Tag Archives: Spain

A Tour of San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro

San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro is the iconic representation of a city rich with history and architecture.  The fort, also known as El Morro, has lasted over 400 years, protecting the southwestern side of the island from invaders and pirates.  But what was the reason that a fort was built here in the first place?  It was strategically located between the continent of Europe and the New World where ships could seek shelter, water and supplies and it was determined, that occupation of this land would give wealth to the country that controlled this entrance into the Caribbean Sea.

1 The Grounds in Front of El Morro, San Juan, PR

It was in 1493 when Christopher Columbus came to the island and first claimed it for Spain.  Puerto Rico would later fall to the British and Dutch, but only for very short periods of time.  During the Dutch attack in 1623, hundreds of Dutch and Spanish soldiers gave their lives.   It wasn’t until the 1800’s that Spain would cede ownership of the island to the United States of America, ending the Spanish-American War.

2 The Entrance to El Morro, 1.31.16

As I walked through the Greek-style entrance into the fort, I noticed the thick walls that gave an extra depth to the fortification of the city.  It would take Spain over 250 years to build El Morro.  The structure that stands today is similar to the how the fort would have looked in 1790.

3 Iguanas on the El Morro Grounds, 1.31.16

I was so interested in the structure of the fort that I hardly noticed the large iguanas on the interior lawn of El Morro.  I also noticed them climbing up the fortress wall and stopped a few times to take a closer look because they were camouflaged so well.

6 Cannons in El Morro, San Juan, PR, 1.31.16

As I crossed the bridge into El Morro, I entered Level 5 of the six levels of the fort.  Looking up from this level there were three flags representing the Spanish Army, Puerto Rico and the United States of America.

The cannons were a reminder of the importance of this fort in times when it was occupied to defend the island.  Many of them used bronze 8-pound cannonballs that took eight to ten artillerymen to operate them.  Their strategy was to fire the cannons every thirty seconds, reaching targets a mile away.

7 The Kitchen Inside of the Fort, 1.31.16

The kitchen was a very important part of the lives of the soldiers.  Meals were prepared here using ingredients such as fish and cured meat that came from Spain.  When the meat arrived, it was inedible so the soldiers soaked it with vegetables and spices creating a type of stew.  It is said that this is the origin of sancocho, a stew that remains popular both in Puerto Rico as well as other Spanish-speaking countries.

7 Land Defense, El Morro, 1.31.16

After visiting many of the rooms, including the powder room, on the fifth floor, I took the ramp up to the sixth floor to see the area known as the “Land Defense”.

8 Level 6 of the Fort, 1.31.16

From the level six of the fort, it was easy to see why this floor would be considered a strong area of defense.  With the evidence of cannons stationed here, there was little space between each one, guaranteed to hit their targets coming in from the sea.

9 The Lighthouse, El Morro, 1.31.16

It wasn’t until 1846 that the first of four lighthouses (two would be rebuilt) at El Morro were erected to  provide safe passage for ships into and out of the harbor of San Juan.     Prior to the restoration of the lighthouse that currently stands on El Morro, the previous house was made out of red brick and was in desperate need of repair.

10 Spectacular Views, El Morro, San Juan, PR, 1.31.16

I couldn’t help but notice the spectacular view from Level 6 of El Morro and imagined an invasion of ships heading toward us in the distance.

12 Exploring the Lower Levels of El Morro, 1.31.16

Next, I took the stairs down to the lower level.  At this point, I was heading toward the Cannon Water Battery.  It was here where I found the remaining cannons on display and the embrasures from which the cannons were fired.

13 Medieval Lookout on the tower, 1.31.16

There was a medieval watch tower in the center of the battery.  Known as the Torre Antigua, some believe it may be haunted.

14 El Canuelo

Looking over the wall, I could see another fort out into the horizon at the end of Isla de Cabras (Goat Island).  This is El Morro’s sister fort, San Juan de la Cruz, translated as St. John of the Cross.  It was strategically placed here to create crossfire in the event that ships would try to slip past El Morro on the far side of the channel.   This small fort is also referred to as El Canuelo.

15 Tall wall of El Morro, 1.31.16

From this vantage point, I clearly understood the importance of this area in defense of the island and how important it was for protecting San Juan.

16 The Grandeur of El Morro, 1.31.16

The view from the top of the fort emphasized the complicated structure of El Morro.  The worn away, weathered stone and its height gave it the sense of strength and might.  The thickness of the walls provided a sense of wonder and impenetrability.

17 Observation Post from WWII

I came across a structure that seemed more updated and out of place.  I learned that this was once an Observation Post which was used during WWII.  After the Second War, El Morro would no longer act as a military base.

18 Cannon Placement, El Morro, 1.31.16

Continuing my climb up the fort, I noticed where the cannons would have been placed and the circular patterns that they created when moved to the left or right to hit their target out in the ocean.

El Morro is unlike any fortress I have seen throughout the United States.  It was built and designed to protect the city and remains an iconic figure to San Juan.  There have been several forts along the American coasts, but this is one of the most fascinating and well preserved.

Have you had the opportunity to visit El Morro?  What are your thoughts about this expansive structure?  I would love to hear what you liked most about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about our exploration of El Morro and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro
501 Norzagaray Street
San Juan, PR  00901
Telephone: 787 729 6754

  • Admission Fee:  $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
  • Hours:  Open daily from 9AM to 6PM.  Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
  • Amenities:  Gift shop and restrooms
  • Scenic Views:  Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
  • Length of Visit:  2 – 3 hours
  • Tips for Your Visit:  There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises.  Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water.  (Carts outside sell water).

