Bath, England: Ancient Rome’s Influence on the United Kingdom

6 February 202423 September 2024

Bath, England, was once an artists’ paradise where the likes of Jane Austen, the famous writer, made frequent visits as a child. Today, visitors from all over the world are drawn to the historical Roman baths, the beautiful Bath Abbey and the quaint pedestrian square lined with British restaurants and souvenir shops.

On our way to Bath, the countryside was dotted with farms and charming villages as well as picturesque cottages and lovingly tended gardens. Corner pubs seemed to have been plucked from a popular London crossroad and relocated to this rural scene.

The purpose of my trip to Bath was to explore the Roman Baths, the site of Aquae Sulis and the surrounding courtyard, that were built here in the 1^st century AD. Rome’s empire spanned as far as England at the height of its success and this therapeutic pool of water is what remains of Rome’s influence on this area.

Our big red bus dropped us off in the heart of Bath so we followed the crowds making their way to the Roman baths and took in the extraordinary charm of the town. The cobblestone roads and Georgian architecture reminded me of Jane Austen’s book about Bath’s high society in Northanger Abbey and her novel, Persuasion.

The sky had been threatening to rain all morning, but seemed to have held off for now. Our wait in line extended out the doors and around the corner near Bath Abbey and somehow I managed to bring up the end.

While standing in line, I noticed the square was surrounded by four story buildings with shops, restaurants and bakeries on the ground floor open for business. The Roman Baths Kitchen, Jack’s of Bath, tourist center to exchange money, the Cornish Bakery, the Edinburgh Woolen Mill, Hawkin’s Bazaar were well lit and provided a respite from the drizzling rain.

Bath Abbey stands behind me in the Abbey Church Yard in the heart of the city. The dark, carved wooden arched doors, gorgeous stained glass windows and yellow-hued Bath stone are highlights of the Gothic façade, while its crown jewel are the stone angels climbing up Jacob’s Ladder towards heaven. The church is dedicated to Saint Peter and Saint Paul and was formerly a Benedictine monastery founded in the 7^th century.

Our entry into the Roman Baths provided us access to the upper and lower levels of the museum. Following along the top floor of the complex, statues of Roman emperors and British governors lined up at intervals along the terrace overlooking the Great Bath. From this point of view, I clearly noticed the green water of the bath below and wondered if it was warm, as steam seemed to have been coming off of the pool. A doorway led into a dark room where well lit exhibits provided a timeline and explained how Rome transformed the Sacred Spring of Bath into England’s first spa.

The Sacred Spring not only fed into the baths, but was a collection pool for curses and offerings to the gods and goddesses. Metallic inscriptions on lead or pewter contained curses where locals would write the names of the suspects and blaspheme them for their wrongdoing, many times for theft or perjury. Offerings to the goddess included jewelry, personal belongings or even coins. Some of the currency dated back to the Republic when Augustus was Caesar of Rome.

The lower level leads to the Great Bath yet the complex extends beneath the square and streets of town. The water’s natural temperature is a steady 46 degrees Celsius. The pool’s depth is just over five feet and stairs lead down on each side. Tables and benches may have lined the sides of the pool where visitors could enjoy drinks and snacks.

Large pipes of water extended from the Great Bath on the east and west sides creating additional spa features to the complex. The baths were constructed where the patrons would begin with the hottest bath to the coldest. The hot plunge bath, known as the Caldarium, was heated by a system under the floor called the hypocaust. They were constructed of stacks of pilae (tiles) that allowed the heated air to circulate throughout the floors and surrounding walls. The Laconicum, similar to today’s sauna, was a small room with intense heat designed to induce sweating.

The final bathing experience was the cold bath which helped close the pores of the skin. The water would have come from outside of the baths, most likely a nearby cold water spring. The two columns were added in 1904 as additional support when electric trams were installed.

Adjacent to the Roman Baths was the Temple of Sulis Minerva, honoring the native Celtic goddess of the spa, who carried out the curses provided to her in the Sacred Spring. The temple, built in the classical style, had four large Corinthian columns that supported both the Temple Pediment and beautifully decorated frieze. The Temple Pediment, discovered in 1790, is one of the most fascinating relics of the temple. The detail in this piece of artwork is thought to have come from the area of Gaul in the first century AD.

An inscription that was found in the Temple of Minerva is dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva and may have been the podium that supported her statue. Identified as the Haruspex stone, it was committed to the temple by a Haruspex priest L. Marcius Memor, who had the power to provide consulting services and made important decisions for the temple.

Several tombstones and relics on display represent the kinds of people who lived and died near the Roman bath. Many came to Bath, from Europe, leaving their homes to find work here. One stone inscription was identified as the gravestone of Rusonia Aventina who passed away at the age of 58. She came to Bath from Metz, France.

Another fascinating find was the altar where the priests conducted animal sacrifices. Several altar stones and inscriptions were found at the Temple of Sulis Minerva. Discovered in 1965, two of the cornerstones remained in their original positions. The pedestal carvings depicted the Roman gods, such as Bacchus and Jupiter and were thought to have been painted.

The bronze head of Sulis Minerva is one of the rarest objects from Roman Britain as there were only two other fragments of its kind. Discovered in 1727, it is said that it was most likely from the statue of Sulis Minerva that stood in the temple. Dating back to the first century, there are several layers of bronze gilding applied at various stages over time.

Shortly after the discovery of the first century Roman Baths, John Woods and his son revived the town of Bath into a spa resort once again in the 18^th century. They added to the landscape by building The Royal Crescent’s thirty townhomes were decorated with beautiful Ionic columns and Palladian molding. Today it is a museum and houses the Royal Crescent Hotel.

