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Tag Archives: reliefs

Napoleon Builds an Arc in Paris, France

4 February 20253 May 2025

We walked around the circle at the base of the Arc de Triomphe, surrounded by the chaos of traffic and the sound of automobile horns. There were inscriptions in the ground underneath the vault of the arch marking the location of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  Paying our respects, we happened upon the evening ceremony of the lighting of the torch.   This observance of one soldier, buried here in 1921, represented the many soldiers who fought for France during the First World War.

The magnificent Arc de Triomphe is a little piece of Rome that resides in the stylish city of Paris.  Napoleon Bonaparte, influenced by the triumphal arches of the Roman Empire, commissioned the monument to signify his victorious battle of Austerlitz in 1805.  Friezes of soldiers are ornately sculpted into the stonework while a list of Napoleonic victories and names of 558 French generals are memorialized on the inside and top of the arch. Four two-dimensional reliefs were elaborately carved into the arch, the most famous is Francois Rude’s “La Marseillaise”, which is also the title of Frances national anthem.  Standing 162 feet tall, 150 feet wide at the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle, the massive size can only be experienced in person.

We were prepared to visit the museum and climb the 284 steps to the top of the arch for magnificent views of Paris.  Purchasing our tickets in advance, we finished our exploration of the arch’s exterior and slipped into the museum to learn more about the history of the arch and mused over the enclosed miniature model.  The nearby shop offers a number of great mementos.

We continued our climb up the stairs to the viewing platform on top of the arch and were caught off guard by the breathtaking views.  Looking down from the top, we could see the maze of avenues extending out from the arch which resembled a web of concrete and steel.  Mesmerized by the lights along the Champs-Elysees we slowly walked the perimeter of the top where we located the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the Sacre Coeur.

Although construction on the arch began in 1806, Napoleon Bonaparte would never have the opportunity to enjoy his trophy which took thirty years to complete.  While his funeral was conducted at the base of the arch in 1921, Napoleon’s triumphal project was finally completed in 1936.

What to See and What to Do:

Arc de Triomphe
Place Charles de Gaulle
75008, Paris, France
Telephone:  +33 155 377 377

  • Admission Fee:  Free, but there is an additional cost to visit the rooftop observation deck for 9,50 Euros for adults and free for visitors 18 years and under. From October to March, the first Sunday of each month is free.
  • Hours:  Open daily from 10AM to 11:30PM October to March and open daily from 10AM to 11PM April to September.  The last entry is scheduled 45 minutes prior to the museum’s closing.
  • Amenities:   Museum, gift shop, self guided tour brochure available in 8 languages and 90-minute tour lectures provided in French, English and Spanish
  • Scenic View:   Gorgeous views from the rooftop
  • Length of Visit:  1 – 2 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  The museum and observation deck is included in the Paris Pass.  Do not cross the traffic to reach the Arc de Triomphe!  Attempting to cross the roundabout is potentially dangerous.  From the northern side of the Champs-Elysees are stairs that lead to pedestrian tunnels bringing you beneath the arch.  You should be moderately fit to be able to take the stairs to the top and wear appropriate shoes. The best time to visit the rooftop is during sunset.

Where to Stay:

Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris
31 Avenue George V
75008, Paris, France
Telephone:  +33 49 52 70 00

Where to Eat:

Le Cinq
Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris
31 Avenue George V
75008, Paris, France
Telephone:  +33 49 52 71 54

Wow!  I experienced two amazing dinners over the last couple of days and Le Cinq will forever be considered one of my top three restaurants!  I ordered the Sea Bass with cavier and ribot milk that was so creamy and prepared with perfection!  David ordered the Australian Black Market Beef draped with truffled mozzarella and the meat was so tender and I wished we could have ordered another side of truffled mozzarella. Ingenious!

What to Eat: 

  • Beef Borgonion is France’s equivalent to a beef stew but better!
  • Fresh Bread from the Boulangerie 
  • Cheese
  • Chocolate Croissants
  • Coq au Vin is an extraordinary French chicken stew
  • Creme Brulee is an egg custard that has been torched on the top to create a crisp layer
  • Crepes are an egg based wrap filled sweet or savory fillings
  • Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame are croissants filled with sweet or savory fillings such as cheese or ham.
  • Duck which is listed as canard on the French menu
  • Escargot
  • French Onion Soup
  • Frites are France’s fancy French fries
  • Frog Legs
  • Frois Gras is a duck pate
  • Macarons are deliciously light airy pastries made from sugar and almond flour
  • Meringues
  • Profiteroles are cream puffs

What to Read: 

  • The Hunchback of Notre Dame, by Victor Hugo
  • The Sun Also Rises, Ernest Hemingway
  • Les Miserable, by Victor Hugo
  • The Life Before Us, by Romain Gary
  • All the Light we cannot see, by Anthony Doerr
  • Suite Francaise by Irene Nemirovsky
  • Perfume by Patrick Suskind

Photo Guide for Paris: 

