The Timeless Beauty of the Amalfi Coast

4 August 201918 September 2024

Arriving into the port of Naples, I quickly noticed a clear distinction between the ancient city and its modern metropolis. Commercial vessels, cruise ships and fishing boats lined up along the pier as passengers and merchandise came ashore. Several ships transported tourists to the local islands while buses waited at the entrance of the port for day trippers to explore the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii.

The cruise ship, Pullmantur Sovereign, offered several interesting excursions for the day and it was difficult to decide between the Amalfi Coast drive or a day in Capri. I was also interested in Pompeii but in the end, I chose the coastal drive to explore Amalfi, Sorrento and a drive through Positano.

The Amalfi Coast was once a luxury getaway for the Caesars of Rome with its aquamarine seas and picturesque cliffs. The dramatic coastline extends about 67 miles with hairpin turns and dangerous switchbacks while precipitous cliffs vertically plunge into the sea. Charming hillside towns miraculously appear along the route with their colorful, picturesque exteriors.

We were about 45 minutes from our first stop and in the distance I could see the islands of Procida, Capri and Ischia. The morning haze had lifted and glimpses of the spectacular vistas began to appear.

Looking out the window of the bus, I found myself lost in the stunning villages with their picturesque harbors, high cliffs and coves. I imagined renting a sailboat and leisurely coasting along the shoreline in pursuit of an outdoor restaurant or a private beach for an afternoon of rest and relaxation.

I could hardly contain my excitement as the bus passed road signs directing us towards the charming town of Sorrento, known for its production of limoncello.

Once we arrived, we began our walk towards the center of town. Narrow alleyways branched off from the plaza filled with outdoor restaurants and souvenir shops. Fruit stands overflowing with colorful produce and limoncello were popular stops along the thoroughfare. Limoncello, a lemon liquor made from local Femminello St. Teresa lemons, was handed out in plastic cups for tourists to sample before buying.

Overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento’s warm, year-around climate and dramatic views make it a popular vacation spot. Piazza Tasso (Tasso Square) is surrounded by bright pastel buildings and ceramic displays hanging from its exterior walls. A statue of St. Anthony, the patron saint of the town, stands guard within the square. Buses make a quick stop to pick up passengers visiting Marina Piccola or Via Capo. The plaza, vibrant with tourists and locals, is the heart of this coastal town.

I bought a few bottles of limoncello to take back home as gifts and browsed the ceramic pieces which were absolutely stunning. Our next stop brought us to the town of Amalfi, once an important trading port along the Mediterranean.

The winding road of Strada Statale 163 (SS 163) is the connection between Amalfi and Sorrento. Built during the Roman Empire, the roadway is exceptionally narrow with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The passage is carved among the cliffs with tunnels that frame the breathtaking views. Before reaching Amalfi, the road passes through Positano, a picturesque village on a hill, which is the coast’s most photogenic town.

Before we entered the tunnel that led to Amalfi, a traffic jam brought our bus to a complete stop. Our tour guide offered us the chance to take the walkway down to the harbor or we could stay on the bus until the traffic subsided. Unanimously, our group was happy to exit the bus to stretch our legs and start the hike towards the shore.

Amalfi was once a maritime superpower in the 10^th and 11^th centuries with its multiple trade routes rivaling those of Genoa, Pisa and Venice. Once a population of more than 70,000, the laid-back, humble Amalfi of today is home to about 5,000 residents who depend on tourism to survive. With one main street connecting the waterfront to the valley, visitors can easily walk from one end to the other in about 20 minutes.

We reached the tranquil cove where sailboats were anchored and motorboats docked. I was mesmerized by the sun’s rays and the images reflecting off of the sea. Peaceful and calm, I could have stood in this spot for the remainder of the day.