The charm of this town is in its Gregorian architecture and the pedestrian square and it is just as I had imagined it would be, thanks to the writings of Jane Austen.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the charming English town of Bath? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my excursion to Bath from London and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Roman Baths, Bath
Abbey Church Yard
Bath, BA1 1LZ
United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 1225 477785

Admission Fee: £16.50 for adults (18 – 59); £10.25 for children ages 6 -16; children five and under are free; Seniors (65+) are £14.50
Hours: January to February: Open from 9:30AM to 5PM; March 1 – April 18: Open from 9AM to 5PM; April 19 – April 22: Open from 9AM to 7PM; April 23 – June 20: Open from 9AM to 5PM; June 21 – August 31: Open from 9AM to 9PM; Open September – October: 9AM to 5PM; November to December: Open 9:30AM to 5PM
Amenities: local guides, museum, restrooms, audioguides, WiFi throughout the site
Scenic View: Upstairs there are stunning views of the baths below.
Length of Visit: 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Wear comfortable shoes for walking. No re-entry is provided. Photographs are permitted. There is no bathing at the baths.

Where to Stay:

The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa
16 Royal Crescent
Bath, BA1 2LS
United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 1225 823333

Where to Eat:

Sotto Sotto
10 North Parade
Bath, BA2 4AL
United Kingdom
Telephone: +44 1225 330236

What to Eat:

Fish and Chips – fried fish and French fries
Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding – usually eaten from noon to five on Sundays
Full English Breakfast – includes eggs, sausages, potatoes, mushrooms, blood pudding, tomatoes and toast
Pie and Mash – typically a simple steak and kidney pie or pork pies, this is a classic British comfort food served with mashed potatoes and gravy
Bangers and Mash – which is sausage served with mashed potatoes and gravy
Cockles – a small type of clam
Eton Mess – a dessert made of merengue, cream and strawberries
Sticky Toffee Pudding – a moist sponge cake baked with dates or raisins and smothered in toffee sauce served with custard or ice cream
Afternoon tea – with teacakes, scones, jam and clotted cream as well as champagne and tea
Beef Wellington – filet steak covered with pate and wrapped in puff pastry

What to Read:

Northanger Abbey, by Jane Austen
Bath Tangle, by Georgette Heyer
Persuasion, by Jane Austen

Photo Guide to Bath:

The Roman Baths
The Town of Bath

The Roman Baths of Bath, England

Funerary Statue at Bath, EnglandAncient Coins found in the Roman Baths of Bath, England

The Roman Forum: The Sacred Road of Julius Caesar

19 September 202323 September 2024

Strolling along the smooth, round stones of the Via Sacra, I am reminded that “all roads lead to Rome”. To imagine that I was standing at the epicenter of one of the world’s most fascinating civilizations, was hardly a moment I would soon forget. The ancient ruins ahead were a myriad of fragments representing structures that had been constructed over a span of centuries. Other historical buildings remained intact, miraculously surviving the destruction of war and years of plunder.

During the height of its power, Roman streets would have been crowded like a modern day New York City. Religious temples and political basilicas co-mingled together at the heart of Rome’s Republic. Prominent partisan figures settled legal disputes and made daily decisions to keep order among its citizens. While public orators stood on street podiums shouting over the crowds to provide news-worthy updates, the populace remained informed.

The Sacra Via was the most important road of central Rome during the height of its rule. Over the years the Forum’s landscape would undergo several changes as the “sacred road” had to adapt to its reconstruction and restoration. Roman rulers left their mark within the Forum removing monuments and temples only to replace them with their own.

Our first introduction into Roman politics includes a stop at the Basilica of Constantine, also referred to as the Basilica Maxentius. Not to be confused with a place of worship, this Basilica, with its three large arches was considered ancient Rome’s judicial system. What remains is only about one-third of the size of the structure and another set of arches would have stood opposite along the Via Sacra. The space in between was a large hall that would have been as long as a football field made of marble and full of statues, including a gargantuan statue of Constantine, sitting on his throne at the west end of the basilica. The hand of Constantine shows the enormous size of the statue, which is on display in Rome’s Capitoline Museums.

Because the Romans believed that their gods played a major part in the ongoing success of Rome, temples were built to worship these deities to keep them happy. Each god represented an important facet of everyday life. For example, the god of Saturn provided oversight for wealth, agriculture, liberation and time. The Romans also believed that the Emperors of Rome became gods once they had died and temples were erected in their honor as well, such as the Temple of Antoninus Pius and Faustina. The price they must have paid to guarantee their immortality.

When the temple was first erected, the tall, 50-foot Corinthian columns would have supported a triangular pediment displaying a number of brightly colored statues. An inscription on the lintel identifies Antoinus Pius and his wife, Faustina, “divo” and “divae”, representing the deification of the couple. During the medieval times, the structure was pillaged as evidenced by the diagonal marks on the marble pillars.

Since the 12^th century, the temple has been occupied by a church and the green door was once level with the street during the time of Michelangelo. It wasn’t until the 1800s, when the excavation of the site uncovered the long staircase which leads to the current Sacra Via.

The most sacred location in all of ancient Rome was undoubtedly the Temple of Vesta. Only three short columns remain of the circular temple dedicated to the Roman family, where an eternal flame once stood. This holy light was tended by a small group of priestesses known as the Vestal Virgins, who were responsible for keeping the torch lit at all times. Should the light go out, the virgin responsible for manning the flame would be flogged as punishment.

Nearby, located across from the Temple of Romulus, stands the remains of the Atrio delle Vestali (House of the Vestal Virgins). Once a beautiful two-story building, the House of the Vestal Virgins accommodated a small group of elite young ladies who dedicated the prime of their lives to the service of Vesta, the goddess of the hearth and patron of the state.

Selected from the noble families of Rome before the age of ten, this revered organization of girls lived together for a period of thirty years, taking a vow of chastity. If the Vestal Virgin completed her term of service, she was offered a large dowry and could finally marry. However, if she did not adhere to the requirements of her role, she was buried alive.

Each emperor expanded his residence and added more space to his royal palaces. The Palaces of Caligula and Tiberius were initially built upon Palatine Hill, but over time, extended down the hill into the Roman Forum. Although very little remains of the Palace, the underground passageway still exists. Connecting the palace to the Clivus Paltinus Road and the Casa di Livia, this corridor may have well been the location where Caligula was stabbed to death in 41AD.

Our tour guide identified the various points of interest within the Forum to include several temples. All that remains of the prestigious Temple of Castor and Pollux are the three marble, Corinthian columns. Built in the fifth century BC, it is the oldest structure and most photographed site in the Forum. The Romans believed that Castor and Pollux, the sons of Jupiter appeared to water their horses at the Sacred Springs of Juturna and therefore a temple was built in their honor.

