A Tour of San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro

21 May 201821 September 2024

San Juan’s Castillo de San Felipe del Morro is the iconic representation of a city rich with history and architecture. The fort, also known as El Morro, has lasted over 400 years, protecting the southwestern side of the island from invaders and pirates. But what was the reason that a fort was built here in the first place? It was strategically located between the continent of Europe and the New World where ships could seek shelter, water and supplies and it was determined, that occupation of this land would give wealth to the country that controlled this entrance into the Caribbean Sea.

It was in 1493 when Christopher Columbus came to the island and first claimed it for Spain. Puerto Rico would later fall to the British and Dutch, but only for very short periods of time. During the Dutch attack in 1623, hundreds of Dutch and Spanish soldiers gave their lives. It wasn’t until the 1800’s that Spain would cede ownership of the island to the United States of America, ending the Spanish-American War.

As I walked through the Greek-style entrance into the fort, I noticed the thick walls that gave an extra depth to the fortification of the city. It would take Spain over 250 years to build El Morro. The structure that stands today is similar to the how the fort would have looked in 1790.

I was so interested in the structure of the fort that I hardly noticed the large iguanas on the interior lawn of El Morro. I also noticed them climbing up the fortress wall and stopped a few times to take a closer look because they were camouflaged so well.

As I crossed the bridge into El Morro, I entered Level 5 of the six levels of the fort. Looking up from this level there were three flags representing the Spanish Army, Puerto Rico and the United States of America.

The cannons were a reminder of the importance of this fort in times when it was occupied to defend the island. Many of them used bronze 8-pound cannonballs that took eight to ten artillerymen to operate them. Their strategy was to fire the cannons every thirty seconds, reaching targets a mile away.

The kitchen was a very important part of the lives of the soldiers. Meals were prepared here using ingredients such as fish and cured meat that came from Spain. When the meat arrived, it was inedible so the soldiers soaked it with vegetables and spices creating a type of stew. It is said that this is the origin of sancocho, a stew that remains popular both in Puerto Rico as well as other Spanish-speaking countries.

After visiting many of the rooms, including the powder room, on the fifth floor, I took the ramp up to the sixth floor to see the area known as the “Land Defense”.

From the level six of the fort, it was easy to see why this floor would be considered a strong area of defense. With the evidence of cannons stationed here, there was little space between each one, guaranteed to hit their targets coming in from the sea.

It wasn’t until 1846 that the first of four lighthouses (two would be rebuilt) at El Morro were erected to provide safe passage for ships into and out of the harbor of San Juan. Prior to the restoration of the lighthouse that currently stands on El Morro, the previous house was made out of red brick and was in desperate need of repair.

I couldn’t help but notice the spectacular view from Level 6 of El Morro and imagined an invasion of ships heading toward us in the distance.

Next, I took the stairs down to the lower level. At this point, I was heading toward the Cannon Water Battery. It was here where I found the remaining cannons on display and the embrasures from which the cannons were fired.

There was a medieval watch tower in the center of the battery. Known as the Torre Antigua, some believe it may be haunted.

Looking over the wall, I could see another fort out into the horizon at the end of Isla de Cabras (Goat Island). This is El Morro’s sister fort, San Juan de la Cruz, translated as St. John of the Cross. It was strategically placed here to create crossfire in the event that ships would try to slip past El Morro on the far side of the channel. This small fort is also referred to as El Canuelo.

From this vantage point, I clearly understood the importance of this area in defense of the island and how important it was for protecting San Juan.

The view from the top of the fort emphasized the complicated structure of El Morro. The worn away, weathered stone and its height gave it the sense of strength and might. The thickness of the walls provided a sense of wonder and impenetrability.

I came across a structure that seemed more updated and out of place. I learned that this was once an Observation Post which was used during WWII. After the Second War, El Morro would no longer act as a military base.

Continuing my climb up the fort, I noticed where the cannons would have been placed and the circular patterns that they created when moved to the left or right to hit their target out in the ocean.

El Morro is unlike any fortress I have seen throughout the United States. It was built and designed to protect the city and remains an iconic figure to San Juan. There have been several forts along the American coasts, but this is one of the most fascinating and well preserved.

