The Theater of Miletus

29 July 202323 September 2024

On a tour of Turkey, our group made a quick stop at Turkmen Carpets where we learned how carpets were made. I saw, first-hand, the exquisite work that was put into themcreation of these carpets by some of the local weavers before we boarded the tour bus for our next location, Miletus.

The archaeological site of Miletus, a once prosperous Turkish city, was one of the principal Ionian cities of Asia Minor. It was also a stop on Apostle Paul’s third missionary journey. As our coach approached the site, we noticed the outer wall of the theater, visible from the tour bus and a large space of hewn stone. It was hard to believe that at one time, Miletus was the wealthiest of all Greek cities during the Hellenistic era.

The theater is only one stop on our trip to Miletus. This large structures is similar to our theatrical stages of today and was built into a hill between the Bay of Lions and the Theater Harbor. Sixty rows of seats climb to the top with a seating capacity of 15,000 spectators. Construction began in the 4^th century BC but improvements were made under the direction of Emperor Trajan. The third level was later added with ornate decorations to the columns representing hunting scenes with the god Eros.

According to historian Josephus, there was a Greek inscription on the fifth row that read, “For the Jews and the God-fearers.” It was a reminder of Rome’s “tolerance of the Jews” that resided in Miletus and were permitted to attend the theater.

We climbed up to the seats which would have been reserved for the upper class in the first few rows. I could clearly see the three sections of the Roman theatre that included the backstage area, additional seating arrangements for the audience and the orchestra. The productions would have been nothing less than extravagant and the acoustics, spectacular.

Looking into the stadium, there were four columns that seemed set apart from the general population’s seating area. Known as the “Royal Box”, it was located in the center of the first few rows and was designated as an exclusive box for the emperors. The columns were used to drape a covering over the area to shade the royals from the inclement weather and heat of the sun.

An interesting feature of the Miletus theater were the lion paws on the outer edge of the benched seats. Lions were symbols of strength and royalty back in the ancient days and the ornate design seemed to suggest that this was once a flourishing city.

Even the small details that our tour guide pointed out were absolutely fascinating. For example, taking a closer look at the stone platform designated for the Emperor and his family, we could see the awning attachments.

Gazing up towards the high seats of the Miletus Theater, I could clearly see the third row addition. The cave-like entrances provided a way in and out of the theater. The added space would have also minimized the interaction between the upper and lower class.

Just as the spectators would have left the theater, we made our way out towards the public structures of this well-preserved archaeological site. Our guide pointed out some of the major points of interest, but with such little time, we could only see some of these ruins from afar. There was so much to explore in the town of Miletus.

Have you traveled to Miletus? What were some of the places that interested you? I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my excurstion to Miletus! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

To learn more about the archaeological site of Miletus, check out my recent blog post, The Baths of Miletus.

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Baths of Miletus

The Baths of Miletus

22 July 202323 September 2024

Approaching the archaeological site of Miletus, it is obvious that there is a large influence of Roman architecture and tradition that once made an impact on this city. One of the more important customs was that of public bathing.

In the city of Miletus there were three bathing areas: the Capito Thermae, Humei Tope Thermae (in the north) and the Faustina Thermae operating in the south. During the First Century BC, Cnaeus Vergilius Capito donated the resources for a large building complex which would contain an exercise area and baths. An inscription located on the northern section of the Ionic Stoa, confirms his donation. Because baths were more of a social activity among the Romans, this compound was perfectly situated between the Delphinion and the Hellenistic Gymnasium. In the Palaestra, the exercise area, was a swimming pool. There were three sections to the baths (Thermae) which were the dressing rooms, the warm bath and the hot bath.

The Delphinion was built near the Harbour of Lions as a sanctuary of Apollo Delphinios who was the patron saint of sailors and ships. It was first constructed in the 6^th century BC, and went through several updates before it was destroyed in the 5^th century AD. The ruins clearly show the remains of a circular temple which was once protected by a roof and sheltered the altar where the residents brought their offerings. There were inscriptions found on the inner walls of the stoa and on the stelae indicating that this location was also once the city’s archive.

Many of the ancient ruins were not without a Nymphaem, which was one of the most important features of the city. This fountain was considered to be one of the most impressive of all of the Ionian cities. A three story structure with a façade that displayed Corinthian columns, it is said to have looked much like the façade of the Library of Celsius in Ephesus. You can find the Nymphaem on the western part of the city between the northern Capito Thermae and the southern North Agora and the Gymnasium of Eudemus. The structure also contained niches and pedestals on which statues would be displayed. The statues represented gods and demi-gods and it was estimated that there was a total of 27 throughout the building.