At the height of Rome’s power, the city exceeded one million residents. Living in tiny apartments or nearby tents, the area was busy, crowded and dangerous. In addition to crime, fires would break out, destroying the residential structures built mainly of wood.

One of the most popular locations, identified with flowers and cards is the Temple of Julius Caesar (Ara di Cesare). A modest structure with a metal roof marks the spot where Julius Caesar’s body was cremated after his assassination. The temple represents the deification of one of Rome’s most successful Emperors, making Caesar the first Roman leader to become a god.

Compared to the simple memorial for Julius Caesar, the Basilica Aemilia was anything but ordinary. Built in the 2^nd century BC, this meeting hall served as Rome’s local courts to settle a variety of civil disputes and civic matters and handled the enforcement of legal agreements. As a litigious city, it was no doubt the basilica required so much space.

Within close proximity to the Basilica Aemilia was the Curia (Senate House), a political meeting space where the elected Senators of Rome determined the laws of the land. First designed in the 7^th century BC, the Curia was the center of government when Rome became a Republic. The Senate’s President sat at one end while three tiers of wooden seats provided circular seating across from him where they conducted debates. The Comitium, located in front of the Curia is where the Popular Assembly met.

While Julius Caesar was murdered in the Senate House, it was not at this location. At the time of his death, a temporary meeting place had been established across town.

During Caesar’s funeral, it was Mark Antony who gave the eulogy on the elevated podium known as the Rostrum. Built for public announcements, the 10 foot high, 80 foot long platform was a place for citizens to exercise their freedom of speech, while political officials would publicly voice their opinions on a number of partisan issues.

Although the Arch of Septimus Severus is within view of the Rostrum, the structure was not completed until 203 AD, long after Julius Caesar had passed. The triple arch, standing six stories high, represented Severus’ conquest over the Parthians (modern Iran). I have always been fascinated with the arches of the Forum and the propaganda displayed through a series of reliefs and roundels. Etched into the marble, travertine and brick, the Emperors would document their victories forever in stone.

While the Romans loved to build temples in honor of their rulers, the sanctuaries to their gods were just as important to them. They believed that their prosperity and good fortune depended on the happiness of their gods, so they built many shrines to appease them. Many of the structures also served a dual purpose, such as the Temple of Saturn , first built in 495 BC which housed the Aerarium, the state treasury. The wealth and riches from Rome’s conquests would have been stored in the pedestal of the statue of Saturn. Eight Ionic columns and a section of the frieze remains of the entrance to the temple, which was the most honorable shrine in the Forum.

The last monument erected in the forum is a lonely Corinthian column to the left of the Temple of Vespasian and Titus, the Column of Phocas. While the western empire ended in September of AD 476, Phocas became the Byzantine Emperor in Constantinople until he was overthrown in AD 610. By the time the memorial was dedicated to Emperor Phocas in AD 608, the city of Rome was in decline and would eventually come to an end.

So, while our tour did not last as long as the Roman Empire, it too came to an end and we were offered the opportunity to roam the ruins for an additional thirty minutes. Before making our way towards the exit, our guide pointed out a set of brick ruins next to the Arch of Septimius Severus identified as the Umbilicus Urbis. She noted that it was the oldest set of ruins within the Forum and was considered to be the “center of the world”. It was from this point, that all distances from within the Roman Empire were measured. While Rome was once the most powerful epicenter of civilization, it was quickly abandoned in the 7^th century AD, It would take over 1,000 years for this ancient metropolis to be rediscovered and later still to become one of Rome’s most visited historical attractions.

What were your thoughts as you explored the Roman Forum? Do you have another ancient civilization that has inspired you? I would love to hear about your adventures if you would kindly leave a comment below. Many thanks for reading about my visits to the Roman Forum and wishing you many Happy Travels.

What to See and What to Do:

Roman Forum
Via della Salara Vecchia, 5/6
00186 Roma RM, Italy
Telephone; +39 06 0608

Admission Fee: 12 Euros per adult, children under the age of 17 are free; The Admission Fee includes entrance into the Palatine Hill and the Colosseum.
Bus/Train Information: Buses 40, 44, 84, 780 and 810; Metro Station – Colosseo, line B- (blue)
Hours: Open daily from 8:30AM to 3:30PM (closed January 1^st and December 25^th) The ticket counter closes one hour before closing time. Confirm with the Roman Forum’s website: https://turisimoroma.it/cosa-fare/fori
Amenities: audio headsets, tour guides (additional charge)
Audio Guides and Guided Tours: Audio guides are available for a nominal fee.
Length of the Tour: 2 – 3 hours total
Tips for Your Visit: Your ticket to the Roman Forum includes The Colosseum and Palatine Hill. For security reasons, it is strictly forbidden to enter the attraction with backpacks, camping equipment, bulky bags, luggage or trolley. Medium and small-sized backpacks are permitted, but may be screened by metal detectors. Bags may also be opened and visually inspected by security. Wear comfortable shoes and bring your water bottle to refill at the drinking fountains.

Where to Stay:

Hotel Forum Roma
Via Tor de’ Conti, 25, 00184
Rome, Italy
Telephone: +39 06 67 92 446

We lucked out finding this gem of a hotel in the midst of ancient Rome. Make sure to stop by the Roof Garden Restaurant for spectacular views.

Where to Eat:

Iari the Vino
Via del Colosseo, 5
Rome, Italy
Telephone: +39 06 6919 1069

I have to give Peter credit for finding this fabulous spot for lunch. I thoroughly enjoyed the Calamari salad and he ordered the lasagna. Deliciouso!