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas Old San Juan
202 Calle San Jose
San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Telephone:  787 722 9191

Amenities:  Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

Where to Eat:

Cafe El Punto
105 Calle Fortaleza
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Telephone:  787 725 1306

I can’t resist ordering the local dish, mofongo where the main ingredient is fried plantains most likely served with a healthy helping of meat such as chicken, beef or seafood.

What to Eat: 

  • MOFONGO!  This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan.  Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
  • Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
  • Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
  • Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
  • Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
  • Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
  • Pastelon:  San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
  • The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.

Where to Drink:

Marilyn’s Place
100 Calle San Francisco
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901

What to Read: 

  • The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
  • The House on the Lagoon by Rosario Ferre
  • Simone by Eduardo Lalo
  • Mundo Cruel by Luis Negron
  • La Llamarada by Enrique Laguerre
  • Song of the Simple Truth by Julia de Burgos

Photo Guide for San Juan, Puerto Rico

  • La Perla in Old San Juan for its colorful umbrellas
  • The cobblestone streets and colorful buildings of Old San Juan
  • The Forts in Old San Juan

Z DSC_0356

A sentry (lookout) at El Morro

Z DSC_0358

Belltower at El Morro
Z DSC_0366

The Restored Lighthouse at El Morro
Z DSC_0379

The Layout of El Morro which resembles a bull
Z DSC_0388

Stairs and ramps at El Morro
Z DSC_0391

Beautiful View from El Morro

4 The Chapel at El Morro, 1.31.16

The Chapel at the Fort

5 The Flags of the Spanish Army, Puerto Rico and the US, 1.31.16

Flags at the Fort

19 Fascinating View from El Morro, 1.31.16

Seaside views from El Morro Fort

Ocracoke’s Wild Horses

The highlight of our Hatteras vacation is always a stop at Ocracoke Island and what makes it more exciting is a stop at the corral to see the small herd of mustang ponies.  Known as the Banker Horse, these wild mustangs are said to have been descendants of the Spanish Galleon shipwrecks.  Their story dates back to 1565 when it was believed that the arrival of a ship from Spain, the Tiger, ran aground off of the coast of North Carolina.  The captain of the ship unloaded the livestock overboard to lighten its load and the horses swam to shore.   Their presence on Ocracoke Island was recorded in the 1730s when settlers first noticed them.  They were also found on the Hatteras islands as far north as Corolla and Nag’s Head.

As settlers continued to populate the coast of the Outer Banks, they captured the Banker Horse to tame them.  Soon the locals were racing the mustangs to see which horse was the fastest.  Eventually race tracks were created such as Jockey’s Ridge, southwest of the great sand dune at Nag’s Head beach.  The grandstands were built into the sand dunes which drew thousands of people to its site.  These races continued for several years, but today, most of these ponies reside on Ocracoke Island, protected as an endangered animal species.

By 1959, the Ocracoke ponies were secured by a fenced in property of 180 acres.  As tourism grew on the island and NC Highway 12 was completed, the horses were in danger of auto traffic and the National Park Service took action to provide shelter for them.

Scientific studies have confirmed that the Ocracoke herd of ponies exhibit the same DNA matching those of the Spanish Mustangs (the Q-ac genetic marker) and have similar physical attributes.  Such traits include their small height which measures anywhere from 52 to 59 inches, compact frames, a short back and smaller legs. They are also known to have wide foreheads and strong, short necks.  Their ability to carry heavy weight is due to their increased bone density which is five to ten times greater than the average horse.

The Bankers’ diet consists mainly of grass, bulrush, sea oats  and maritime forest, which would eventually have an impact on the ecology of the islands.  While many assumed it was the result of overgrazing, additional research determined that it was the horses’ hooves that were damaging the vegetative growth.  The horses, relying on pools of rainwater to drink, were known to “dig” with their hooves to reach surface water from 2.5 to 4 feet deep.  For this reason, the park system does not shoe the ponies.

Protected by the National Park Service, these ponies are feral and although they have a docile temperament, petting them is prohibited. The Park Service provides scheduled talks at the Ocracoke pony pen for those who want to see the Bankers and learn more about their history.  There is also an opportunity to “Adopt A Pony” with a small donation.  Donors will receive a photo of the horse they have adopted, an adoption certificate and summary of the pony’s history.  The charitable gift will help to feed the horses and contribute to their health care.

Have you visited the Ocracoke ponies?  I would be happy to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about the beautiful Bankers on Ocracoke and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ocracoke Horses & Ponies

Where to Stay:

The Castle B&B
155 Silver Lake Drive
Ocracoke, NC  27960
Telephone:  252 928 3505

Where to Eat:

SMacNally’s Bar & Grill
180 Irvin Garrish Highway
Ocracoke, NC  27960
Telephone:  252 928 9999

There were several restaurant options, but we wanted a restaurant along the water.  A menu full of fried food, I had to try the Shrimp Po’Boy which came with fries.  We also decided to add the hushpuppies and coleslaw to our order, which were absolutely delicious!

What to Eat: 

  • Seafood along Irvin Garrish Highway for large shrimp in July when they are in season.  You can purchase them either plain or seasoned. Check out Ocracoke Seafood Company at 416 Irvin Garrish Highway.

What to Read: 

  • Blackbeard the Pirate:  A Reappraisal of His Life and Times, by Robert Earl Lee

Photo Guide for Ocracoke Island

  • The Outer Banks Scenic Highway that runs along the island for photos of the wild mustangs
  • Ocracoke Harbor
  • Ocracoke Island Lighthouse

Disclosure:   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

Cruising the Pullmantur Sovereign- COMPANY CLOSED

UPDATE:  During the COVID Pandemic, Pullmantur announced liquidation of the company.  As of November 2020, the company stated that it would be up and running again by the end of 2021.

