Exploring the Caribbean Side of Costa Rica

15 December 20148 February 2025

The view of the Arenal Volcano could be seen from miles away as we approached central Costa Rica. The most beautiful blue background accented the green and grey contrast as thin clouds hovered over the peak. Drawing thousands of visitors to central Costa Rica each year, We had time to explore the volcano one last time before departing for the Gulf Coast where we would reach Puerto Limon. It would be nearly a 7 hour drive to the coast with a stop in Poas.

We could not have had a more relaxing drive with just a few wispy clouds moving through to provide some relief from the hot, burning sun. The trek was absolutely stunning with its scenic views, local gatherings and surprises behind each turn. We shared the drive and I was happy when I could turn the car over, relieving my knuckles from holding so tightly to the steering wheel. I quickly learned that the Costa Ricans drive somewhat aggressively, and the roads are a little unstable along the cliffs.

Reaching nearly 9,000 feet, the Poas Volcano is another one of the most visited attractions in Costa Rica. This protected area in the Central Valley region is Costa Rica’s amazing geothermal feature with a milky blue sulfuric lake at its center. Smoke and steam rise up through the cracks and crevices created in the hot rock. Recorded as the largest active crater in the world, the hot water geyser shoots up over 820 feet high, but at that height is not dangerous to visitors. We hiked up to the crater overlook trail which only takes about 10 minutes each way, measuring .3 miles for spectacular views.

I could have stayed here, mesmerized by its beauty, staring out over the volcano, but we had plans to reach the Caribbean side before nightfall. We took in the amazing view and returned back to hiking the overlook trail leading to the parking lot.

Update: Poas Volcano erupted on October 1, 2019 and the park is temporarily closed.

It took us nearly 8 hours to reach Puerto Viejo, but the ride was incredible with scenic views of farmland and tropical trees. When we arrived on the coast, we were elated to find our hotel and unpack the car to explore the east coast for a couple days.

The next morning we sprinted down to the beach to find a great place to catch some waves and rays. The weather was hot enough to take the cold edge off of the water, so we spent hours surfing the Salsa Brava. We found hammocks to take some time to snack on the local food, especially the fruit and my favorite, ceviche. With our suntans and sun-baked cheeks, we returned back to our room, showered and prepared for dinner and a night on the town.

Our hotel was close to the beach so we didn’t have far to drive. I was ready before everyone else, so I took a seat outside of our room to enjoy the palm trees, beautiful bay iguanas and a gentle breeze. I enjoyed the few minutes to myself just taking in the scenery and wondering what lay ahead for dinner and drinks. I was hoping we could stop by some of the shops as well to find a new bathing suit or cover up and another supply of Sex Wax for our boards.

We all agreed that we wanted to find a beachy restaurant where we could hear the waves and look out onto the water. We could not get enough of the local ceviche and found an eatery that checked all of the boxes, Restaurante Tamara. When it’s a place that the locals eat, it’s sure to be amazing.

A couple of drinks in and Edwin the owner introduced himself to us. He was extremely hospitable and gave us a few tips for local attractions and sites. The fresh seafood was absolutely fabulous, the ceviche did not disappoint and the drinks continued to flow.

After dinner, we walked over to the Salsa Brava Beach Bar for more drinks and dancing. The reggae vibe of Puerto Viejo is infamous and the laid-back music made for a relaxing evening. We were so tired from spending the day at the beach, so we left earlier than usual for another sunny day at the beach tomorrow.

Have you visited Costa Rica? What was your favorite place and do you have any recommendations for where to spend my next stay in this beautiful country? I would love to hear from you if you would leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my journey through Costa Rica and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Arenal Volcano
Alajuela Province, Costa Rica

Poas Volcano
Alajuela Province, Costa Rica

Puerto Viejo Beach and the Salsa Brava wave

Where to Stay:

Casitas Las Flores
Casa Amma Road
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
41001, Costa Rica
Telephone: 506 8343 7810
Website: http://www.casitaslasflores.com/

Where to Eat:

Restaurante Tamara
Avenida 71
Limon, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
70401, Costa Rica
Telephone: 506 2750 0148

What to Eat:

Arroz con Leche is translated to rice with milk and is a popular dessert in Costa Rica. Additional ingredients include milk, cinnamon, salt and lemon zest, making this a delicious end to your meal.
Casado, which means marriage which is an interesting combination of meat such as beef, pork, chicken and fish as well as rice, beans, tortillas, fried platano maduro and salad. In addition, the dish also includes a fruit juice.
Ceviche is raw fish that has been “cooked” with citrus juices.
Gallo Pinto is a mixture of rice and beans with red bell peppers, onions, cilantro and other spices. The secret ingredient is the Salsa Lizano. It is a popular breakfast dish.
Sopra Negra is translated to black soup, which is the base of this delicious soup. Included with the black beans, there are onions, peppers, tomatoes, soft boiled eggs and spicy spices.
Tamales are similar to their Mexican cousin, but there are some differences, one of which is the wrapping. In Costa Rica, tamales are wrapped in banana leaves rather than corn husks.

Where to Drink:

Salsa Brava Beach Bar
100 MTS South Discoteca Stanfords
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
70002, Costa Rica

What to Drink:

Agua Dolce (sweet water): which is sweetened with cane sugar
Cerveza (Beer): Imperial
Guaro: sugar cane liquor which sneaks up on you. Cacique is the most poular brand.