Have you had the opportunity to visit El Morro? What are your thoughts about this expansive structure? I would love to hear what you liked most about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about our exploration of El Morro and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro
501 Norzagaray Street
San Juan, PR 00901
Telephone: 787 729 6754

Admission Fee: $7 which includes the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal and 24 hours are provided to visit both forts
Hours: Open daily from 9AM to 6PM. Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Amenities: Gift shop and restrooms
Scenic Views: Gorgeous views from the fort include the harbor and the cemetery as well as the shoreline.
Length of Visit: 2 – 3 hours
Tips for Your Visit: There are several iguanas and feral cats that roam the premises. Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and bring plenty of water. (Carts outside sell water).

Where to Stay:

Hotel Plaza de Armas Old San Juan
202 Calle San Jose
San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901
Telephone: 787 722 9191

Amenities: Non-smoking, free continental breakfast, WiFi, refrigerator and microwave; there is a free trolley nearby at Stop #8

Where to Eat:

Cafe El Punto
105 Calle Fortaleza
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901
Telephone: 787 725 1306

I can’t resist ordering the local dish, mofongo where the main ingredient is fried plantains most likely served with a healthy helping of meat such as chicken, beef or seafood.

What to Eat:

MOFONGO! This is absolutely my favorite dish in San Juan. Mashed fried plantains are smothered with meat and/or vegetables.
Alcappurias are similar to fritters filled with crab, meat or lobster and dipped in a batter made from green bananas.
Arepas de Coco is a bread made from coconut flour stuffed with meat, seafood or vegetables.
Chicharrones de Pollo are usually served as a side dish to mofongo, these tasty pieces of chicken are seasoned with garlic, oregano and achiote.
Chilo Frito is a fried red snapper served with fried plantains or french fries on the side.
Lechon is a suckling pig cooked whole and prepared juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside.
Pastelon: San Juan’s answer to lasagna made with plantains instead of pasta
The Pina Colada was invented at Barrachina in Old San Juan.

Where to Drink:

Marilyn’s Place
100 Calle San Francisco
San Juan, Puerto Rico, 00901

What to Read:

The Rum Diary by Hunter S. Thompson
The House on the Lagoon by Rosario Ferre
Simone by Eduardo Lalo
Mundo Cruel by Luis Negron
La Llamarada by Enrique Laguerre
Song of the Simple Truth by Julia de Burgos

Photo Guide for San Juan, Puerto Rico

La Perla in Old San Juan for its colorful umbrellas
The cobblestone streets and colorful buildings of Old San Juan
The Forts in Old San Juan

A sentry (lookout) at El Morro

Belltower at El Morro

The Restored Lighthouse at El Morro

The Layout of El Morro which resembles a bull

Stairs and ramps at El Morro

Beautiful View from El Morro

The Chapel at the Fort

Flags at the Fort

Seaside views from El Morro Fort

Ocracoke Village and Harbor, North Carolina

28 May 201716 September 2024

The 45-minute ferry ride from Hatteras is half the fun of visiting Ocracoke Island. Our family’s annual summer vacations included a day trip to the island for fresh seafood and a visit to see the Ocracoke ponies. Located on the southernmost edge of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore, Ocracoke has consistently been voted one of the Best Beaches in the country.

Ocracoke Village is a hub of action with its charming boutiques and waterfront restaurants. Measuring 9.5 square miles, it is the perfect getaway from the mainland to enjoy the town’s laid-back atmosphere and island attitude.

One of my favorite activities on Ocracoke Island is to visit the Blackbeard Museum at Teach’s Hole. The kids loved reading about the island’s pirate history and learned more about the life of Edward Teach, better known as Blackbeard. They were fascinated by the larger-than-life-sized Blackbeard wearing his pirate’s regalia and the replica of his ship, Queen Anne’s Revenge.

Blackbeard was known for terrorizing the Atlantic seas and the mention of his name would terrorize even the burliest of seamen. Standing nearly seven feet tall, his bushy beard was the deep dark color of night and it was said that he looked like the devil himself. Sinking and capturing ships along the coast, he made Ocracoke Island his home base, building a two-story house known as “Blackbeard’s Castle.” Present day maps still identify Teach’s Hole, which is where Blackbeard met his demise on November 22, 1718. Stabbed twenty-two times and shot five, Lt. Maynard ordered his decapitation and his body tied to Maynard’s ship, ending the Golden Age of Piracy.

Several 18^th century residences along the village date back to the time of Blackbeard. The British Cemetery was established when British ships were sunk by German submarines along the shores of the island during World War II.