Having come off of a whirlwind two-day visit to Rome, I boarded the Pullmantur Sovereign for a seven day cruise through the Mediterranean.  The spectacular itinerary included some of the most beautiful sites the Med coast has to offer.  With a full week of excursions, I could just sit back, relax and enjoy the cruise.

Pullmantur is a cruise line based out of Spain and is very popular with the Europeans.  The primary language on board is Spanish, but announcements are followed up in English. This piqued my interest along with the fact that alcoholic beverages are included in the price of the cruise.  I had learned about the company while searching for a cruise on the Vacations to Go website and booked it immediately.

So why did I choose Pullmantur?  First there was the itinerary of course, but having checked the cost of cruises in the Mediterranean, I found this to be quite economical at US $349 for 7 days (not including port fees and taxes).  AMAZING!  In addition, the price for my roundtrip ticket to Rome was only $850 so I could not pass up the opportunity and knew that I was going to have the time of my life.

Travel Tip:   I took this cruise in late September, which is considered off-season.  The weather is still quite warm and the children have all gone back to school by this time.  

My journey began in Rome where I had a couple of days to wander the ancient ruins, historical museums and religious places of worship.  It was my first time in The Eternal City, so to be honest, I was slightly overwhelmed.  I had booked the hop on, hop off bus because I knew it would be an economical way to explore the sites costing me only $50. The bus route listed a number of stops where the main attractions were within a couple of blocks.  I was able to step off of the bus for an hour or two, return back to the drop off location and reboard at my convenience.

The day of my cruise had arrived and I had hired a car to take me to Civitivecchia, which lasted approximately 45 minutes.  Upon arrival at the port, I was pleasantly surprised that there were no long check-in lines.  Within minutes, I had passed through security, boarded the ship and dropped off my luggage in my room.  When I inquired how the process of embarkation could be completed so quickly, I learned that Barcelona was the originating port.  Rome had less than 100 passengers boarding on that day and I was excited to start my adventure.

To learn more about my adventures in Rome, check out my following blog posts!

Visiting Rome – Day 1
My First Trip to Rome – Day 2
St. Peter’s Basilica
St Peter’s Square
The Roman Forum
Palatine Hill
Capitoline Hill
From Piazza Popolo to the Spanish Steps

Next stop Livorno!

Livorno is a port town located in the northern region of Italy.  It is the perfect location for day trips to Florence, Tuscany and the colorful villages along the coast like Portofino.  There are several tours that operate from the ship and I selected the Pisa and Tuscan Wines tour.  If I had the opportunity to cruise this ship again, I would definitely choose the Coast of Cinque Terre and Porvenere! There were so many great options!  To hear about my exciting day in Pisa and Lucca, check out my following blog posts for some great information about these two spectacular locations!

Pisa and Its Leaning Tower
An Afternoon Wine Tasting in Tuscany

Additional excursions from the ship:

  • Florence and Pisa: This excursion includes a guided tour of the Renaissance city of Florence with stops that include the Cathedral of Santa Maria dei Fiori, the Ponte Vecchio bridge and Piazza della Signora.  The next stop on the tour is Pisa to see the famous Leaning Tower and to roam the Piazza dei Miracoli.  The cost per adult is 85 Euros.
  • The Best of Florence begins in the historic center with views of the Piazza da Santa Croce and the Ponte Vecchio. Visit the Uffizi  Gallery with some of the world’s most famous art by renowned Renaissance artists such as Leonardo Da Vinci and Michelangelo.
  • Lucca the Fortress City: Explore the wonderful city of Lucca that dates back to the Roman period of 180 BC.  The guided tour includes a visit to the Old Quarter, San Michele de Foro, the Guinigi family tower, a Roman amphitheater and the Cathedral of San Martino.  The cost for this tour is 38 Euros.
  • The Coast of Cinque Terre & Portvenere: For 77 Euros per person, a bus will take visitors to Manarola, which is the oldest of the Cinque Terre villages.  Take a tour of the area and then a boat ride to Vernazza.  From here, catch the ferry to Monterosso where lunch will be served with time to explore the town and shop. Another scenic boat ride will take passengers to Portovenere until returning back to the ship in Livorno.
  • Italian Pasta Experience: The coach will take you to Lucca where a tour guide will give you an overview of the beautifully walled city.  See the narrow streets while visiting the churches of San Frediano and San Michele. There will be plenty of time to wander before visiting Pisa.  Learn how to make pasta and of course, there will be plenty to sample.  The cost for this tour is 188 Euros per person.
  • Florence and Wine Tasting in a Tuscan Castle: Take a 90 minute bus tour through Renaissance Florence before arriving at the Piazza della Santa Croce.  Here there will be an opportunity to see street performers and shop among the traditional craft shops in the village.  After a 45 minute ride, arrive in Greve at one of the main castles where a traditional Tuscan lunch will be served, and of course plenty of wine.

Our next stop on the itinerary was Villafranche, France.  I remember the beautiful, subdued hues of this cozy port town and wished I had the additional time to visit the relaxing cafes along the harbor.

I opted to book the Monaco and Monte Carlo bus trip which was panoramic, pristine and posh.   To learn more about my visit to Monaco, check out the following post!