Trattoria Da Enzo
Via dei Vascellari, 29,
00153, Roma, RM, Italy
Telephone: +39 06 581 2260

This restaurant is outstanding for its artichokes, carbonara dishes and Cacio e Pepe

What to Eat:

Artichokes: steamed or fried
Cacio e Pepe: Cacio is a type of cheese from Rome’s countryside made from sheep’s milk. The dish is served over pasta and seasoned by black pepper.
Carbonara: creamy white pasta served with pancetta and noodles
Gelato: You have not had gelato until you have had it in Rome!
Maritozzi is a popular breakfast pastry with chocolate chips served with espresso. Some maritozzi are filled with cream as well.
Pecorino Romano cheese
Pizza al Taglio is Rome’s answer to pizza with red sauce, meats, vegetables and cheeses. I also love the Italian margarita pizza with red sauce, mozzarella cheese and topped with basil.
Porcetta: Pork wrapped around herbs and roasted on a spit
Saltimbocca is a dish made with veal and sage wrapped in prosciutto, cooked in white wine and butter.
Suppli is considered an Italian snack made of rice and meat with tomato sauce and filled with mozzarella cheese and then deep-fried. It reminds me of arancini in the US.

Where to Drink:

Il Goccetto (for wine)
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14
00186, Roma RM, Italy
Telephone: +39 06 9944 8583

Terrazza Borromini
Via di Santa Maria dell’Anima, 30A
00186 Roma RM, Italy
Telephone: +39 06 6821 5459

While the drinks are pricey, it will be worth the cost for the fabulous views.

What to Read:

Imperium, by Robert Harris
Roma, by Steven Saylor
SPQR, by Mary Beard
The Twelve Caesars, by Robert Grave

Photo Guide for Rome:

Campo de’ Fiori for photos of the market
The Colosseum
Monti for upscale boutiques, restaurants and vintage stores
The Pincio Terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo in northern Rome
The top of St. Peter’s Basilica
Trastevere neighborhood for scenic alleyways, artisan workshops, the piazza at sunset, and tiny boutiques. Find the corner of Vicolo delle Torro off of Via della Lungaretta for photo-worthy pics.
Trevi Fountain

Ephesus, Turkey and the Library of Celsius

22 August 202323 September 2024

The sun shone so warmly on my face as the ship approached the cruise port of Kusadasi. The early brilliance casted shadows upon the hills that dominate the horizon while the dimness crowded out the sight of the fort that lie ahead. Kusadasi is the perfect starting point for visiting some of the most famous historical cities of Turkey. From here I will be taking a shore excursion into Ephesus, where I will have the opportunity to explore a stop on Paul’s journey to spread the gospel of Christianity. So excited to be walking in his footsteps.

The Ephesians believed that Ephesia, the beautiful Amazonian queen, founded their city. The Amazons were considered descendants of the god of war, and thought to have been ferocious warriors. The temple of Hadrian tells of a second theory which credits Androklos as its founder and yet a third ideal states that the inhabitants of nearby Halikarnassus (today’s Bodrum) should be honored as the city’s organizers.

It was a quick bus ride and we arrived at the archaeological site, quickly making our way to the start of our early morning. There are two entrances leading into Ephesus; one is the Harbor Gate, and the other is the Magnesian Gate, which is where most guides begin their tours. The field of ruins that lay ahead of us is made of various fragments and cylindrical features. From where we were standing, we could see the Baths of the State Agora to the right which is an extension of the Agora, or shopping plaza, to the left.

The archaeological finds on this site date back to the 14th and 15th century BC. Only 4 – 5 % of the site has been excavated. Some of these items are housed in the Museum of Ephesus.

The Agora was one of the most important public meeting places during the Roman Empire. It was an open area that combined the civic center, administrative buildings and local market. There is a marble road that leads into the Agora from the entrance from where we are standing. The beautifully restored walkway brought us close to the architecture of the baths and we could closely see the various stone and archways created in this once thriving port town.

According to our tour guide, visitors and residents entering Ephesus by land would have first encountered the Agora. The primary boardwalk known as the Stoa Basileios (The Royal Walk) passed through the city’s most important structures and attractions. This road also provided access to the town’s odeon, which is similar to the theaters and music halls of today.

Passing the Agora we came upon the small town hall which was the office of the local government dignitary. Known as the Prytaneion, it was also used to host banquets for honored guests. In the center of the hall, researchers believed that there was an altar dedicated to the goddess, Hestia. Within proximity to the Prytaneion were additional statues that represented Artemis and were uncovered during the excavation of this well-preserved archaeological site.

Further off into the distance from the Prytaneion are the remains of the Roman Emperor’s Temple of Domitian. This is a two story building where displayed on the second level are the caryatids. These statues were considered a representation of the barbarian peoples that Rome had once conquered during the height of its Empire. I love the detail of these statues and find them to be some of the most well preserved artifacts along our walking tour.

We began making our descent towards a line of columns that represented Curates (Kouretes) Street, which runs between the Library of Celsius and Domitian Street. . We approached the Temple of Hadrian to our right and immediately noticed the empty pedestals that stood in front of the temple. Those men that could afford to have their busts made could also exhibit them in this area to be recognized, in a way to flatter themselves. Hadrian’s Temple was so exquisite that I wondered how it must have appeared in the height of Ephesus’ civilization.

Strolling down Curates Street, we came upon the Hercules (Heracles-Greek) Gate, which separates the uptown from the downtown area of Ephesus. It is a fascinating representation of the local god, Hercules who signified masculinity and strength. Many believed that this triumphal arch was built in the 2^nd century AD but was relocated here two centuries later.

The Fountain of Trajan (Trainus) is also located on Curates Street and is one of my favorite structures in Ephesus. What draws me to this building is the intricate artwork of its sculpted pillars as well as the fountain that once held a statue of the Emperor Trajan.

Across the street from the fountain are some of the most lavish homes of the elite Ephesians. The astounding floor tiles remain intact and display the wealth of the families that once lived here. Directly behind these Terrace Homes is a covered area where artifacts and additional research is being conducted. There is an additional charge to visit this small museum where audio recordings escort visitors through amazing frescoes, mosaics, and fountains that rival those of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The tour of Ephesus is not without its elements of surprise. We arrived at a small area where slabs of marble line up against the wall and learned that they were used as public latrines. There are about forty seats, sitting side-by-side. Our guide explained that the public restrooms were important for conducting business between the men.
ail

The long awaited moment arrived as the Library of Celsus appeared in the distance. A grand structure rising from the ruins, this large two-story structure towered over us as we approached its stairway. The preservation of the library is extraordinary and the details of this building that has been so elegantly preserved.

