Pacific Coast Highway Roadtrip

8 July 202319 April 2025

Having just returned from New Year’s in Las Vegas, Peter and I spent a relaxing week in San Francisco and made time to celebrate a friend’s birthday with a day of hiking and dinner in La Jolla. I was scheduled to go back to Ohio, but Peter suggested I extend my stay to include the weekend so that we could plan a road trip along the Pacific Coast Highway. We would start with a drive through the scenic towns of Santa Cruz, pass the scenic sanctuary of Big Sur and relax on our final night in Morro Bay before driving back up to San Francisco.

The charming town of Santa Cruz, translated as Holy Cross, is only 75 miles south of San Francisco and was the first stop on our PCH tour. Attracting surfers and artists, this laid-back beach community is known for its liberal activism and is home to the Resource Center for Nonviolence. We strolled along the boardwalk taking in the picturesque lagoon with its small sailboats stopping by for an afternoon lunch. Nearby attractions include the redwood forests and Monterey Bay, which is a protected marine sanctuary.

Visiting the casual coastal town of Monterey, we parked close to the pier where we enjoyed exploring the harbor, Cannery Row, San Carlos Beach Park and the world renowned aquarium. This seaside community has hosted a notable list of artists and writers who have made Monterey their muse. One of the most famous of these writers was John Steinbeck who celebrated the area of Monterey with his novels Cannery Row, East of Eden and Tortilla Flat.

Deciding at the last minute, we booked a room at the Monterey Bay Lodge realizing we needed more time to take in the fascinating attractions of this seaside village. Cannery Row is full of shops and restaurants and of course, I can’t miss a stop at Carmel Ridge Winery. The world renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium, was also a must see on our list before traveling south.

Awaking early, we found the entrance to Monterey’s 17-mile drive on this overcast day. We paid the $10 entrance fee to enter the gated community of Pebble Beach with its glorious mansions and well-manicured golf courses. Driving through the scenic loop that passes through some of the most beautiful vistas, we made a few stops to photograph the gorgeous seascapes along the California coast. Originally known as the 18-mile drive, this section of roadway was opened in 1892 to horse and carriage traffic for scenic tours and remains a major attraction for visitors to Monterey.

The relaxing trek winds through rocky outcrops with a list of interesting sites that were identified on our map. Among the several notable overlooks are the Inn at Spanish Bay, Point Joe, Bird Rock, Seal Rock and Fanshell Beach, the Lone Cypress and Pescadaro Point. We traveled the full loop route which brought us back to the Pacific Grove Gate at Sunset Drive. From there we caught the PCH, passing through Carmel-by-the-Sea.

About twenty minutes outside of Carmel, we arrived at the Bixby Bridge, a familiar landmark along the scenic highway providing entrance into Big Sur. The steel structure seemed to sprout out from the craggy rocks overlooking the Pacific Ocean standing 280 feet high. Recognized as one of the tallest single-span bridges in the world, we carefully crossed the impending concrete structure continuing south on State Route 1.

Stepping out of the car at one of the many overlooks along the route, we took a moment to enjoy the silence of our surroundings. I felt a sense of solace watching the waves crest over the scattered boulders along the coast. The air had a smell of salt and earth.

Before us was a stretch of protected seashore boasting some of the most scenic landscapes of the western coast, making it one of the most popular vacation destinations in California.

Big Sur is credited for the emergence of the “New Age” era and is the location of the first Zen monastery built outside of Asia, the Tassajara. The inspirational scenery of this location was so beautiful that it attracted movie stars and millionaires. John Kerouac immortalized Big Sur in his writings and a variety of movies were filmed here to include the 1965 film “The Sandpiper” starring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, “Zandy’s Bride” and “The Stranger in Big Sur”.

In 1944, Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth purchased a cabin here, which is now the Nepenthe, a popular restaurant clinging to the coast about 800 feet above the coastline.