The Beautiful French Riviera:  Villafranche and Monte Carlo

Some of the other excursions available were:

  • Nice – Eze: Take a coach tour to Nice and walk the famous “Promenade des Anglais”. Check out the Hotel Negresco before taking a guided tour through the old part of the city.  The medieval village of Eze is one of the most picturesque villages of the Cote d’Azure located high on a hilltop with amazing views of the coast.  Stop by one of the famous perfumery’s which is known for its amazing scents.  The tour is 45 Euros per person.
  • Nice and Saint Paul de Vence: In addition to visiting the famous beachfront of Nice, this tour also includes a walk through the medieval village of Saint Paul de Vence. Considered two of the most picturesque locations in the French Riviera, go from walking the beach to exploring cobblestone streets with a rich history. The cost for this tour is 39 Euros per person
  • Mountain Village of Eze and Nice Wine Tasting: For only 69 Euros per person, take a visit to the medieval mountain village of Eze and then on to Nice, famous for its Promenade des Anglais.  Enjoy Provencal wines with a professional oenologist.
  • Dream Villas in the Blue Coast: Explore the luxurious peninsula at Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and visit the one time residence of baroness Rothschild to wander the home and gardens. The bus tour takes the coastal drive back to Villafranche where million dollar homes line the coast.   This tour costs 50 Euros per person.
  • A Tasting Tour of Nice: Visit the local fresh market and sample its produce on this guided tour of Nice.  Visit the Old Town district with its Baroque buildings and neo-classic colonnades.  Try some of the local specialties such as pissaladiere or socca.  The tour allows for some free time to wander about the Old Town for some shopping or a cup of coffee.  This tour costs 90 Euros per adult.

I had been waiting for the day when our ship reached Barcelona.  I was so excited to see all of the architecture and to stroll the street of Las Ramblas.

I had decided that instead of booking an excursion with the ship, I would go out on my own and purchase the Hop On Hop Off bus tour.  Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate and there was a torrential downpour.  I was determined to make the most of my time in Barcelona where was able to visit the Boqueria market, the Sagrada Familia, Palau Guell and Parc Guell.  I wished I had more time in Barcelona because there were so many interesting points of interest, that I will need to make plans for a future trip!

The ship offers its own wonderful share of excursions for Barcelona to include:

  • A Tour of Barcelona: See the architectural wonders of Antonio Gaudi by visiting the ever changing Sagrada Familia.    This tour is perfect for the price at 29 Euros.  Check out the popular Gothic Quarter, shop and visit the cathedral.  The tour includes a stop at Montjuic, which overlooks the city and was once the sight of the Olympic Games.
  • Barcelona Highlights and Jamon Tasting: Starting in the Gothic Quarter, see the medieval side of Barcelona’s historical buildings.  Stroll Las Ramblas, the main thoroughfare that runs north and south through the city.  Enjoy a ham tasting sampling three different types as you sip on a glass of cava. Complete the tour with a visit the to ever so vibrant Boqueria market.  All of this for only 39 Euros per person.

Day Four was spent at sea as we sailed toward Tunisia.  The following day, we arrived at the port of Tunis.  Weeks before cruising to Tunisia, the US embassy was attacked and it was recommended that Americans should not disembark while in port.  We took heed to their warning and stayed aboard, but if I had the opportunity, I would have loved to have seen the city of Carthage and the village of Sidi Bou Said, which is said to look much like a Greek village with its whitewashed buildings accented in blue.

According to the brochure on the ship, “Sidi Bou Said is perched high atop of a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean, this picturesque village is a delightful place for a leisurely stroll through winding cobbled streets. Wander around the boutiques for souvenirs or relax at a cliff-side Moorish café”. Sounds exciting!

UPDATE:  The ship no longer travels to Tunisia due to the heightened safety alert to visit this country.

It was Day Five and we were visiting the Italian city of Naples.  Besides having its own historical significance, there are some great locations close by that are truly worth exploring. I selected Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast but making my decision was not an easy one when tours to Capri and Ischia were also offered.

  • Panoramic Tour of Pompeii and Naples: Check out one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in all of the world, Pompeii. Back in Naples, visit the Posillipo neighborhood, the Mergellina district and the great seaside promenade. Take the opportunity to visit the Ovo castle in the charming district of Santa Lucia and explore the busy fisherman’s neighborhood.  The tour costs 49 Euros per adult.
  • Pompei & Vesuvius: Pompeii was devastated by the explosion of Mt. Vesuvius in 49AD.  Pompeii is now an archaeological site and Vesuvius a national park.  Take an hour long city bus tour of Naples before reaching these sites.     The tour costs 89 Euros per person.
  • Capri: Catch a Jet-Foil boat ride from the port of Marina Grande through the Bay of Naples.  Hop on a ship that will take you around the island before heading back to port.  Catch the minibus to Capri’s Piazetta where there will be plenty of time to stroll the city’s famous white streets.  This tour is well worth the 89 Euros per adult. (If the weather does not cooperate, the excursion will head over to the town of Anacapri).
  • Tour of Naples: Stroll the Piazza del Plebiscito where you will discover Castles, Galleries and an Opera House.  There will be time on your own before visiting the San Gennaro Duomo.  Continue to the tour with stops at Mergellina, Via Caracciolo and the Ovo Castle.   You can’t beat this price at 34 Euros per adult.
  • Relaxing Ischia: This is a perfect excursion for 85 Euros per adult. Reach the island quickly by hydrofoil for a visit to Ischia, the largest isle on the Gulf of Naples. Famous for its hot springs, the tour coach also takes you through the municipalities of Ischia, Barano, Serrara Fontana (for wine sampling) and Forio (for a local meal).  Walk through the Castiglione Gardens at Lacco Ameno and or visit the town of Casamicciola. This tour include the spa facilities at the gardens which include 10 different pools, and two saunas, whirlpools and a platform that gives you the opportunity to swim in the sea surrounding the island.