The glorious marble columns framed the four statues of the library’s façade. Each figure represented the human characteristics of wisdom, excellence, judgment and expertise. It was customary that families of financial means and power would establish monuments or heroons to honor their loved ones. The Library of Celsus was a dedication to Julius Celsus Polemeanus by his son, erected in the early 2^nd century AD.

Inside of the Library of Celsus, we were met with a surprisingly simple structure that contrasted the splendid façade of the building’s exterior. In the ancient world, it was one of the largest libraries housing upwards to 15,000 scrolls. Along the inner walls were recesses that contained rolled manuscripts. This is also the burial place of Celsus, whose vault is located below the ground floor on the north side of the building.

I love the history of large cities such as Ephesus, especially those stories that involve scandal and intrigue. Our tour guide shows us an unassuming tunnel which was, according to legend, a secret passageway. It was said that the men of Ephesus would tell their wives that they were going to the library when in fact they would escape into the local brothel. There is some debate to this theory as the attitude towards sexuality was quite open during this time, but it still makes for a great story.

There were three arches that led out towards the Agora and Grand Theater of Ephesus called the Gates of Mazaeus and Mitridades, named after the slaves that built them. With their prominent Roman style architecture, the gates were built as a dedication to Emperor Augustus. Statues of his family could be seen towering above the arches on the attica, while a relief of the Hecate, the god of crossroads was prominent on the outer walls of the structure. Some sources refer to an inscription that was written on the gates which curses “those that piss here”. I wonder how well that deterred the locals.

Standing in the archway of the gate, I looked out into the Agora where shops once lined the courtyard and stalls were set up in the infield. I imagined the bustling square with the smell of food, domestic animals and sweating bodies crowding into the shopping plaza to make their purchases. This was once one of the most important trading centers in all of Ephesus.

Located just off of the Agora is The Great Theater. At the height of Ephesus’ prosperity, it was one of the largest theaters in the Roman-Greco world.

Following the death of Jesus, His apostles left Jerusalem to spread Christianity to the world. St. John arrived in Ephesus with Mary, the mother of Jesus, somewhere between 37 to 48 AD. John is credited for establishing the first Christian community here. John would later be exiled to Patmos, spending his remaining years on the Greek island.

St. Paul put Ephesus on the map when he arrived around 54 AD, staying for nearly three and a half years and wrote his letters here, including a letter to the Ephesian Christians. Ephesus was also included in his missionary tour and the story of his visit is detailed in the Bible, making it a stop for Christian pilgrimages as well.

Today it is one of the most visited by Christians around the world.

Viewing the theater from below is astounding, but I knew that if I climbed to the top, I would have an extraordinary view of the former harbor and surrounding area. Climbing up the rows of seats, I waited until I reached the top before turning around. Here I was rewarded with a dramatic, overwhelming view of the theater, hills and Harbor Street leading away from the city.

Through all of its splendor, I still find it somewhat difficult to imagine this lively, prosperous city of Ephesus regardless of its extraordinary restoration. This site holds not only historical significance, but biblical and archaeological importance as well. Researchers continue to excavate the city of Ephesus which provides a doorway into the lives of those that once lived here. I look forward to the time when I can return and learn what interesting facts they uncover.

Are you a fan of archaeological sites? What draws you to them? I would love to hear which historical locations you find interesting and inspiring if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many Thanks for reading about my fascinating journey to Ephesus and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Ephesus Archaeological Site
Ataturk Mh
Ugur Mumcu Sevgi Yolu
35920 Selcuk/Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 444 MUZE (6893)

Admission Fee: 60 Turkish Lira; children 12 and under is free of charge.
Hours: The museum is open April – October from 8AM to 7PM, and November 1 – April 15 from 8AM to 5PM
Amenities: Pre-purchase of ticket online, The Terrace Homes (additional cost)
Scenic View: Beautiful views of the Celsus Library and scenes of the surrounding are are spectacular from the arena
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Arrive early in the day as there is limited cover from the sun. One can purchase tickets ahead of time. Private tours can also be purchased at the door. Wear comfortable shoes for walking. You will notice several cats that live at the site.

Where to Stay:

Livia Hotel Ephesus
Ataturk Mah. 1045 Sok. No. 25
Izmir, 39520, Selcuk, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 892 92 99

Where to Eat:

Artemis Restaurant
Sirince Mahallesi, Sehit Yuksel
Ozulku Caddesi No. 7
35920, Sirince, Selcuk, Izmir, Turkey
Telephone: +90 232 898 32 40

I absolutely love the property surrounding the restaurant, near olive groves and vineyards. The 19th century stone building was once a village school

What to Eat:

- Baklava: made with puffed pastry, this dessert has chopped nuts (my favorite is pistachio), and is covered in honey.
- Gozleme is a type of bread that is shaped in a square and stuffed with various fillings such as meat, cheese, potatoes or vegetables and then cooked over a griddle. The cheese and spinach reminds me of spanikopita.
- Iskender Kebab: thinly sliced lamb is smothered in tomato sauce and served with traditional bread, then topped with yogurt and butter.
- Mezze is a sample of several small bites that may include yogurt with herbs, hummus, olives, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), meatballs, eggplant, white cheese and warm bread.
- Simit is a fun street food bread that is similar to a pretzel.
- Turkish Apple Tea is absolutely amazing and was one of my favorite drinks while visiting Turkey.
- Turkish Delight: a delicious dessert is made up of dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, which is pink in color.
- Turkish Ice Cream, also known as Dondurma, is a little thicker in consistency, but it will not melt. A must try.
- Turkish Pizza is outstanding and tastes so fresh. Made from Turkish Pide (a type of pastry), it is similar to a flatbread with a variety of toppings.
- Turkish Ravioli: dumplings stuffed with beef or lamb served with yogurt.