The South Gymnasium also known as the Gymnasium of Eudemis, was built on a north to south axis on the southern part of the city. On the esatern side of the Sacred way leading to the sanctuary of Didymia is an Ionic Stoa. It was quite long with seven steps leading up to the 36 columns supporting a beautifully decorated frieze. The original structure was built during the Flavian dynasty and further alterations were completed during the time of the Emperor Trajan.

Within close proximity to the theater were the Faustina Baths, which were built in the second century AD under the direction of Marcus Aurelius’ wife. These were the dressing rooms for the baths. At its height, the baths were an extensive complex with large fountains in various shapes such as the river god Meander, a small lion and other statues of the gods.

The building was a single story structure which included hot and cold baths, an area for physical exercizes and exquisite sculpture decoration. There were 13 rooms on each side which acted as changing rooms for the visitors. There were also beds provided in these rooms for the visitors in the event that they would want to rest.

While visiting Miletus, it is a bit difficult to imagine that this city was once a port town, situated on a peninsula, with three harbors on the west and one on the east. The harbors have since silted up to the point that the site now sits 5 miles inland. Today it is a popular shore excursion from the cruise lines that port in Kusadasi and is well worth the visit if you have an interest in ancient ruins, history and religion.

Have you had the pleasure of visiting Miletus? What aspects of the ancient city did you find fascinating? I would love to hear about your travel experience if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for escaping away with me to Miletus and I hope you have many Happy Travels in your near future!

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus

Passing Time Inside the Clock Tower of Venice

7 August 202019 September 2024

My first glimpse of the Clock Tower in Venice came on the day of my arrival when I exited the vaparetto at St. Mark’s Square. My eyes were drawn to the deep blue and gold accents of its façade, the winged lion and the bell which sat atop the clock. Built in the late 1500’s, the tower was built to represent the glory and wealth of Venice during the Renaissance Era. Strategically placed in the center of the plaza, the beautiful clock was visible to all who approached the island.

Prior to arriving in Venice, I found a group tour online that offered a behind the scenes look inside of the Torre dell’Orologio, Venice’s Clock Tower. I booked it immediately, fascinated by the opportunity to learn more about the history of the clock and to experience an up close look of its operating system. Of course I couldn’t pass up the scenic views from its lofty tower.

After all of the tour attendees arrived, we entered through a secret door on Merceria Street at the base of the clock, We climbed a set of steep, narrow stairs towards the housing of the internal workings of the clock. A system of pulleys and weights control the outside face of the clock while the gears and teeth are working in the background to keep up with the time.

Looking up towards the tower on the outside, I happened to notice a set of circular windows. From these glass panes, I could look out on the square below. Through the portholes, I felt like a spy, watching the tourists cross through the square while others waited in line for the next vaporetto.

Climbing the stairs to the second level, we approached a set of Roman numerals and Arabic numbers displaying the current time. This unique system is controlled by weights and pulleys from the inside. The Roman numerals represent the time’s hour while the Arabic text calculates the minutes.

On the exterior, there is a statue of the Virgin Mother and Jesus looking out from the balcony. The winged lion of Venice stands in front of an unidentified open book. There had once been a statue of the Doge that knelt before the lion, but it was removed after the city was captured by Napoleon.

During the holiday seasons of Epiphany and Ascension Day, the numbers and numerals are removed to make way for the rotating three Magi and an angel that pass over the face of the clock. Crossing in front of the Virgin and Child on the balcony, they disappear into the opposite door returning on the hour, every hour. Our guide opened the door of a nearby storage room to see the holiday figures in the storage room. We learned that these are the original statues that were dedicated in February of 1499.

We climbed up the final set of stairs to the clock tower’s bell. Located at the top of the clock, we stepped onto the roof terrace for a spectacular view of St. Mark’s Square. Above us, there were two moors with mallets that rang the bell and we happened to have arrived at the time of their ringing. From the veranda we had several minutes to enjoy the view below which included the square, St. Mark’s Church and the Camponile. We could clearly see the spires of the multi-domed cathedral, the three winged lions surrounding the camponile, Theodore and his alligator, as well as the Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore across the Grand Canal. After enjoying the view, we returned to the square and admired the Torre dell’Orologio.

Staring closely at the face of the clock, I could clearly see the signs of the zodiac designed in ultramarine and gold leaf at its center. Twenty-four Roman numerals have been etched in white marble on the outer circle, representing the twenty-four hours of the day. I was amazed at all of the features of the clock that I would not have otherwise noted. The tour, led by Elizabeta, provided an additional insight into the wonders of the city of Venice and I can’t help but look at this city in a whole new perspective.

Have you traveled to Venice? Did you take any group tours or found a place that you will not soon forget? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks for taking this behind the scenes tour of the Clock Tower with me in Venice! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Torre dell ‘Orologio – Venice’s Clock Tower
Piazza San Marco
30124, Venezia, Italy

A visit inside the Venice Clock Tower is only accessible by a third party tour company.

