Ephesus, Turkey and the Library of Celsius

22 August 202323 September 2024

The sun shone so warmly on my face as the ship approached the cruise port of Kusadasi. The early brilliance casted shadows upon the hills that dominate the horizon while the dimness crowded out the sight of the fort that lie ahead. Kusadasi is the perfect starting point for visiting some of the most famous historical cities of Turkey. From here I will be taking a shore excursion into Ephesus, where I will have the opportunity to explore a stop on Paul’s journey to spread the gospel of Christianity. So excited to be walking in his footsteps.

The Ephesians believed that Ephesia, the beautiful Amazonian queen, founded their city. The Amazons were considered descendants of the god of war, and thought to have been ferocious warriors. The temple of Hadrian tells of a second theory which credits Androklos as its founder and yet a third ideal states that the inhabitants of nearby Halikarnassus (today’s Bodrum) should be honored as the city’s organizers.

It was a quick bus ride and we arrived at the archaeological site, quickly making our way to the start of our early morning. There are two entrances leading into Ephesus; one is the Harbor Gate, and the other is the Magnesian Gate, which is where most guides begin their tours. The field of ruins that lay ahead of us is made of various fragments and cylindrical features. From where we were standing, we could see the Baths of the State Agora to the right which is an extension of the Agora, or shopping plaza, to the left.

The archaeological finds on this site date back to the 14th and 15th century BC. Only 4 – 5 % of the site has been excavated. Some of these items are housed in the Museum of Ephesus.

The Agora was one of the most important public meeting places during the Roman Empire. It was an open area that combined the civic center, administrative buildings and local market. There is a marble road that leads into the Agora from the entrance from where we are standing. The beautifully restored walkway brought us close to the architecture of the baths and we could closely see the various stone and archways created in this once thriving port town.

According to our tour guide, visitors and residents entering Ephesus by land would have first encountered the Agora. The primary boardwalk known as the Stoa Basileios (The Royal Walk) passed through the city’s most important structures and attractions. This road also provided access to the town’s odeon, which is similar to the theaters and music halls of today.

Passing the Agora we came upon the small town hall which was the office of the local government dignitary. Known as the Prytaneion, it was also used to host banquets for honored guests. In the center of the hall, researchers believed that there was an altar dedicated to the goddess, Hestia. Within proximity to the Prytaneion were additional statues that represented Artemis and were uncovered during the excavation of this well-preserved archaeological site.

Further off into the distance from the Prytaneion are the remains of the Roman Emperor’s Temple of Domitian. This is a two story building where displayed on the second level are the caryatids. These statues were considered a representation of the barbarian peoples that Rome had once conquered during the height of its Empire. I love the detail of these statues and find them to be some of the most well preserved artifacts along our walking tour.

We began making our descent towards a line of columns that represented Curates (Kouretes) Street, which runs between the Library of Celsius and Domitian Street. . We approached the Temple of Hadrian to our right and immediately noticed the empty pedestals that stood in front of the temple. Those men that could afford to have their busts made could also exhibit them in this area to be recognized, in a way to flatter themselves. Hadrian’s Temple was so exquisite that I wondered how it must have appeared in the height of Ephesus’ civilization.

Strolling down Curates Street, we came upon the Hercules (Heracles-Greek) Gate, which separates the uptown from the downtown area of Ephesus. It is a fascinating representation of the local god, Hercules who signified masculinity and strength. Many believed that this triumphal arch was built in the 2^nd century AD but was relocated here two centuries later.

The Fountain of Trajan (Trainus) is also located on Curates Street and is one of my favorite structures in Ephesus. What draws me to this building is the intricate artwork of its sculpted pillars as well as the fountain that once held a statue of the Emperor Trajan.

Across the street from the fountain are some of the most lavish homes of the elite Ephesians. The astounding floor tiles remain intact and display the wealth of the families that once lived here. Directly behind these Terrace Homes is a covered area where artifacts and additional research is being conducted. There is an additional charge to visit this small museum where audio recordings escort visitors through amazing frescoes, mosaics, and fountains that rival those of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The tour of Ephesus is not without its elements of surprise. We arrived at a small area where slabs of marble line up against the wall and learned that they were used as public latrines. There are about forty seats, sitting side-by-side. Our guide explained that the public restrooms were important for conducting business between the men.
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The long awaited moment arrived as the Library of Celsus appeared in the distance. A grand structure rising from the ruins, this large two-story structure towered over us as we approached its stairway. The preservation of the library is extraordinary and the details of this building that has been so elegantly preserved.

The glorious marble columns framed the four statues of the library’s façade. Each figure represented the human characteristics of wisdom, excellence, judgment and expertise. It was customary that families of financial means and power would establish monuments or heroons to honor their loved ones. The Library of Celsus was a dedication to Julius Celsus Polemeanus by his son, erected in the early 2^nd century AD.

