During my second contract as a purser on the SS Queen of Bermuda, I met with the ship’s agent at the JFK Airport who took me to the port of New York. Another six month contract with a weekly itinerary from New York City to the ports of Hamilton, Bermuda and then on St. George, I knew this was going to be an exciting summer.
A postcard map of Bermuda
Bermuda is one of my favorite islands, not just because I spent the whole summer exploring it, but for its sophistication, laid-back atmosphere and natural beauty. It’s easy to see most of the highlights of Bermuda in one day, but there are so many hidden gems throughout the island. I was excited to discover all of the parishes and learn about the history and people that make Bermuda such a magical place.
A view from the ship in downtown Hamilton
As the ship docked in downtown Hamilton, I cleared customs and headed out with a group of friends to wander the pastel colored streets of Pembroke Parish. I loved coming into Hamilton because of its main street, lined with restaurants, shops and the local grocery.
With the ship docked in Hamilton for three of our four days, I became accustomed to the local hangouts and experienced life as if this island was my home. Of course I enjoyed visiting the local sites, but oftentimes I would make plans to take in a movie at the cinema, or enjoy a fast food dinner at the local KFC.
The ports of call that I often visited during my contract were no longer able to support the large megaships that were built in the 1990s. To accommodate the size of the new cruise liners, Bermuda built a new dock at King’s Wharf Dockyard, located on the west end of the island. Very few ships, if any, dock in the port towns of Hamilton and St. George now that the dockyard is operational.
Regardless of where one’s ship is docked, passengers can easily explore the island of Bermuda during their stay. With a length of 22 miles, it is easy to visit both ends of the island by bus, ferry or scooter. I miss those days of hopping on my weekly scooter rental at Oleander Cycles, but I’m sure I could acclimate to driving on the left side of the road should I return to Bermy.
A few of the port of St. George from the cruise ship
Our last stop on the cruise ship itinerary was St. George. This charming town is located on the more quiet side of Bermuda with its strong history and fabulous selection of tourist attractions. It is here that I was able to sample the island flavor, see its natural beauty and be captivated by spectacular views of the coral colored seashore. If we decided to stay in for the night, we would visit the video store to rent a movie but most of the time we checked into our favorite place, The White Horse Tavern. Located across from the cruise ship’s dock, the restaurant had an outside deck that would accommodate the large crowd of us that were up for a night on the town. Late nights would be spent at Reflections, a dance club just around the corner.
UPDATE: Reflections is no longer in St. George.
Hamilton Parish – Abbot’s Cliff
For the officers and crew, cruise ship life isn’t all about restaurants, shopping and clubs. I learned about Abbot’s Cliff from one of the customs agents that mentioned it had an amazing view of Bermuda once I reached the top. Finding the unmarked dirt path, I battled the tall grass on my moped and managed to avoid some of the big rocks. I was rewarded with one of Bermuda’s best kept secrets with spectacular views of the island.
Located in Hamilton Parish, I was able to access the cliff from Abbot’s Cliff Road at the northern side of Harrington Sound. This is the only marker for the dirt trail that leads to the top, but after witnessing the breathtaking views of the island and surrounding areas, I agreed the trouble to reach the top was well worth the effort.
One of the highlights of my weekly visit to Bermuda was a trip to either Bailey’s Ice Cream & D’Lites or the Swizzle Inn for my favorite Bermuda drink, the Rum Swizzle.
For the best homemade ice cream on the island, I made it a priority to visit Bailey’s Ice Cream as much as possible. I found a wide variety of flavors that included those unique to Bermuda like the “Dark and Stormy” or “Rum and Ginger”. It was never difficult for us to find the beautifully painted, light green cottage located across the street of another Bermuda icon, “The Swizzle Inn Pub and Restaurant”.
Bailey’s Ice Cream and Parlour is located at 2 Blue Hole Hill (in Bailey’s Bay), Hamilton Parish. Hours of operation are from 12:00PM to 6:00PM daily during the summer, closed in the winter.
Close to the Ice Cream Parlour, I could take the footpath access over to the Crystal Caves for a time to cool down. Tourists can swim in the cool water down in the caves for a bit of refreshment from the hot summer sun.