I was pleasantly surprised to learn that within Big Sur are nine state parks. Detouring off of the main byway, we entered Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. We noticed a short hike that led to a secluded waterfall that claimed to offer another unforgettable scenic overlook. The well-marked waterfall trail wove back under the roadway and opened up to an endless view of the Pacific. Soon thereafter, the waterfall eked out between two monoliths resulting in a steady stream deposited onto the light sandy beach below.

The sun was beginning to set as we passed Hearst Castle. We agreed that we would continue our drive to Morro Bay where we would be staying the last night of our weekend and would come back to the castle the next day. This would allow us a full day to explore the residence instead of a couple of hours.

Upon arriving in the immaculate seaside location of Cambria, I felt as though we were entering a quaint little town in Germany. A charming stop along the Pacific coast, we took the opportunity to walk along Moonstone Beach were we spent about an hour before departing for our final stop of the evening.

We watched the sun as it sank beneath the western sky, leaving its beautiful trademark of kaleidoscope color behind. By the time we had reached Morro, it was nightfall, so we found our hotel and turned in for the night.

Looking over the map, I noticed a couple of places we could fit in before visiting Hearst Castle and making our final departure back to San Francisco. We packed up the SUV and soon learned it was not difficult to find Morro Bay with its large rock-like formation dominating the harbor.

A sandy roadway reached the base of the monolith so we decided to check it out. Morro is the Spanish word for rock, so the naming of this “rock” would seem appropriate until we learned that this megalith is actually a volcanic plug and is one of a series known as the Nine Sisters.

One of my work colleagues overheard that I would be exploring the Pacific Coast Highway and suggested that I book a night at The Madonna Inn in the college town of San Luis Obispo. He had attended Cal Poly College of Engineering and fell in love with the town. So when we read the description of rooms at the Madonna Inn, we were intimidated by the customized themes of Love Nest, Caveman Room, Safari Room and Jungle Rock and decided that if we had time to visit, we would at least stop for a look.

Pismo Beach’s uncanny quietness seemed more like a ghost town than a vibrant beachside tourist attraction, but it may have been because we had arrived so early in the morning. Known as one of the Five Cities it had once laid claim as the “Clam Capitol of the World” because the clams were so abundant it drew thousands of clammers to the area. To commemorate this designation, Pismo hosts their yearly Clam Festival in October.

It would have been a couple of hours until the shops opened, so we agreed to make our way towards San Simeon, with our last stop at Hearst Castle. Experiencing the Pacific Coast Highway removed us from the hustle and bustle of our city lives and brought us to a place where we could once again enjoy the pure nature of coastal crags and prickly pines. I can’t wait to do it all over again.

Do you have any comments or suggestions regarding the Pacific Coast Highway and the small towns mentioned here? What was your experience taking this amazing scenic drive? I would love to hear about your favorite stops, restaurants, hotels, etc. if you would kindly leave your message in the comments section! Many Thanks and Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Pacific Coast Highway

Cannery Row
Monterey, CA

Carmel Ridge Winery Tasting Room
700 Cannery Row
Monterey, CA 93940
Telephone 831 324 0035

Monterey Bay Aquarium
886 Cannery Row
Monterey, CA 93940
Telephone: 831 648 4800

Admission Fee: Tickets for Adults are $49.95, Children (3 – 12, under the age of three are free): $29.95; Student (ages 13 – 17 or college ID): $39.95, and Seniors (ages 65+): $39.95
Hours: Open daily from 10AM to 5PM
Amenities: Animals & exhibits; café & restaurant, gift shops; interactive programs, daily shows and feedings, live cams and animal guides.
Scenic View: The large glass tanks provide amazing views of the fish and additional sea life.
Length of Visit: More than three hours
Tips for Your Visit: Allow yourself plenty of time to visit the aquarium. During the first month of December, the facility provides a reduced admission rate for locals, so the aquarium can be crowded at this time. Should you decide to go outside of the aquarium to explore Monterey, they will stamp your hand for re-entry. Knowledgeable docents provide additional information about the aquarium. You may want to check with AAA if you have a membership for discounted tickets.

