Strolling Through Old San Juan, Puerto Rico (Part 2)

12 March 201817 September 2024

I picked up a couple of bottles of water from a nearby refreshment stand to hold me over until lunch. The next stop on my walking tour included the Cementerio de San Juan. Located on the north side of the fort, this beautifully maintained cemetery is the resting place of the island’s earliest settlers. Behind me on the opposite side of the fort, was the bright purple Galeria Nacional (National Gallery). Once a Dominical convent, the museum houses Puerto Rican artwork spanning over the last few centuries. In addition to hosting various exhibits, the works of famous Puerto Rican artists such as Jose Campeche and Francisco Oller are on permanent display.

A beautiful park sits across El Morro with its central fountain and sculpture known as the Plaza de Ballaja. The bronze statue of three figures entwined (two men and one woman), represents Puerto Rico’s past, present and future.

Passing the square is the Museo de las Americas. Built in 1854, it served as a military barracks with officer’s quarters, warehouses, prison cells and stables. The cuartel, with its balconies and arches, stands three stories and surrounds a courtyard with large gates at each end. The museum on the second floor houses three permanent exhibits as well as rotating displays throughout the year.

At the end of San Sebastian Street stood Museo Casa Blanca to my right. Although the building was closed, there were informational placards that explained that this home was built for Puerto Rico’s first governor Juan Ponce de Leon (and founder of the Fountain of Youth) in 1524. Unfortunately, de Leon had died before it was completed. With the death of de Leon, the home was passed down to his family who lived here for over 250 years until it became a military base in 1966. The Casa Blanca opened to the public as an historical museum with artifacts spanning from the 16^th to 20^th centuries. Visitors can stroll the Alhambra-style courtyard with several fountains and gaze out into the ocean from its balconies.

I passed through Calle Sol with its colorful houses and cobblestone streets and realized the road had ended. I just happened to notice a walkway to my left sloping towards the ocean where I found another dead end with spectacular views. Making a left, I soon realized I was walking along the top of the fort.

I soon reached the La Rogativa, a statue commemorating an important victory for San Juan against a group of British invaders. The four figures include the bishop of San Juan and three women carrying torches. Legend claims that when British Lieutenant Abercromby was preparing to attack the city in 1797, the women crossed through the plaza with candles, which duped the lieutenant into thinking that they were outnumbered and Abercromby withdrew his fleet. The women were credited for having saved the city.

My stroll continued through Cristo Street, known for its shops. At the end of the street is the Governor’s Residence, La Fortaleza, known as the El Palacio de Santa Catalina. Originally built as a fortress, it was later remodeled and has been the home of San Juan’s governor for over 300 years. Guarded by iron gates, this gorgeous mansion was completed in 1533.

Down Cristo Street, I found the Capilla del Cristo, the Chapel of Christ. Visiting the church, I wanted to learn more about the little chapel and the “miraculous happening [that] took place at this site”.

Inside, the altar is made of thousands of silver “promesas”. Promesas, translated as promises, are offerings that are given in hopes that a miracle will happen. Legend states that a father built the chapel to God to thank Him for saving his son who had survived an unusual accident when he and his horse fell over the wall.

Next to the church is the Parque de las Palomas, the Pigeon Park, which was created to protect the pigeon population in San Juan. There are small niches carved out of the rocky wall so that the pigeons can nest here (condos for pigeons…and look at their scenic view of Bahia de San Juan).

I was near my hotel so I found a small bar on my way called Marilyn’s Place. An homage to actress Marilyn Monroe, I took a seat inside and ordered the mango daiquiri. With limited seating outdoors, I settled for a comfortable seat at the bar, surrounded by Marilyn memorabilia. My appetite was beginning to grow and I could not stop thinking about the mofongo. After a couple of drinks, I decided to return to Fortaleza Street where there were several more restaurant options from which I could choose.

I found another location to try the Mofongo (my new food obsession) called the Café El Punto Restaurant. On the menu, the mofongo comes with a side of avocado, served with beans, rice and cooked plantains. To start, I ordered the caprese salad appetizer.

It was a busy day before I boarded the cruise ship. I was ready to check out of the hotel and and hauled my luggage down to the pier. I noted that I would take a taxi after the cruise ended to avoid rolling my bag across the cobblestone.

It was so nice to unload my belongings and relax aboard the Carnival Liberty, watching the ship pull away from the shore.