I had one last day in Rome but since I was staying close to the airport, I decided to stay near the hotel.  The ship offered quite a few options in Rome, including:

  • A Full Roman Excursion: Check out some of the most iconic spots in Rome which include, the Vatican City, Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel.  Stand in awe in front of Michelangelo’s Pieta and then it’s time for lunch.  Hop on the bus for a sightseeing tour to see the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus and Mussolini’s balcony,   The tour cost is only 85 Euros per adult.
  • Eternal Rome and Imperial: Start in the Vatican  City to visit St. Peter’s Basilica and the square.  Take a walk to the Trevi Fountain and then after lunch, check out the Piazza Navona.  Before completing the tour, drop by the Roman Forum and see the exterior of the Colosseum. All of this for only 64 Euros per person.
  • Etruscan Secrets. See the secret Etruscan tombs and the Tarquinia Museum for only 59 Euros per person. The tombs are located in Monterozziune and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Venture into the city to view the Roman church of San Francisco and the XIII century palace.
  • Tivoli and Hadrian’s Villa: Dating back to the second century, Villa Adriana was the home of Emperor Hadrian and is now a World Heritage Site. Some of the features of the house include a Greek theater, spas and baths, a maritime theater and the Golden Piazza, a residential complex.  Next, visit Villa Este with gardens that are fit for a king.  Check out the Alley of the Hundred Fountains. This is an exceptional tour and will set you back 115 Euros per adult.

The Pullmantur Sovereign was the perfect ship for my Mediterranean trip.  Having worked on ships for over three years,  I remember my cruise ship days as if it were yesterday.  I was especially fond of the “Sail Away” events where I could watch passengers enjoy the start of their cruise setting sail for its first destination.  It have to admit, I wasn’t going to pass up the opportunity for a Bon Voyage drink!!

Have you cruised with Pullmantur?  I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for your interest in my trip with Pullmantur!  Happy Travels!

Key West, Florida – Looking Back on My First Visit in 1989

What is the first thing that comes to mind when someone mentions Key West? The gorgeous sunsets at Mallory Square?  The tenacious pub crawlers along Duval Street or the eclectic festivities that give the island its signature flair?

I didn’t know what to expect on my first visit to Key West.  I was only 19 years old working on a cruise ship and it was the first stop on our itinerary before traveling to Cozumel.   My fellow pursers guaranteed that I would love Key West, but I could not have imagined how many memories I would make here.  This magical place seemed more like a Caribbean island than a Florida port of call.

There was so much to learn about Key West that summer.  I booked a lobster dive, visited the Treasures of the Atocha museum and watched Jimmy Buffett perform at a local bar.  Rich with history and a unique culture unto its own, it is no doubt,  Key West is unlike any other place I have ever visited in the US.

Originally given the Spanish name Cayo Hueso (Bone Cay), Key West was once a settlement of the Calusa people, an Indian tribe known for their fierce, war-like disposition.   The English, mispronouncing the name, would later call it “Key West”.

The island was also a popular hideout for pirates who attacked Spanish treasure ships sailing from the Caribbean to Spain.

By 1912, the coral islands of the Keys would become accessible by rail with the completion of Henry Flagler’s railroad. Damaged by hurricane winds in 1935, the rail line was abandoned and replaced by the 123-mile Overseas Highway.
000 Key West - Most Southern PointTouring the island by trolley was my favorite way to explore the island.  The open-air tram made its way through town, stopping at several historical landmarks.

I remember how excited I was to reach one of Key West’s most popular sites, the Southernmost Point of the Continental U.S.   Standing at the corner of South and Whitehead Streets, I was surprised to learn I was closer to Cuba than Miami.  This cute little bouy-like structure attracted visitors from all over the world and the line for a photo was worth the wait.

At the top of the monument, there is a reference to Key West as “The Conch Republic.” The trolley guide explained that on April 23rd, 1982, the island seceded from the mainland with the desire to establish itself as its own country.  The events leading to this decision began when US border patrol set up a checkpoint at the entrance to Key West.  This border stop infuriated residents when a 17-mile traffic jam occurred and began to interrupt Key West’s tourism industry.  When the government refused to listen, Mayor Wardlow decided to declare war on the United States.  Within one minute, he quickly surrendered and applied for foreign aid in the amount of one billion dollars.   This publicity stunt resulted in the US government agreeing to remove the inspection station and life in Key West went back to normal.

For the conchs of Key West, the 1982 Conch Republic secession is celebrated each year with a ten-day festival taking place around April 23rd. Among the festivities are a Pirate’s Ball, the Conch Crawl and a Musical that reenacts the events of the secession.

Hemingway House, Key West

I caught the next trolley from the Southernmost Point and disembarked at the Ernest Hemingway Home.   The beautifully restored two-story home is located at 907 Whitehead, across from the Key West Lighthouse.  Hemingway wrote many of his great novels here from 1931 to 1939 including “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”, “The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber”, “Green Hills of Africa” and “To Have and Have Not”.

I enjoyed a tour of Hemingway’s home, the property and his inspirational studio overlooking the pool.  Following the guided tour, I opted to take a second stroll of the home to explore the gardens of hibiscus, jasmine and gardenias.

One of the highlights of my visit was watching the Hemingway’s cats lounging among the lush tropical plants outside.  Descendants of Hemingway’s beloved polydactyl (many toes) cat Snowball, the nearly fifty felines have taken up residence in this luxurious estate.