In 1998, Fort Ocracoke was discovered about two miles from Ocracoke Village. Previously constructed as a Confederate fortification for the War of 1812, the octagon-shaped structure was built on Beacon Island in Ocracoke Inlet. Destroyed by the hurricanes of 1933, the fort has submerged into the Ocracoke inlet, although a memorial marks it location.

Quite a few outdoor activities include kiteboarding at Kite Point Beach, fishing at the various inlets and hiking the nature trail at Springer’s Point, a favorite hideout for Blackbeard. We enjoyed finishing our active day at Ocracoke Harbor to gaze out on the fishing boats, sail boats and ferry transports running back and forth to the mainland. Before sunset, we found a seat at a local restaurant to watch the sun disappear into the horizon before taking the ferry back to the mainland.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Ocracoke Island? What was your favorite activity? I would love to hear from you if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below. Many thanks for reading about my day visit to Ocracoke Island in the Outer Banks and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

Blackbeard’s Exhibit at Teach’s Hole
935 Irvin Garrish Highway
PO Box 1718
Ocracoke, NC 27960
Telephone: 252 928 1718

Admission Fee: Adults: $4 and Children, ages 7 to 12: $3 Children under seven are free with an adult and senior rates, 64 and over, are $3.
Hours: Open Wednesday through Saturday 1:00 PM – 4:30 PM.
Amenities: Gift shop and exhibits
Length of Visit: 1 hour
Tips for Your Visit: The museum is only open in the afternoon. Small children may be fearful of the Blackbeard figure.

Where to Stay:

The Castle B&B
155 Silver Lake Drive
Ocracoke, NC 27960
Telephone: 252 928 3505

Where to Eat:

SmacNally’s Bar & Grill
180 Irvin Garrish Hwy
Ocracoke, NC 27960
Telephone: 252 928 9999

One of my favorite pastimes in the Outer Banks is to order peel ‘n eat shrimp. I ordered a half a pound and some fried okra. I was in southern cuisine heaven.

What to Eat:

Seafood along Irvin Garrish Highway for large shrimp in July when they are in season. You can purchase them either plain or seasoned. Check out Ocracoke Seafood Company at 416 Irvin Garrish Highway.

What to Read:

Blackbeard the Pirate: A Reappraisal of His Life and Times, by Robert Earl Lee

Photo Guide for Ocracoke Island

The Outer Banks Scenic Highway that runs along the island for photos of the wild mustangs
Ocracoke Harbor
Ocracoke Island Lighthouse

Operation Finale: The Capture and Trial of Adolf Eichmann

6 October 201616 September 2024

“Operation Finale: The Capture and Trial of Adolf Eichmann”, was listed as an exhibit at the Maltz Museum of Jewish Heritage. I had heard of Adolf Eichmann while attending an exhibit at the National Underground Freedom Railroad Center and recently checked out the book by Hannah Arendt, “Eichmann in Jerusalem: A Report on the Banality of Evil”.

I have to admit the exhibit piqued my curiosity. Arendt wrote about the criminal trial of Adolf Eichmann which brought about controversy throughout Europe and the United States. Her book was based on these writings and the transcripts from the trial held in Israel. For the victims, it was an opportunity to tell their story, which was so full of atrocities against the Jewish race, that it was obvious, Adolf Eichmann was a monster. It seemed unbelievable that such a man as Eichmann could elude capture and prosecution for such a long time, I wanted to know the story of his arrest. I wanted to see justice for the Jews.

In preparation for the tour, the guide asked us to pack ourselves into the small area located at the entrance. Our conductor asked us to imagine standing in this space, packed with family, friends and strangers. He then asked if we would be able to stand here for days without food and water and only a bucket to relieve ourselves as a makeshift toilet. We realized that we were standing in a space with the exact dimensions of the railroad cars that were used for transportation to the concentration camps.

A placard posted at this exhibit read, “The Nazis and their collaborators murdered approximately six million Jews across the length of Europe and into North Africa. In some countries, as many as 90 percent of pre-war Jewish populations were eliminated. Communities and cultures that had existed for millennia were obliterated as men, women and children were hunted down like prey, herded into ghettos and enslaved in labor camps and slaughtered in extermination camps. WWII was the most lethal military conflict in human history. Six million of the dead were civilians whose only crime was their Jewish identity.”

