The Timeless Beauty of the Amalfi Coast

4 August 201918 September 2024

Arriving into the port of Naples, I quickly noticed a clear distinction between the ancient city and its modern metropolis. Commercial vessels, cruise ships and fishing boats lined up along the pier as passengers and merchandise came ashore. Several ships transported tourists to the local islands while buses waited at the entrance of the port for day trippers to explore the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii.

The cruise ship, Pullmantur Sovereign, offered several interesting excursions for the day and it was difficult to decide between the Amalfi Coast drive or a day in Capri. I was also interested in Pompeii but in the end, I chose the coastal drive to explore Amalfi, Sorrento and a drive through Positano.

The Amalfi Coast was once a luxury getaway for the Caesars of Rome with its aquamarine seas and picturesque cliffs. The dramatic coastline extends about 67 miles with hairpin turns and dangerous switchbacks while precipitous cliffs vertically plunge into the sea. Charming hillside towns miraculously appear along the route with their colorful, picturesque exteriors.

We were about 45 minutes from our first stop and in the distance I could see the islands of Procida, Capri and Ischia. The morning haze had lifted and glimpses of the spectacular vistas began to appear.

Looking out the window of the bus, I found myself lost in the stunning villages with their picturesque harbors, high cliffs and coves. I imagined renting a sailboat and leisurely coasting along the shoreline in pursuit of an outdoor restaurant or a private beach for an afternoon of rest and relaxation.

I could hardly contain my excitement as the bus passed road signs directing us towards the charming town of Sorrento, known for its production of limoncello.

Once we arrived, we began our walk towards the center of town. Narrow alleyways branched off from the plaza filled with outdoor restaurants and souvenir shops. Fruit stands overflowing with colorful produce and limoncello were popular stops along the thoroughfare. Limoncello, a lemon liquor made from local Femminello St. Teresa lemons, was handed out in plastic cups for tourists to sample before buying.

Overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento’s warm, year-around climate and dramatic views make it a popular vacation spot. Piazza Tasso (Tasso Square) is surrounded by bright pastel buildings and ceramic displays hanging from its exterior walls. A statue of St. Anthony, the patron saint of the town, stands guard within the square. Buses make a quick stop to pick up passengers visiting Marina Piccola or Via Capo. The plaza, vibrant with tourists and locals, is the heart of this coastal town.

I bought a few bottles of limoncello to take back home as gifts and browsed the ceramic pieces which were absolutely stunning. Our next stop brought us to the town of Amalfi, once an important trading port along the Mediterranean.

The winding road of Strada Statale 163 (SS 163) is the connection between Amalfi and Sorrento. Built during the Roman Empire, the roadway is exceptionally narrow with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The passage is carved among the cliffs with tunnels that frame the breathtaking views. Before reaching Amalfi, the road passes through Positano, a picturesque village on a hill, which is the coast’s most photogenic town.

Before we entered the tunnel that led to Amalfi, a traffic jam brought our bus to a complete stop. Our tour guide offered us the chance to take the walkway down to the harbor or we could stay on the bus until the traffic subsided. Unanimously, our group was happy to exit the bus to stretch our legs and start the hike towards the shore.

Amalfi was once a maritime superpower in the 10^th and 11^th centuries with its multiple trade routes rivaling those of Genoa, Pisa and Venice. Once a population of more than 70,000, the laid-back, humble Amalfi of today is home to about 5,000 residents who depend on tourism to survive. With one main street connecting the waterfront to the valley, visitors can easily walk from one end to the other in about 20 minutes.

We reached the tranquil cove where sailboats were anchored and motorboats docked. I was mesmerized by the sun’s rays and the images reflecting off of the sea. Peaceful and calm, I could have stood in this spot for the remainder of the day.

From the harbor, we crossed the street entering the Piazza del Duomo. My eyes were immediately drawn to the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea (Duomodi Amalfi). The basilica, built between 1000 to 1300 AD, is dedicated to the apostle Andrew, the brother of St. Peter. It is believed that the remains of St. Andrew were brought to Amalfi during the Crusades and is buried in the Crypt within the cathedral.

The Boutique Coralli e Cammei is known for its ceramic merchandise and dates back to 1885. On my way out, I enjoyed shopping among the tiles, dishes, flower pots and artwork.

It was time for us to meet at the mossy fountain before boarding the bus. Across the street I caught one last glimpse of the harbor and looked forward to the scenic ride back to the ship.

I imagine Capri is absolutely fabulous and that the Pompeii ruins are incredible, but I could not have picked a better day to have explored the Amalfi Coast.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Amalfi Coast? Which towns were your favorite? I would love to hear about your visit to southern Italy if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my day exploring the Amalfi Coast and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Limonoro
Via San Cesareo 49/53
80067 Sorrento Italy
Telephone: +39 081 878 5348

The go-to shop for purchasing limoncello! Yum!

Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Sant’Andrea)
Via Duca Mansone I
84011 Amalfi, SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 873558

Admission Fee: 3 Euros to visit the church and the museum
Hours: 10AM to 5PM
Scenic View: A lovely view of the piazza from the stairs leading into the basilica.
Amount of Time to Visit: 30 minutes to an hour
Tips for Your Visit: The Cloister of Paradise leads into the museum of the Basilica of the Crucifix and the relics of St. Andrew, the Apostle of Christ.

Where to Stay:

Plaza Sorrento – in Sorrento
Via Fuorimura, 3
80067 Sorrento (Napoli) Italy
Telephone: +39 081 8073942

Hotel Aurora – in Amalfi
Piazzale dei Protontini, 7
84011, Amalfi, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871209

Il San Pietro di Positano – in Positano
Via Laurito, 2
84017 Positano, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 812 080

Where to Eat:

Terrazza Bosquet at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria – in Sorrento
Piazza Tasso, 34
80067, Sorrento, Italy
Telephone: +39 081 877 71 11

It became a joke between my boyfriend, David and I that I had never visited a Michelin star restaurant for dinner, so for a lovely surprise during our stay in Sorrento, David took me to Terrazza Bosquet.

For a starter, we ordered the Saffron Marinated Sea Bass with Smoked Provolone cheese and black truffle and for dinner I ordered the Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Basil, while I encouraged David to order the Tasting Menu (105 Euros) for various options to sample. For wine, we ordered the Malbec Riserva, 2012 Domaine Bousquet. What an incredible experience!

Ristorante Eolo – in Amalfi
Via Pantaleone Comite, 3
84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871241

We had eaten a late lunch, so we decided to enjoy one of the restaurant’s sumptuous desserts and a bottle of wine! We each ordered the chocolate bombe with raspberry sauce with gold shavings. Perfect with our wine, Passopisciaro Passorosso 2015 from Mt. Etna in Sicily.

Da Adolfo – in Positano
Via Laurito 40,
Positano, italy
Telephone: +39 089 875 022

To reach this amazing, historical restaurant, you have to take a five minute boat ride from the port of Positano. The menu is limited, but we LOVED the mussels and Adolfo’s chicken….and of course, the local wine!

What to Eat:

Delizia al limone: A signature dish of the Amalfi Coast, this decadent dessert is made from lemons, limoncello, eggs, sugar and flour.
Goat cheese from Monti Lattari: One of the most exclusive cheeses from this area and is found in most local restaurants.
Limoncello: This after dinner drink is prepared using local lemons.
Mozzarella cheese: Produced from both cow milk and buffalo milk, this mild cheese is best eaten plain at room temperature.
Pasta: The region of Campania is known for making its own extraordinary pasta.
Provolone del Monaco: Another cheese from this region, this semi-hard cheese can be eaten raw
Scialatielli ai frutti de mare: Translated as traditional pasta with seafood, this dish was made famous by local chef Enrico Cosentino in the 1960s.
Spaghetti alla Nerano: Spaghetti noodles cooked with zucchini, provolone and topped with basil. Nerano is the name of the city where this dish was created.
Wines from Tramonti, Ravello and Furore

What to Read:

My Amalfi Coast: Travel Edition by Amanda Tabberer
Gelato Sisterhood on the Amalfi Shore by Chantal Kelly
The House in Amalfi by Elizabeth Adler
Amalfi Blue: Lost & Found in the South of Italy by Lisa Fantino

Photo Guide for the Amalfi Coast:

Spaggia Grande in Positano: Classic photo against the backdrop of colorful cliffside houses…stunning photography.
The Staircase at the Duomo in Amalfi: Pose on the steps for an iconic photo.
Villa Cimbrone in Ravello: The Terrace of Infinity provides views of endless blue with Roman statue in the background.
The Streets of Vietri sul Mare: Capture the charm of this colorful waterfront village.
The Fjords in Furore: Pose against the beautiful scenery of the cove and the amazing bridge in the background.
The Beach in Atrani: Pink buildings provide the perfect contrast with the blue umbrellas on the beach.
Colorful Coastal Fruit: Stop along the charming seaside towns and their fruit stands for colorful photos.

A Fountain in Amalfi

Hartman Rock Garden, A Fine Example of Folk Art Restoration

20 October 201616 September 2024

Approaching the residential house on the corner of Russell and McCain, Hartman Rock Garden could easily be missed if it wasn’t for the welcome signs. I found a parking spot nearby and began to walk towards the left side of the house. I entered towards the back through a white picket fence where I found a guide book and a map.

Ben Hartman began his work on the Hartman Rock Garden during the Great Depression when he was laid off from his job at the age of forty-eight. Over the next twelve years, he continued to add on to his garden by constructing over fifty projects including famous monuments and figurines.

I skimmed through the booklet to learn more about about Harry George “Ben” Hartman, the man behind the artwork and noticed the self-guided walking tour. I was so excited to start my visit to this unique little garden and to learn about each of the lovely structures Ben had created.

I left a donation, reviewed the guide and began the walking tour at The Fishing Pond towards the center of the yard. This was the first project of Hartman’s that started this “garden of love” known today as the Hartman Rock Garden.

