranche where million dollar homes line the coast. This tour costs 50 Euros per person.
A Tasting Tour of Nice: Visit the local fresh market and sample its produce on this guided tour of Nice. Visit the Old Town district with its Baroque buildings and neo-classic colonnades. Try some of the local specialties such as pissaladiere or socca. The tour allows for some free time to wander about the Old Town for some shopping or a cup of coffee. This tour costs 90 Euros per adult.

I had been waiting for the day when our ship reached Barcelona. I was so excited to see all of the architecture and to stroll the street of Las Ramblas.

I had decided that instead of booking an excursion with the ship, I would go out on my own and purchase the Hop On Hop Off bus tour. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate and there was a torrential downpour. I was determined to make the most of my time in Barcelona where was able to visit the Boqueria market, the Sagrada Familia, Palau Guell and Parc Guell. I wished I had more time in Barcelona because there were so many interesting points of interest, that I will need to make plans for a future trip!

The ship offers its own wonderful share of excursions for Barcelona to include:

A Tour of Barcelona: See the architectural wonders of Antonio Gaudi by visiting the ever changing Sagrada Familia. This tour is perfect for the price at 29 Euros. Check out the popular Gothic Quarter, shop and visit the cathedral. The tour includes a stop at Montjuic, which overlooks the city and was once the sight of the Olympic Games.
Barcelona Highlights and Jamon Tasting: Starting in the Gothic Quarter, see the medieval side of Barcelona’s historical buildings. Stroll Las Ramblas, the main thoroughfare that runs north and south through the city. Enjoy a ham tasting sampling three different types as you sip on a glass of cava. Complete the tour with a visit the to ever so vibrant Boqueria market. All of this for only 39 Euros per person.

Day Four was spent at sea as we sailed toward Tunisia. The following day, we arrived at the port of Tunis. Weeks before cruising to Tunisia, the US embassy was attacked and it was recommended that Americans should not disembark while in port. We took heed to their warning and stayed aboard, but if I had the opportunity, I would have loved to have seen the city of Carthage and the village of Sidi Bou Said, which is said to look much like a Greek village with its whitewashed buildings accented in blue.

According to the brochure on the ship, “Sidi Bou Said is perched high atop of a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean, this picturesque village is a delightful place for a leisurely stroll through winding cobbled streets. Wander around the boutiques for souvenirs or relax at a cliff-side Moorish café”. Sounds exciting!

UPDATE: The ship no longer travels to Tunisia due to the heightened safety alert to visit this country.

It was Day Five and we were visiting the Italian city of Naples. Besides having its own historical significance, there are some great locations close by that are truly worth exploring. I selected Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast but making my decision was not an easy one when tours to Capri and Ischia were also offered.

Panoramic Tour of Pompeii and Naples: Check out one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in all of the world, Pompeii. Back in Naples, visit the Posillipo neighborhood, the Mergellina district and the great seaside promenade. Take the opportunity to visit the Ovo castle in the charming district of Santa Lucia and explore the busy fisherman’s neighborhood. The tour costs 49 Euros per adult.
Pompei & Vesuvius: Pompeii was devastated by the explosion of Mt. Vesuvius in 49AD. Pompeii is now an archaeological site and Vesuvius a national park. Take an hour long city bus tour of Naples before reaching these sites. The tour costs 89 Euros per person.
Capri: Catch a Jet-Foil boat ride from the port of Marina Grande through the Bay of Naples. Hop on a ship that will take you around the island before heading back to port. Catch the minibus to Capri’s Piazetta where there will be plenty of time to stroll the city’s famous white streets. This tour is well worth the 89 Euros per adult. (If the weather does not cooperate, the excursion will head over to the town of Anacapri).
Tour of Naples: Stroll the Piazza del Plebiscito where you will discover Castles, Galleries and an Opera House. There will be time on your own before visiting the San Gennaro Duomo. Continue to the tour with stops at Mergellina, Via Caracciolo and the Ovo Castle. You can’t beat this price at 34 Euros per adult.
Relaxing Ischia: This is a perfect excursion for 85 Euros per adult. Reach the island quickly by hydrofoil for a visit to Ischia, the largest isle on the Gulf of Naples. Famous for its hot springs, the tour coach also takes you through the municipalities of Ischia, Barano, Serrara Fontana (for wine sampling) and Forio (for a local meal). Walk through the Castiglione Gardens at Lacco Ameno and or visit the town of Casamicciola. This tour include the spa facilities at the gardens which include 10 different pools, and two saunas, whirlpools and a platform that gives you the opportunity to swim in the sea surrounding the island.

I had one last day in Rome but since I was staying close to the airport, I decided to stay near the hotel. The ship offered quite a few options in Rome, including:

A Full Roman Excursion: Check out some of the most iconic spots in Rome which include, the Vatican City, Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel. Stand in awe in front of Michelangelo’s Pieta and then it’s time for lunch. Hop on the bus for a sightseeing tour to see the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus and Mussolini’s balcony, The tour cost is only 85 Euros per adult.
Eternal Rome and Imperial: Start in the Vatican City to visit St. Peter’s Basilica and the square. Take a walk to the Trevi Fountain and then after lunch, check out the Piazza Navona. Before completing the tour, drop by the Roman Forum and see the exterior of the Colosseum. All of this for only 64 Euros per person.
Etruscan Secrets. See the secret Etruscan tombs and the Tarquinia Museum for only 59 Euros per person. The tombs are located in Monterozziune and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Venture into the city to view the Roman church of San Francisco and the XIII century palace.
Tivoli and Hadrian’s Villa: Dating back to the second century, Villa Adriana was the home of Emperor Hadrian and is now a World Heritage Site. Some of the features of the house include a Greek theater, spas and baths, a maritime theater and the Golden Piazza, a residential complex. Next, visit Villa Este with gardens that are fit for a king. Check out the Alley of the Hundred Fountains. This is an exceptional tour and will set you back 115 Euros per adult.

The Pullmantur Sovereign was the perfect ship for my Mediterranean trip. Having worked on ships for over three years, I remember my cruise ship days as if it were yesterday. I was especially fond of the “Sail Away” events where I could watch passengers enjoy the start of their cruise setting sail for its first destination. It have to admit, I wasn’t going to pass up the opportunity for a Bon Voyage drink!!

Have you cruised with Pullmantur? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for your interest in my trip with Pullmantur! Happy Travels!