  • Avenue des Champs Elysses for street scenes and upscale restaurants and hotels
  • Eiffel Tower for fabulous views of the city
  • Galeries Lafayette Haussmann for gorgeous architecture
  • Jardin du Luxembourg for nature
  • The Louvre for art and architecture
  • Montemartre for the art scene and architecture
  • Notre Dame Cathedral for amazing views
  • Paris Bird and Flower Market for interesting people watching
  • Paris Metro for street scenes
  • Sacre Coeur for sunsets and panoramic views
  • Saint Michel and the Latin Quarter for street scenes

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A Masterpiece of Athens Architecture, The Acropolis

12 September 202315 April 2025

 

DSC_0924, Athens, Greece, Acropolis

First inhabited by the Mycenaeans, the Acropolis (acro, meaning high and polis, meaning city), towers 490 feet over the city of Athens.  Strategically positioned on a large boulder of limestone, the ancient, hilltop citadel has been in existence for over 3500 years.  Acting as both a fortress and place of worship over the years, it is the symbol of Athens and represents the classical civilization of Greek.   The main structures of the Acropolis include the Temple of Athena Nike, the Parthenon, the Erechtheion and the Propylaia, many of which were completed during the Golden Age of Pericles.  This inconceivable scale of buildings have been in a constant state of renovation since 1975.

DSC_0926 - Closer to the Acropolis

The Acropolis is only accessible by its western end.  This was once the entrance of the Acropolis during the Hekatombaion  celebration to the goddess Athena.  It was here that the Greeks built a sanctuary in her honor which included a colossal bronze statue of the goddess, designed and built by Pheidias.

DSC_0929, Panorama Dionysus Theater

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus is located close to the entrance to the Acropolis.  It is also known as the Herodeon and “Yanni’s Theater”.  It was constructed between 160 and 170AD by Herodes Atticus, a Greek aristocrat as well as a Roman senator.   While this magnificent structure shows the grandeur of Greek architecture, its phenomenal staircases and mosaics are no longer visible.

The 5,000 seat (34 tiers) amphitheater functions as a venue for various modern cultural events such as festivals and concerts:  Frank Sinatra – 1962;  The Miss Universe pageant – 1973;   Luciano Pavarotti  – 1991 and 2004;  But the most remembered concert was Yanni’s Live at the Acropolis in 1993.   Sting, Elton John, Liza Minnelli, Diana Ross, Jean Michel Jarre, and a long list of Greek entertainers have also performed here over the years.

DSC_0930, Beule Gate

Upon reaching the Acropolis, visitors will enter the Beule Gate built by Flavius Septimus Marcellinus in AD 280.   During Roman times, this was the official entrance to the Acropolis.

DSC_0937 - The Propylaia

After passing through the gate, a brief climb heads towards the Propylaea, which is quite steep.  Propylaea means “gates in front of something”. This was the entrance into the Acropolis during the Golden Age of Athens.  It was originally decorated with statues and painted in bright colors with a marble tiled ceiling painted sky blue adorned with stars. Each year, the people of Athens would climb these steps to celebrate the Hekatombaion (1st of the month in the day of the summer, usually July), to sacrifice 100 oxen to the goddess Athena.  To the left, the Propylaia housed artwork and provided accommodations for dignitaries and important visitors called the Pinacoteca.    The grey, stone, 25 foot pedestal (pictured to the left) is the Monument of Agrippa.  This platform once displayed a bronze statue of the four-horse chariot driven by the chariot race winner in 178 BC.   According to archaeologists, this gate is actually concealing the Mycenean Palace gate that was erected here around the 5th century.    This central walkway, continuing into the Acropolis, is named the Panathenaic Way.

DSC_0933, Temple of Nike, Athens

Kallikrates designed the Temple of Athena Nike in Ionic style between 427 and 424 BC.  It replaced the former sanctuary that was destroyed by the Persians in 479BC.   The interior of the building held a wooden statue of Athena Nike holding a pomegranate in one hand and a helmet in the other.  After the statue’s wings were broken, the temple became known as the Temple of Wingless Athena Nike (Nike Apteros, the Wingless Victory).   The relief sculptures and Ionic columns are well-preserved.

DSC_0943, Erechtheion

Through the Propylaea is a vast field of stone ruins.  Long ago, there was a bronze statue of Athena that once stood in this area as well as the original of Temple of Athena Polis.    The bronze statue was moved from this location to Constantinople and the temple was burned down by the Persians under the reign of Xerxes in 480 BC as retaliation against the Athenians for destroying one of their temples in Sardis years before.

DSC_0816

The Parthenon is the most recognized structure on the Acropolis and the largest measuring 228 feet long by 101 feet wide.  This Doric-style creation was designed by Phidias, a sculptor and two architects, Iktinos and Kallikrates back in the fifth century BC (440s).  This classical Greek masterpiece was constructed of the finest Pentelic marble from Mount Penteliko and was once the greatest temple of its time.

The 22,000 tons of precious marble was extravagantly painted in various colors, not the white marble you see today.  Many architects have marveled at the complex design of this temple which is constructed on a  platform of three steps measuring 228 feet long and over 100 feet wide.  Serving as a Christian church as well as a mosque, the Parthenon has been in a state of renovation for many years.