Descending 120 feet below ground, Crystal Caves, one of the largest cave systems in Bermuda. Pontoon-style walkways are provided to access this amazing underground attraction. We walked among the limestone rock stalagmites and stalactites for a surreal experience with a tour guide providing us with a geological overview of the cave. I loved to see the crystal clear waters of Cahow Lake below that reflected the beauty of these spectacular formations.
During the tour I learned that the caves were discovered by two teenage boys in the early 1900’s. The caves were once the property of the Wilkinson family. Further exploration led the family to a fantastical world that would one day become one of Bermuda’s favorite attractions.
There are so many attractions and natural sites to see throughout the island, so I took the time to visit them to enjoy the splendid views, explore Bermuda’s beauty and soak in the beautiful flavors of the island.
I will never forget the summer I spent in Bermuda. I keep in touch with friends there and dream about returning someday soon. Is there a place that brings back fond memories for you? Have you had a chance to return? I would love to know what sites, cities or countries that have made the most impact on you, so please leave a comment below! Wishing you many Happy Travels!
What to See and What to Do:
Abbot’s Cliff
Abbot’s Cliff Road
Hamilton, Bermuda
Crystal Caves
8 Crystal Caves Road
Hamilton Parish, Bermuda Blue Hole Hill
441 293 0640
- Admission Fee: Crystal Caves (along with Fantasy Caves) will cost $22 per adult, children 12 and under, $10 and children under 5 are free. Credit cards are accepted.
- Hours: The caves are open daily from 9AM to 5PM with tours leaving every 20 minutes. Allocate about 75 minutes to explore both of the caves.
- Scenic View: The stalagmites and stalactites of the cave are fantastic.
- Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
- Tips for Your Visit: Wear comfortable shoes and a swimsuit beneath your clothes to enter the underground lake.
Where to Stay:
The Saint George’s Club
6 Rose Hill
St. George’s Parish, Saint George, Bermuda
Telephone: 877 734 3180
Where to Eat:
Bailey’s Ice Cream & D’Lites
2 Blue Hole Hill
Bailey’s Bay, Hamilton Parish, Bermuda
Telephone: 441 293 8605
NOTE: Bring cash because Bailey’s does not accept credit cards.
Where to Drink:
Swizzle Inn
3 Blue Hole Hill
Bailey’s Bay, Hamilton Parish
Telephone: 441 293 1854
The local drink is the rum swizzle made from Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, Gosling’s Gold Seal Rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, grenadine and angostura bitters.
What to Eat:
- Bermudian Gumbo: a type of fish chowder, this soup includes a mix of spices, vegetables and a blend of seafood
- Black Rum Cake: Check out Bermuda Black Rum Cake at the Royal Naval Dockyard. This local favorite is made with dark molasses, dried fruit and walnuts and of course, Gosling’s Black Seal Rum.
- The Codfish Breakfast: boiled or steamed salt cod with potatoes, onions, sliced bananas and a hard boiled egg: Can also be cooked as a patty called a Fish Cake
- Fish Sandwich: fried cod on wheat or raisin bread
- Hoppin’ John: rice and peas
What to Read:
- The Story of Bermuda and Her People, by W. S. Zulli
- Under the Moon Gate, by Marilyn Baron
- A Home with no Roof, by Wayne Whicher
- Captain Devlin’s Captive, by Susanne Saville
Photo Guide for Bermuda:
- Crystal Caves: A visit to this unique location is absolutely breathtaking.
- Front Street Hamilton is one of my favorite places to visit and photograph because of its colorful buildings
- Gibb’s Lighthouse: Climb to the top for spectacular views
- Horseshoe Bay: explore the gorgeous pink coral sands and beautiful blue waters
- Jobson’s Cove: This secluded cove is absolutely romantic.
- Royal Naval Dockyard: With its historical clock tower and stone structure, there are several photos that can be shot from this location
- The Unfinished Church in St. George’s: A Catholic church that has been damaged over time stands without its roof.
- Warwick Long Bay: This beach is the perfect spot for stunning sunrises
- Water Street in St. George for colorful homes showing Bermuda’s Old World Charm
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