17-Mile Drive
Pebble Beach, CA 93953

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
47555 Highway 1
Big Sur, CA 93920
Telephone: 831 667 0148

Admission Fee: $10 per day per car; camping fee is $30 per night
Hours: Open ½ hour before sunrise and ½ hour after sunset.
Amenities: Hiking trails, picnic areas, exhibits and programs, interpretive exhibits, nature & wildlife viewing.
Scenic View: An 80-foot waterfall that drops from granite cliffs into the ocean from the Overlook Trail. A panoramic view of the ocean and miles of rugged coastline is available from the higher elevations along the trails east of Highway 1.
Length of Visit: 1 – 2 hours
Tips for Your Visit: Contact the park ahead of time to see which trails are open as recently there have been several closings. Cell phone service is extremely limited in the park. Motorized aircraft are prohibited from flying below 1000 feet on the coast of Big Sur. Campfires are only permitted in the provided metal fire rings within the State Parks’ campgrounds. Firewood is available for purchase at the Pfeiffer Big Sur entrance kiosk and camp host sites for $12 per bundle and includes a firestarter.

Hearst Castle
750 Hearst Castle Road
San Simeon, CA 83452
Telephone: 800 444 4445

Admission Fee: $25 per adult and $12 per child ages 5 – 12; children under 5 are free
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 4PM
Amenities: Several tour options available, movie theater, gardens and restaurant
Scenic View: Spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean from Hearst Castle.
Length of Visit: 2 – 3 hours or more if you have booked multiple tours.
Tips for Your Visit: Booking a tour is one of the best ways to explore Hearst Castle. The location is magical during the Christmas season as the castle is decorated for the holidays.

Where to Stay:

The Madonna Inn
100 Madonna Road
San Luis Obispo, CA 93405
Telephone: 805 543 3000

Where to Eat:

Nepenthe Restaurant
48510 Highway One
Big Sur, CA
Telephone: 831 667 2345

I ordered the Rueben sandwich with thin-sliced pastrami, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on marbled rye.

What to Eat:

Calamari
Ceviche
Fish and Chips
Local Oysters
Oyster Shooters
Steamed Clams and Mussels

What to Read:

Big Sur, by Jack Kerouac
South on Pacific Coast Highway, by Gary Paul Corcoran
California, by Kevin Starr
L.A. Noir, by John Buntin

Photo Guide to the Pacific Coast Highway in California

Bixby Bridge
Carmel-by-the-Sea beach
Garrapata State Beach for its wild calla lily valley
Hearst Castle
McWay Falls at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
Pfeiffer Beach shoreline
Point Sur Lighthouse

Entering the tunnel towards the overlook

More PCH scenery

Big Sur at Sunset

The Timeless Beauty of the Amalfi Coast

4 August 201918 September 2024

Arriving into the port of Naples, I quickly noticed a clear distinction between the ancient city and its modern metropolis. Commercial vessels, cruise ships and fishing boats lined up along the pier as passengers and merchandise came ashore. Several ships transported tourists to the local islands while buses waited at the entrance of the port for day trippers to explore the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii.

The cruise ship, Pullmantur Sovereign, offered several interesting excursions for the day and it was difficult to decide between the Amalfi Coast drive or a day in Capri. I was also interested in Pompeii but in the end, I chose the coastal drive to explore Amalfi, Sorrento and a drive through Positano.

The Amalfi Coast was once a luxury getaway for the Caesars of Rome with its aquamarine seas and picturesque cliffs. The dramatic coastline extends about 67 miles with hairpin turns and dangerous switchbacks while precipitous cliffs vertically plunge into the sea. Charming hillside towns miraculously appear along the route with their colorful, picturesque exteriors.

We were about 45 minutes from our first stop and in the distance I could see the islands of Procida, Capri and Ischia. The morning haze had lifted and glimpses of the spectacular vistas began to appear.