The temple is surrounded by a peristyle with 17 Doric columns down each side.  At the end is a double row of columns, eight on the outside and six smaller columns on the inside.  Above the columns you can see the metatopes, the marble that sits atop these columns.  The metatopes acted as bases for the pediments (triangular structure) which contained statues depicting mythical scenes of Athena, the city’s patron goddess.   Inside of the Parthenon, there was once a large statue of Athena, which sat on the large socket that remains in the floor of the Parthenon.

DSC_0942, The Women on the Erechtheion

The Erechtheion, located across from the Parthenon, was built in 406BC to replace the original temple that had once stood in the middle of the acropolis.  It has been thought that its purpose was a place of worship for Erechtheus, the celebrated king of Athens and other significant gods.   It is known to have included altars to Athena Polias, the protector of the city as well as Hephaistos, the god of blacksmiths and fire.

DSC_0838

But it is the Caryatid Porch, the columns of six maidens, that is the most recognizable feature of this structure. The porch was the landing where the priestesses would stand to watch the procession of people and oxen during the annual Hekatombaion celebration.  The original Caryatids can be found in the Acropolis Museum.   Notice the olive tree to the left of the Erechtheion which is said to have been a descendant to the one that Athena planted.

DSC_0934, Looking Down from the Acropolis to Mars Hill

A phenomenal view from the Acropolis is the Areopagus, a limestone rock which was once a place of judicial rulings for the Athenians.  Several notable trials were conducted here, including the trial of Orestes for the murder of his mother, Clytemnestra.

DSC_0769

To view the sculptures and fragments from the Parthenon as well as the original Caryotids and replicas of the Elgin Marbles, visit the Acropolis Museum.  It can be seen here in the distance (the dark glass windowed building) from the south parapet.

DSC_0947 - Greek Flag

A Greek flag flies high at the outer edge of the Acropolis.   The tour guide explained the significance of this flag.  It represents a historical event that occurred after the German invasion during World War II.   It was told that German troops ordered that the Greek flag be replaced with the swastika after it had conquered Greece.   During this time Greek soldiers would stand guard of their country’s flag and were responsible for the raising and lowering of if each day.   On this very day, the Greek soldier on guard, lowered the Greek flag, wrapped it around himself and jumped over the parapet to his death.  It would be a story that reached the citizens of Greece and would mark the beginning of the Greek resistance towards the Germans.  A perfect example of the Greeks’ resilience and their nationalism…their strength to forge ahead.

Have you visited the spectacular city of Athens?  I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below!  Many thanks for reading about my day in Athens and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

Acropolis
Athens 105 58, Greece

Where to Stay:

Divani Palace Acropolis
Parthenonos 19
Athens, 117 42  Greece
Telephone:  +30 21 0928 0100

Where to Eat: 

To Kafeneio
Epicharmou 1, Plaka
Athens, Attiki, 105 51  Greece

What to Eat:

    • Baklava is layers of phyllo dough filled with nuts, spices and sweetened with honey
    • Greek Salad
    • Greek Wine from Santorini is unique as the grapes are grown in volcanic ash
    • Gyros
    • Lamb
    • Local Olives
    • Mashed Fava Beans (Fava me Koukia)
    • Moussaka is an eggplant or potato based pie with meat and cheese
    • Pomegranates
    • Saganaki is a phyllo pastry stuffed with cheese and covered in honey
    • Souvlaki are meat kabobs made from lamb, beef or chicken
    • Spanikopita is a phyllo pastry filled with spinach, cheese, and sometimes onion
    • Tomato Fritters made with tomatoes and onion, they are spiced either with oregano and peppermint then deep-fried
    • Tzatziki is a yogurt based sauce with bits of garlic, onion, cucumbers, olive oil and lemon. Pita bread is usually served with this dish for dipping.

What to Read: 

  • The Odyssey, by Homer
  • The King Must Die, by Mary Renault
  • Little Infamies, by Panos Karnezis
  • My Family and Other Animals, by Gerald Durrell
  • Uncle Petros and Goldbach’s Conjecture, by Apostolos Doxiadis
  • Freedem and Death, by Nikos Kazantzakis
  • The Dark Labyrinth, by Lawrence Durrell
  • The Names, by Don DeLillo
  • Atticus the Storyteller’s 100 Greek Myths by Lucy Coats and Anthony Lewis

Photo Guide for Athens, Greece:

  • Acropolis
  • Temple of Olympian Zeus
  • Ancient Agora
  • Dromeas “Running Man” Sculpture
  • Changing of the Guard (Evzones)
  • Panatheniac Stadium
  • Anafiotika Neighborhood
  • Mount Lycabettus
  • Lake Vouliagmeni
  • Pentelikion Waterfall
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I have had a passion to travel for as long as I can remember and landed my dream job at the age of 19 on a cruise ship. The Suite Life of Travel is about those experiences as well as my future endeavor to explore this amazing world!

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