What to Read:

The Ephesus Scroll by Ben Chenoweth
Burning of the Books at Ephesus by Sir James Thornhill
Ancient Ephesus: The History and Legacy of One of Antiquity’s Greatest Cities by Charles River Editors

Photo Guide for Ancient Ephesus:

The Facade of the Celsus Library
View from the Amphitheater

Another view of the Grand Theater and Harbor Street, Ephesus

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus
The Baths of Miletus

The Baths of Miletus

22 July 202323 September 2024

Approaching the archaeological site of Miletus, it is obvious that there is a large influence of Roman architecture and tradition that once made an impact on this city. One of the more important customs was that of public bathing.

In the city of Miletus there were three bathing areas: the Capito Thermae, Humei Tope Thermae (in the north) and the Faustina Thermae operating in the south. During the First Century BC, Cnaeus Vergilius Capito donated the resources for a large building complex which would contain an exercise area and baths. An inscription located on the northern section of the Ionic Stoa, confirms his donation. Because baths were more of a social activity among the Romans, this compound was perfectly situated between the Delphinion and the Hellenistic Gymnasium. In the Palaestra, the exercise area, was a swimming pool. There were three sections to the baths (Thermae) which were the dressing rooms, the warm bath and the hot bath.

The Delphinion was built near the Harbour of Lions as a sanctuary of Apollo Delphinios who was the patron saint of sailors and ships. It was first constructed in the 6^th century BC, and went through several updates before it was destroyed in the 5^th century AD. The ruins clearly show the remains of a circular temple which was once protected by a roof and sheltered the altar where the residents brought their offerings. There were inscriptions found on the inner walls of the stoa and on the stelae indicating that this location was also once the city’s archive.

Many of the ancient ruins were not without a Nymphaem, which was one of the most important features of the city. This fountain was considered to be one of the most impressive of all of the Ionian cities. A three story structure with a façade that displayed Corinthian columns, it is said to have looked much like the façade of the Library of Celsius in Ephesus. You can find the Nymphaem on the western part of the city between the northern Capito Thermae and the southern North Agora and the Gymnasium of Eudemus. The structure also contained niches and pedestals on which statues would be displayed. The statues represented gods and demi-gods and it was estimated that there was a total of 27 throughout the building.

The South Gymnasium also known as the Gymnasium of Eudemis, was built on a north to south axis on the southern part of the city. On the esatern side of the Sacred way leading to the sanctuary of Didymia is an Ionic Stoa. It was quite long with seven steps leading up to the 36 columns supporting a beautifully decorated frieze. The original structure was built during the Flavian dynasty and further alterations were completed during the time of the Emperor Trajan.

Within close proximity to the theater were the Faustina Baths, which were built in the second century AD under the direction of Marcus Aurelius’ wife. These were the dressing rooms for the baths. At its height, the baths were an extensive complex with large fountains in various shapes such as the river god Meander, a small lion and other statues of the gods.

The building was a single story structure which included hot and cold baths, an area for physical exercizes and exquisite sculpture decoration. There were 13 rooms on each side which acted as changing rooms for the visitors. There were also beds provided in these rooms for the visitors in the event that they would want to rest.

While visiting Miletus, it is a bit difficult to imagine that this city was once a port town, situated on a peninsula, with three harbors on the west and one on the east. The harbors have since silted up to the point that the site now sits 5 miles inland. Today it is a popular shore excursion from the cruise lines that port in Kusadasi and is well worth the visit if you have an interest in ancient ruins, history and religion.

Have you had the pleasure of visiting Miletus? What aspects of the ancient city did you find fascinating? I would love to hear about your travel experience if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for escaping away with me to Miletus and I hope you have many Happy Travels in your near future!

For more information about the beautiful, exotic country of Turkey, check out the following links!

Topkapki Palace
The Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
Spice Bazaar and Hippodrome
Ephesus, Turkey: A Journey Back in Time
A Turkish Carpet Demonstration
Kusadasi and its Symbol of Peace
The Theater of Miletus

Kuta Puri Bungalows, Bali

11 March 202222 September 2024

The Kuta Puri Bungalows is a jewel of a resort in Kuta, Bali that is quietly tucked away in the fast-paced streets of the city. I had been booked in the nearby Hard Rock Hotel, but they had overbooked and my friend, Wayan found this amazing place.

The front desk is an open air structure where the attendants are super friendly and helpful in arranging tours and drivers for the day.

The paved pathways are perfect for exploring the grounds and taking a leisurely stroll.

Towards the front of the resort are the smaller rooms that are perfect for an economical stay.

I opted for the bungalow which included a sunken in living room, raised bedroom and an upscale outdoor bathroom set up in a garden style environment.

The outdoor bench was the perfect location for watching the thunderstorms. The bungalow was set towards the back of the resort where it was very private and quiet.

A small back porch of flowers and fauna was located off of the living quarters of the bungalow.

Two swimming pools are one of the few wonderful amenities provided by the hotel.

An attendant provides guests with pool towels each day.

Kuta Puri offers daily massages in a simple secluded area of the hotel’s property.

A Hindu temple is located towards the back of the hotel.

The resident cat stands guard at the Hindu temple.

A complimentary breakfast is served each morning at the resort’s restaurant. Lunch and dinner can be purchased here throughout the day.

The grounds are impeccable which makes for a nice morning, afternoon or evening walk.

Thank you for exploring the grounds of the Kuta Puri Bungalows with me. It is a resort that I highly recommend during your stay in the Kuta area of Bali. The hotel is reasonably priced with great accommodations and is close to the beach.

Have you been pleasantly surprised by a hotel or accommodation that you booked? I would love to hear about your experience in the comments below! Happy Travels!

Where to Stay:

Kuta Puri Bungalows
Jalan Pantai Kuta
Poppies Lane 1
Kuta, Bali 80361 Indonesia
Telephone: +62 361 751903

Temples, Monkeys and Seafood in South Bali

11 February 202222 September 2024

As we left Ubud and traveled towards Kuta, it was quite clear that we were headed back to city life. With a short drive through rush hour, we saw several buses, cars, dump trucks and a large number of motorbikes. Soon we arrived in the city of Kuta with its beachfront hotels and upscale restaurants.

Since I wasn’t sure how long I would be staying in northern Bali, I did not make hotel reservations for the latter part of my vacation. Arriving in Kuta, I stopped by the Hard Rock Hotel where I stayed the first night, but unfortunately, there were no rooms available for a short term stay. Hotels in Kuta book up fast, even in the off-season.