The Bull - Key West

My final ride on the trolley returned me to Duval Street.  A popular hub of restaurants, bars, shops and museums, cruise ship passengers could participate in the “Duval Pub Crawl” with a stop at the Bull and Whistle.  Known as the “oldest Open Air Bar in Old Town Key West”, it is located on the corner of Duval and Caroline Street.  The Bull, located on the ground level, showcases a beautifully hand-painted mural, paying homage to a number of the island’s influencers.   Yankee Jack has been entertaining patrons of the Bull with his performance of “On the Walls of the Bull”.

The Whistle is the bar upstairs providing great views of Duval Street and the opportunity to shoot a few games of pool.  The Garden of Eden is the bar located on the third floor for visitors interested in a clothes optional environment.

Joe at The Bull in Key West

Before leaving the Bull and Whistle, I begged one of my colleagues to pose next to “The Bull” on Caroline Street.

000 Duval Walk, Key West

Duval Street is just over a mile long running north and south of the island.  The most well-known bars of Key West include Sloppy Joe’s, Rick’s Bar Key West, Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville Cafe, Irish Kevin’s,  Captain Tony’s and Hog’s Breath Saloon.

Each year, Sloppy Joe’s pays homage to famous author Ernest Hemingway by staging its annual Ernest Hemingway look-alike contest.

000, Beautiful Sunset in Key West

My day in Key West had come to a close but I had one more attraction to experience.  I had arrived at Mallory Square with plenty of time to enjoy the live entertainment and secure a pier-side seat to watch the spectacular sunset.  The plaza was bustling with arts and crafts stands, food carts and street performers.  I waited in anticipation as sailboats glided by and catamarans drifted off into the horizon.  I took several photos of this unforgettable moment and looked forward to experiencing it again on my return.

What is one of the most memorable sunsets that you have seen in your travels?   I would love to hear about it!   Tell me about your experience or recommendations for places to visit in the comments section below!   Many thanks for reading my post about Key West and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Southernmost Point
At the corner of South and Whitehead Streets
Key West, FL 33040

  • Admission Fee:  Free
  • Hours: Open 24/7
  • Tips for Your Visit: The trolleys drive by The Southernmost Point and a drop off location for the shuttle is nearby. There may be a line to wait to take your photo at the buoy.

The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum
907 Whitehead Street
Key West, FL  33040
Phone:  305 294 1136

  • Admission Fee:  Adults, $13 and Children, $6,  group rates may apply (12 or more)
  • Guided Tour:  Admission includes a 30-minute guided tour
  • Hours:  9AM to 5PM, 365 days per year, including ALL holidays
  • Tips for Your Visit:  The museum is home to many cats and may affect those with cat allergies.

Mallory Square
Address:
400 Wall Street
Key West, FL  33040

  • Cost:  Free
  • Hours:  Open 24/7;  best time to visit is during sunset
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Arrive early because the square fills up with spectators who are visiting to watch the sunset.  Festivities begin 2 hours before sunset.

Where to Stay:

Heron House
512 Simonton Street
Key West, Florida 33040
Toll Free Number:  800 294 1644

I absolutely loved this property with the accommodations surrounding the pool.  The plants and foliage are thick and provided much appreciated privacy during our visit!  The rooms were spacious and there was a complimentary breakfast provided each morning!

Where to Eat:

There are so many colorful restaurants with a variety of cuisine in Key West that selecting one place is incredibly difficult.  Because I have a love for Cuban Sandwiches and Oysters, here are my two recommendations:

Half Shell Raw Bar
Waterfront dining
231 Margaret Street – 305 294 7496

Oysters, oysters and more oysters!  Food & Wine Magazine voted the restaurant “Best Local Oysters.”  I ordered a half dozen lightly steamed oysters with hot sauce and crackers along with an order of the conch fritters appetizer which included six fritters served with cocktail sauce.

What to Eat:

  • Key West pink shrimp – said to be sweeter than other shrimp
  • Conch – a tough, hardy mollusk usually cooked as fritters
  • Seafood  – snapper, grouper and lobster
  • Key Lime Pie – a tangy, creamy dessert made from key limes

Where to Drink:

The Bull and Whistle
On the corner of Duval and Caroline Streets
Key West, FL  33040
Phone:  305.296.4545

  • Hours:  10AM to 4PM, daily
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Note that the rooftop bar, the Garden of Eden is clothing optional.  Check out the website for coupons before you visit.

Cuban Coffee Queen (two locations)
284 Margaret Street – 305 292 4747
5 Key Lime Square – 305 294 7787

I started with a Cafe con Leche, the strong Bucci coffee with steamed milk.  I loved the Cuban Mix sandwich because it was the closest to an authentic Cuban sandwich with a side of black beans.  Save room for Key West’s famous Key Lime pie!

What to Read:  

  • Ernest Hemingway books
  • Jimmy Buffet:  The Key West Years, by Tom Corcoran
  • Hemingway’s Girl, by Erica Robuck
  • The Best Key West Trivia Book Ever! by David L. Sloan

Photo Guide for Key West: 

  • 801 Bourbon Bar (cabaret and karaoke) for interesting characters
  • Duval Street for the drinking crowds and colorful shops
  • Higgs Beach Pier, for amazing sunrises
  • Mallory Square, especially at sunset
  • San Carlos Institute for Cuban history
  • Smather’s Beach for long exposures during the day
  • The Strand, after dark for the neon lights
  • The Tropic Cinema, at night for the neon lights

Disclosure:   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.