What to Read:

It’s Every Monkey for Themselves: A True Story of Sex, Love and Lies in the Jungle by Vanessa Woods
Oro by Cizia Zyke
Green Phoenix: Restoring the Tropical Forests of Guanacaste, by William Allen
Monkeys are Made of Chocolate: Exotic and Unseen Costa Rica, by Jack Ewing
Costa Rica: A Traveler’s Literary Companion by Barbara Ras, Oscar Arias
The Year of Fog, by Michelle Richmond

Photo Guide for Costa Rica:

Manuel Antonio National Park for wild animals such as sloths and monkeys
Tortuguero National Park for amazing loggerheads and hawksbill
Poas Volcano National Park for its impressive view of the interior of the volcano

Costa Rica’s Jaguar Rescue Center

24 November 201431 August 2024

It was another incredible day of surfing and water sports before we packed up our belongings to continue our journey towards Panama. We made one last stop at the bar to thank our bartender and host for the last couple of days and to say good bye to the friendly toucan. We each ordered an Imperial for the road, took a few photos of the spectacular view of the endless coffee fields and confirmed our route for Playa Chiquita.

The Casas del Caribe in Playa Chiquita was perfect for our short stay. Situated on the beach, we could also reach the little town for dinner, shops, grocery and bars. We were interested in visiting the Jaguar Rescue Center for the day and then make a few stops before arriving back to the house in Playa Palo Seco.

Jaguar Rescue Center is located on the beach of Playa Chiquita and we did not have a difficult time finding it. The refuge was founded by Encar Garcia of Spain and the late trained biologist Sandro Alviani. Built as a temporary home for injured and orphaned animals, there were several other native Costa Rican animals such as sloths, monkeys, birds and reptiles that were briefly held here for veterinary care to ensure their health and safety before returning to the wild.

The highlight of my trip was seeing a black jaguar at the center. Also known as panthers, these amazing creatures are nearly extinct due to illegal hunting and habitat loss. Seeing these elusive big cats are rare and are protected in the country’s reserves and national parks.

In addition to the jaguars, we were able to see the ocelots, wooly possums, baby monkeys and a few sloths. I had the opportunity to feed one of the baby sloths. He was such a tiny little guy and so docile.

A baby monkey had just been brought to the rescue during our visit, too small for human interaction. He had been found on the side of the road without its mother and a motorist rescued him and brought him in for medical care. We learned that his survival rate was excellent and that the reserve would keep him under medical surveillance until he was well enough to thrive back in the wild.

We spent a few hours at the reserve, purchased some Imperial, Cacique Guerra and juice before setting up a chairs on the beach. We had a few drinks before dinner and decided to try out another amazing restaurant and nightclub on the beach. We turned in early that night because we had a long drive ahead of us the next day. It was amazing to fall asleep with tunes of Bob Marley in my mind along with the sounds of crashing waves from the beach. It was one of the best night’s sleep I had experienced in a long time.

What to See and What to Do:

Jaguar Rescue Center
In front of Villas del Caribe
Punta Coclas
41001, Costa Rica
Telephone: 506 2750 0710

Where to Stay:

Casas del Caribe
Oficinas Caribe Sur Limon
Playa Chiquita
70403, Costa Rica
Telephone: 506 8976 7543

Where to Eat:

Paradise 2.0 Beach Hub
25 meters al norte y 100 mts.
al oeste del Supermarcdo El Duende Gourmet
Playa Chiquita Limon Province, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
70403, Costa Rica
Telephone: 506 2750 0544

What to Eat:

Arroz con Leche is translated to rice with milk and is a popular dessert in Costa Rica. Additional ingredients include milk, cinnamon, salt and lemon zest, making this a delicious end to your meal.
Casado, which means marriage which is an interesting combination of meat such as beef, pork, chicken and fish as well as rice, beans, tortillas, fried platano maduro and salad. In addition, the dish also includes a fruit juice.
Ceviche is raw fish that has been “cooked” with citrus juices.
Gallo Pinto is a mixture of rice and beans with red bell peppers, onions, cilantro and other spices. The secret ingredient is the Salsa Lizano. It is a popular breakfast dish.
Sopra Negra is translated to black soup, which is the base of this delicious soup. Included with the black beans, there are onions, peppers, tomatoes, soft boiled eggs and spicy spices.
Tamales are similar to their Mexican cousin, but there are some differences, one of which is the wrapping. In Costa Rica, tamales are wrapped in banana leaves rather than corn husks.

What to Drink:

Agua Dolce (sweet water): which is sweetened with cane sugar
Cerveza (Beer): Imperial
Guaro: sugar cane liquor which sneaks up on you. Cacique is the most poular brand.

What to Read:

It’s Every Monkey for Themselves: A True Story of Sex, Love and Lies in the Jungle by Vanessa Woods
Oro by Cizia Zyke
Green Phoenix: Restoring the Tropical Forests of Guanacaste, by William Allen
Monkeys are Made of Chocolate: Exotic and Unseen Costa Rica, by Jack Ewing
Costa Rica: A Traveler’s Literary Companion by Barbara Ras, Oscar Arias
The Year of Fog, by Michelle Richmond

Photo Guide for Costa Rica:

Manuel Antonio National Park for wild animals such as sloths and monkeys
Tortuguero National Park for amazing loggerheads and hawksbill
Poas Volcano National Park for its impressive view of the interior of the volcano