Inside of the Library of Celsus, we were met with a surprisingly simple structure that contrasted the splendid façade of the building’s exterior. In the ancient world, it was one of the largest libraries housing upwards to 15,000 scrolls. Along the inner walls were recesses that contained rolled manuscripts. This is also the burial place of Celsus, whose vault is located below the ground floor on the north side of the building.

I love the history of large cities such as Ephesus, especially those stories that involve scandal and intrigue. Our tour guide shows us an unassuming tunnel which was, according to legend, a secret passageway. It was said that the men of Ephesus would tell their wives that they were going to the library when in fact they would escape into the local brothel. There is some debate to this theory as the attitude towards sexuality was quite open during this time, but it still makes for a great story.

There were three arches that led out towards the Agora and Grand Theater of Ephesus called the Gates of Mazaeus and Mitridades, named after the slaves that built them. With their prominent Roman style architecture, the gates were built as a dedication to Emperor Augustus. Statues of his family could be seen towering above the arches on the attica, while a relief of the Hecate, the god of crossroads was prominent on the outer walls of the structure. Some sources refer to an inscription that was written on the gates which curses “those that piss here”. I wonder how well that deterred the locals.

Standing in the archway of the gate, I looked out into the Agora where shops once lined the courtyard and stalls were set up in the infield. I imagined the bustling square with the smell of food, domestic animals and sweating bodies crowding into the shopping plaza to make their purchases. This was once one of the most important trading centers in all of Ephesus.

Located just off of the Agora is The Great Theater. At the height of Ephesus’ prosperity, it was one of the largest theaters in the Roman-Greco world.

Following the death of Jesus, His apostles left Jerusalem to spread Christianity to the world. St. John arrived in Ephesus with Mary, the mother of Jesus, somewhere between 37 to 48 AD. John is credited for establishing the first Christian community here. John would later be exiled to Patmos, spending his remaining years on the Greek island.

St. Paul put Ephesus on the map when he arrived around 54 AD, staying for nearly three and a half years and wrote his letters here, including a letter to the Ephesian Christians. Ephesus was also included in his missionary tour and the story of his visit is detailed in the Bible, making it a stop for Christian pilgrimages as well.

Today it is one of the most visited by Christians around the world.

Viewing the theater from below is astounding, but I knew that if I climbed to the top, I would have an extraordinary view of the former harbor and surrounding area. Climbing up the rows of seats, I waited until I reached the top before turning around. Here I was rewarded with a dramatic, overwhelming view of the theater, hills and Harbor Street leading away from the city.

Through all of its splendor, I still find it somewhat difficult to imagine this lively, prosperous city of Ephesus regardless of its extraordinary restoration. This site holds not only historical significance, but biblical and archaeological importance as well. Researchers continue to excavate the city of Ephesus which provides a doorway into the lives of those that once lived here. I look forward to the time when I can return and learn what interesting facts they uncover.

Are you a fan of archaeological sites? What draws you to them? I would love to hear which historical locations you find interesting and inspiring if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks for reading about my fascinating journey to Ephesus and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ephesus Archaeological Site
Ataturk Mh
Ugur Mumcu Sevgi Yolu
35920 Selcuk/Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 444 MUZE (6893)

Admission Fee: 60 Turkish Lira; children 12 and under is free of charge.
Hours: The museum is open April – October from 8AM to 7PM, and November 1 – April 15 from 8AM to 5PM
Amenities: Pre-purchase of ticket online, The Terrace Homes (additional cost)
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the Celsus Library and scenes of the surrounding are are spectacular from the arena
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as there is limited cover from the sun. One can purchase tickets ahead of time. Private tours can also be purchased at the door. Wear comfortable shoes for walking. You will notice several cats that live at the site.

Where to Stay:

Livia Hotel Ephesus
Ataturk Mah. 1045 Sok. No. 25
Izmir, 39520, Selcuk, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 892 92 99

Where to Eat:

Artemis Restaurant
Sirince Mahallesi, Sehit Yuksel
Ozulku Caddesi No. 7
35920, Sirince, Selcuk, Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 898 32 40

I absolutely love the property surrounding the restaurant, near olive groves and vineyards. The 19th century stone building was once a village school

What to Eat:

- Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
- Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
- Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
- Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
- Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
- Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
- Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
- Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
- Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
- Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

The Ephesus Scroll by Ben Chenoweth
Burning of the Books at Ephesus by Sir James Thornhill
Ancient Ephesus: The History and Legacy of One of Antiquity’s Greatest Cities by Charles River Editors

Photo Guide for Ancient Ephesus:

The Facade of the Celsus Library
View from the Amphitheater

Another view of the Grand Theater and Harbor Street, Ephesus

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

The Site of Olympia and its Role in the Olympic Games

15 May 20233 May 2025

Watching the Olympic Games as I child, I always admired watching the gymnasts during the Summer Games and favored the ice skating competition in the winter. As a family, we would cheer on our favorite contenders and anxiously await the results of the victor, much similar to the ancient games that first took place in the city of Olympia, Greece.