New Orleans, the Perfect City to Start Your Cruise

It took me by surprise when I learned that I would be transferring to another ship mid-cruise with Bermuda Star Lines.  I had recently joined the Vera Cruz in Tampa when the Chief Purser explained that I would be signing on to the Queen of Bermuda later that week.  The move would take place while both ships were anchored off of the port of Cozumel and my new port of origin would be New Orleans.   Another port, another city to be explored.

Little did I know that the Crew Purser position would leave me with limited time to visit this amazing city.  I was in charge of customs and immigration for the ship, so while we were docked, I was processing the paperwork and contracts for the officers and crew in preparation for sailing.

Close to the port was the Riverwalk Marketplace (now the Riverwalk Outlets), an elaborate shopping plaza and food court which was perfect for grabbing a quick bite to eat.  The dining area was located upstairs and there were quite a few options for lunch, including some of the local Cajun and Creole cuisine.

On days where I had an extra hour or two, I would stroll away from the food court and enjoy my lunch at the Riverwalk Fountain, located in the Spanish Plaza nearby.

Each week I yearned to meet up with friends in the French Quarter.  They told me about all of the shops and restaurants that they had visited which only made me want to jump ship and check them out for myself.

The time had finally come when I had completed my contract and I would be taking a six week break to visit family and friends.   The ship’s agent knew how much I wanted to see New Orleans so he arranged my travel itinerary so that I would have a few hours to spend here before catching my flight.  I was more than excited to finally venture out past the confines of the Riverwalk and to explore “The Big Easy” for myself.000 Jackson Square, NOLA

With my long list of historical sites and points of interest in hand, what better way to start my exploration than to visit The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis King of France?  One of New Orleans’ oldest cathedrals and most notable landmarks, it is the perfect showcase of the city’s French architecture with its elegant spires, clock tower and extravagant courtyard.

Approaching the cathedral straight on was enough to take my breath away.  Taking center stage in the square is a statue of General Andrew Jackson sitting atop his bronze horse.  Beautifully designed after the spectacular Place des Vosges in Paris, I would have never guessed that public executions took place here in the 18th and 19th centuries.  Today it is a popular location for artists, fortune tellers and tarot card readers.

000, Fountain at Pat O'Briens, NOLA

Soon it was lunchtime and my shipmates highly recommended that I visit Pat O’Brien’s in the French Quarter. I was offered a lovely seat by the fountain in the courtyard and I placed an order for gator bites and the restaurant’s signature drink, the Hurricane.  I was beginning to feel miles away from civilization.  I wasn’t sure if it was the rum from the Hurricane or the relaxing atmosphere of the outdoor garden.

Bourbon Street, New Orleans, LA

After paying my bill, I enjoyed strolling the streets of The French Quarter. I knew that Bourbon Street was close by and I couldn’t resist taking a few photos.  During the daylight hours, New Orleans seems like a sweet, southern hospitality kind of town with a rich history and fabulous restaurants.  It’s when the sun goes down that the French Quarter comes to life and continues on until the early hours of the morning.  The streets are packed with tourists collecting beads and enjoying frozen drinks with names such as High Octane and Mind Eraser.

French Market, New Orleans

I had only a couple of hours until I needed to catch a taxi to the airport, so my final stop brought me back to The French Market.  Our ship’s agent would bring us beignets and coffee from Café du Monde and it was that time in the afternoon when I was ready for a café au lait and a last stroll through the shops. I could smell the fresh seafood and the local Cajun and Creole spices for which New Orleans is known.  I placed my order for some jambalaya and enjoyed every bite before saying goodbye to The Big Easy.

Is there a place where you have traveled that brings back fond memories?  Maybe it was a childhood vacation spot a business trip that you frequented?  I would love to hear about that special place if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading my post about New Orleans and wishing you many Happy travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

Spanish Plaza
2 Canal Street
New Orleans, LA  70130

The Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Louis King of France (also known as St. Louis Cathedral)
615 Pere Antoine Alley
New Orleans, LA  70116
Telephone:  504 525 9585

  • Admission Fee:  Free, with the option to leave a donation
  •  Hours:  Open daily from 8:30AM to 4PM with daily mass held at 12:05PM.
  •  Amenities:  Gift shop, can light candles for a charge of $2,
  •  Guided Tours and Informational Booklets:  Self-guided brochures are available for a $1 donation.  Guides are available for groups with a prior reservation.
  • Length of Visit:  1 hour
  • Tips for Your Visit:  The cathedral may be closed on Saturdays due to weddings, so check their website to inquire if a wedding is on the schedule.  Please respect fellow visitors who may be entering the cathedral for prayer and refrain from taking photos during mass.

Where to Shop:

The Outlet Collection at Riverwalk
500 Port of New Orleans
New Orleans, LA  70130
Telephone:  504 522 1555

  • Open:  Monday – Saturday: 10AM – 9PM; Sunday: 10AM – 7PM

French Market
700 – 1010 Decatur Street
New Orleans, LA  70116
Telephone:  504 522 2621

  • Hours:  The market is open daily from 9AM to 6PM.   The Farmer’s Market is open from 10AM to 6PM on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
  •  Amenities:  Shopping, food, crafts bazaar, flea market and live entertainment
  •  Length of Time to Spend at The French Market:  2 – 3 hours

Where to Stay:

Omni Royal Orleans Hotel
621 Saint Louis St.
New Orleans, LA  70130
Toll Free Number:  866 538 9295

This hotel is located in the middle of all of the action in New Orleans!  It is an absolutely beautiful property with a rooftop terrace, outdoor pool and balconies with a street view!