From the harbor, we crossed the street entering the Piazza del Duomo. My eyes were immediately drawn to the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea (Duomodi Amalfi). The basilica, built between 1000 to 1300 AD, is dedicated to the apostle Andrew, the brother of St. Peter. It is believed that the remains of St. Andrew were brought to Amalfi during the Crusades and is buried in the Crypt within the cathedral.

The Boutique Coralli e Cammei is known for its ceramic merchandise and dates back to 1885. On my way out, I enjoyed shopping among the tiles, dishes, flower pots and artwork.

It was time for us to meet at the mossy fountain before boarding the bus. Across the street I caught one last glimpse of the harbor and looked forward to the scenic ride back to the ship.

I imagine Capri is absolutely fabulous and that the Pompeii ruins are incredible, but I could not have picked a better day to have explored the Amalfi Coast.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Amalfi Coast? Which towns were your favorite? I would love to hear about your visit to southern Italy if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my day exploring the Amalfi Coast and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Limonoro
Via San Cesareo 49/53
80067 Sorrento Italy
Telephone: +39 081 878 5348

The go-to shop for purchasing limoncello! Yum!

Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Sant’Andrea)
Via Duca Mansone I
84011 Amalfi, SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 873558

Admission Fee: 3 Euros to visit the church and the museum
Hours: 10AM to 5PM
Scenic View: A lovely view of the piazza from the stairs leading into the basilica.
Amount of Time to Visit: 30 minutes to an hour
Tips for Your Visit: The Cloister of Paradise leads into the museum of the Basilica of the Crucifix and the relics of St. Andrew, the Apostle of Christ.

Where to Stay:

Plaza Sorrento – in Sorrento
Via Fuorimura, 3
80067 Sorrento (Napoli) Italy
Telephone: +39 081 8073942

Hotel Aurora – in Amalfi
Piazzale dei Protontini, 7
84011, Amalfi, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871209

Il San Pietro di Positano – in Positano
Via Laurito, 2
84017 Positano, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 812 080

Where to Eat:

Terrazza Bosquet at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria – in Sorrento
Piazza Tasso, 34
80067, Sorrento, Italy
Telephone: +39 081 877 71 11

It became a joke between my boyfriend, David and I that I had never visited a Michelin star restaurant for dinner, so for a lovely surprise during our stay in Sorrento, David took me to Terrazza Bosquet.

For a starter, we ordered the Saffron Marinated Sea Bass with Smoked Provolone cheese and black truffle and for dinner I ordered the Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Basil, while I encouraged David to order the Tasting Menu (105 Euros) for various options to sample. For wine, we ordered the Malbec Riserva, 2012 Domaine Bousquet. What an incredible experience!

Ristorante Eolo – in Amalfi
Via Pantaleone Comite, 3
84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871241

We had eaten a late lunch, so we decided to enjoy one of the restaurant’s sumptuous desserts and a bottle of wine! We each ordered the chocolate bombe with raspberry sauce with gold shavings. Perfect with our wine, Passopisciaro Passorosso 2015 from Mt. Etna in Sicily.

Da Adolfo – in Positano
Via Laurito 40,
Positano, italy
Telephone: +39 089 875 022

To reach this amazing, historical restaurant, you have to take a five minute boat ride from the port of Positano. The menu is limited, but we LOVED the mussels and Adolfo’s chicken….and of course, the local wine!

What to Eat:

Delizia al limone: A signature dish of the Amalfi Coast, this decadent dessert is made from lemons, limoncello, eggs, sugar and flour.
Goat cheese from Monti Lattari: One of the most exclusive cheeses from this area and is found in most local restaurants.
Limoncello: This after dinner drink is prepared using local lemons.
Mozzarella cheese: Produced from both cow milk and buffalo milk, this mild cheese is best eaten plain at room temperature.
Pasta: The region of Campania is known for making its own extraordinary pasta.
Provolone del Monaco: Another cheese from this region, this semi-hard cheese can be eaten raw
Scialatielli ai frutti de mare: Translated as traditional pasta with seafood, this dish was made famous by local chef Enrico Cosentino in the 1960s.
Spaghetti alla Nerano: Spaghetti noodles cooked with zucchini, provolone and topped with basil. Nerano is the name of the city where this dish was created.
Wines from Tramonti, Ravello and Furore