Looking out the window of the bus, I found myself lost in the stunning villages with their picturesque harbors, high cliffs and coves. I imagined renting a sailboat and leisurely coasting along the shoreline in pursuit of an outdoor restaurant or a private beach for an afternoon of rest and relaxation.

I could hardly contain my excitement as the bus passed road signs directing us towards the charming town of Sorrento, known for its production of limoncello.

Once we arrived, we began our walk towards the center of town. Narrow alleyways branched off from the plaza filled with outdoor restaurants and souvenir shops. Fruit stands overflowing with colorful produce and limoncello were popular stops along the thoroughfare. Limoncello, a lemon liquor made from local Femminello St. Teresa lemons, was handed out in plastic cups for tourists to sample before buying.

Overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento’s warm, year-around climate and dramatic views make it a popular vacation spot. Piazza Tasso (Tasso Square) is surrounded by bright pastel buildings and ceramic displays hanging from its exterior walls. A statue of St. Anthony, the patron saint of the town, stands guard within the square. Buses make a quick stop to pick up passengers visiting Marina Piccola or Via Capo. The plaza, vibrant with tourists and locals, is the heart of this coastal town.

I bought a few bottles of limoncello to take back home as gifts and browsed the ceramic pieces which were absolutely stunning. Our next stop brought us to the town of Amalfi, once an important trading port along the Mediterranean.

The winding road of Strada Statale 163 (SS 163) is the connection between Amalfi and Sorrento. Built during the Roman Empire, the roadway is exceptionally narrow with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The passage is carved among the cliffs with tunnels that frame the breathtaking views. Before reaching Amalfi, the road passes through Positano, a picturesque village on a hill, which is the coast’s most photogenic town.

Before we entered the tunnel that led to Amalfi, a traffic jam brought our bus to a complete stop. Our tour guide offered us the chance to take the walkway down to the harbor or we could stay on the bus until the traffic subsided. Unanimously, our group was happy to exit the bus to stretch our legs and start the hike towards the shore.

Amalfi was once a maritime superpower in the 10^th and 11^th centuries with its multiple trade routes rivaling those of Genoa, Pisa and Venice. Once a population of more than 70,000, the laid-back, humble Amalfi of today is home to about 5,000 residents who depend on tourism to survive. With one main street connecting the waterfront to the valley, visitors can easily walk from one end to the other in about 20 minutes.

We reached the tranquil cove where sailboats were anchored and motorboats docked. I was mesmerized by the sun’s rays and the images reflecting off of the sea. Peaceful and calm, I could have stood in this spot for the remainder of the day.

From the harbor, we crossed the street entering the Piazza del Duomo. My eyes were immediately drawn to the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea (Duomodi Amalfi). The basilica, built between 1000 to 1300 AD, is dedicated to the apostle Andrew, the brother of St. Peter. It is believed that the remains of St. Andrew were brought to Amalfi during the Crusades and is buried in the Crypt within the cathedral.

The Boutique Coralli e Cammei is known for its ceramic merchandise and dates back to 1885. On my way out, I enjoyed shopping among the tiles, dishes, flower pots and artwork.

It was time for us to meet at the mossy fountain before boarding the bus. Across the street I caught one last glimpse of the harbor and looked forward to the scenic ride back to the ship.

I imagine Capri is absolutely fabulous and that the Pompeii ruins are incredible, but I could not have picked a better day to have explored the Amalfi Coast.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the Amalfi Coast? Which towns were your favorite? I would love to hear about your visit to southern Italy if you will kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my day exploring the Amalfi Coast and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Limonoro
Via San Cesareo 49/53
80067 Sorrento Italy
Telephone: +39 081 878 5348

The go-to shop for purchasing limoncello! Yum!

Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Sant’Andrea)
Via Duca Mansone I
84011 Amalfi, SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 873558

Admission Fee: 3 Euros to visit the church and the museum
Hours: 10AM to 5PM
Scenic View: A lovely view of the piazza from the stairs leading into the basilica.
Amount of Time to Visit: 30 minutes to an hour
Tips for Your Visit: The Cloister of Paradise leads into the museum of the Basilica of the Crucifix and the relics of St. Andrew, the Apostle of Christ.