Our guide provided us with background information about Adolf Eichmann and his life before joining the SS (Schutzstaffel), a major paramilitary organization under Adolf Hitler. Born in 1906, Eichmann grew up around Jews, had a Jewish best friend and once worked for a Jewish family. He later took a position with an American oil company where he learned about transportation.

Eichmann joined the Nazi party in 1932 and having claimed to be an expert in Jewish relations, was provided a position where he would command the deportation of Jews. On display at the museum were documents of Eichmann’s Nazi Party Assignment. The Iron Cross Award was presented to him for the exile of more than 400,000 Hungarian Jews to Auschwitz.

A 1942 German meeting held in Wannsee would be a major turning point in the war. The Nazis came together to determine a “solution to the Jewish question”, which would result in mass genocide. Over the next three years Eichmann was responsible for accelerating this order, killing Jews at an overwhelming pace.

At the time the Germans were defeated in 1945, Eichmann was captured by the Americans and was incarcerated under the alias, Otto Eckmann. He escaped and remained in hiding in Europe until he was able to reach the country of Argentina. Under the assumed name of Ricardo Klement, Eichmann reached South America where many Nazi War Criminals had fled to elude capture.

Israel’s Secret Service, the Mossad, were intent on finding the Nazi War Criminals in hiding. A tip from German immigrant, Lothar Hermann provided one of these leads. Hermann, a Dachau holocaust survivor, became suspicious of a young man that his daughter was dating. The lad, Nick Eichmann bragged about his father’s Nazi affiliation. Hermann contacted Dr. Fritz Bauer the prosecutor-general of the West German state of Hesse with the information. Operatives could not imagine that Eichmann was residing in the poor living conditions on Gribaldi Street in Buenos Aires and no further action was taken. It would take four more years until Eichmann’s arrest.

A dedicated team of members of the Moussad, El Al and the Israeli police were known as the Grab Team. They assisted in the final capture of Adolf Eichmann which took place in 1960.

The Team learned that Eichmann had a job with Mercedes Benz in Argentina. It seemed most likely because he spoke German. Each night, his schedule proceeded like clock work. His agenda was so precise that it was determined that they would arrest him when he arrived at home around 7:30PM.

On May 11, 1960, the day had come for the Team to apprehend Eichmann. In preparation for the take down, they wore gloves in the event Eichmann would take poison or spit on them. They were also concerned that he may try to commit suicide with a gun, should he become aware of his arrest. It was imperative that they capture him alive so that they could bring him to trial in Israel.

When it was his scheduled time to disembark the train, Eichmann was nowhere to be found. The Grab Team was ready to abandon their operations but waited for the next train scheduled to arrive at 8:10PM. Once the Team noticed Eichmann leaving the train, he was detained. According to the Grab Team, they were able to confirm his identity with photographs. In the end, it was his earlobes that gave him away.

Upon capture, the Team asked Eichmann to give them his name. He immediately gave up his SS number and they completed their identification by confirming his scars.

Over the next nine days, the Grab Team would hold Eichmann in a number of safe houses, waiting to deport him to Israel. Ironically, El Al Airlines had just begun flight service from Buenos Aires to Israel. Eichmann was dressed up as a flight attendant, wore a set of goggles and was drugged during transport.

The Team had also been conducting surveillance on another Nazi War Criminal, Dr. Mengele. Some of the Team remained in Buenos Aires in hopes of capturing him but soon learned that the doctor was on vacation. Dr. Mengele was never caught.

It would take less than a year for Adolf Eichmann’s trial to begin on April 11, 1961. Eichmann’s defense was that he was not a policy maker and therefore, was not responsible for the death of the Jews directly. He stated that he was only following orders.

Prior testimony at the Nuremburg Trials in 1945, detailed the activities for which Eichmann was responsible during the Holocaust. It was Eichmann who suggested the use of Zyklon-B poisonous gas to exterminate the Jews in the gas chambers. He was also in charge of the inhumane transportation of Jews from their home to “work camps”. It was determined that ten to fifty percent of Jews would die in the railroad cars due to the appalling conditions. Within three days of the transfer of Jews to concentration camps, many would not survive due to lack of water and deficient waste disposal. Internal Nazi documents showed that Eichmann carried out the command to increase the killing of Jews when the Nazis realized that they were being defeated.