If you have been to San Juan, Puerto Rico, what has been you most memorable moment? If you are planning to visit the city, what would you want to see or do? I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks for reading about my time in San Juan, Puerto Rico and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Castillo San Felipe del Morro
Calle Norzagaray
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Telephone: 787 729 6960

Admission Fee: $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 6PM. Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Amenities: Gift shop and restrooms
Scenic Views: Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
Length of Visit: 2 – 3 hours
Tips for Your Visit: There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises. Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water. (Carts outside sell water). Don’t miss the Dungeon at Castillo San Cristobel!

Cementerio Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis
Near the Castillo San Felipe del Morro Fort

Open 24/7; Free Admission

Galeria Nacional
Calle Del Cristo
San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Telephone: 787 724 0700

At the time of this posting, the museum had closed.

Casa Blanca
1 Calle San Sebastian
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00926
Telephone: 787 725 1454

Admission Fee: $5 for the tour and a visit of the house; $3 for seniors, students and children). The gardens are free to explore.
Hours: Open Tuesday through Sunday from 9AM to Noon, reopening from 1PM to 4PM. The gardens are opened daily from 9AM to 4PM.
Amenities: Wedding venue
Scenic Views: The beauty of the gardens is quite scenic. Visit the living room for gorgeous views of the ocean from its balconies.
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Guided tours are offered on occasion and are not consistently scheduled. You may want to call ahead to inquire about a guided tour. The home may be closed on the weekends if a wedding is scheduled.

Chapel of Christ the Savior
151 Calle del Cristo
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00902
Telephone: 787 722 0861

Admission Fee: Free, donations welcome
Hours: The hours of operation are random, yet you can look inside of the gate.
Scenic Views: Next to the cathedral are gorgeous views of the coast
Length of Visit: Less than 1 hour
Tips for Your Visit: Next to the cathedral is a home for pigeons, so beware of them flying above you!

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas
San Jose Street 202
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Phone: 866 599 6674

Amenities: Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

*Hotel was prepaid costing $150 per night. We arranged for a queen sized bed, room without a window, non-smoking and guaranteed late arrival.

Where to Eat:

Café Colao
Calle Marina, San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Phone: 787 725 4139

Cute little coffee shop down by the Port of Puerto Rico

What to Eat:

MOFONGO! This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan. Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
Pastelon: San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.

Where to Drink:

Marilyn’s Place
100 Calle San Francisco
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901

What to Read:

The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
The House on the Lagoon by Rosario Ferre
Simone by Eduardo Lalo
Mundo Cruel by Luis Negron
La Llamarada by Enrique Laguerre
Song of the Simple Truth by Julia de Burgos

Photo Guide for San Juan, Puerto Rico

La Perla in Old San Juan for its colorful umbrellas
The cobblestone streets and colorful buildings of Old San Juan
The Forts in Old San Juan

Disclosure: Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

Galeria Nacional

Calle Sol

Capilla del Cristo

Photos of San Juan from the Carnival Liberty at night

A Disney Cruise Ship Leaving San Juan, Puerto Rico’s Port

Looking back at Carnival’s Cruise ship Dock in San Juan, PR

Saying Goodbye to San Juan Puerto Rico

Leaving Behind Old San Juan for the Island of St. Thomas!

Passing the Walls of the Fort in Old San Juan, PR

A Day of Castillos in San Juan, Puerto Rico

12 February 201817 September 2024

I climbed up to the higher decks of the Carnival Liberty to take in the scenic view of San Juan. It was a sad morning as our cruise journey had come to an end, but Dave and I had a couple of days to explore the port and recoup from our vacation before traveling home to Ohio.

Retrieving our luggage, we stood at the edge of the dock. Realizing realized our walk was an uphill climb over rugged ballasts, we decided to call a taxi. For an economical fare of $10, we were provided door-to-door service to the Hotel Plaza Las Armas within minutes arriving with our luggage by 11.

After checking into the hotel, we were excited to board the free shuttle to Castillo de San Felipe del Morro, known as El Morro. We noticed that there were two separate shuttles and took a chance by boarding the green one. Although it was a lovely ride through town, we agreed it was the white trolley we should have taken, that drops off passengers to El Morro.

It took us a couple of hours to tour the fort and by the time we had finished we were both hungry and tired. By now it was close to 2 in the afternoon so we finished checking into the hotel and strolled over to Barrachina’s for mofongo. With full stomachs and heavy eyes, we agreed that a well deserved nap would be best before continuing our adventure.

I was surprised to find a burst of energy as we approached the hotel and decided to go it alone. According to the front desk, San Cristobel wasn’t a far walk and the attendant pointed me towards Columbus Square. I spent some time admiring the statue of Columbus and the lovely fountain at the entrance, celebrating the life of the explorer.