Where to Stay:

The Centaur Hotel
San Marco
Campo Manin 4297/a
30124, Venice (Italy)
Tel. +39 041.5225832

Where to Eat:

Caffe Florian Venezia
Piazza San Marco, 57
30124, Venezia, Italy

I had intended on ordering a coffee, but I knew I had to try the House Specialty – The Bellini. Made from Italian Prosecco and Peach Smoothie, this is one fabulous way to start my morning. I couldn’t pass up the macarons, which are rumored to have also had their start in Venice. I opted for the chocolate, lemon and strawberry, which were absolutely sumptuous.

What to Eat:

Aperol Spritz is made with Prosecco (bubbly) wine, Aperol and a splash of soda.
Bellini’s were invented at Harry’s Bar and is my favorite brunch drink made with Prosecco and peach puree.
Seafood, especially sea bass. Black goby is a local fish from the lagoon and another local dish is fried sardines.
Vegetables from the Rialto Market
Instead of pasta, Venice serves rice and polenta. Rice and peas (risi e bisi) is a very popular dish.
Appetizers such as Venetian meat and cheese (the salami is amazing!) or cicchetti (similar to Spain’s tapas) are small servings that are the right portions. Baccala Mantecato is a topping for cicchetti made of creamed white fish.
Polpetta are deep fried meatballs
For lunch, the locals will order Tramezzino (sandwich) which is triangular in shape.
Dishes served with Nero di Seppia (Squid Ink Sauce) are a delicacy and the squid ink is very dark, so it may come as a surprise when your dish arrives.
Fritto Misto (Fried Fish and Seafood) can also include fried vegetables.
Venetian cookies (Buranelli – from the island of Burano and Sfogliatine) can be purchased at the local bakery.

What to Read:

Donna Leon has a series of crime novels all based in Venice.
The Glassblower of Murano, by Marina Fiorato
A Venetian Affair, by Andrea di Robilant
The City of Falling Angels, by John Berendt
Dead Lagoon, by Michael Dibdin
A Thousand Days in Venice, by Marlena De Biasi

Photo Guide for Venice:

The Bridge of Sighs leads to the waterfront dungeons and is best photographed from the Ponte della Paglia.
Burano is one of the islands within the Veneto was once a community of fishermen. The colorful homes can seen from a distance as the vaparetto approaches. The colors of the island and reflections make memorable photographs.
Piazza San Marco / St. Mark’s Square is the main meeting place in Venice to explore the Doge’s Palace, the Campanile and the Clock.
Pont de l’Academie translates as the Academia Bridge and is the second most popular bridge behind the Rialto Bridge.
The Rialto Bridge at Sunrise and Sunset; Take a trip on the vaparetto along the Grand Canal for some amazing photo opportunities.
Rivi degli Schiavoni is where the gondolas are “parked” with the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore in the background.
St. Mark’s Campanile is the bell tower in the square. Visitors can purchase tickets to ride up to the top for spectacular views of the lagoon and nearby buildings.
If you can visit during the Venice Carnival celebration, you will have many opportunities for some amazing, dramatic photos of people dressed in costume.

The Pulleys and Weights

View of Venice from the Clock Tower

The Roman Numeral Characters

The Arabic Number Characters

A View of Venice from the Clock Tower

The Bell at the Top of the Clock Tower

St. Mark’s Square

Looking out into St. Mark’s Basin from the Clock Tower

The Dome of St. Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Basilica as seen from the Clock Tower

The Facade of St. Mark’s Basilica from the Clock Tower

A Great View of St. Mark’s Square

The Romantic Colors of Burano, Italy

7 August 201919 September 2024

Forty-five minutes later and the ferry from Venice was approaching the island of Burano. Vibrant waterways with pastel colored homes came into view and small fishing boats were docked in front of the homes like cars parked in their driveways. A woman and her child stood at the edge of the dock waving out to the open sea and the blast of a boat’s horn rang out. Local folklore claims that fishermen would paint their homes different colors to identify their family as they departed the island and I could have bet that I had witnessed a legend in the making.

Before the crowded ACTV (ferry) approached the dock, I caught a glimpse of the miniature bridges connecting the waterways and in the distant background, the campanile (bell tower). I looked forward to getting lost among the walkways to purchase some white wine, sample local seafood and shop the lace boutiques in the heart of town.

Reflections of the colorful row houses appeared along the canals as I strolled through the charming isle of Burano. The calmness of the water gave off an identically perfect reflection with only a ripple to disturb the scene. Hardly a tourist was to be seen and I felt as though I had the island all to myself.

Adding to the appeal of Burano were the decorative flowers that seamlessly flowed from their window boxes. The homes were pristine, well maintained and demonstrated the pride of the residents who had lived here. Many generations have made Burano their home which has made this an incredibly tight community.