The most emotional stage of the tour was watching the movie screen showing aspects of the trial on three monitors. To the far left, cameras focused on the reaction of the audience while in the center, Eichmann, guarded by two Israeli officers, responds to questions from the panel. The most moving visual was the testimony of nearly one hundred victims displayed on the far right partition, testifying against him. It is a graphic trial lasting 3 days and heart wrenching as Eichmann sits emotionless. In the end, justice prevailed and Eichmann was found guilty. He was hanged on May 31, 1962.

I felt a sense of satisfaction knowing that Adolph Eichmann had been punished for his cruel and brutal treatment of Jews during the Holocaust. It will never be enough justice for the victims who lost their lives or the survivors that continue their lives reliving this nightmare. We must never forget them. We have a responsibility to keep their story alive.

Did you have the opportunity to visit the Adolf Eichmann exhibit? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a comment in the section below! Many Thanks for reading about my visit to the Maltz Museum and the Adolph Eichmann exhibit. Wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do:

The Maltz Museum of Jewish Heritage
2929 Richmond Road
Beachwood, OH 44122
Telephone: 216 593 0575

Admission Fee: $12 for Adults, $10 for Seniors (60+) and Students (12+) and $5 for Youth, ages 5 – 11; Maltz Museum members and children under 5 are FREE. Contact the museum’s website for holiday closures.
Hours: Open Thursday – Sunday from 11AM to 5PM; Closed Monday and Open on Wednesday from 11AM to 9PM.
Length of Visit: 1 to 2 hours, or additional time for special exhibits
Tips for Your Visit: Ensure that you have visited the website to confirm that the museum is open, as it may be closed for a list of holidays.

Where to Stay:

Aloft Beachwood
1010 Eaton Boulevard
Beachwood, OH 44122
Telephone: 215 595 0900

Where to Eat:

Moxie, the Restaurant – permanently closed in 2019
3355 Richmond Road
Beachwood, OH 44122
Telephone: 216 831 5599

Since oysters were in season, I placed an order for a half dozen, flavored with hot sauce, parsley and lemon. For my main entree I ordered the Bronzini with a tabbouleh salad, chilled cucumber & dill broth, watermelon radish, mint oil. The combination of unique foods was absolutely amazing and I had so much food left over for a least a couple of meals.

John Mariani from Esquire Magazine raves about Moxie, “The hot new Moxie has picked up on the style of restaurants in downtown New York with a little New Orleans thrown in. Portions are gargantuan.”

What to Read:

Eichmann Before Jerusalem by Bettina Stangneth
The House on Garibaldi Street by Isser Harel
Hunting Eichmann: How a Band of Survivors and a Young Spy Agency Chased Down the World’s Most Notorious Nazi by Neal Bascomb

Photo Guide for Cleveland:

Abbey Road Skyline
Brewnuts is not only a lovely donut shop, but its nostalgic art deco interior is perfect for unique photos
A Christmas Story House in nearby Tremont
Civic Center District to photograph Cleveland’s City Hall, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and FirstEnergy Football Field
The Cleveland Arcade is one of the most photographed location in Cleveland so arrive early (8 or 9) before the crowds arrive.
Cleveland MetroParks Zoo
Cleveland Murals in Ohio City (close by)
Cleveland’s Museum of Art for its phenomenal architecture and exhibits
Cleveland Public Library
Cleveland Signs
Coastal Taco has some of the best views of the river in the city of Cleveland.
The Cuyahoga Valley National Park in Brecksville is for nature lovers.
The Flying Fig is a yummy cafe where outdoor photos are a must.
East Fourth Street is where you will find cozy cafes lining brick walkways
The Fountain of Eternal Life honors local residents who served in the military (photograph during the day AND night)
Great Lakes Brewing Company
Heinen’s Grocery Store to photograph the rotunda overlooking the food court and check out the terrace for additional photos
Holden Arboretum in nearby Kirtland
Lakeview Cemetery
Hope Memorial Bridge is the best place for photographing a cityscape photo of Cleveland
Located at Playhouse Square, Yours Truly is a chic cafe with exposed brick and stylish furniture and the infamous GE Chandelier
Pour Cleveland is a lovely coffee shop with an artsy interior.
Q Arena is home of the Cleveland Cavaliers
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame for its spectacular architecture and historical exhibits
Settler’s Landing Park is perfect for photographing several iconic locations in Cleveland.
Superior Viaduct Bridge
West Side Market is absolutely amazing for shooting food photos at each of the stalls, but a trip up to the second level by way of the corner staircase will provide a photo-worthy shot of the market from above.

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