Columbus claimed Puerto Rico for Spain in 1493. The island measures 100 miles long and 32 miles wide and is a tropical paradise boasting gorgeous beaches, an intriguing rain forest and rugged mountains. I climbed the stairs to admire the commemorative statue of the Columbus and look out into the horizon for stunning views before continuing my way towards the fort.

I passed through Columbus Square and within minutes, found myself climbing a very steep hill to the entrance. Before me was the Castillo San Cristobal where a ramp deposited me at the admissions desk. I purchased my ticket and began exploring the second level of the fort, one of my favorite locations. I admired the scenic views before descending to the lower levels where I found an interesting network of tunnels. I spent a couple of hours here, learning about the soldier’s life on the fort before heading back towards the hotel. For more details about my adventure, you can read about my tour by reading my blog post, “Castillo San Cristobal”.

Retracing my steps, I once again reached Columbus Square. Crossing the street, I could hear the faint sound of sirens and police cars. Soon, a group of cyclists rounded the corner with a swish and I could feel the burst of air that followed after them. Impressed with the number of participants in the race, I sat on the stairs to wait for the crowd to dissipate.

When I arrived back to the hotel, Dave and I agreed that could put off eating for a couple of hours. In the spirit of visiting the Caribbean, we headed back to Marilyn’s Place for a couple of drinks before cashing out a searching for a restaurant. .

Taking our time, we wanted to find a cozy table with a view, most preferably of the coast. About ten minutes into the walk, we found a set of tables and chairs along the wall of the fort with spectacular views. Not yet ready for food, we ordered a couple of pina coladas. It was our last evening to walk along the promenade and the port before returning to our room. Blessed with perfect island temperatures and breathtaking views, it was just another gorgeous day in paradise!

How do you like to wind down your vacation? Do you plan an extra day to take it easy? I would love to hear your advice on the best way to recuperate from your holiday, so please leave a comment below! Many thanks for reading about our last day in San Juan! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro
501 Calle Norzagaray
San Juan, PR 00901
Telephone: 787 729 6960

Admission Fee: $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 6PM. Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Amenities: Gift shop and restrooms
Scenic Views: Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
Length of Visit: 2 – 3 hours
Tips for Your Visit: There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises. Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water. (Carts outside sell water).

Castillo San Cristobel
San Juan, PR 00901
Telephone: 787 449 4049

Admission Fee: $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 6PM. Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Amenities: Gift shop and restrooms
Scenic Views: Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
Length of Visit: 2 – 3 hours
Tips for Your Visit: There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises. Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water. (Carts outside sell water). Don’t miss the Dungeon at Castillo San Cristobel!

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas
San Jose Street 202
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Phone: 866 599 6674

Amenities: Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

*Hotel was prepaid costing $150 per night. We arranged for a queen sized bed, room without a window, non-smoking and guaranteed late arrival.

Where to Eat:

Restaurant Barrachina
Fortaleza Street 104
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Phone: 787 721 5852

*Order the pina colada (birthplace of the drink) and the chicken mofongo! The restaurant displays a copy of the Discovery Map of Puerto Rico which is what we used to get around. There are detailed maps of Old San Juan, the Condado as well as Isla Verde.

Marilyn’s Place
100 Calle San Francisco
San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Telephone: 787 724 0444

What to Eat:

MOFONGO! This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan. Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
Pastelon: San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.

What to Read:

The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
The House on the Lagoon by Rosario Ferre
Simone by Eduardo Lalo
Mundo Cruel by Luis Negron
La Llamarada by Enrique Laguerre
Song of the Simple Truth by Julia de Burgos

Photo Guide for San Juan, Puerto Rico

La Perla in Old San Juan for its colorful umbrellas
The cobblestone streets and colorful buildings of Old San Juan
The Forts in Old San Juan

Welcome to Sunny San Juan, Puerto Rico!

22 January 201816 September 2024

It was a snowy winter in Ohio and I was determined to find an escape from the cold and dreary. Looking for the perfect vacation, I realized that a cruise out of Puerto Rico would be the perfect, affordable option without much planning. Asking a friend to join, within days we were boarding an early morning flight scheduled to arrive in San Juan at 4PM Atlantic Time. Leaving a foot of snow behind, we were on our way to the Caribbean islands for a sun-drenched, relaxing getaway. Located about 1000 miles off of the coast of Florida, Americans are not required a passport as the island is an unincorporated territory of the United States.

Booking an early morning flight ensured that if there are any delays, there would be additional flights following. And of course, leaving early in the morning would give us an additional full day to explore San Juan.