Where to Eat:

Acme Oyster Bar  – affordable seafood!
735 Iberville Street
Telephone: 504 522 5973

Try the oysters or a local po-boy sandwich or if you have a bigger appetite, the New Orleans Medley allows you to try a sampling of gumbo, jambalaya, red beans & rice and grilled smoked sausage.

Brennan’s – upscale Creole cuisine since 1956
417 Royal Street
Telephone:  504 525 9711

This is one of my favorite restaurants in New Orleans not only because the food is so fabulous but its courtyard and patio are picturesque and remind me of dining at a southern plantation. During a recent visit, I ordered the Roasted Oysters prepared with smoked chili butter and a manchego cheese crust.  For my entree, I decided to order a selection from the starters section and could not wait to try the New Orleans BBQ Lobster.  The wine list is extensive with over 30,000 bottles on site!  We ordered a bottle of Bartolo Mascarello.  Save some room for their signature dessert which is the Bananas Foster and is world-renowned!

Court of Two Sisters – Jazz brunch buffet, expensive
613 Royal Street
Telephone:  504 522 7261

Once a home for a Louisiana governor, this restaurant is one of the most accommodating eateries in New Orleans with four dining rooms and a French menu to die for.  David had been begging me to try the Turtle Soup and it seemed as though every restaurant we visited, it was on the menu.  I started out with the Turtle Soup Au Sherry, which was actually quite good, but I will probably not order it again.  At least I can say I tried it and I hope he doesn’t encourage me to try the Frog Legs!  For my main entree, I could not pass up the Vegetarian Lasagna to save some room for the Creme Brulee!

Commander’s Palace, Creole and Jazz brunch buffet
1403 Washington Avenue
Telephone:  504 899 8221

A New Orleans landmark, this restaurant is the epitome of Creole and Louisiana cuisine! It is here that I first experienced Creole gumbo and Crawfish. Note that there is a dress code for Commander’s Palace.

Many people visit New Orleans to experience Emeril Lagasse’s restaurants and here are the links to these wonderful establishments as well!  I have not had the pleasure of visiting his restaurants as they are usually booked far in advance!  It is best to call ahead for reservations!

NOLA
534 St. Louis Street
Telephone: 504 522 6652

Meril
424 Girod Street
Telephone:  504 526 3745

Emeril’s New Orleans
800 Tchoupioulas Street
Telephone:  504 528 9393

Emeril’s Delmonico
1300 St. Charles Avenue
Telephone:  504 525 4937

What to Eat :

  • Crawfish Etoufee  – shellfish over rice, using a technique called “smothering”
  • Andouille Gumbo – a stew consisting of a strong-flavored stock with meat or shellfish, a roux, celery, bell peppers and onions. Andouille is a type of spicy sausage usually included in gumbo.
  • Jambalaya– a dish of meat and vegetables mixed with rice
  • Beignets – fried fritters, sometimes filled with fruit and topped with confectioner’s sugar
  • Zapp’s Potato Chips!– a thick cut, kettle style potato chip that includes cajun and creole spices.  My favorite flavor is the spicy cajun crawtators!

Where to Drink: 

Pat O’Brien’s Bar
718 St. Peter Street
New Orleans, LA  70116
Telephone:  504 525 4823

  • Hours:  The bar opens daily from noon; the piano lounge show typically begins at 6PM and the courtyard is available from 11AM;  The kitchen is open until 10PM.
  • Amenities:  Restaurant, bar and live entertainment
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Try Pat O’Brien’s signature drink, The Hurricane.  Additional specialty drinks on the menu include The Cyclone, Bloody Mary, Pat O’s Lemonade, Mint Julep, Skylab, Rainbow, Pat O’s Rainstorm, Category 5 Margarita, Fuzzy Leprechaun.  For a small fee you can keep the souvenir cup, which your server will carefully wrap up for you.  The piano bar is extremely fun to sing along with the dueling pianos and check out the flaming fountain at night, which is absolutely spectacular!

What to Read: 

  • New Orleans, DK Eyewitness Travel, by Marilyn Wood
  • A Street Car Named Desire, by Tennessee Williams
  • Interview with the Vampire, by Anne Rice
  • The Axeman of New Orleans: The True Story, by Miriam C. Davis
  • Voodoo Dreams, by Jewell Parker Rhodes

Photo Guide for New Orleans:

  • French Quarter:  The architecture is absolutely stunning, so look for the Creole houses with wrought-iron balconies.  Some of the most beautiful buildings in the Quarter include St. Louis Cathedral, the Old Ursuline Convent, as well as the Cabildo.
  • Jackson Square:  The square is located in front of St. Louis Cathedral and was once the location for public execution.  Today, there are musicians and tarot card readers that provide local entertainment and are accustomed to photographers shooting their pics.
  • Food photos are a must in New Orleans, so order a muffaletta, beignet or plate of oysters and shoot away.
  • Garden District:  With million dollar homes lining the street of St. Charles, you will want to hop on the streetcar to explore these amazing homes and their spectacular architecture.
  • Cemeteries of New Orleans:  While St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is home to some of the most famous mausoleums and interesting history, there are several cemeteries which are also accessible by tour.  These cemeteries include St. Louis Cemetery No. 2, Metairie Cemetery, Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, Charity Hospital and Katrina Memorial Cemetery and Greenwood Cemetery.
  • Frenchmen Street is the new Bourbon Street just across the esplanade from the French Quarter.  A safe option for exploring New Orleans at night, visitors can browse a local art market, listen to local music at one of the amazing clubs and explore the fabulous street art throughout this district.

Disclosure:   Please note that the information provided in this post was correct at the time of posting but is subject to change.   Please refer to our blog disclaimer tab for more information.