Olympia is a popular day trip from the port of Katakalon, a cruise ship port in the Peloponnese district of Greece. Entering the location of the original Olympic Games, we had the opportunity to watch archaeologists continue their work in uncovering the gymnasium site of these ancient ruins.

It is amazing to consider that the first Olympic Games began in 776 BC during the Bronze Age as a religious festival in honor of the Greek mythical god, Zeus. Ironically, just off into the distance is Kronos Hill, the location which the Greeks consider to be the birthplace of Zeus. According to the Greek mythology, Zeus is the god of the sky, lightning and thunder, law, order and justice.

The site of Olympia is a compound with numerous buildings in association with the competitive games. We strolled past the Prytaneion, the building for which the presiding officers of the game would welcome the competitors. Athletes from miles away would journey to this location to compete, which was an honor not only to themselves, but to the villages for which they were representing.

Because the Olympic Games took place over several days, the athletes would arrive weeks prior to the competition for training. It is for this reason that the Gymnasium was built as temporary lodging for the competitors until after the games were completed.

A dedicated training area and separate living quarters from all other athletes were built for the wrestlers, boxers and long jumpers called the Palaistra. It was here were the pankratiasts would train and was an event where these “all In” fighters would fight to the death, a popular event of the Olympics and similar to the Ultimate Fighting Championships of today.

Our next stop was a visit to Pheidias’ workshop and it was one of my favorite locations on the site. Phieidias was the great artist known for building the 40 foot gold statue of Zeus, housed in the temple’s inner room. A Byzantine church was built over this site, but when excavations were conducted in this location, there was a cup that was excavated with the notation, “I belong to Pheidias”. The archaeological items from his workshop are located in the museum, a short walking distance from the ancient ruins.

From Pheidias’ workshop we could see an enormous structure with one column which has been identified as the temple to Zeus. He was the king of all Greek gods as well as the patron of the Olympic Games. It was the largest of the Greek temples during its time, with 34 colossal Doric columns, measuring 6 stories high. A replica of the temple and photo of the Statue of Zeus is located in the archaeological museum.

Throughout the Olympic site there were various pedestals for which statues were displayed. A lone standing pillar measuring 29 feet tall once supported the goddess of Nike, who represents victory. The column remains but the statue was moved to the archaeological museum to protect it from the environment.

Winning the Olympic Games was a big deal in Greece and winning three times elevated the athletes to god status. Various columns were erected to display statues of these newly appointed gods. The winners would also be showered with gifts back home and songs would be written about them.

Unfortunately for the losers, public humiliation was just as intense. It was said that many would go into hiding to escape from the embarrassment of facing their friends, family and fellow countrymen.

What I found interesting at Olympia was, in addition to honoring the winners of the games, the cheaters were publicly called-out with their own displays. There are a total of sixteen “Bases of Zanes” which were inscribed with the name of the cheater and their offense. It was intended to remain here for all to see for generations and was a way to humiliate the families as well as the offender. It was said that people would spit on the stones as they entered the stadium. Some of the offenses included the use of forbidden herbs, drinking of animals blood, taking bribes, and quitting the games.

Prior to entering the stadium, there was a terrace where the Row of Treasuries was located. This building housed the expensive offerings that were collected from the spectators of the Olympic Games and the currency of these items were used to support the maintenance of the grounds and for building additional structures.

Another feature located up on the hill were the remains of the Nymphaeum. This impressive fountain served as an oasis to the visitors and athletes at the Olympic Games. Inside of the Nymphaeum was a statue of a bull, which can be viewed at the Olympia Archaeological Museum.

Soon, we found ourselves nearing the location where the Olympic foot races took place and we passed through the archway where many talented athletes entered before us. The 100 foot tunnel leading to the stadium (or stadion) was called the Krypte (a vaulted corridor), and was the official entrance for both the judges as well as the athletes. The recesses along the side of the tunnel served as a type of “locker” for the athletes. The Krypte was also known as the “secret entrance”.