I was hoping to find a place where I could relax and hang out by a pool, so my friend Wayan suggested we try the bungalows located around the corner. With a setting of solace and quiet, I was happy that the Kuta Puri Bungalows had space available. The property and location was perfect and happened to be one of the best accommodations I had ever experienced, staying a few nights in the Luxury Bungalow.

Waking early, I enjoyed the hotel’s complimentary breakfast and decided to make plans for seeing more of South Bali. I wanted to visit the Uluwatu Temple, known for its spectacular ocean views and resident monkeys but my friends had already left to go back to Lovina Beach. With the help of the hotel, I was able to find a local driver who would take me to the temple, wait with me until I had completed my tour and could recommend a seafood lunch on Jimbaran Beach.

As my driver dropped me off at the temple, I was welcomed by a troop of monkeys. I watched them as they eagerly taunted a group of visitors, stealing their belongings in the parking lot.

Before entering the temple, I wrapped the sarong around my waste to cover my knees. Many of the Hindu temples are strict about the dress of visitors and require that the shoulders and knees are covered prior to entering. Several of them loan out sarongs as a cover-up which can be returned at the end of their visit.

It was windy outside with overcast skies, and I was excited to visit one of the most dramatic temples of Bali, perched on a cliff high above the sea.

A pathway following along the coast led me past a steep cliff before arriving at the temple. I could hear the faint sound of waves crashing against the rocky bluff. The crystal blue waters with their white foam disappeared into the cave-like tunnels beneath the craggy rocks.

The temple was closing in and I could hardly see the tourists in the distance. I was nervous in anticipation as I thought about standing along the edge of the cliff. Climbing higher, the wind began to pick up so I started to hang on tightly to the railing until I reached the top. The view of the ocean extended for miles and looking down made me weak in the knees. What an exhilarating experience!

I slowly wandered to an adjacent open-air building where monkeys were playing, begging from visitors and sharing their food with their friends. Tourists were tossing fruit and coconuts towards them and those that had their fill went back to playing around and grooming each other affectionately.

While the adult monkeys were eating, it was the baby monkeys that stole the show. Tumbling over each other and playing a lively game of tag, their energy was adorable. Their big brown eyes and tiny features made them all the more lovable. I could have stayed here for hours but it was time for lunch along the beach and I was looking forward to sampling some of the Iocal seafood.

Jimbaran Beach was not far from the temple and the wind was beginning to die down. I was looking forward to having lunch outside along the beach, enjoying the scenic view of the coast. A large selection of restaurants lined the shore so I trusted my driver to provide a recommendation. He suggested the Bawang Merah Beachfront Restaurant where I ordered the red snapper with rice.

Blackened and grilled, my red snapper arrived and I could smell the heat from the spices. The fish was tender and the rice prepared perfectly. Enjoying my meal, I reflected on my Balinese vacation over the past two weeks and the amazing memories I had made in such a short period of time. Sitting along the beach, I thought about how much this opportunity taught me culturally, physically and spiritually. I made a mental note to take in the scenery at this very moment and promised myself never to take for granted this spectacular journey of a lifetime and promised myself that one day I would return.

What was your most recent journey that made a huge impact on you where you wanted to return again soon? I would love to hear your experience, so kindly leave a summary in the comments section below! Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Uluwatu Temple
Pecatu, South Kuta
Badung Regency, Bali, Indonesia

Admission Fee: 35,000 Rupiah (IDR) to enter the temple and 50,000 Rupiah (IDR) for the kecak performance; $5 per car or $1 per person for pedestrians, cash only
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 6PM.
Amenities: Sarong rental to ensure appropriate dress, kecak fire dancing performances in the evening,
Scenic View: Spectacular views of the temple on the cliffside and of the ocean below
Length of the Hike: 1 to 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Please be aware of the monkeys at the temple. They may try to steal your belongings, so ensure that your sunglasses, hats, water bottles, etc. are secure in your possession. Hiking up to the temple, stay on the pathway as there are dangerous cliffs around. This is an amazing location to watch the sun set.

Where to Stay:

Kuta Puri Bungalows
Jalan Pantai Kuta
Poppies Lane 1
Kuta, Kubupaten, Badung, Bali, 80361, Indonesia
Telephone: +62 361 751903

Where to Eat:

Bawang Merah Beachfront Restaurant
Kelan, Jimbaran Bay, Bali, 80361, Indonesia
Telephone: +62 361 770210

I ordered the grilled, blackened red snapper which was incredibly fresh and absolutely delicious!

What to Eat:

Babi Guling: Suckling pig, which is similar to BBQ pork in the US.
Bakso Soup: Indonesian soup made with meatballs, noodles, spices, vegetables and broth
Gado-Gado: A cold salad of vegetables served with a peanut sauce
Nasi Goreng: Fried noodles with lots of vegetables and a choice of meat, topped with peanuts and an egg.
Pisang Goreng: Fried Bananas, served with palm sugar, honey, flaked coconut or ice cream
Sate Ayam: Chicken on a stick usually served with a peanut sauce
Spring Rolls: Crispy pastry filled with minced meat and mixed vegetables and then fried, usually served with a chili sauce

What to Read:

Balilicious, by Becky Wicks
Eat, Pray, Love, by Elizabeth Gilbert
A House in Bali, by Colin McPhee
Love and Death in Bali, by Vicky Baum
Snowing in Bali, by Kathryn Bonella
Under the Volcano: A story of Bali, by Cameron Forbes

Photo Guide for South Bali:

The Edge Hotel in Uluwatu, Bali is amazing for spectacular cliff views.
Rock Bar Bali is the perfect location to watch the sunset over Uluwatu
Ulu Cliff House is a beach club located in Uluwatu that provides incredible views of the coastline
OMNIA Bali’s infinity pool
Gili Trawangan Swings at Ombak Sunset
The Ayana Pool at Ayana Resort
Sea Circus in Seminyak for breakfast
La Brisa Bali located in Canggu is the popular location to watch the sunset
Tegenungan Waterfall in Ubud
Tegalalang Rice Fields for the gorgeous scenery and the Love Bali sign
Thomas Beach Uluwatu
Bingin Beach Uluwatu
Motel Mexicola for its colorful exterior
Bambu Indah Hotel in gorgeous Ubud
The Monkey Forest in Ubud
Hidden Hills Villas
Nusa Penida for the cliffside views
La Laguna Bali in Canggu
Mt. Batur for its sunrise (north Bali)
Crate Cafe at Canggu

Hartman Rock Garden, A Fine Example of Folk Art Restoration

20 October 201616 September 2024

Approaching the residential house on the corner of Russell and McCain, Hartman Rock Garden could easily be missed if it wasn’t for the welcome signs. I found a parking spot nearby and began to walk towards the left side of the house. I entered towards the back through a white picket fence where I found a guide book and a map.