Where to Stay:

Plaza Sorrento – in Sorrento
Via Fuorimura, 3
80067 Sorrento (Napoli) Italy
Telephone: +39 081 8073942

Hotel Aurora – in Amalfi
Piazzale dei Protontini, 7
84011, Amalfi, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871209

Il San Pietro di Positano – in Positano
Via Laurito, 2
84017 Positano, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 812 080

Where to Eat:

Terrazza Bosquet at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria – in Sorrento
Piazza Tasso, 34
80067, Sorrento, Italy
Telephone: +39 081 877 71 11

It became a joke between my boyfriend, David and I that I had never visited a Michelin star restaurant for dinner, so for a lovely surprise during our stay in Sorrento, David took me to Terrazza Bosquet.

For a starter, we ordered the Saffron Marinated Sea Bass with Smoked Provolone cheese and black truffle and for dinner I ordered the Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Basil, while I encouraged David to order the Tasting Menu (105 Euros) for various options to sample. For wine, we ordered the Malbec Riserva, 2012 Domaine Bousquet. What an incredible experience!

Ristorante Eolo – in Amalfi
Via Pantaleone Comite, 3
84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Telephone: +39 089 871241

We had eaten a late lunch, so we decided to enjoy one of the restaurant’s sumptuous desserts and a bottle of wine! We each ordered the chocolate bombe with raspberry sauce with gold shavings. Perfect with our wine, Passopisciaro Passorosso 2015 from Mt. Etna in Sicily.

Da Adolfo – in Positano
Via Laurito 40,
Positano, italy
Telephone: +39 089 875 022

To reach this amazing, historical restaurant, you have to take a five minute boat ride from the port of Positano. The menu is limited, but we LOVED the mussels and Adolfo’s chicken….and of course, the local wine!

What to Eat:

Delizia al limone: A signature dish of the Amalfi Coast, this decadent dessert is made from lemons, limoncello, eggs, sugar and flour.
Goat cheese from Monti Lattari: One of the most exclusive cheeses from this area and is found in most local restaurants.
Limoncello: This after dinner drink is prepared using local lemons.
Mozzarella cheese: Produced from both cow milk and buffalo milk, this mild cheese is best eaten plain at room temperature.
Pasta: The region of Campania is known for making its own extraordinary pasta.
Provolone del Monaco: Another cheese from this region, this semi-hard cheese can be eaten raw
Scialatielli ai frutti de mare: Translated as traditional pasta with seafood, this dish was made famous by local chef Enrico Cosentino in the 1960s.
Spaghetti alla Nerano: Spaghetti noodles cooked with zucchini, provolone and topped with basil. Nerano is the name of the city where this dish was created.
Wines from Tramonti, Ravello and Furore

What to Read:

My Amalfi Coast: Travel Edition by Amanda Tabberer
Gelato Sisterhood on the Amalfi Shore by Chantal Kelly
The House in Amalfi by Elizabeth Adler
Amalfi Blue: Lost & Found in the South of Italy by Lisa Fantino

Photo Guide for the Amalfi Coast:

Spaggia Grande in Positano: Classic photo against the backdrop of colorful cliffside houses…stunning photography.
The Staircase at the Duomo in Amalfi: Pose on the steps for an iconic photo.
Villa Cimbrone in Ravello: The Terrace of Infinity provides views of endless blue with Roman statue in the background.
The Streets of Vietri sul Mare: Capture the charm of this colorful waterfront village.
The Fjords in Furore: Pose against the beautiful scenery of the cove and the amazing bridge in the background.
The Beach in Atrani: Pink buildings provide the perfect contrast with the blue umbrellas on the beach.
Colorful Coastal Fruit: Stop along the charming seaside towns and their fruit stands for colorful photos.