Ben loved nursery rhymes, so the Rose Basket was filled with figurines recreating some of the most well-known nursery rhymes: Jack & Jill, The Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe and Peter, Peter Pumpkin Eater. These small delicate figures made of stone are available for viewing only during special events and behind the scenes tours.

In addition to fairy-tale figurines, Mr. Hartman reproduced some of the local landmarks of his hometown of Springfield, Ohio. Fascinated by historical structures from all over the world, he re-created several of these as well. The Cathedral is the largest project completed by Hartman, standing 14 feet tall. Replicating the spectacular cathedrals of Italy, inside are niches showcasing several Madonna figurines.

Because Mr. Hartman also took an interest in American History, there were a few designs based on several historic buildings and events that took place throughout the United States. Mount Vernon, the childhood home of the country’s first president, George Washington was beautifully created with stately columns and multiple windows. Peeking through the windows, I could see small, period figurines that would have coincided with this historical period.

Hartman gathered small stones on his property to create the structures of George Washington’s Valley Forge. The delicate stonework and the dormers shaped into the concrete roof showed Hartman’s attention to detail as well as his love for creating these amazing pieces of art.

A continuation of the Valley Forge display showcases the smaller lodging areas for sleeping. One of the details that Mr. Hartman included were the icicles that clung to the rooftops of the miniature buildings. I also noticed the small, weathered handwritten cards identifying some of the structures. Unfortunately they were difficult to read, so I made my next stop at Custer’s Last Stand.

I was soon approaching my favorite part of the garden known as The Castle. Rising twelve feet high, this masterpiece is surrounded by a moat and equipped with a working drawbridge. This medieval fortress was created by Hartman out of mixed stone, concrete and grey dolostone. With 107 windows and 100,000 stones, it took him only fourteen days to build.

With a pathway of animal pairs making their way to the entrance of this large boat, there was no mistaking this was Noah’s Ark. The recreation was perfect to the last detail with a pair of doves on the top of its roof and fourteen pairs of metallic animals making their way to the ark’s entrance. I absolutely adored this rendition of one of my favorite Bible stories.

From Death Valley to the Oregon Trail, even Hoover Dam was unmistakable.

The White House, made from concrete and granite, was another lovely tribute to American History.

Adding a little color to the collection is Philadelphia’s Independence Hall. Also known as Freedom Hall, this meticulous miniature was built from red brick.

It is said that the Tree of Life was one of Ben Hartman’s favorite works and is considered one of his most impressive. The tree symbolizes country, school and church, which Hartman felt were the most important things in a man’s life. There are close to 20,000 stones used to create this sacred tree.

Created around 1932, a colorful planter depicts two Bible stories. With flowers to the left, the figurines to the right represent both Daniel in the Lion’s Den atop the structure and the Hebrew Children in the Fiery Furnace below.

Based on his Christian faith, Hartman designed a beautiful nativity, the place where Jesus was born, Calvary Hill where Jesus was crucified and the empty tomb where Jesus would rise from the dead.

My last stop was to the Wishing Well made of concrete, dolostone, granite and a mix of stones. Beneath the cover was an old wooden bucket, so I made a wish and placed a few coins inside.

There are close to fifty structures on display at Hartman Rock Garden. Each unique, they held a special place in Ben’s heart. Today the garden is considered a work of “in situ folk art” and thousands of visitors come from all over the world to admire the unique works of Harry George “Ben” Hartman. You may be so inspired to create a beautiful garden for yourself.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Hartman Rock Garden in Springfield, Ohio? I would love to hear about your time spent here if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Hartman Rock Garden
1905 Russell Avenue
Springfield, Ohio 45506
Email: info@hartmanrockgarden.org

Admission Fee: Free but a $2 per person donation is appreciated.
Hours: Open daily, 364 days, from dusk until dawn
Amenities: Self-guided tours
Length of Visit: 1 hour
Tips for Your Visit: Pick up a flyer on the property for the self-guided tour. Directions: Traveling south down South Yellow Springs Street leaving downtown Springfield, you will pass John Street and will see McCain Avenue to your right. Turn onto McCain and within a couple of blocks there is a white picket fence which was the home of the Hartmans.

Where to Stay:

Courtyard by Marriott Downtown
100 South Fountain Avenue
Springfield, OH 45502
Telephone; 937 322 3600

Where to Eat:

Seasons Bistro and Grille
28 South Limestone Street
Springfield, Ohio 45502
Telephone: 937 521 1200

My favorite item on the menu is the Bibimbap, a Korean rice bowl with marinated beef strips and seasonal vegetables served over white rice. Topped with a fried egg and Korean chili paste.

Another seasonal favorite that is offered on a limited basis is their grilled Chilean sea bass!

One of my favorite views of The Castle

John Brown’s Fort

The Heart Man is the symbol of the garden. It is made from concrete, granite and mirrored glass.

The Oregon Trail

Lincoln’s Cabin

Lincoln’s Tomb