Ben Hartman began his work on the Hartman Rock Garden during the Great Depression when he was laid off from his job at the age of forty-eight. Over the next twelve years, he continued to add on to his garden by constructing over fifty projects including famous monuments and figurines.

I skimmed through the booklet to learn more about about Harry George “Ben” Hartman, the man behind the artwork and noticed the self-guided walking tour. I was so excited to start my visit to this unique little garden and to learn about each of the lovely structures Ben had created.

I left a donation, reviewed the guide and began the walking tour at The Fishing Pond towards the center of the yard. This was the first project of Hartman’s that started this “garden of love” known today as the Hartman Rock Garden.

Ben loved nursery rhymes, so the Rose Basket was filled with figurines recreating some of the most well-known nursery rhymes: Jack & Jill, The Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe and Peter, Peter Pumpkin Eater. These small delicate figures made of stone are available for viewing only during special events and behind the scenes tours.

In addition to fairy-tale figurines, Mr. Hartman reproduced some of the local landmarks of his hometown of Springfield, Ohio. Fascinated by historical structures from all over the world, he re-created several of these as well. The Cathedral is the largest project completed by Hartman, standing 14 feet tall. Replicating the spectacular cathedrals of Italy, inside are niches showcasing several Madonna figurines.

Because Mr. Hartman also took an interest in American History, there were a few designs based on several historic buildings and events that took place throughout the United States. Mount Vernon, the childhood home of the country’s first president, George Washington was beautifully created with stately columns and multiple windows. Peeking through the windows, I could see small, period figurines that would have coincided with this historical period.

Hartman gathered small stones on his property to create the structures of George Washington’s Valley Forge. The delicate stonework and the dormers shaped into the concrete roof showed Hartman’s attention to detail as well as his love for creating these amazing pieces of art.

A continuation of the Valley Forge display showcases the smaller lodging areas for sleeping. One of the details that Mr. Hartman included were the icicles that clung to the rooftops of the miniature buildings. I also noticed the small, weathered handwritten cards identifying some of the structures. Unfortunately they were difficult to read, so I made my next stop at Custer’s Last Stand.

I was soon approaching my favorite part of the garden known as The Castle. Rising twelve feet high, this masterpiece is surrounded by a moat and equipped with a working drawbridge. This medieval fortress was created by Hartman out of mixed stone, concrete and grey dolostone. With 107 windows and 100,000 stones, it took him only fourteen days to build.

With a pathway of animal pairs making their way to the entrance of this large boat, there was no mistaking this was Noah’s Ark. The recreation was perfect to the last detail with a pair of doves on the top of its roof and fourteen pairs of metallic animals making their way to the ark’s entrance. I absolutely adored this rendition of one of my favorite Bible stories.

From Death Valley to the Oregon Trail, even Hoover Dam was unmistakable.

The White House, made from concrete and granite, was another lovely tribute to American History.

Adding a little color to the collection is Philadelphia’s Independence Hall. Also known as Freedom Hall, this meticulous miniature was built from red brick.

It is said that the Tree of Life was one of Ben Hartman’s favorite works and is considered one of his most impressive. The tree symbolizes country, school and church, which Hartman felt were the most important things in a man’s life. There are close to 20,000 stones used to create this sacred tree.

Created around 1932, a colorful planter depicts two Bible stories. With flowers to the left, the figurines to the right represent both Daniel in the Lion’s Den atop the structure and the Hebrew Children in the Fiery Furnace below.

Based on his Christian faith, Hartman designed a beautiful nativity, the place where Jesus was born, Calvary Hill where Jesus was crucified and the empty tomb where Jesus would rise from the dead.

My last stop was to the Wishing Well made of concrete, dolostone, granite and a mix of stones. Beneath the cover was an old wooden bucket, so I made a wish and placed a few coins inside.

There are close to fifty structures on display at Hartman Rock Garden. Each unique, they held a special place in Ben’s heart. Today the garden is considered a work of “in situ folk art” and thousands of visitors come from all over the world to admire the unique works of Harry George “Ben” Hartman. You may be so inspired to create a beautiful garden for yourself.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Hartman Rock Garden in Springfield, Ohio? I would love to hear about your time spent here if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below! Many thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Hartman Rock Garden
1905 Russell Avenue
Springfield, Ohio 45506
Email: info@hartmanrockgarden.org

Admission Fee: Free but a $2 per person donation is appreciated.
Hours: Open daily, 364 days, from dusk until dawn
Amenities: Self-guided tours
Length of Visit: 1 hour
Tips for Your Visit: Pick up a flyer on the property for the self-guided tour. Directions: Traveling south down South Yellow Springs Street leaving downtown Springfield, you will pass John Street and will see McCain Avenue to your right. Turn onto McCain and within a couple of blocks there is a white picket fence which was the home of the Hartmans.

Where to Stay:

Courtyard by Marriott Downtown
100 South Fountain Avenue
Springfield, OH 45502
Telephone; 937 322 3600

Where to Eat:

Seasons Bistro and Grille
28 South Limestone Street
Springfield, Ohio 45502
Telephone: 937 521 1200

My favorite item on the menu is the Bibimbap, a Korean rice bowl with marinated beef strips and seasonal vegetables served over white rice. Topped with a fried egg and Korean chili paste.

Another seasonal favorite that is offered on a limited basis is their grilled Chilean sea bass!