Celebrating with a couple of Bloody Marys and a short nap, we landed a few minutes ahead of schedule and collected our luggage.

The smell of the salty air and humidity greeted us as we exited the airport. A short taxi ride took twenty minutes to the Hotel Plaza de las Armas, located in the heart of Old San Juan. Securing a reservation with accommodations in the center of the city allowed us to walk to all of the top attractions. We were not only close to all of the action in the historical city but in close proximity to the cruise ship port as well.

After unloading our luggage, and having only had a couple of Bloody Marys from the flight, finding a restaurant was our top priority. Checking in with the front desk, the young attendant suggested that we try La Barrachina for the Comida criolla (local Puerto Rican faire) and added that it was the home of the Pina Colada. Not a bad way to kick off our sunny escape.

Reaching the restaurant within minutes, we noticed the placard boasting La Barrachina’s claim to fame for inventing the Pina Colada as we gave our name to the hostess. We became spellbound by the smell of the Caribbean spices coming from the kitchen and looked over the menu to browse the local cuisine.

After a few squawks from the parrot in the back of the restaurant, we were seated in an enclosed, air-conditioned space which was starting to fill up on a Saturday night. Our server arrived quickly, took our drink order and provided a list of house specialties and recommendations.

Happy hour prices for the Pina Colada included two for the price of one. What’s not to love about a frothy, fruity drink with a double shot of rum? No doubt the rum comes from a local distillery, most likely from the local Bacardi factory, the largest producer of this sugar cane based libation. Cheers to Don Ramon and his tropical invention.

Deciding what to order was becoming more of a challenge than we had thought with so many options. Our waiter was eager to explain some of the items on the menu starting with the mofongo, which is cooked meat or vegetables poured over a plantain based mash seasoned with garlic, spices and broth. Dave decided on the chicken mofongo while I ordered the grilled grouper, adding a beer and another Pina colada to our bill.

Just finishing our drinks, we could smell the delicious garlic and spices from our meals before they reached the table. My grouper was perfectly prepared, but one taste of the mofongo and I was addicted. My obsession with this Puerto Rican dish would continue over the next couple of days. Is it possible that they serve this at breakfast, lunch and dinner?

The sun had already set as we left the restaurant and we ended the evening with a romantic stroll down the Paseo de la Princesa, the esplanade outside of the city walls. Known for its food stands and artisans, this beautiful 19^th century walkway is lined with stately trees, antique streetlamps, ending at the Atlantic Ocean. We stood by the Raices Fountain while watching the moonlight’s glow reflecting on the sea. Retracing our steps along the promenade, we decided to stop for one more drink at the nearby beach bar before turning in for the night. It was a beautiful, relaxing start to our first day of vacation and we had tired ourselves enough to guarantee a great night’s sleep.

Have you had the pleasure of visiting Old San Juan in Puerto Rico? Do you have a favorite dining location or local food you would like to recommend? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my first day in Old San Juan and wishing you many Happy Travels!

Preparing for Puerto Rico:

Contact and Pre-Vacation Information: For more information about Puerto Rico, contact their website at www.seepuertorico.com. I would suggest that you request some information prior to your visit, such as the Que Pasa magazine. I found my walking tour on www.puertoricodaytrips.com.

When to Go: Dave and I booked our trip for the end of January and found a great price for our flight on Southwest! The cruise rate was reasonable and so were our hotel expenses, highly unusual for this time of the year. Off-season is considered September – November and mid-March to June.

Airlines:

Southwest Airlines
Phone: 1 800 435 9792
Southwest now flies to the Caribbean!!

Flights were $400 per person from Columbus, Ohio to San Juan, Puerto Rico with a small stop in Orlando

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas
San Jose Street 202
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Phone: 866 599 6674

Amenities: Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

*Hotel was prepaid costing $150 per night. We arranged for a queen sized bed, room without a window, non-smoking and guaranteed late arrival.

Where to Eat:

Restaurant Barrachina
Fortaleza Street 104
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Phone: 787 721 5852
*Order the pina colada (birthplace of the drink) and the chicken mofongo! The restaurant displays a copy of the Discovery Map of Puerto Rico which is what we used to get around. There are detailed maps of Old San Juan, the Condado as well as Isla Verde.

The view from our inside table at Restaurant Barrachina. It would have been fantastic to eat outside, but there was no breeze in the courtyard and we decided upon air conditioning. The walls were painted in bright tropical colors with abstract artwork adding more culture. The tables were simply decorated with paper table covers over white linen cloths. To add to the ambiance, there were candles lit in the center.