Walking into the stadium was an exhilarating feeling as I approached the starting line. Flanking the 640 foot clay track are two hills which could seat over 40,000 people to watch the athletes compete in their respective sport. There is a small stonelike structure to the left of the starting line, about halfway down the field. It was here that the goddess Demeter Chamyne would sit on her altar as the only woman permitted to attend the competition. On the opposite side of the altar was the Judge’s Box. It was the designated seating area for elected local nobles who acted as referees (Hellanodikai) during the Games. At the starting line, there are 20 blocks made of white marble, each with two grooves for the feet of the athletes preparing for their race. It is a fun exercise for visitors to stand on their mark, get set and go, running downfield towards the end of the track.

There were several structures that had played an important role in the festivities of the Olympic Games over the years. One of these was the Altar of Hera. Not much remains of the Altar, but it functioned as the location of the ceremonial “Lighting of the Olympic Flame”. It was here where the select, local Greek women would commence the celebration dressed as priestesses, performing ritualistic dances in honor of the gods. Once the torch had been lit, the light would begin its long trek from Olympia ending its journey in the city that will host the Olympic Games. This ceremony signifies the official start of the contemporary Olympic Games and is televised months before the athletic competitions begin.

In close vicinity to the altar is the The Temple of Hera which is the oldest structure in the sanctuary. It dates back to 630 BC, with dimensions of 61 feet wide and 164 feet long. Inside of the temple were statues of Hera, the wife of the Greek god Zeus. Impressive artifacts from the temple include a statue of Hermes and the Disk of the Sun, both of which can be seen in the museum.

Sitting among the shaded trees in proximity to the Temple of Hera is the Philippeion, which is said to have been built during the Hellenistic era. The structure was designed as a memorial to Philip the Great, the ruler of Macedonia and father to Alexander the Great, who would one day create one of the largest empires of the ancient world. The circular edifice displayed statues of Philip and his family and was the first building that visitors would see upon entering Olympia.

After our tour we were provided the opportunity to explore the grounds and additional buildings on site. Walking back towards Kronos Hill, I noticed a well preserved structure which was known as the Leonidaion. Named after an affluent Naxian, Leonidas, it served as a guest house for the wealthy spectators as well as the visiting officials. Our scheduled time at leisure was minimal so that we would have the opportunity to visit the treasures that are housed at the Olympia Archaeological Museum. Knowing that this site was well-preserved due to its abandonment in the 4^th century BC, I could not wait to see the artifacts. Stay tuned for Part II of my exploration of Olympia, Greece which highlights the amazing relics on display at the museum, uncovered at this spectacular archaeological site.

What is your favorite sport of the winter and summer Olympics? Have you visited the city of Olympia? I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my excursion to the site of the original Olympic Games! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ancient Olympia
PC 27 065
Olympia
Telephone: +30 26240 22742

Admission Fee: 12 Euros from April to October and 6 Euros from November to March.
Hours: Open from April 1 to October 31. From November 1 to March 31 from 8AM to 3PM.
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the ancient ruins of Olympia and view of Knossos Hill
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as tours come in during the afternoon. Wear comfortable shoes for walking, bring bottled water and snacks as there are no options available until you enter the Archaeological Museum.

Where to Stay:

Bacchus
Arhaia Pissa 10,
Archea Olimpia , 270, 65
Greece
Telephone: +30 2624 022298

Where to Eat:

Bacchus Tavern
Arhaia Pissa 10,
Archea Olimpia , 270, 65
Greece
Telephone: +30 2624 022298

I ordered a mix of appetizers which included the Dolmadakia (grape leaves stuffed with rice), Tyropitakia (feta cheese wrapped in a puff pastry) and the Rolakia (smoked bacon and cheese wrapped in puff pastry) and a bottle of Malagousia Assyrtiko wine, locally produced in Olympia.

What to Eat:

Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
Choriatiki: Greek salad
Dolmadakia/Dolmades: stuffed grape leaves
Ellinikos: Greek coffee
Gyros
Kataifi: similar to baklava, but rolled
Moussaka: Greek’s answer to lasagna
Pastitsio: pasta made with noodles, ground beef and a bechamel sauce
Retsina Wine: has been made over 2000 years
Souvlaki: meat on a skewer
Spanikopita: pastry filled with spinach and cheese
Tzatziki: a Greek sauce made with yogurt, garlic, olive oil and fresh dill

What to Read:

Olympia: The Story of the Ancient Games, by Robin Waterfield
Race Through Time! Kid’s Guide to Olympia, Greece by Penelope Dyan
The Olympic Games in Ancient Greece – Ancient Olympia and the Olympic Games, by Nicolaos Yalouris

Santorini: Life on a Volcano
Mykonos, Greece: Whitewashed and Wild
The Island of Delos: A Lesson in Greek Mythology
Corfu…the Favorite Vacation Destination for an Empress
Corinth, a Biblical and Historical Perspective
The Archaeological Museum at Olympia
Athens, Greece: A Living Museum