Twenty-eight hundred residents live on the island of Burano and most of them are farmers and fishermen. A part of the Veneto archipelago, Burano is located on the northern part of the lagoon, near Torcello, known as the birthplace of Venice.

The symbol of Venice, the lion, can be seen throughout the island of Burano. A symbol of strength, the lion is also a representation of St. Mark, one of the apostles of Jesus Christ.

An occasional glimpse through a back street revealed colorful walls and doors of gold, purple and teal. Heading towards the square, I looked forward to exploring the restaurants, gift shops and charming boutiques. The island is most known for its delicate lace and I was hoping to find a beautiful tablecloth to take home as a souvenir.

Within a couple of hours, I noticed the island was more crowded than when I had arrived. Galuppi Square was bustling with tourists who were ready to enjoy a relaxing lunch and spend time enjoying their surroundings. Local restaurants surrounded the perimeter of the square while the tables were conveniently set up in the center of the plaza. The menus offered plenty of fish dishes, including a local favorite, the “risotto de go” made with Arborio rice and the small spiny-finned fish of the lagoon. Pizzerias also offered a variety of pies and slices with a wide range of toppings. For dessert, Burano is known for its Bussola Brunei or Esse (the Venetian butter cookies) which should be purchased at the pasticceria, Carmelina Palmisano.

Walking through the maze of streets and over a a few narrow bridges, I enjoyed the sights of the colored homes for a final time. I thought once again of the fishermen’s legend as I boarded the water taxi for Venice. Standing towards the back of the vaporetto, I stared at the purple home and watched it until it disappeared into the distance.

Have you seen the colorful homes of Burano? I would love to hear about your visit if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for taking this voyage with me to Burano. Happy Travels!

Where to Stay:

The Centaur Hotel
San Marco
Campo Manin 4297/a
30124, Venice (Italy)
Tel. +39 041 5225832

Where to Eat:

Al Gatto Nero Da Ruggero
Fondamenta della Giudecca
Giudecca di Burano 88
30142 Burano, Italy
Telephone: +39 041 730120

The locals claim that this restaurant makes the best Goby Risotto! Their website suggests the homemade noodles with spider crab which sounds absolutely delicious. The prices are inexpensive and the service is superb!

What to Eat:

Aperol Spritz is made with Prosecco (bubbly) wine, Aperol and a splash of soda.
Bellini’s were invented at Harry’s Bar and is my favorite brunch drink made with Prosecco and peach puree.
Seafood, especially sea bass. Black goby is a local fish from the lagoon and another local dish is fried sardines.
Vegetables from the Rialto Market
Instead of pasta, Venice serves rice and polenta. Rice and peas (risi e bisi) is a very popular dish.
Appetizers such as Venetian meat and cheese (the salami is amazing!) or cicchetti (similar to Spain’s tapas) are small servings that are the right portions. Baccala Mantecato is a topping for cicchetti made of creamed white fish.
Polpetta are deep fried meatballs
For lunch, the locals will order Tramezzino (sandwich) which is triangular in shape.
Dishes served with Nero di Seppia (Squid Ink Sauce) are a delicacy and the squid ink is very dark, so it may come as a surprise when your dish arrives.
Fritto Misto (Fried Fish and Seafood) can also include fried vegetables.
Venetian cookies (Buranelli – from the island of Burano and Sfogliatine) can be purchased at the local bakery.

What to Read:

Donna Leon has a series of crime novels all based in Venice.
The Glassblower of Murano, by Marina Fiorato
A Venetian Affair, by Andrea di Robilant
The City of Falling Angels, by John Berendt
Dead Lagoon, by Michael Dibdin
A Thousand Days in Venice, by Marlena De Biasi

Photo Guide for Venice:

The Bridge of Sighs leads to the waterfront dungeons and is best photographed from the Ponte della Paglia.
Burano is one of the islands within the Veneto was once a community of fishermen. The colorful homes can seen from a distance as the vaparetto approaches. The colors of the island and reflections make memorable photographs.
Piazza San Marco / St. Mark’s Square is the main meeting place in Venice to explore the Doge’s Palace, the Campanile and the Clock.
Pont de l’Academie translates as the Academia Bridge and is the second most popular bridge behind the Rialto Bridge.
The Rialto Bridge at Sunrise and Sunset; Take a trip on the vaparetto along the Grand Canal for some amazing photo opportunities.
Rivi degli Schiavoni is where the gondolas are “parked” with the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore in the background.
St. Mark’s Campanile is the bell tower in the square. Visitors can purchase tickets to ride up to the top for spectacular views of the lagoon and nearby buildings.
If you can visit during the Venice Carnival celebration, you will have many opportunities for some amazing, dramatic photos of people dressed in costume.

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