What to Read:

My Amalfi Coast: Travel Edition by Amanda Tabberer
Gelato Sisterhood on the Amalfi Shore by Chantal Kelly
The House in Amalfi by Elizabeth Adler
Amalfi Blue: Lost & Found in the South of Italy by Lisa Fantino

Photo Guide for the Amalfi Coast:

Spaggia Grande in Positano: Classic photo against the backdrop of colorful cliffside houses…stunning photography.
The Staircase at the Duomo in Amalfi: Pose on the steps for an iconic photo.
Villa Cimbrone in Ravello: The Terrace of Infinity provides views of endless blue with Roman statue in the background.
The Streets of Vietri sul Mare: Capture the charm of this colorful waterfront village.
The Fjords in Furore: Pose against the beautiful scenery of the cove and the amazing bridge in the background.
The Beach in Atrani: Pink buildings provide the perfect contrast with the blue umbrellas on the beach.
Colorful Coastal Fruit: Stop along the charming seaside towns and their fruit stands for colorful photos.

A Fountain in Amalfi

Exploring Cincinnati’s Italian Heritage at CincItalia!

11 June 201918 September 2024

Cincinnati is known for its weekly Catholic festivals and the integral part they play, not only in raising money for the local parishes, but as a social meeting place among each of the churches. One of these festivals is the CincItalia, representing the St. Catherine of Siena Parish on the west side, which takes place at the Harvest Home Park each year.

The festivities began on Friday with an Adult-Only Carnevale celebration. Lasting from 6PM until midnight, the Italian food and wine flowed abundantly. This year, the Rusty Griswolds would perform on opening night, drawing large crowds to hear their favorite 80’s tunes.

I made my first stop at Gregorios to try the Arancini ($5), a Sicilian dish, made of rice with meat and cheese in the center, coated in bread crumbs and then fried. With a crisp outside and cheese-filled middle, this would only be the start of my Italian feast.

There were over 12 food stalls serving everything from Fried Calamari to Penne Pasta, hot dogs to pizza. A large selection of desserts included Italian favorites such as gelatos, ice and cannolis.

The Beer Garden was packed, but I was able to find a place to sit after waiting in the short line for a Prosecco.

The Rusty Griswolds were preparing for their first set as a large crowd began to gather near the stage. This band has been a local favorite in the early 1980’s when they were known as Free Reins. Having won a local rock station band contest, they performed for a few years until the band took a short hiatus. Reconvening in the late 90’s, the band changed their name to the Rusty Griswolds and bring large crowds to the venues where they perform.

With an amazing selection of Italian food, drinks and desserts, phenomenal 80’s music from the Rusty Griswolds, the CincItalia is one of the best Catholic festivals to attend each year.

Have you visited the CincItalia Festival or do you have a favorite Catholic festival in Cincinnati? I would love to hear about your experience or recommendations on where to visit next! Many Thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

CincItalia
Harvest Home Park
3961 North Bend Road
Cheviot, OH 45211
Telephone: 513 661 0651

Where to Stay:

Holiday Inn Express West
5505 Rybolt Street
Cincinnati, OH 45248
Telephone: 513 574 6000

Where to Eat:

CincItalia
Harvest Home Park
3961 North Bend Road
Cheviot, OH 45211
Telephone: 513 661 0651

I recommend the arancini, stromboli, prosecco and limoncello.