A Fountain in Amalfi

Road Trip on the Bighorn Scenic Byway

1 September 201816 September 2024

Are you a fan of road trips? I absolutely love the energy that comes from driving the open road. I’m also guilty of stopping by every Welcome Center for a few brochures and pulling over to check out the “Scenic View” for a few photos.

I was ready to tackle the 58 mile drive known as the Bighorn Scenic Byway. Met with waterfalls, canyons, forests and open fields, my heart began to race as I traveled west into unexplored territory. There is a freedom of taking to the highway and exploring the pure beauty of the Western United States.

The weather was perfect for taking the route along US 14, flanked by Powder River and Big Horn basins. I was heading towards Greybull and had mapped out a few stops along the way checking out some recommended points of interest.

Without any stops, my drive time would have taken about an hour, but the scenery was so spectacular, I couldn’t resist frequent stops to take photos. While the detours added an hour to my trip, I was certain I would reach my hotel before nightfall. Shortly into my drive I approached the Bighorn Basin looking west where I could see the Yellowstone Plateau in the distance. If I had more time, I would have loved to have spent more time to camp, fish or even pick up a hike or two.

The highway passed a wide range of geological formations and landscapes. As I drove through a small section of the scenic byway, I could see there had been a recent fire. From mountain tops to meadows, there were craggy rock outcroppings that added to the fascinating roadside scenery.

The red rocks seemed to increase the further I drove. Roadside signs along the way documented the elevation as I began to reach the crest of the Bighorn Mountains. Posted signs warned me of falling rocks and wildlife crossing the road.

The mountains in the distance took on a shade of royal blue against the subtle earth tones of the rocks. The drive brought me through a thick forest. Random openings through the trees allowed me a short glimpse of the afternoon landscape. The branches and leaves were a great protection from the sun, casting shadows on the road ahead of me.

The valleys began to open up ahead so I stopped at a scenic overpass to stretch out my legs. As soon as I exited the car, I quickly noticed a doe in the tall grass. She ignored me as she went about eating the grass at the edge of the roadway. Not at all aware that I was there, with her white tail flitting about to swat flies, she headed down the steep slope gently with each step. I slowly followed her for a few feet and in the short distance from where she was standing, there was a buck and a smaller deer at his side. I smiled to myself and was incredibly thankful for another unexpected surprise along my journey.

The road continued to climb and in the distance was a large rock-like structure known as Copman’s Tomb. Copman was an explorer who loved spending time in Shell Canyon and had wished for his ashes to be scattered over the mountain when he died. Having reached an elevation of 8,875 feet, I finally approached Shell Canyon Falls. Here I had planned to visit the interpretive trail and hike the falls.

I parked the car and left a small donation at the trailhead. It was a welcome sight to stretch my legs and enjoy a quiet hike. Shell Falls was a short walk from the parking lot and I could hear the sound of the water crashing against the rocks long before reaching the viewing platform. As I approached the 120-foot plunge, the mist refreshed my skin from the heat of the sun.

Although the Bighorn Scenic Byway had come to an end, there was an endless number of spectacular sights from this point until I reached my final destination. So as the day drew to a close, the sun’s reflection made the reds a bit redder and the oranges a radiant glow. It was a wonderful end to a perfect day of travel and I would be ready to start tomorrow morning, once again hitting the open road.

Were you ever surprised by nature while traveling a scenic drive? I would love to hear about your experience! Kindly provide a summary in the comments below so that I can hear about your adventure! Many thanks for reading about my adventurous drive out West! Wishing you many Happy Travels!

Shell Falls and Canyon is open from 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily, mid-May through mid-September. For more information, visit the website at https://www.wyomingtourism.org/travel-resources/detail/Shell-Falls-Wayside-Bighorn-National-Forest/7957.

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Shells Canyon

The Moon Appearing over Bighorn Canyon Scenic Byway

More of Shell’s Canyon

Beautiful geological features at dusk

Exiting the Bighorn Canyon Scenic Byway

Rock formation from the sideview mirror