A 1997 Tour of Savannah

I had just moved from Jacksonville, Florida to Raleigh, North Carolina and was missing my friend Ann.  We decided to meet somewhere in-between that would be convenient for both of us and agreed that Savannah, Georgia would be a perfect location.  Neither of us had ever been to this gorgeous southern gem, so we were excited to check out its fantastic architecture and southern-fried restaurants.  In preparation for our trip, I couldn’t resist reading Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt.  Based in the historic district of Savannah, this novel is full of scandal and outrageous characters.

The salacious story documents the true story of Jim Williams’ love affair with a local male prostitute whom he had allegedly killed at his home, Mercer House.  Danny Hansford, much younger than the antique dealer, was said to have frequented Williams’ mansion as rumors spread around town about their relationship.  Williams claimed to have shot Danny in self defense and after four trials between 1981 – 1989, he was acquitted.  Williams was instrumental in the restoration of many homes in Savannah which are referenced in Berendt’s novel, or as locals call it, “The Book,” so I knew I had to read it.

On the book’s cover is a photo of the Bird Girl statue from Savannah’s now-famous Bonaventure Cemetery.  Located along the Wilmington River, it is the resting place for many of the city’s most distinguished residents and considered one of the spookiest places in town.  The Mercer family, who owned the Mercer Williams house, has a family plot within the cemetery where singer Johnny Mercer is buried.

While the Bird Girl statue has been moved from the cemetery and relocated to Savannah’s Telfair Museums, the bench mentioned in the book as the location where “a Savannah grand dame and her guest drank martinis” remains in front of Conrad Aiken’s grave.

Located on Monterey Square is the infamous Mercer Williams House, mentioned in the John Berendt novel, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.  Once the residence of antique restorer Jim Williams, the historical home is now owned by Williams’ sister and is open to the public as a museum.

Tours of the Mercer Williams House boast of Jim Williams’ love of Savannah.  He is noted for preserving over 50 homes.  Shortly after restoring the Mercer Williams house, Jim moved to Savannah continuing his business in the carriage house on-site.  Williams was famous for hosting exuberant events at his home that included an interesting guest list of vivacious and shady characters, but it was the shooting of his lover Danny Hansford in 1981, that would bring him national fame.

Williams was eventually acquitted of murder after four jury trials.  Having returned back to Mercer-Williams house, Jim was found dead by his employee six months later in the study near the spot where Hansford was shot.  Williams had died from pneumonia and heart failure.

The Mercer-Williams house has a reputation for being haunted as Williams and Hansford were not the only two deaths which had occurred on the property.  In 1969, an eleven-year old boy, Tommy Downs tragically fell from the abandoned house landing on the wrought-iron fence.  Visitors today claim to have seen paranormal activity to include visions of Williams, Hansford and little Tommy Downs roaming the home.  Ghostly images have been captured in photographs of the Mercer-Williams home of a little boy with blond hair and have been shared quite frequently on the internet.  In addition to the sightings, voices and footsteps, reports of parties at the house have contributed to its reputation of being haunted.

While Jim Williams was one of the main characters of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, one of my favorite leading ladies, was Lady Chablis, a transsexual performer at Club One.  With her eccentric, flamboyant personality, she was certainly a star in the movie adaptation directed by Clint Eastwood. Her part in the movie brought hundreds of guests to the club during the nights of her performances until her death in 2016.

My final film location to visit was the Bonaventure Cemetery located at 330 Bonaventure Road.  While the Bird Girl statue no longer stands within the park, I enjoyed exploring the grave sites of local  celebrities such as Conrad Aiken (writer), Johnny Mercer (singer/songwriter) and former Governor Edward Telfair.  While the cemetery plays a supporting role in the movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, you won’t find Jim Williams nor Danny Hansford buried here, but you may spot a ghost or two.

Have you had the opportunity to visit the charming town of Savannah? I would love to hear about your experience if you would kindly leave a message in the comments section below.  Many thanks for reading about my day trip to Savannah and wishing you many Happy Travels!

What to See and What to Do: 

Bonaventure Cemetery
330 Bonaventure Road
Savannah, GA  31404

  • Admission Fee:  There is no charge to visit the cemetery
  • Hours:  Open daily from dawn to dusk
  • Length of Visit:  1 hour to browse the grave sites

Telfair Museums
207 W. York Street
Savannah, GA  31404
Telephone:  912 790 8800

  • Admission Fee: $20 for Adults, $18 for Seniors (65+) and $15 for Students (13-25, with student ID) and $5 for Children ages 6 – 12;  Museum members and children under 5 are FREE.
  • Hours:  Open Sunday and Monday from Noon to 5PM; Tuesday – Saturday from 10AM to 5PM.  Contact the museum’s website for holiday closures.
  • Length of Visit:  1 to 2 hours, or additional time for special exhibits
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Ensure that you have visited the website to confirm that the museum is open, as it may be closed for holidays or special events.

Mercer-Williams House Museum
429 Bull Street
Savannah, GA  31401
Telephone: 912 236 6352

  • Admission Fee: $12.50 for Adults, $8 for Students
  • Hours:  Open Thursday – Sunday from 11AM to 5PM; Closed Monday and Open on Wednesday from 11AM to 9PM.
  • Length of Visit:  1 to 2 hours, or additional time for special exhibits
  • Amenities:  guided tour and gift shop
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Ensure that you have visited the website to confirm that the museum is open, as it may be closed certain holidays.

Club One
1 Jefferson Street
Savannah. GA  31401
Telephone:  912 232 0200

  • Admission Fee: $10 for Adults for the weekend shows.
  • Hours:  Open Monday beginning at 5:30; Tuesday – Sunday from 5PM;
  • Length of Visit:  varies, depending on your experience
  • Tips for Your Visit:  Visit the website for special events such as bingo, topless karaoke, happy hour, drag shows and dance floor access.

Where to Stay: 

East Bay Inn
225 East Bay Street
Savannah, GA  31401
Telephone:  912 238 1225

Where to Eat: 

Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room
107 West Jones Street
Savannah, GA  31401
Telephone:  912 232 5997

Check out this historical restaurant’s menu with dishes to include fried chicken, black-eyed peas, cornbread dressing, okra gumbo and sweet potato souffle.

What to Eat:

  • Boiled Peanuts at roadside stands throughout Georgia
  • Chatham Artillery Punch is a cocktail made of champagne, brandy, rum and bourbon at Fiddler’s Seafood
  • Fried Green Tomatoes at Tubby’s Seafood
  • Peaches at roadside stands throughout Georgia
  • Pralines at River Street Sweets or Savannah Candy Kitchen
  • Shrimp and Grits at Tubby’s Seafood

What to Read:

  • Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, by John Berendt
  • Savannah Blues by Mary Kay Andrews
  • Savannah from Savannah by Denise Hildreth

Photo Guide for Savannah:  

  • Collins Quarter is a coffee bar on Bull Street
  • Forsyth Park and its famous fountain are a must-see in Savannah’s historic district
  • Historic District with its cobblestone streets is a great place for a stroll among the city’s most memorable mansions.
  • Leopold’s Ice Cream has been serving up delicious flavors since 1919 and is located on Broughton Street
  • The Paris Market located on Broughton Street offers coffees, sweets and Parisian pastries
  • Perry Lane Hotel‘s rooftop bar offers sweeping views of the city.
  • Rainbow Row is a collection of pastel row houses on Bryan Street
  • River Street‘s cobblestone streets lead to the Savannah River for beautiful views of the Savannah Belle ferries

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