More of My Favorite Places to Eat:

Skyline Chili: My go-to meal at Skyline is the 4-way chili with onion served with oyster crackers and hot sauce. I always pick up two York peppermint patties after cashing out. Cincinnati chili is a beef based sauce served over spaghetti noodles and cheese. Additional toppings include onions and beans.
LaRosa’s Pizza: A local chain pizzeria, this Sicilian style pie is made with a sweet crust and sauce. My favorite menu item is the Caprese pesto Flatbread Pizza.
Graeter’s Ice Cream: It’s the French Pot process that makes Graeter’s Ice Cream so decadent and rich. Towards the end of the process, they pour chocolate into the mix creating large chunks of yummy goodness.
Montgomery Inn BBQ: Visiting the original Montgomery Inn BBQ at the boathouse is a culinary and scenic experience. Their ribs are served with a sweet and tangy sauce that has since made them the “Ribs King” and a favorite among locals. Load up on their amazing BBQ flavored Saratoga chips,
Glier’s Goetta: While it looks like a slab of corn beef hash, this breakfast staple is made of sausage and oats, cooked until crispy. Most breakfast restaurants carry it as a side, especially the local cafes and diners.
BonBonerie: One of the most decadent pastry shops in Cincinnati, their rich confections are absolutely amazing.

Where to Drink:

Moerlein Lager House
115 Joe Nuxhall Way
Cincinnati, OH 45202
Telephone: 513 421 2337

Books to Read:

Eligible: A Modern Retelling of Pride & Prejudice, by Curtis Sittenfeld
Running, by J.T. Cooper
Dead Witch Walking, by Kim Harrison
Beloved, by Toni Morrison
Double Dutch, by Sharon M. Draper
Romiette and Julio, by Sharon M. Draper

Photo Guide for Cincinnati (as provided by Chris Thompson on FourSquare):

The John A Roebling Suspension Bridge
- Pick a spot near the Covington pier and shoot north toward the Cincinnati skyline. Shoot at sunset and underexpose by a few stops to get the lights just right.
- The new lights on the bridge create excellent stars when you photograph them using a narrow aperture (~f/16 and above) on your camera. That means you’ll need a longer exposure (and thus a tripod).
General James Taylor Park
- Shoot from the top of the flag pole mound to get more building reflections in your shot. Shoot at sunset or sunrise for great lighting.
Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal
- Arrive first thing in the morning when the sun is coming up
The Fountain at Fountain Square
- For great photos of the fountain: set your camera on a tripod and use a long exposure (2-5 seconds) to capture the running water. Get Carew or the colored lights above Rock Bottom in the background.
Fountain Square (look for reflections in puddles)
Celestial Restaurant in Mount Adams – The restaurant is now closed, but you may still be able to use the parking lot.
Carew Tower Observation Deck
- Provides some neat photos of the highways snaking around the city. Set your camera on a tripod and use a long exposure to get moving car trails. It’s only open at sunset a few days each year.
Engine Company 46, 2733 Erie Avenue (at Michigan), Cincinnati
- One of the most beautiful historic firehouses in all of Cincinnati. The firefighters here are used to having their photo taken while they work. Ask nicely and you can get some cool shots.
Cincinnati Observatory Center
Krohn Conservatory
Great American Ball Park
- Shoot the front of the stadium around sunset to get a nice color blue in the sky. Get one of the player statues in your shot for extra effect.
Devou Park
- The overlook next to the Drees pavilion affords a great view of the Cincinnati skyline. Shoot at sunrise or sunset for the best lighting. Underexpose slightly to get the city lights just right.
Newport Central Catholic for fireworks
- Shoot the Riverfest fireworks from this location. Bring a long lens and a tripod. You’ll want a long-ish exposure (5-10 seconds) to capture the bursts, but make sure the skyline isn’t overexposed.
Riverfront Park
- The colorful fountains make a great subject, but you need to use a relatively fast shutter speed (>1/20 or so) to catch the lights before they change color, leaving your pic with plain white lights.
American Sign Museum
- Be sure to bring a tripod to capture all the signs. Manual white balance is the way to go, because there are so many crazy colors of lights that your camera won’t know how to react.